LTR Training Tip #12: Imprinting and How it Works
Imprinting is an important part of your equine’s life–and not just for foals. Meredith discusses how to approach imprinting with an equine of any age.
Imprinting is an important part of your equine’s life–and not just for foals. Meredith discusses how to approach imprinting with an equine of any age.
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The Ins and Outs of Leg Supports –
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Interview is live from Lucky Three Ranch History between Cindy and Meredith, covering:
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Mule Talk is an Every Cowgirl’s Dream production – www.EveryCowgirlsDream.Com www.MuleTalk.Net or www.LuckyThreeRanch.Com/Podcast-Appearances/
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(Page 30) Although the “Elbow Pull” is a very simple and straight forward device to help keep you equine in good posture, it is also a device that needs to be custom made to fit each individual equine. Equines that are approximately the same size in the front quarters will probably be able to use the same one. First, you need to obtain a package of 3/8″ twisted nylon rope. It is generally sold on the internet in 50′ spools, but is fairly inexpensive. Do not substitute any other kind of rope or leather reins, etc. as this will have a different weight and slippage around the bridle and will not have the same effect. Make sure that when you use the “Elbow Pull” that you place it OVER the crown piece on your bridle to prevent chafing and that you adjust it by first getting them to flex at the poll (by cupping your hand at the muzzle and rocking it forward and back or just offer some oats to get him to flex) and then push UP on his muzzle until he begins to push the nose out and hollow his back. This is not a device to “tie” their heads down. It should be adjusted just tight enough to prevent them from hollowing their neck and back, but still giving them full range of motion in every other direction (Up, down and to the sides).
You will also need two snaps that are narrow, yet fairly strong that can fit easily through the rings on your surcingle, or Western saddle. English saddle D-rings are generally too small and in this situation, we do not attach to them, but rather attach the “Elbow Pull” to itself after looping it through tied up stirrups. If you make the rope a bit longer for adjustment sake, you can loop it over the withers and attach it to the small D-rings on the opposite sides. The reason for twisted rope is so you can actually go through the D-rings and snap it into the twisted rope itself for a more exact setting. You would just untwist the rope at the setting point and snap into the middle of the rope so it won’t slide. With horses, you would just twist the rope over the back as shown so the snaps are a moot point until the horse learns to give to the “Elbow Pull” and can be hard tied.
Have the equine stand at the hitch rail with the snaffle bridle on. To get a measurement for how long a piece of rope you will need for his “Elbow Pull,” take a length of rope from the coil. From the near side (left side of your equine), feed the end of the rope from the inside to the outside of the snaffle bit ring, drape it over the poll of your equine and feed it from the outside of the snaffle bit ring to the inside on the off side (right) of your equine. Pull enough slack to go down through the front legs, behind the forearm, up and over the back such that it hangs 12 inches (or a bit more, but not less) over the spine. Then, go back to the near side on where you started and pull enough rope from the spool do the same thing on that side. When you have enough rope to loop over the spine on that side, you can cut the rope at 12 inches (or a bit more, but not less).
Once you have the proper length of rope for your equine, you will need to unravel 3″-4″ of one end of the rope and loop it through the ring on your first snap. Then you will braid the rope back into itself. First, pick the loose strand that is on top as you lay the rope across your hand, bend it around the end of the snap and feed it under a twist of the rope such that it creates a loop around the end of you snap and pull it snug. Then take the next loose strand (which would be the middle of the three strands) and feed it under the next twist down from the one you just did. Then do the same with the third loose strand under the third twist in the rope. Take all three strands in your hand, hold the rope so it doesn’t twist and pull all three strands snug. They should all line up. Next, turn the rope over so you can see where the angled lines of the twisted rope begins again and feed the first strand under the first twist, the second under the second twist and the third under the third twist. Pull all three strands snug at the same time, turn the rope over, locate the first twist in the line and repeat until you have all 3″-4″ braided into the twisted rope. You will have some loose ends sticking out and nylon rope can slip, so you now need to take a lighter and burn all these ends until they are melted together and will not slip. Be sure that you burn them so they are smooth and without bumps or it will be difficult to feed the ends through the D-rings. Do the same with your second snap on the other end of the rope. Now, you have your own custom made “Elbow Pull!” If this is confusing, you can purchase our EQUUS REVISITED DVD which has a SPECIAL FEATURE that will show you how to do this at www.luckythreeranchstore.com
By Meredith Hodges
“Throughout history, mules and donkeys have been pegged as being stubborn and therefore stupid, but I have found just the opposite to be true. They are intelligent, sensitive animals, and they have a particularly strong survival instinct. They’ll go to great lengths to avoid danger or what they perceive as danger, and the process of training a mule or donkey is the process of earning their trust.”
—Meredith Hodges, internationally recognized mule and donkey training expert
When I began working with mules and donkeys, I quickly realized there would be no shortcuts to successful training. I steered clear of fads, trends and shortcuts and, instead, based my training program on Behavior Modification techniques developed by world-famous behaviorist B.F. Skinner over a century ago. For many years now, I have used these techniques to successfully train my own champion mules and donkeys, and I continue to share my method with millions of people through my books, an award-winning DVD series, multiple television shows, my comprehensive website and on Social Media.
The techniques presented here work well with not only mules and donkeys, but also with horses and any other trainable animals (and even humans). The program is designed to be resistance free, and the goal is—and always has been—to help people get the best performance and most enjoyment from their animals and to insure that the animal receives the best treatment possible.
Behavior Modification Basics
As a young adult I worked as a psychiatric technician at Sonoma and Napa State Hospitals in California, and the Behavior Modification techniques I learned at that time proved ideal for my later equine training purposes for two major reasons:
˚The system in which the trainer sets performance goals and rewards positive behavior leading to achievement of those goals encourages “good” behavior instead of using fear-inducing punishment to suppress “bad” behavior.
˚The step-by-step approach that builds gradually on learned skills gives the animal a sense of security and achievement that encourages trust and helps minimize resistance.
Animals, like humans, need a predictable routine in order to learn. Just as children progress through grade school, building on their knowledge with each successive grade, animals learn best when a solid foundation is laid for each new skill. By creating a logical program from the outset, we avoid the confusion that can lead to resistance.
These levels of achievement are at the heart of Behavior Modification as a training tool. Acceptable levels of behavior must be defined at each level of training, beginning with the simplest of expectations and working forward. At each level the animal must accomplish certain tasks, and each accomplishment must be acknowledged and reinforced. Also note that it is critical—especially if you are working with a mule or donkey—that you, the owner, participate in the training process. Mules and donkeys develop a strong bond with their trainer, and if they’ve learned from someone else, their performance for you may suffer in the long run. It is also advisable to consult with an experienced trainer in your area, and if you are working with my Training Mules and Donkeys training series, I am just a phone call away.
Reinforcing Behaviors
Everything we do, every behavior we choose, is based on an instinctual desire to experience pleasure and avoid pain. Our choices reflect our experience. They are “reinforced” by the pain or pleasure they have given us in the past. Behavior Modification uses the same principles of positive and negative reinforcement with an emphasis on positive reinforcement.
In training, positive reinforcements delivered in the form of rewards. We know that an equine, when rewarded for performing a certain task, will be willing to perform it again in anticipation of another reward. Note, however, that positive reinforcement is not bribery. The reward is not given as an inducement to perform the task, but as a reward for a task completed. The reward should be something the animal loves and will consistently work for, yet something that is nutritionally sound. In the case of equines, rolled or crimped oats work far better than rich snacks full of empty calories and are healthier for your equine.
Positive reinforcement also takes the form of verbal cues. When your animal performs the desired behavior, you should, simultaneously and with appropriate enthusiasm, say the word, “Good!” This works well when it isn’t possible to give a food reward right away. Clicker training, which has become a popular and effective means of audible reinforcement, is similar and applies the same concept. It’s immediate, it’s consistent, and it can be used with all mules, donkeys and horses to reinforce behavior. However, I feel that it is better to use your voice than a clicker, as the sound of your voice promotes engagement with your equine on a more intimate level, so your voice will yield better results than clicker training.
Negative reinforcement is used not to punish the animal but to encourage them to make a better choice. Negative reinforcement should be brief, to the point and used sparingly. It should never be of long duration or given arbitrarily. Negative reinforcement, such as a slap or a loud “No!” shouldn’t be used so often that it makes the animal unresponsive altogether. Remember that reinforcement by its very definition always strengthens behavior. Punishment is used to suppress behavior and may trigger other undesirable behaviors. B.F. Skinner himself said that positive reinforcement may take more patience, because the effect is slightly deferred, yet it can be as effective as negative reinforcement and has fewer unwanted residual behaviors. When you begin training, you will have to give a verbal and food reward every time the animal performs a desired response. Still, negative reinforcement is necessary to define boundaries.
As your equine learns certain behaviors, you can reinforce the learned behaviors less frequently and focus on frequently rewarding new achievements. Gradually, your animal will become satisfied with a verbal reinforcement for established behaviors, and he will comply for longer periods between food rewards. This shift from a predictable, or fixed, schedule of reinforcement to a variableschedule helps with skill progression. For example, in the transition from lunging when your animal was initially given a reward after each set of rotations in the round pen, to riding, he can eventually be ridden through his entire 30 to 40 minute session before receiving a reward.
Beware of the “delayed gratification” phenomenon, however. If your animal suspects that it will be too long before he receives a reward, he may be reluctant to even begin. Often a quick reward for a simple task at the beginning of a lesson is incentive enough to get him started. Also keep in mind that reinforcing too soon is ineffective. Your animal should be rewarded immediately after the correct behavior, not before. An animal rewarded too soon or too often can become aggressive and/or resistant to training. Remember, each of your own behaviors elicits a response from your animal. You must be meticulous in the way you ask your animal to perform, and always be aware of your own actions. In Part 2 of Introduction to Behavior Modification, I will explain how to break complex behaviors into small and simple steps to achieve the best results.
To learn more about Meredith Hodges and her comprehensive all-breed equine training program, visit LuckyThreeRanch.com, MEREDITH HODGES PUBLIC FIGURE Facebook page, or call 1-800-816-7566. Check out her children’s website at JasperTheMule.com. Also, find Meredith on Pinterest, Instagram, MeWe, YouTube and Twitter.
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE and EQUUS REVISITED at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.
© 2005, 2011, 2016, 2018, 2024 Lucky Three Ranch, Inc. All Rights Reserved
(Page 29) The “Elbow Pull” is a self-correcting restraint for your equine that I developed to help the equine to maintain good posture in a balanced frame throughout his various lessons. Ordinarily, it is first used in our program after the young equine (2 years and under) graduates from the leading exercises (on the flat ground for postural balance and over obstacles to add coordination to the good posture while moving). If the equine is over two years old, I recommend doing all the leading exercises in the “Elbow Pull.” He will need to alter his unbalanced way of moving right from the beginning. Good posture is not inherent; it must be taught. Doing these leading exercises with this purpose in mind will prepare him to balance his body properly on a circle in the Round Ren. The “Elbow Pull” does not tie his head down and is completely self-corrected by the equine himself. It encourages him to stay erect in his body while bending through his rib cage, but prevents him from being able to hollow his neck and back when in more active motion. It gives him more responsibility for his self-carriage in good equine posture while you stand in the middle of the Round Pen when his head is no longer at your shoulder. It will help to keep him from leaning like a motorcycle on the circle and through turns so that the elements at the core that support the skeleton are developed symmetrically with no compromises. Its purpose is similar to the bar on the wall that a ballet dancer uses until they can sustain their own balance unassisted.
The leading lessons, both on flat ground and through obstacles, will strengthen his core in good equine posture, but the benefit of those exercises could be lost if he does not continue in good posture on the circle in the Round Pen where you are no longer right next to him to correct his posture. The “Elbow Pull” puts pressure on the poll, corners of the lips, behind the forearm and over the back when he begins to fall out of good posture. When the tension on the “Elbow Pull” is correctly adjusted, it will remain loose when he is taking complete responsibility for his own balance. When he raises his head and begins to go out of good posture, it will prevent him from hollowing his neck and back, gives him free range of motion in all other directions and still gives him something to lean against to sustain a reasonably good posture while briefly resting his muscles. Until your equine is strong enough in his core muscles to sustain his own balance consistently, he will move in and out of keeping the “Elbow Pull” loose.
When it is loose, there is no pressure at all. You will know his core is adequately strengthened when it remains loose throughout his entire Round Pen lunging lessons. Then he can graduate to ground driving lessons and his first riding lessons in the Round Pen and later in the open arena. Ride with the “Elbow Pull” when you introduce your added weight. When the “Elbow Pull” remains loose throughout the exercises, it is no longer needed. Your animal will then have a strong core and maintain his good equine posture without it. His habitual way of moving will have been changed and all he will need is turnout to practice his new-found ideal posture on his own. The “Elbow Pull” can be used with leading training exercises during the rehabilitation of older animals that have not had the benefit of this early experience.
Developing balance and strength in good equine posture results in numerous benefits for you and your equine from standing still when mounting to simultaneous flying lead changes and balanced sliding stops. This approach builds confidence in the equine and subdues the flight reflex making for a much safer ride. To enhance your skills, learn more about our comprehensive management and training program under TRAINING on our website at www.luckythreeranch.com.
Leading training on the obstacle course is your equine’s initial exposure to real fear. Meredith explains how to turn that initial fear into a curiosity that will positively guide your equine’s future interactions with the world!
Learn how to lead your equine through forward obstacles in order to instill confidence and turn your equine’s fear into curiosity.
The following is from All About Equine Animal Rescue:


September is here, and with it comes the start of a busy fall season at AAE! From caring for our horses at the ranch to helping at outreach events, and taking on all the behind-the-scenes tasks that keep things moving, our volunteers make so much of what we do possible.
This month, we’re shining the spotlight on a couple more of the incredible people who give their time, energy, and heart to AAE. We’re grateful for everything our volunteers do, and for the difference they make in the lives of the horses and animals in our care.
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(Page 36) The Lucky Three Mules prove that when you are polite, consistent and train your equines all in the same way, group lessons can be productive and fun! How they are led and how they enter the round pen is as important as the workout itself. For initial tune-ups, we do walk, trot, canter, reverse and halt with specific numbers of rotations, 10 in each direction, with a 3-minute halt between sets for relaxed, balanced and effective athletic conditioning….and then at the end, they are all allowed to lie down and roll. Lunging in just their halters gives me the opportunity to see who will need postural support with the “Elbow Pull” during lunging going forward after being off work for a while. When you do postural core strength exercises with your equine, most of the time, simple turnout is all that is necessary to keep him in good condition and it won’t take as long to build the bulk muscle that you need for extensive trail riding and showing. When he has been taught balanced body carriage in good equine posture, it becomes habitual and all he needs to do to reinforce it is to be able to move freely around in turnout.
Then only occasional tune-ups (reminders of good posture) are really necessary. Even when they are led from the round pen, or from any working area, they should remain calm, respectful and obedient, and always exercise the good manners that you have taught them. And remember, the way to obtain good manners from your equine is to exercise good manners yourself when dealing with him (or her). This provides MUTUAL satisfaction and makes training FUN for you all! To learn more about developing your equine’s relaxation, balance, core muscle strength and good posture with impeccable manners, check out our website at www.luckythreeranch.com under TRAINING and in the STORE. There is all kinds of helpful information and fun entertainment to enhance the relationship with your equine!
Having your equine stand still during mounting is the result of a calm and sensible approach to ALL phases of the preliminary groundwork. Going forward with a logical and sequential approach will help the equine to stay calm and prevent any resistance.
Breeding for Quality Mules Part 1 –
Meredith shares her expertise in breeding jacks to horse mares and jennets, selecting the premiere jack for your mule foal, selecting good quality mares for producing excellent mule babies, what to expect, how it all comes together.
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— Building the Hearts & Horses Therapeutic Riding Center
In this episode, learn about:
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