Kyle Davidson
Posts by Kyle Davidson:
A Little Believin’ Goes A Long Way
The following is from All About Equine Animal Rescue:

At AAE, we don’t stop believin’ in second chances, and neither do our volunteers!
That belief is part of what brings people to AAE and what keeps them coming back. This month, we’re getting to know some of our newer, wonderful volunteers, learning a little more about their AAE story, and finding out what makes volunteering here so special to them.
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Meet Toothless: A Sweet Senior Ready for a Second Chance
The following is from All About Equine Animal Rescue:
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See What July Brought to AAE
The following is from All About Equine Animal Rescue:
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It’s Pizza Time!
The following is from All About Equine Animal Rescue:

| Today’s the day!
The AAE Pizza Fundraiser at Viscuso’s Pizza + Draft House ishappening right now, and we’d love to see you there!
If you’ve been looking for the perfect excuse to skip cooking, this is it. Come enjoy a delicious meal while helping support the horses at AAE.
From 11:00 AM – 8:30 PM, dine in or take out. Just mention AAE (or present the flyer below), and 20% of your purchase (excluding alcohol) will be donated to AAE.
Viscuso’s serves some of the best (if not THE best) pizza in town. Their menu also features delicious appetizers, flatbreads, toasted sandwiches, all-you-can-eat dine in salad bar, and desserts, so there’s something for everyone, including gluten-free and keto options.
Every order helps provide food, medical care, and second chances for the horses. That’s a pretty tasty way to make a difference. |
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| At AAE, we like to say “Neigh-ver Skip Pizza!” So round up your friends, family, fellow volunteers, and horse lovers, and spend some time together over a delicious meal, all while making a difference for the horses. |
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| Thank you for your continued support. We can’t wait to see you there! |
THIS Saturday: Eat Great Food & Support The Horses!
The following is from All About Equine Animal Rescue:

| Just a friendly reminder that the AAE Pizza Fundraiser is happening this Saturday at Viscuso’s Pizza + Draft House, and we’d love to see you there!
From 11:00 AM – 8:30 PM, come enjoy a delicious pizza while supporting our horses! Dine in or take out, just be sure to mention AAE (or present the flyer below), and 20% of your purchase (excluding alcohol) will be donated to AAE.
Viscuso’s pizza is some of the best (if not THE best) pizza in town. Their menu also features a variety of tasty appetizers, flat breads, toasted sandwiches, all-you-can-eat dine in salad bar, and desserts. So, there’s something for everyone!
This is also a great time for volunteers to gather and share some quality time away from the rescue. We don’t recognize each other without the ranch clothes, bad hair days, dirt on our faces, ya’ know! So, grab your shift-mates, and make a date of it! |
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| Whether you’re stopping by for lunch, dinner, or just a quick bite, every order helps support the care of our horses. Remember, dine in or take out, both support AAE’s mission.
Tell (or better yet, bring) your family, friends, neighbors, and coworkers. The more, the merrier! |
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| Thank you for your continued support. We can’t wait to see you there! |
Chilly Pepper – FIRE 911 – EMERGENCY HELP NEEDED!
The following is from Chilly Pepper – Miracle Mustang:



FIRE EMERGENCY – WYNEMA NEEDS OUR HELP!
Our beloved friends at Wynema Ranch, Eddie & Shari Floyd suffered horrific , possibly life threatening injuries/burns and are badly in need of our help!
| I was asked by Animal Control to make sure we get them some hay, and they need it now. These people are the most amazing, caring and unselfish people you could ever meet. They have dedicated everything to saving wild horses, and now we need to STEP UP NOW and help them. |
PLEASE pray for Shari and Eddie. They are so badly hurt.
I need to get them a load of hay asap. They lost their beloved dog whom they were trying to rescue. Please donate and be sure to mark “hay for Eddie and Shari”.
Hugs and thank you,
Palomino & All the Critters
You can donate to Goldendale Veterinary – 509-773-0369 You can donate to Zimmerman Vet – 775-623-0981
| Zelle® Wildhorses In Need Palominodancer@yahoo.com 530-339-1458 |
| Venmo – @WIN-dba-ChillyPepper New CashAp – $ChillyPepperMM (Win dba Chilly Pepper) |
Cash AP – $ChillyPepperMM (Win dba Chilly Pepper)
You can go to gofundme<-https://www.
You can go to Paypal – https://www.paypal.com/donate/
| You can donate via check at: Chilly Pepper PO Box 233 Golconda, NV 89414 |
You can also donate via credit card by calling Palomino at 530-339-1458
MULE TALK! PODCAST: Riding Side Saddle (Aside)
- Belle Star rode side saddle!
- How to achieve position and security when riding in a side saddle.
- Learn the three types of side saddles and what they offer.
- Learn the proper attire when riding aside.
- Men do ride Side Saddle!
- Shows/classes that offer side saddle.
- Proper bits to use when showing in side saddle.
- Care and reconditioning of side saddles.
- There are Side Saddle organizations!
Or follow along. Read the transcript.
Learn more on Mule Talk podcast.
MULE CROSSING: Riding Side Saddle (Aside)
By Meredith Hodges
INTRODUCTION
I was born LOVING horses in Minneapolis, Minnesota in 1950. I got a pair of chaps and a “bouncing” horse when I was six years old. My Grandmother was always teaching me about Good Posture and Good Manners. She once wanted to take me on a shopping trip to the local mall and requested that I put on one of my frilly dresses. She told me that all the little girls would be wearing them and I flatly refused! You don’t ride horses in frilly dresses! I was a Tom-Boy all the way through! I didn’t want to be a boy, I just wanted to be READY TO RIDE! So, my Grandmother conceded and let me wear my pants! When we got back, she said, “See, I told you all the pretty little girls would be wearing dresses. Now don’t you wish you had worn yours?” “Nope,” I replied and she just shrugged! I still wore my dresses to church!
We moved to California in 1958 when I finally got my first horse, Duchess! I was still very much a Tom Boy now…cleaning stalls, doing chores on the ranch and riding my horse. In 1961, I even joined 4-H and got 4 Hereford cattle. Now I was a REAL Cowgirl!
In 1962, I finally got some jeans to wear my chaps over, a belt, cowgirl boots, proper Western shirts and a hat! Still, I learned feminine skills like cooking and sewing from my Grandmother, and still wore my dresses on Sunday! I was working on becoming a lady, but most of the time I was being a real Western girl!



In 1973-79, I worked on my mother’s Windy Valley Mule Ranch training 30 weanlings a year to lead. In 1980, I moved to Colorado and started my own Lucky Three Ranch. I spent the next 20 years trying to prove that mules and donkeys could really do anything that horses could do and much more! I rode them in every event that I was allowed to against horses until I won, and then moved on to the next discipline until I won against the horses again.
As we improved our skills, I had seven different mules to school, so I would not just practice one thing over and over. I practiced different disciplines on different days during the week. I never “drilled” on anything, but spent limited time teaching the things I had learned slowly, sequentially and logically. The mules really loved this approach, enjoyed the diversity of the lessons and learned quickly.
Our schedule went something like this: Monday – Thursday were training days from 5 a.m. to 5 p.m. (sometimes later) , Friday was a day of rest for the mules while I packed up my truck and trailer for the weekend show, Friday night, or early Saturday morning, we would load up and leave for the show, and return on Sunday night when the cycle would start over again!
We competed in Gymkhana, English & Western Pleasure, Pleasure Driving & Gambler’s Choice, Drive & Ride, Western Riding, Reining, Trail, Dressage & Combined Training. It made for exceptional skills as I learned and my equines just kept getting better and better.
The crowning glory was not just our success in Dressage & Combined Training, but we had learned together, which made learning Side Saddle a whole lot easier than you might think! We even jumped 2’9” Side Saddle. It was by no means a cinch! When lucky Three Ciji and I won I.S.S.O. Champion in 1992 and then Reserve Champion in 1993, I bought a LIFE MEMBERSHIP to the International Side Saddle Organization and continued to compete. I was wearing dresses, and aprons, and when I rode, I was not prepared for the emotional high I got from finally becoming a real lady…a LADY MULESKINNER!
Today, the concept of elegance has been greatly compromised by the fast pace of our progressive society. Few of us have neither the time nor the inclination to do what is necessary to cultivate this concept as a major part of our lives. Women today have far too many jobs and responsibilities with which to cope without worrying about being elegant,unless she lives in a densely populated urban area. There are just not a lot of places where a woman can practice being elegant. One of the places she can, however, is in the growing number of Side Saddle classes offered at many of the different Breed Shows across the country. The equestrian art of Side Saddle is currently being revitalized among the different breeds and one of the most enthusiastic groups is our own Longears lovers! But, elegance is not necessarily the only reason our Longears Ladies are riding aside. The lady equestrians of today like to get a more well-rounded education in the art of Horsemanship riding astride,and the perfection of their balanced seat when riding aside only enhances their existing abilities.
Mules can be lovely, obedient and secure Side Saddle mounts when they are brought along correctly, as has been exhibited nationally by Crystal Ward and her mule, Final Legacy. I also fondly remember Ann Hathaway and her Dressage mule, Baby Huey, exhibiting Side Saddle in the Bishop Mule Days parade years ago. I judged the A.D.M.S. Nationals in Austin, Minnesota, and again, I witnessed a sprinkle of elegant Side Saddle riders on mules. In the state of Colorado, there was a surge of Longears Side Saddle riders beginning in 1983. The Side Saddle class for mules at the National Western Stock Show in Denver, Colorado previously had no less than 10 entries in its beginning in 1983, when the mule division was brought back after a long absence from the show.
Generally speaking, people are quite impressed with the ladies who ride aside, and a common question often arises, “You sure look elegant, but how on earth can you stay on that way?!” We boldly reply, “Our mules teach us and WE LEARN…we are Lady Muleskinners!”
Actually, riding aside is much more secure than riding astride, because of the grip you can achieve with your legs around the pommel and leaping horn of the Side Saddle. You WILL need to use your stomach muscles to settle your seat smoothly at the trot and canter. When jumping, unlike riding the balanced seat to a fence with both legs forward and deep into your heels, you will need to lean forward and bend at the waist a bit to remain stable in your seat.
To help maintain your center of balance over the spine of the equine, practice by holding the mane in your left hand and reach behind and hang onto the crupper with your right hand. This really helps to keep your center of gravity and not slide to one side or the other. Remember to keep your balance despite having your legs wrapped around the horns. The stirrup on the left should be short enough to allow the femur to make contact with the left horn while your right leg keeps the femur parallel to the spine and simply lays your right calf over the right horn. If you grip too tight, it will twist your body out of alignment with the equine’s spine. Always look up and ahead!
This was demonstrated clearly at a Side Saddle clinic given by Patti Chadwick at the Bitterroot Mule Company in Bennett, Colorado on March 23rd of 1993. Six beginning Side Saddle riders of various equitation skills proved to be quite secure in their seats and no one had any real problems to speak of that day! All levels of riders were jumping cavalletti by the end of the clinic! So you see, it isn’t as insecure as one might be inclined to believe. And with an instructor like Patti Chadwick, it was a snap! The name of the game is “balance,” and whether riding aside on a horse, mule, pony or donkey, it is always a rewarding
challenge to finally be able to master this art.
My daughter Dena and I truly enjoyed riding aside both in shows and in parades. Dena was thrilled to be able to finally best seasoned Side Saddle rider, Crystal Ward, in the Bishop Mule Days Side Saddle class. Crystal was a practiced Side Saddle competitor from California at Bishop Mule Days that had bested her for the previous three years.
Side Saddles come in three basic categories: English, Western, and Period side saddles. The
English Side Saddle is probably the best one in which to learn, since the seat is better balanced over your animal. The Period Side Saddles are the worst, since most are built and balanced incorrectly for our contemporary riders and equines. The older Side Saddles were built to fit the smaller framed riders and larger animals of yesterday, they just don’t fit the conformation of the animals and the size of the ladies of today. Although most Side Saddles today are bought used, there are saddle companies that are making them again due to increased demand. If you buy a Side Saddle, make sure it fits your equine as well as yourself to assure the best ride. There are Vintage Side Saddles from different cultures. Just make sure the tack, equipment and equine match the accessories that you wear. Since Side Saddle is rather unique and there are not a lot of people showing in Side Saddle, the ladies have learned to accept the lax rules around the classes. If they are separated at all, it is usually split into WESTERN SIDE SADDLE and ENGLISH SIDE SADDLE classes.
Fitting the Side Saddle to your body is relatively simple. While seated on a chair, measure along the bottom of your thigh from the back of your bent knee to just beyond your hips under your tailbone. The saddle is measured from pommel to cantle and should exceed your leg measurement by no less than two inches. You can ride in a Side Saddle that is a little too large, but not in one that is too small! Consider the width of your saddle to avoid excessive overhang on each side.
The training of your equine for Side Saddle should be accomplished fairly easily if your animal has a good foundation to start, and those trained in Dressage will be the most easy to convert. The absence of the leg on the right side gives problems most often during the left lead canter and during the leg yield left. Though many ladies will use a whip as a substitute for the right leg, it is not necessary. The animal at the higher levels of training (1st Level Dressage and above) have learned to follow your seat, and will do quite nicely staying under your seat as you move through the patterns and lateral work. If your animal needs additional support, it can come through supportive indications through the reins. To achieve the left and right lead canter, for example, a slight push with your seat and a squeeze/release on the indicating directional rein will tell your animal the correct lead to take. It’s that simple!
Fitting the Side Saddle to your equine:
- Determine the type of Side Saddle you will ride. There are three basic types of Side Saddles: English, Western and Vintage (Period saddle). Be sure they are in good repair and balanced correctly. Pick the size that best fits both you and your equine.
- Any horse, mule, donkey or pony can be used for Side Saddle provided that they are a calm, suitable mount and that you can find the right Side Saddle to fit properly.
- Many off-track Thoroughbreds are extremely athletic and preferred by rider for Dressage, Jumping and Fox-Hunting.
- There are three types of Side Saddles that will be determined by use: Near Side, Off Side and Two-Sided.
- Riding NEAR SIDE is most common with your legs hung to your left side.

- Riding OFFSIDE is where your legs hang to your right is done for personal preference. Whether it is more comfortable due to an injury or the perfect fit, those who ride offside are genetically engineered to do so. It’s like writing with your left hand. Some like to ride offside in the Western Side Saddles because when you carry the reins in your left hand from the curb bit, you will feel more balanced. You should always carry your arm, from your elbow to your hand, parallel to the ground, and your upper arm should be close to your side to maintain your own good posture.

Side Saddle equines that need a warm-up with a male groom will often use a rigged Two-Sided Side Saddles. He would want to ride aside like the lady would do, but he would need to alter his legs position to exercise the animal in a symmetrical and balanced way. Riding astride a Side Saddle is VERY uncomfortable!- Men DO ride Side Saddle! It is often simply a challenge for them.
English Side Saddles are used with a Double Bridle or Pelham Bridles where the reins are carried in a balanced fashion on both sides. You should always have a straight line from your elbow to the bit.
Place the Side Saddle in the middle of your equine’s back such that you are sitting over the equine’s center of gravity…same as regular saddles. Breast collars are optional (do not use breeching with a Side Saddle). Always keep in mind that your rigging keeps the saddle secure on the back of your equine, so the straps should all be snugly adjusted.
Side Saddle Accessories:
- Appropriate hats are often fitted with a jockey helmet and chin straps underneath period hats for safety.

- Ladies that ride aside will typically wear a Side Saddle “veil netting” covering the hat from the brim and across their face.


- Stock ties are worn with the purpose of having something to use as an emergency bandage, or tourniquet on an injured horse, hound or person. The stock pin serves to fasten the bandage. Most ties on the market today are not strong and large enough to use for this purpose.
- Wear boots that are appropriate to your “habit,” or apron, which should match the Side Saddle style. Tall or short boots are acceptable as they will most likely be hidden underneath the apron or skirt.
- Whips are somewhat numerous and are mostly used on the side where there is no leg pressure to apply.
- The costume, or Habit, that you should wear should be appropriate for the style of your saddle.
- The whip should match the animal, saddle and the attire. The Gaited Whip is used for gaited animals and the Dressage whip for Dressage animals. All English whips are appropriate for training or hacking, but are not preferred, a black gaited whip or cane is used for the show ring. Most judges prefer NOT to see whips in Pleasure classes. The Hunt Whip should only be used in “Hunter” classes such as “Hunter Under Saddle or Hunter Hack” at a show, or in the field when fox hunting.
- Hunt Whips come in three sizes: Gentleman’s, Lady’s and Child’s. Bats are fine to use when schooling in jumping, but not considered correct for Side Saddle classes over fences.

Care & Reconditioning of Side Saddle & Tack:
- It is imperative that the leather on a Side Saddle be completely cleaned before applying conditioner, and they should be kept conditioned to avoid mold or mildew that can rot the leather. The same goes for all the tack and equipment.
- Keep tack and equipment in good repair.
- Use break-away stirrups with Side Saddles.

- If you come off a Side Saddle, you will most likely go off the right side or off the back, and it is VERY DIFFICULT to roll when you don’t land like you can when riding astride.
- The saddle pad should compliment tack and attire. For English Side Saddles, the typical closely-fitted Dressage English fleece saddle pad will usually fit the best.
- Girths include Fitzwilliam single or 3-fold wide girth, Leather 3-fold, Chafe less girth with elastic ends, Humane girth or a cord girth (not suitable for show).
There was a surge of shows in 1994 featuring mules being ridden Side Saddle in Fox Hunting, Parades, Open Horse Show classes, and Mule Shows, and they have continued to grow nationally. Mules proved their worth as Side Saddle mounts, primarily on the East Coast, California and Colorado!
If you think you might be interested in learning to ride aside, contact one of these organizations to find out what people you should contact in your area to help you and others that share your interest. The feeling of elegance and accomplishment is unmatched, especially after so much time spent in blue jeans and mucking boots. Our world could use a little more whimsy and romance to help the modern woman to enjoy her dignity and elegance in this fast-paced world. Hats off to the lovely ladies who ride aside!
There are quite a few a few existing Side Saddle organizations today that are available to those of you who might be interested in taking lessons and participating in shows and award programs. You can check your local area for one near you, or you can contact:
INTERNATIONAL SIDE SADDLE ORGANIZATION
90 Cumberland Avenue
Estell Manor, New Jersey 08319
(609) 476-2976
FAX (609) 476-2977
www.sidesaddle.com
aside1@starband.net
AMERICAN SIDE SADDLE ASSOCIATION
Use the email directory below to email someone directly. We will be in touch with you as soon as possible.
President … Maggie McAllister ……….. asapresident@amsidesaddle.com
Vice- President … Diana Kocunik …………. vicepresident@amsidesaddle.com
Secretary … Andee Vassar ………… secretary@amsidesaddle.com
Treasurer Monica Chapman …………. amsidesaddletreasurer@gmail.com
Librarian & Points Secretary … Vicki Pritchard ………… librarian@amsidesaddle.com
Marketing & Newsletter … Gael Orr …………. marketing@amsidesaddle.com
Membership Chair … ………….. membership@amsidesaddle.com
Webmaster … Audrey Sears ………… webmaster@amsidesaddle.com
- Photos in this article have been borrowed from the I.S.S.O. newsletter ASIDE WORLD.
To learn more about Meredith Hodges and her comprehensive all-breed equine training program, visit LuckyThreeRanch.com, MEREDITH HODGES PUBLIC FIGURE Facebook page, or call 1-800-816-7566. Check out her children’s website at JasperTheMule.com. Also, find Meredith on Pinterest, Instagram, MeWe, YouTube and Twitter.
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE and EQUUS REVISITED at www.luckythreeranchstore.com
© 2013, 2016, 2024 Lucky Three Ranch, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
MULE CROSSING: Appreciating “John Henry”
By Meredith Hodges
When fellow Longears Lover, Kathleen Conklin was looking to retire her 10-year-old Belgian/Saddlebred mare, she began her search for the perfect mule. In January of 1996, she narrowed her search to looking for a large mule that would fit her numerous larger carriages. She looked far and wide to find the special individual that could fill the shoes of her mare in riding, driving, fox hunting, showing and Combined Driving. After failing to find a mule that would be large enough and refined enough to suit this purpose, it finally dawned on Kathleen that she had not yet tapped the most obvious market right there in her own neck of the woods…the Amish community.
Kathleen found two different Amish farms in Pennsylvania that were offering many mules for sale, but most of the larger draft-bred mules were being sold as teams. She found none at the first farm that fit her expectations. The second farm had 60 mules for sale but only three were available as single mules. There was a grey, a Belgian and a black mule. Although the others were broke, the black mule was not—he wouldn’t even allow her to stand next to him. But broke or not, this was the mule she wanted!
When the mule was delivered, things didn’t seem right to Kathleen. This one was much too friendly and much easier to handle than the mule she had previously seen. She called the man who sold it to her and told him she had the wrong mule. He simply replied, “Oh, you noticed.” She made him pay for the return shipping and she finally got the mule she truly loved, who she named John Henry. And that was the beginning of a legacy!
John Henry grew to be the epitome of “versatility,” winning the Versatility Hall of Fame Award and subsequent numerous Honor Roll certificates (offered by the American Donkey and Mule Society) for his continuing excellence. John Henry competed under saddle, was successfully used for fox hunting and coon jumping, and excelled in Combined Driving. His exceptional and unique qualities were widely recognized, and he even had his own column in The Brayer Magazine (published by the A.D.M.S.), entitled, “Dear John Henry,” in which he gave sound advice to questions from other mules all over the country.
From 2003 to 2010, Kathleen and John Henry competed in the Commercial Carriage Division at the Walnut Hill Farm Driving Competition in Pittsford, New York, the finest pleasure driving competition in the United States. In the seven years they competed, John Henry was the only mule showing on the grounds, always competing against horses. His accomplishments got mules accepted into the American Driving Society, which made him beyond famous. Spectators flocked to see him compete every year, and he had his own fan club. He was either Champion or Reserve Champion of the Commercial Division a total of six times, showing under “rated” Commercial Driving judges from England. In 2011, just three weeks before he was to once again compete at Walnut Hill, John Henry passed away at the age of 20, a true champion right up to the end.
In early 2014, famed artist and wood carver, Dennis Page, asked my friend, Bonnie Shields (Tennessee mule artist and illustrator of my Jasper the Mule series), about a model for a “rocking mule” that he was going to carve out of wood. She suggested that he might want to model it after a ceramic sculpture she had done of John Henry, and he did just that. The wood-carved rocking mule of John Henry stands 48 inches tall and is just gorgeous! In fact, it is so beautiful that I bought it when it was finished.
I wanted to display the image of John Henry in all his glory, so Kathleen sent me two of his handsome championship ribbons from Walnut Hill Farm days. She also sold me his harness, his personal cooler (with the competition logo and his name on the front) and several pictures of him for the Lucky Three Ranch tribute to her legendary champion mule. I had the ribbons, Kathleen’s favorite picture of John Henry (from Bob Mischka’s mule calendar) and a tribute card framed and mounted on an easel, with the other items displayed behind the rocker.
John Henry was one of a kind and is sorely missed, especially by Kathleen. But she is elated that her beloved mule and his legacy are being honored with his own exhibit here at Loveland Longears Museum and Sculpture Park in Loveland, Colorado. Kathleen and John Henry had a wonderful time together, touching so many lives and showing everyone just how extraordinary a mule can truly be. Thank you, John Henry for opening people’s minds to the superior versatility of the mule and for paving the way for so many other mules to follow in your footsteps toward extraordinary equine achievement!
To learn more about Meredith Hodges and her comprehensive all-breed equine training program, visit LuckyThreeRanch.com, MEREDITH HODGES PUBLIC FIGURE Facebook page, or call 1-800-816-7566. Check out her children’s website at JasperTheMule.com. Also, find Meredith on Pinterest, Instagram, MeWe, YouTube and Twitter.
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE, EQUUS REVISITED and A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.
© 2014, 2016, 2024 Lucky Three Ranch, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Drive & Ride Show Class
The “Drive and Ride” class held at Longears and other equine shows exhibits an equine’s versatility. First, you are asked to drive at the walk, trot and extended trot both directions of the arena and then do a Rein Back in line. Then you are given 3 minutes to change tack and equipment and be judged the same way as a Pleasure Riding class. You can ride and drive either Western or English, but the tack and wardrobe for each segment must be consistent. This is a great way to train your equine and to show spectators the true versatility of your equine. It is also great practice for you to be able to tack and re-tack your equine…and change your attire…all in a matter of 3 minutes! That takes real organization skills that are calculated and consistently repetitive to be able to accomplish in that in such a limited amount of time! It is a fun class to watch as a spectator, but even more fun for exhibitors! Learn more in the various sections under TRAINING at www.luckythreeranch.com.
MULE CROSSING: Driving Activities
By Meredith Hodges
With the introduction of the automobile came decreased interest in horse-drawn vehicles. Tractors replaced equine-driven vehicles in the fields. It seemed as if equines had been put out of a job! But, as with any change, this was only temporary. Modern society still has need of equine participation, especially from donkeys and mules. The well-schooled driving donkey or mule is much safer and more reliable than any horse. The reason for this is the donkey and mules’ natural sensibility and their positive response to verbal communication. Once they have learned the parameters of their job, if treated fairly, they will calmly and diligently go about their business, flicking their ears back and forth toward the driver, always listening for verbal reinforcement of their behavior. In a pinch, they can more often be prevented from “freaking out” with a few calm and reassuring words. Their strength and durability enables them to work longer and harder hours than can a horse and their variety of sizes and colors provides them as suitable driving animals for a number of driving-related activities.
Most often we see driving animals in parades. Although it seems simple enough to drive down a parade route, there are a number of things to consider that can complicate the issue. Parade routes are lined with potential hazards and an overload of outside stimuli. Horses that become spooked have been known to bolt and actually run right through crowds of people. I have yet to hear of a donkey or mule that has done such a thing! Perhaps it is because the donkey or mule will not run into trouble if he can possibly avoid it. He will also be more likely to rely upon his driver for support and direction through the safest route. He will stop if in doubt of a situation when properly trained. Mules and donkeys are familiar with teamwork and will work as a team with their driver. The frightened horse just says, “Forget you!” and leaves!
Driving competitions are becoming more popular than ever these days as a number of different types of driving classes are being made available to contestants. For the really serious competitor, there are pleasure, obstacle, and Reinsmanship classes in which to measure one’s progress in performance.
As the competitor improves, he may move into marathon driving, testing his skills across country and through obstacles (called hazards). The driver may use singles, or teams, depending on his personal preference. The American Driving Society has been more than generous, allowing mules and donkeys to compete in most of their events right along with the horses. For more fun-loving competitors, there are a lot of different driving games, gauged for the ability of the competitors. This allows even the most inexperienced driver some source of enjoyment from which he can derive a sense of accomplishment and excitement.
For those who want to enjoy a nice day in the country with their animals, there are rallies and organized picnic drives. This type of driving is more relaxing, but no less rewarding and satisfying than competitive events. Awards are sometimes given at rallies for coming in closest to the optimum time, but the pace is usually quite leisurely! Your donkey or mule will love the alternative to showing and will enjoy the activities as much as you do.
Mules and donkeys are used in many tourist areas, pulling cabs and carriages of all varieties, taking tourists in a more leisurely fashion through the streets of history and tradition. Couples can romantically celebrate special moments in their relationships with a relaxing ride in a special cab or buggy. The sensible mule or donkey assures a safe and romantic memory that will stay with you for the rest of your life! We have used our mules to pull carriages for weddings and receptions, adding a touch of class and a little tradition to an otherwise fast-paced and chaotic world!
Because of their thoughtful and affectionate nature, donkeys and mules are ideal candidates for handicapped and disabled drive and ride programs. They are not as abruptly spooked as horses, and are therefore less likely to unseat a disabled rider, or run off with a disabled driver. Horses have fared reasonably well in riding programs for the disabled and handicapped, but are not really reliable enough for driving programs of this kind. This is where Longears can excel! Mule and donkey drive and ride programs, such as the Slade Centre at the Donkey Sanctuary in Great Britain, afford disabled and handicapped people the opportunity to enjoy the wonders of nature by offering them more mobility with the assistance of a new “friend” who is gentle and affectionate. These “friends” replace hopelessness with joy and fulfillment, helping to make life worth living!

Driving itself is a wonderful recreation for just about anyone, from the smallest child to the eldest grandmother. Driving donkeys or mules gives you that extra sense of security in an otherwise potentially dangerous situation. Driving a donkey or mule can provide a companion and friend to otherwise lonely and unfulfilled persons, keeping life more positive and enjoyable. Riding equines for enjoyment still requires a certain amount of training and practice. Learning to drive requires a lot less training and practice time for the driver, provided that the animal is well-schooled and obedient. Small farms today still use mules and donkeys for farm work. When they know their job, they do it with ease and sometimes work exclusively on verbal communication. Old farmers speak of their mules with pride and affection. It’s nice to have a “hand” that doesn’t talk back and isn’t afraid of a little hard work! In this fast-paced world, sometimes it’s nice to go a little slower and take in all the beautiful and fulfilling things that life has to offer, like a relaxing drive in the country with your very best friend!
To learn more about Meredith Hodges and her comprehensive all-breed equine training program, visit LuckyThreeRanch.com, MEREDITH HODGES PUBLIC FIGURE Facebook page, or call 1-800-816-7566. Check out her children’s website at JasperTheMule.com. Also, find Meredith on Pinterest, Instagram, MeWe, YouTube and Twitter.
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE, EQUUS REVISITED and A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.
© 2013, 2016, 2024 Lucky Three Ranch, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
From Patricia: What We Saw, And What Comes Next
The following is from the American Wild Horse Conservation:
MULE CROSSING: Differences Among Horses, Mules and Donkeys
By Meredith Hodges
After discussing this with my veterinarian, Greg Farrand from Fort Collins, Colorado, we both agree that since horses, mules and donkeys are all equines, it would be difficult to make any distinction among these three types of animals with regard to their vital signs: pulse respiration and temperature. They would all fall within the designated ranges below that are excerpted from my book, “A Guide to Raising & Showing Equines.” The only real differences would be with regard to each individual equine and not among groups of equines. There has not been any credible scientific study to be able to differentiate the different types of equine groups in this manner and I would venture to guess that it would be the same with all equines, including zebras and hybrids. Therefore, I believe that citing the vital signs ranges would be appropriate, but not citing medians (modals).
- Daytime rectal temp mule foal/yearling 37.5C-38.5C normal range
- Pulse at rest – adult mule; normal 26-40
- Pulse at rest foals 2-4 weeks; normal range 70-90
- Pulse at rest mule 6-12 months; normal range 45-60
- Pulse at rest mule 2-3 years; 40-50



Actual differences would be as follows:
Horse
Reactive-Flight reflex
Fragile health
More bulk musculature
(like a weight lifter)
Awkward on uneven ground
Round platter-type hooves
Longer slope to shoulders and hips
Limited stamina
Energy waster
Forgets what he learns
More reactive than intelligent
Neigh – exhale
64 chromosomes
Self-preservation not strong
Tolerant of humans
Expensive to maintain
Can have excessive vet bills
Constant hoof management needed
Cannot see their hind feet
Can only kick forward and Backwards
Colors strictly defined within the breeds
Mature at six years
Will fight if entangled
Low level training goes quickly,
but not necessarily remembered
Upper level training improves
generally at the same rate
Mules
Thinking & Reactive-freeze/flight reflexes
Tougher/more resistant to parasites
and disease
Predominantly smooth muscle with
some bulk (combination of
smooth & bulk muscle)
More sure-footed than a horse
Oval, narrow, more upright hoof
structure than a horse
Steeper shoulders and hips than horses
Incredible stamina
Energy conserver
Remembers everything he learns
Very intelligent
Neigh-bray or combination
thereof – inhale and exhale
Generally 63 chromosomes
Strong sense of self preservation
Suspicious, but very
affectionate toward humans
Cheaper to keep – more durable
Fewer vet bills
Tougher hooves – less management
Can see their hind feet
Can kick, forward,
backwards and sideways
More variations in color
contributed by both parents
Mature at eight years
Will wait to be rescued if entangled
Low level training take more time
Upper level training goes faster
Donkey
Thinking equine-freeze reflex
Same as a mule (genetic contribution)
Predominantly smooth muscle
Most sure-footed
Oval, narrow, more upright
hoof structure than a mule
Steeper shoulders
and hips than a mule
Virtually intolerant to stress
Most energy conserver
Remembers, but only
complies when he wants to
Most intelligent
Bray-inhale and exhale
62 chromosomes
Ultimate sense of
self-preservation
Generally, very affectionate
toward humans
Cheapest to keep – very durable
Least number of vet bills
Toughest hooves – least
management needed
Can see their hind feet
Same as the mule
Less variations in
color than the mule
Mature at eight years
Will break loose or wait
to be rescued if entangled
Low level training takes
the most time
Not necessarily interested
in upper level training
To learn more about Meredith Hodges and her comprehensive all-breed equine training program, visit LuckyThreeRanch.com, MEREDITH HODGES PUBLIC FIGURE Facebook page, or call 1-800-816-7566. Check out her children’s website at JasperTheMule.com. Also, find Meredith on Pinterest, Instagram, MeWe, YouTube and Twitter.
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE, EQUUS REVISITED and A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES at www.luckythreeranchstore.com
© 2013, 2016, 2024 Lucky Three Ranch, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
MULE CROSSING: Getting Down with Minis, Part 2
By Meredith Hodges
In Part 1 of this article, you learned how to begin your relationship with your miniature equine in a positive and natural way, and how “getting down” to their eye level so they can make eye contact with you discourages striking, jumping on you and other bad behaviors that are common when working with miniature equines. Be sure you have successfully completed the lessons in Part 1 before moving on to the lessons in Part 2 or training may not yield the desired positive results. Also, if possible, it is best to work minis in groups if they are used to being with other equines, as they perform better when they are with their “friends” and it doesn’t hurt to train their friends in the same way.
Let’s begin with something you and your mini will experience on a regular basis: a visit from the farrier. First, lead your mini to the work station (as described in Part 1). When you get to the work station, tie up your mini and sit on the floor with him (as you did in the pen). Now you will be having a “picnic” (as you did
in Part 1), but this time you will be in the work station and you will have a guest…the farrier. Before the farrier attempts to pick up the first foot, ask him to sit down beside your mini in front of the shoulder on the left side and offer a handful of oats as a way of introducing himself. Next, while you sit at your mini’s head and offer the oats reward for good behavior, have the farrier begin with the near side (left) front foot and work his way around from front to back, and then from back to front on the other side (right). While the farrier is working, talk calmly and encouragingly to your mini, and as long as he is doing what is asked of him, offer rewards generously. He should yield his feet easily, but if he does not don’t offer the reward until he complies.
Don’t shove your mini when you want him to move over. Rather, give him some oats and use your index finger to tap or poke him on the side of his ribcage. If he doesn’t move over, use your whole hand to give him a slight push, always using a “push and release” movement, which is non-confrontational. You don’t want to keep steadily pushing up against him, because as soon as you give him anything to push against, he will and you could find yourself in a pushing match or, worse, a confrontation with him. As soon as he complies and moves, give him the oats reward and slide your body in next to him to help hold him in position for the farrier as he works with each foot. Don’t be afraid and always stay on the same side as the farrier. If the mini decides to make an abrupt move, he will try to slide around you because equines really don’t like stepping on, or running over, soft, squishy things like our bodies, so if your mini can get out of your way, he will. Even if he was to jump up in the air, he would more than likely jump over or around you, taking the path of least resistance. Trust your mini, stay calm and avoid becoming tense or exhibiting fear and things should go smoothly.
Once your mini is leading well, has accepted the farrier and is ready to investigate obstacles, you can begin to take him for walks and see how many different things you can investigate together. At each obstacle, be polite and tug on the lead rope only until it is taut, then wait for your mini to respond. If he balks and you need to keep hold of his lead rope because of potential danger, just let out the slack on the lead rope and allow him to take a little more time going through the obstacle. If you are negotiating something like ditches or water and your mini balks, lengthen the lead rope to get to the far side of the obstacle and hold tension on the rope until he complies and comes forward over or through the obstacle. If leading two minis and one of them balks, lengthen the balky one’s lead rope and let it lay out on the ground while you take the more compliant mini through the obstacle. Then let go of the first mini’s lead rope and pick up the lead rope of the balky one, holding the tension until he negotiates the obstacle and joins you and the first mini on the other side of the ditch or water.
This approach becomes particularly important when negotiating something like a dock or a bridge where you are not only dealing with an obstacle, but an obstacle that makes you substantially taller than you already appear to your mini. This is another instance when you can “get down” on your mini’s eye level the way you did in the pen and at the work station. Remember to do things in small steps. When you walk onto the surface of the dock or bridge or any other large, flat surface, leave enough room for your mini to come up. When you get to the end of the lead rope, take up the slack and then sit down and offer the reward. Then, once your mini has negotiated the obstacle, give him the oats reward and just have another picnic. If a companion equine is accompanying you, be sure to tie the companion animal in front of the obstacle so your mini can always see him. If you tie him behind, your mini will worry and want to go back instead of forward.
When you are ready to step down off the dock or bridge, it would be unsafe to be lower than your mini, so at this point you should stand up, go to the end of the obstacle and ask him to come forward off the raised obstacle, making sure he has plenty of room to come off the obstacle without you having to move. Stand quietly and keep the lead rope taut as you verbally encourage him and invite him to come down off the bridge. As soon as he jumps down, ask for a halt and reward him for jumping down and stopping right in front of you. (He will learn to negotiate the obstacle more slowly with practice.) Once he has finished negotiating the obstacle and halted and is chewing on his reward, you can then proceed to the next obstacle. Having definite, purposeful and timely pauses will help alleviate anxiety and resistance in your mini.
Be vigilant about when it is safe to get down to his level and when it is better to stay standing. Always opt for the low-level eye contact whenever possible and when you determine that it is safe to do so. Remember, the
longer he must go without making eye contact with you, the greater the chance of resistance, but eye contact on his level will give him confidence in your judgment and will help to facilitate a real bond between you. If negotiating an obstacle such as a tractor tire or six tires, just extend the lead rope over the tire or tires, sit on that side, keep the rope taut and proceed as you did with the bridge obstacle.
Allow your mini to come forward and look at the tire, put his nose in the middle of it and, if he wants to, put his front foot up in the air to “feel” the space. If he wants to stand on the tire, that’s all right, too, but remember to keep the rope taut and don’t pull—release pressure as soon as he begins to move. Pulling is a common mistake that people often make, which can easily throw an equine off balance, creating a dangerous situation.
I call this technique “OATS.” (Observe, Approach, Touch and Sigh). It allows your mini time to observe each situation, then approach and touch the obstacle, finally giving a sigh as a signal that he is relaxed and not afraid. Always reward him for his efforts so he can begin to gain confidence and trust in you. By following the OATS technique you are turning your mini’s fear into curiosity, which will serve to keep him calm in future situations.
Part 3 of this article will cover negotiating obstacles with more finesse, lunging and groundwork in harness.
To learn more about Meredith Hodges and her comprehensive all-breed equine training program, visit LuckyThreeRanch.com, MEREDITH HODGES PUBLIC FIGURE Facebook page, or call 1-800-816-7566. Check out her children’s website at JasperTheMule.com. Also, find Meredith on Pinterest, Instagram, MeWe, YouTube and Twitter.
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE, EQUUS REVISITED and A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.
© 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2019, 2024 Lucky Three Ranch, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Chilly Pepper – Only $1435 needed to save Sea Tac
The following is from Chilly Pepper – Miracle Mustang:



WE ONLY NEED $1435 TO SAVE SEATAC
| Thank you to everyone who has stepped up to help our Senior Guy! |
Quick Update
Received an emergency call for a senior horse. SeaTac is in his twenties, and I was contacted to see if we could take him. I do NOT have a photo of SeaTac.
| This is a BEHIND THE SCENES, no publicity deal. NO SOCIAL MEDIA! In the 20 plus years I have been doing this, we had two who came from the “direct ship” and they were considered “behind the scenes”. The seller had told the shipper they wanted them to ship and he couldn’t save them. You Did Save Them!!!!, because we did what we were asked. |
SeaTac is NOT a direct ship, but I was told this needs to stay quiet due to family stuff. The family asked us to handle it this way, and I am doing what I said.
SeaTac has been extremely well cared for. He simply needs to move from where he is at and Chilly Pepper was their only choice.
We need $2500 and that includes funds to help care for him, brand inspection, any vetting needed etc.
We only have 3 days and PLEASE do not post this to your social media. Help me get him home to Chilly Pepper so he can live out his life being loved and spoiled.
SeaTac is counting on you as I cannot fundraise for this horse on line. Let’s bring him home.
We just had a baby adopted, so that opened up a space for SeaTac. God’s timing is pretty awesome.
All the other horses are doing well. Tabitha is figuring it out and seems pretty comfortable.
Hugs and thank you,
Palomino & All the Critters
You can donate to Goldendale Veterinary – 509-773-0369 You can donate to Zimmerman Vet – 775-623-0981
Zelle® Wildhorses In Need Palominodancer@yahoo.com 530-339-1458
| Venmo – @WIN-dba-ChillyPepper New CashAp – $ChillyPepperMM (Win dba Chilly Pepper) |
Cash AP – $ChillyPepperMM (Win dba Chilly Pepper)
You can go to gofundme<-https://www.
You can donate via check at: Chilly Pepper PO Box 233 Golconda, NV 89414
| You can also donate via credit card by calling Palomino at 530-339-1458. |





































Side Saddle equines that need a warm-up with a male groom will often use a rigged Two-Sided Side Saddles. He would want to ride aside like the lady would do, but he would need to alter his legs position to exercise the animal in a symmetrical and balanced way. Riding astride a Side Saddle is VERY uncomfortable!
English Side Saddles are used with a Double Bridle or Pelham Bridles where the reins are carried in a balanced fashion on both sides. You should always have a straight line from your elbow to the bit.
Place the Side Saddle in the middle of your equine’s back such that you are sitting over the equine’s center of gravity…same as regular saddles. Breast collars are optional (do not use breeching with a Side Saddle). Always keep in mind that your rigging keeps the saddle secure on the back of your equine, so the straps should all be snugly adjusted.




