LTR Blog

(Page 31) Although the “Elbow Pull” is a very simple and straight forward device to help keep you equine in good posture, it is also a device that needs to be custom made to fit each individual equine. Equines that are approximately the same size in the front quarters will probably be able to use the same one. First, you need to obtain a package of 3/8″ twisted nylon rope. It is generally sold on the internet in 50′ spools, but is fairly inexpensive. Do not substitute any other kind of rope or leather reins, etc. as this will have a different weight and slippage around the bridle and will not have the same effect. Make sure that when you use the “Elbow Pull” that you place it OVER the crown piece on your bridle to prevent chafing and that you adjust it by first getting them to flex at the poll (by cupping your hand at the muzzle and rocking it forward and back or just offer some oats to get him to flex) and then push UP on his muzzle until he begins to push the nose out and hollow his back. This is not a device to “tie” their heads down. It should be adjusted just tight enough to prevent them from hollowing their neck and back, but still giving them full range of motion in every other direction (Up, down and to the sides).

You will also need two snaps that are narrow, yet fairly strong that can fit easily through the rings on your surcingle, or Western saddle. English saddle D-rings are generally too small and in this situation, we do not attach to them, but rather attach the “Elbow Pull” to itself after looping it through tied up stirrups. If you make the rope a bit longer for adjustment sake, you can loop it over the withers and attach it to the small D-rings on the opposite sides. The reason for twisted rope is so you can actually go through the D-rings and snap it into the twisted rope itself for a more exact setting. You would just untwist the rope at the setting point and snap into the middle of the rope so it won’t slide. With horses, you would just twist the rope over the back as shown so the snaps are a moot point until the horse learns to give to the “Elbow Pull” and can be hard tied.

Have the equine stand at the hitch rail with the snaffle bridle on. To get a measurement for how long a piece of rope you will need for his “Elbow Pull,” take a length of rope from the coil. From the near side (left side of your equine), feed the end of the rope from the inside to the outside of the snaffle bit ring, drape it over the poll of your equine and feed it from the outside of the snaffle bit ring to the inside on the off side (right) of your equine. Pull enough slack to go down through the front legs, behind the forearm, up and over the back such that it hangs 12 inches (or a bit more, but not less) over the spine. Then, go back to the near side on where you started and pull enough rope from the spool do the same thing on that side. When you have enough rope to loop over the spine on that side, you can cut the rope at 12 inches (or a bit more, but not less).

Once you have the proper length of rope for your equine, you will need to unravel 3″-4″ of one end of the rope and loop it through the ring on your first snap. Then you will braid the rope back into itself. First, pick the loose strand that is on top as you lay the rope across your hand, bend it around the end of the snap and feed it under a twist of the rope such that it creates a loop around the end of you snap and pull it snug. Then take the next loose strand (which would be the middle of the three strands) and feed it under the next twist down from the one you just did. Then do the same with the third loose strand under the third twist in the rope. Take all three strands in your hand, hold the rope so it doesn’t twist and pull all three strands snug. They should all line up.

Next, turn the rope over so you can see where the angled lines of the twisted rope begins again and feed the first strand under the first twist, the second under the second twist and the third under the third twist. Pull all three strands snug at the same time, turn the rope over, locate the first twist in the line and repeat until you have all 3″-4″ braided into the twisted rope. You will have some loose ends sticking out and nylon rope can slip, so you now need to take a lighter and burn all these ends until they are melted together and will not slip. Be sure that you burn them so they are smooth and without bumps or it will be difficult to feed the ends through the D-rings. Do the same with your second snap on the other end of the rope. Now, you have your own custom made “Elbow Pull!” If this is confusing, you can purchase our EQUUS REVISITED DVD which has a SPECIAL FEATURE that will show you how to do this at www.luckythreeranchstore.com

(Pg. 20, 9-26-16) When I first began training equines, I used “Side Reins” to help my Longears to collect their bodies for optimum use in the Round Pen after leading training for correct postural core strength in the Hourglass Pattern, but it didn’t take me long to realize that there were serious issues with the “Side Reins.” First, the “Side Reins” seemed to cause tension throughout the body instead of producing freedom of movement in good equine posture. “Side Reins” did produce flexion at the poll, but the hind quarters were only partially engaged and were still being somewhat “trailered” behind. The moderate stretch in the “Side Reins” invited my Longears to pull against them resulting in the saddle slipping forward even with the crupper snugly attached, causing the mule or donkey to raise his head instead of relaxing and “giving” at the poll with no tension. And, it did not allow for much freedom of motion. The “Elbow Pull” alleviates all of these issues and produces the freedom of movement in good equine posture that I sought. The “Elbow Pull” is NOT a “Tie Down” or “Draw Reins,” and does not produce the same reaction from the equine. Rather, it is a “POSTURAL AID” that helps them to keep their whole body in good posture during lessons with leading, lunging, ground driving and even riding. It allows the equine to raise his head above the withers with full freedom of movement. They can lower their head and neck all the way to the ground, and as far as they can reach from side to side. It only restricts them from raising their head so high that they hollow their neck and back. Breeds that like to carry their heads higher like Saddlebreds, Tennessee Walkers, Arabians, Thoroughbreds and other “high-headed” individuals can still be quite comfortable in this postural AID (or restraint). My equines gained postural balance with increased core strength in the elements that support the skeletal frame during the leading exercises, and showed increased range of motion with the “Elbow Pull.” They were better able to step well underneath their bodies with their hind quarters for increased impulsion and suspension. They learned to execute turns and pivots properly, staying in good posture through the turns while properly placing their hind quarter pivot foot.

They were better able to collect their bodies for a smooth and truly remarkable ride during more collected demands, such as the very slow Western Pleasure walk, trot and canter, and in the more collected gaits with the added impulsion and movements of Dressage. This freedom of movement has produced amazing versatility in my equines with minimal resistance and has created multiple Lucky Three Ranch champions in all kinds of equine activities, but you must do the correct postural leading exercises in the very beginning before putting the “Elbow Pull” to other uses for the best results. If your equine is over two years old, it is advisable to do the leading exercises in the Hourglass Pattern WITH the “Elbow PULL.” Animals under 2 years will not need this kind of restraint until later. Give your equine the athletic edge and make your training experience resistance free! Peruse our website at www.luckythreeranch.com and look in the various sections under TRAINING and in the STORE for reliable management and training information. How to make the “Elbow Pull” is covered in my EQUUS REVISITED DVD in the STORE. And, if you have any further questions or concerns, please feel free to email me at meredith@luckythreeranch.com and I will answer you PROMPTLY.

(Page 29) THE “ELBOW PULL” The “Elbow Pull” is a self-correcting restraint for your equine that I developed to help the equine to maintain good posture in a balanced frame throughout his various lessons. Ordinarily, it is first used in our program after the young equine (2 years and under) graduates from the leading exercises (on the flat ground for postural balance and over obstacles to add coordination to the good posture while moving). If the equine is over two years old, I recommend doing all the leading exercises in the “Elbow Pull.” He will need to alter his unbalanced way of moving right from the beginning. Good posture is not inherent; it must be taught. Doing these leading exercises with this purpose in mind will prepare him to balance his body properly on a circle in the Round Ren. The “Elbow Pull” does not tie his head down and is completely self-corrected by the equine himself. It encourages him to stay erect in his body while bending through his rib cage, but prevents him from being able to hollow his neck and back when in more active motion. It gives him more responsibility for his self-carriage in good equine posture while you stand in the middle of the Round Pen when his head is no longer at your shoulder. It will help to keep him from leaning like a motorcycle on the circle and through turns so that the elements at the core that support the skeleton are developed symmetrically with no compromises. Its purpose is similar to the bar on the wall that a ballet dancer uses until they can sustain their own balance unassisted.

The leading lessons, both on flat ground and through obstacles, will strengthen his core in good equine posture, but the benefit of those exercises could be lost if he does not continue in good posture on the circle in the Round Pen where you are no longer right next to him to correct his posture. The “Elbow Pull” puts pressure on the poll, corners of the lips, behind the forearm and over the back when he begins to fall out of good posture. When the tension on the “Elbow Pull” is correctly adjusted, it will remain loose when he is taking complete responsibility for his own balance. When he raises his head and begins to go out of good posture, it will prevent him from hollowing his neck and back, gives him free range of motion in all other directions and still gives him something to lean against to sustain a reasonably good posture while briefly resting his muscles. Until your equine is strong enough in his core muscles to sustain his own balance consistently, he will move in and out of keeping the “Elbow Pull” loose.

When it is loose, there is no pressure at all. You will know his core is adequately strengthened when it remains loose throughout his entire Round Pen lunging lessons. Then he can graduate to ground driving lessons and his first riding lessons in the Round Pen and later in the open arena. Ride with the “Elbow Pull” when you introduce your added weight. When the “Elbow Pull” remains loose throughout the exercises, it is no longer needed. Your animal will then have a strong core and maintain his good equine posture without it. His habitual way of moving will have been changed and all he will need is turnout to practice his new-found ideal posture on his own. The “Elbow Pull” can be used with leading training exercises during the rehabilitation of older animals that have not had the benefit of this early experience.

Developing balance and strength in good equine posture results in numerous benefits for you and your equine from standing still when mounting to simultaneous flying lead changes and balanced sliding stops. This approach builds confidence in the equine and subdues the flight reflex making for a much safer ride. To enhance your skills, learn more about our comprehensive management and training program under TRAINING on our website at www.luckythreeranch.com.