Kyle Davidson

About Kyle Davidson

Posts by Kyle Davidson:

October 18 2019

LTR Music Videos: Multiple Longears Hitches

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May 27 2024

MULE CROSSING: Meredith’s Mule/Donkey Poetry — The Difference Between a Whinny and a Bray-Neigh

Kyle Davidson LTR Blog, Mule Crossing Meredith Hodges, Mule Crossing, Poetry 0

A horse can be dominated by man
A mule can be dominated by none

A horse succumbs to aggression
A mule succumbs to affection

A horse is indifferent to man
A mule is inquisitive to man

A horse moves, then thinks
A mule thinks, then moves

A horse looks at you
A mule looks into you

A horse is trained by short punishment and small rewards
A mule is trained by long patience and great logic

To ride a horse well, one must be proud
To ride a mule well, one must be humble

The more one understands people, the more one loves animals
The more one understands animals, the more one loves mules!

To learn more about Meredith Hodges and her comprehensive all-breed equine training program, visit LuckyThreeRanch.com, MEREDITH HODGES PUBLIC FIGURE Facebook page, or call 1-800-816-7566. Check out her children’s website at JasperTheMule.com. Also, find Meredith on Pinterest, Instagram, MeWe, YouTube and Twitter.

April 22 2024

MULE CROSSING: Riding Side Saddle (Aside)

Kyle Davidson LTR Blog, Mule Crossing Meredith Hodges, Mule Crossing, side saddle 0

By Meredith Hodges

INTRODUCTION

I was born LOVING horses in Minneapolis, Minnesota in 1950. I got a pair of chaps and a “bouncing” horse when I was six years old. My Grandmother was always teaching me about Good Posture and Good Manners. She once wanted to take me on a shopping trip to the local mall and requested that I put on one of my frilly dresses. She told me that all the little girls would be wearing them and I flatly refused! You don’t ride horses in frilly dresses! I was a Tom-Boy all the way through! I didn’t want to be a boy, I just wanted to be READY TO RIDE! So, my Grandmother conceded and let me wear my pants! When we got back, she said, “See, I told you all the pretty little girls would be wearing dresses. Now don’t you wish you had worn yours?” “Nope,” I replied and she just shrugged! I still wore my dresses to church!

We moved to California in 1958 when I finally got my first horse, Duchess! I was still very much a Tom Boy now…cleaning stalls, doing chores on the ranch and riding my horse. In 1961, I even joined 4-H and got 4 Hereford cattle. Now I was a REAL Cowgirl!

In 1962, I finally got some jeans to wear my chaps over, a belt, cowgirl boots, proper Western shirts and a hat! Still, I learned feminine skills like cooking and sewing from my Grandmother, and still wore my dresses on Sunday! I was working on becoming a lady, but most of the time I was being a real Western girl!

In 1973-79, I worked on my mother’s Windy Valley Mule Ranch training 30 weanlings a year to lead. In 1980, I moved to Colorado and started my own Lucky Three Ranch. I spent the next 20 years trying to prove that mules and donkeys could really do anything that horses could do and much more! I rode them in every event that I was allowed to against horses until I won, and then moved on to the next discipline until I won against the horses again.

As we improved our skills, I had seven different mules to school, so I would not just practice one thing over and over. I practiced different disciplines on different days during the week. I never “drilled” on anything, but spent limited time teaching the things I had learned slowly, sequentially and logically. The mules really loved this approach, enjoyed the diversity of the lessons and learned quickly.

Our schedule went something like this: Monday – Thursday were training days from 5 a.m. to 5 p.m. (sometimes later) , Friday was a day of rest for the mules while I packed up my truck and trailer for the weekend show, Friday night, or early Saturday morning, we would load up and leave for the show, and return on Sunday night when the cycle would start over again!

We competed in Gymkhana, English & Western Pleasure, Pleasure Driving & Gambler’s Choice, Drive & Ride, Western Riding, Reining, Trail, Dressage & Combined Training. It made for exceptional skills as I learned and my equines just kept getting better and better.

The crowning glory was not just our success in Dressage & Combined Training, but we had learned together, which made learning Side Saddle a whole lot easier than you might think! We even jumped 2’9” Side Saddle. It was by no means a cinch! When lucky Three Ciji and I won I.S.S.O. Champion in 1992 and then Reserve Champion in 1993, I bought a LIFE MEMBERSHIP to the International Side Saddle Organization and continued to compete. I was wearing dresses, and aprons, and when I rode, I was not prepared for the emotional high I got from finally becoming a real lady…a LADY MULESKINNER!

Today, the concept of elegance has been greatly compromised by the fast pace of our progressive society. Few of us have neither the time nor the inclination to do what is necessary to cultivate this concept as a major part of our lives. Women today have far too many jobs and responsibilities with which to cope without worrying about being elegant,unless she lives in a densely populated urban area. There are just not a lot of places where a woman can practice being elegant. One of the places she can, however, is in the growing number of Side Saddle classes offered at many of the different Breed Shows across the country. The equestrian art of Side Saddle is currently being revitalized among the different breeds and one of the most enthusiastic groups is our own Longears lovers! But, elegance is not necessarily the only reason our Longears Ladies are riding aside. The lady equestrians of today like to get a more well-rounded education in the art of Horsemanship riding astride,and the perfection of their balanced seat when riding aside only enhances their existing abilities.

Mules can be lovely, obedient and secure Side Saddle mounts when they are brought along correctly, as has been exhibited nationally by Crystal Ward and her mule, Final Legacy. I also fondly remember Ann Hathaway and her Dressage mule, Baby Huey, exhibiting Side Saddle in the Bishop Mule Days parade years ago. I judged the A.D.M.S. Nationals in Austin, Minnesota, and again, I witnessed a sprinkle of elegant Side Saddle riders on mules. In the state of Colorado, there was a surge of Longears Side Saddle riders beginning in 1983. The Side Saddle class for mules at the National Western Stock Show in Denver, Colorado previously had no less than 10 entries in its beginning in 1983, when the mule division was brought back after a long absence from the show.

Generally speaking, people are quite impressed with the ladies who ride aside, and a common question often arises, “You sure look elegant, but how on earth can you stay on that way?!” We boldly reply, “Our mules teach us and WE LEARN…we are Lady Muleskinners!”

Actually, riding aside is much more secure than riding astride, because of the grip you can achieve with your legs around the pommel and leaping horn of the Side Saddle. You WILL need to use your stomach muscles to settle your seat smoothly at the trot and canter. When jumping, unlike riding the balanced seat to a fence with both legs forward and deep into your heels, you will need to lean forward and bend at the waist a bit to remain stable in your seat.

To help maintain your center of balance over the spine of the equine, practice by holding the mane in your left hand and reach behind and hang onto the crupper with your right hand. This really helps to keep your center of gravity and not slide to one side or the other. Remember to keep your balance despite having your legs wrapped around the horns. The stirrup on the left should be short enough to allow the femur to make contact with the left horn while your right leg keeps the femur parallel to the spine and simply lays your right calf over the right horn. If you grip too tight, it will twist your body out of alignment with the equine’s spine. Always look up and ahead!

This was demonstrated clearly at a Side Saddle clinic given by Patti Chadwick at the Bitterroot Mule Company in Bennett, Colorado on March 23rd of 1993. Six beginning Side Saddle riders of various equitation skills proved to be quite secure in their seats and no one had any real problems to speak of that day! All levels of riders were jumping cavalletti by the end of the clinic! So you see, it isn’t as insecure as one might be inclined to believe. And with an instructor like Patti Chadwick, it was a snap! The name of the game is “balance,” and whether riding aside on a horse, mule, pony or donkey, it is always a rewarding challenge to finally be able to master this art.

My daughter Dena and I truly enjoyed riding aside both in shows and in parades. Dena was thrilled to be able to finally best seasoned Side Saddle rider, Crystal Ward, in the Bishop Mule Days Side Saddle class. Crystal was a practiced Side Saddle competitor from California at Bishop Mule Days that had bested her for the previous three years.

Side Saddles come in three basic categories: English, Western, and Period side saddles. The English Side Saddle is probably the best one in which to learn, since the seat is better balanced over your animal. The Period Side Saddles are the worst, since most are built and balanced incorrectly for our contemporary riders and equines. The older Side Saddles were built to fit the smaller framed riders and larger animals of yesterday, they just don’t fit the conformation of the animals and the size of the ladies of today. Although most Side Saddles today are bought used, there are saddle companies that are making them again due to increased demand. If you buy a Side Saddle, make sure it fits your equine as well as yourself to assure the best ride. There are Vintage Side Saddles from different cultures. Just make sure the tack, equipment and equine match the accessories that you wear. Since Side Saddle is rather unique and there are not a lot of people showing in Side Saddle, the ladies have learned to accept the lax rules around the classes. If they are separated at all, it is usually split into WESTERN SIDE SADDLE and ENGLISH SIDE SADDLE classes.

Fitting the Side Saddle to your body is relatively simple. While seated on a chair, measure along the bottom of your thigh from the back of your bent knee to just beyond your hips under your tailbone. The saddle is measured from pommel to cantle and should exceed your leg measurement by no less than two inches. You can ride in a Side Saddle that is a little too large, but not in one that is too small! Consider the width of your saddle to avoid excessive overhang on each side.

The training of your equine for Side Saddle should be accomplished fairly easily if your animal has a good foundation to start, and those trained in Dressage will be the most easy to convert. The absence of the leg on the right side gives problems most often during the left lead canter and during the leg yield left. Though many ladies will use a whip as a substitute for the right leg, it is not necessary. The animal at the higher levels of training (1st Level Dressage and above) have learned to follow your seat, and will do quite nicely staying under your seat as you move through the patterns and lateral work. If your animal needs additional support, it can come through supportive indications through the reins. To achieve the left and right lead canter, for example, a slight push with your seat and a squeeze/release on the indicating directional rein will tell your animal the correct lead to take. It’s that simple!

Fitting the Side Saddle to your equine:

Determine the type of Side Saddle you will ride. There are three basic types of Side Saddles: English, Western and Vintage (Period saddle). Be sure they are in good repair and balanced correctly. Pick the size that best fits both you and your equine.
Any horse, mule, donkey or pony can be used for Side Saddle provided that they are a calm, suitable mount and that you can find the right Side Saddle to fit properly.
Many off-track Thoroughbreds are extremely athletic and preferred by rider for Dressage, Jumping and Fox-Hunting.
There are three types of Side Saddles that will be determined by use: Near Side, Off Side and Two-Sided.
Riding NEAR SIDE is most common with your legs hung to your left side.
Riding OFFSIDE is where your legs hang to your right is done for personal preference. Whether it is more comfortable due to an injury or the perfect fit, those who ride offside are genetically engineered to do so. It’s like writing with your left hand. Some like to ride offside in the Western Side Saddles because when you carry the reins in your left hand from the curb bit, you will feel more balanced. You should always carry your arm, from your elbow to your hand, parallel to the ground, and your upper arm should be close to your side to maintain your own good posture.
Side Saddle equines that need a warm-up with a male groom will often use a rigged Two-Sided Side Saddles. He would want to ride aside like the lady would do, but he would need to alter his legs position to exercise the animal in a symmetrical and balanced way. Riding astride a Side Saddle is VERY uncomfortable!
Men DO ride Side Saddle! It is often simply a challenge for them.
English Side Saddles are used with a Double Bridle or Pelham Bridles where the reins are carried in a balanced fashion on both sides. You should always have a straight line from your elbow to the bit.
Place the Side Saddle in the middle of your equine’s back such that you are sitting over the equine’s center of gravity…same as regular saddles. Breast collars are optional (do not use breeching with a Side Saddle). Always keep in mind that your rigging keeps the saddle secure on the back of your equine, so the straps should all be snugly adjusted.

Side Saddle Accessories:

Appropriate hats are often fitted with a jockey helmet and chin straps underneath period hats for safety.
Ladies that ride aside will typically wear a Side Saddle “veil netting” covering the hat from the brim and across their face.

Stock ties are worn with the purpose of having something to use as an emergency bandage, or tourniquet on an injured horse, hound or person. The stock pin serves to fasten the bandage. Most ties on the market today are not strong and large enough to use for this purpose.
Wear boots that are appropriate to your “habit,” or apron, which should match the Side Saddle style. Tall or short boots are acceptable as they will most likely be hidden underneath the apron or skirt.
Whips are somewhat numerous and are mostly used on the side where there is no leg pressure to apply.
The costume, or Habit, that you should wear should be appropriate for the style of your saddle.
The whip should match the animal, saddle and the attire. The Gaited Whip is used for gaited animals and the Dressage whip for Dressage animals. All English whips are appropriate for training or hacking, but are not preferred, a black gaited whip or cane is used for the show ring. Most judges prefer NOT to see whips in Pleasure classes. The Hunt Whip should only be used in “Hunter” classes such as “Hunter Under Saddle or Hunter Hack” at a show, or in the field when fox hunting.
Hunt Whips come in three sizes: Gentleman’s, Lady’s and Child’s. Bats are fine to use when schooling in jumping, but not considered correct for Side Saddle classes over fences.

Care & Reconditioning of Side Saddle & Tack:

It is imperative that the leather on a Side Saddle be completely cleaned before applying conditioner, and they should be kept conditioned to avoid mold or mildew that can rot the leather. The same goes for all the tack and equipment.
Keep tack and equipment in good repair.
Use break-away stirrups with Side Saddles.
If you come off a Side Saddle, you will most likely go off the right side or off the back, and it is VERY DIFFICULT to roll when you don’t land like you can when riding astride.
The saddle pad should compliment tack and attire. For English Side Saddles, the typical closely-fitted Dressage English fleece saddle pad will usually fit the best.
Girths include Fitzwilliam single or 3-fold wide girth, Leather 3-fold, Chafe less girth with elastic ends, Humane girth or a cord girth (not suitable for show).

There was a surge of shows in 1994 featuring mules being ridden Side Saddle in Fox Hunting, Parades, Open Horse Show classes, and Mule Shows, and they have continued to grow nationally. Mules proved their worth as Side Saddle mounts, primarily on the East Coast, California and Colorado!

If you think you might be interested in learning to ride aside, contact one of these organizations to find out what people you should contact in your area to help you and others that share your interest. The feeling of elegance and accomplishment is unmatched, especially after so much time spent in blue jeans and mucking boots. Our world could use a little more whimsy and romance to help the modern woman to enjoy her dignity and elegance in this fast-paced world. Hats off to the lovely ladies who ride aside!

There are quite a few a few existing Side Saddle organizations today that are available to those of you who might be interested in taking lessons and participating in shows and award programs. You can check your local area for one near you, or you can contact:

INTERNATIONAL SIDE SADDLE ORGANIZATION

90 Cumberland Avenue
Estell Manor, New Jersey 08319
(609) 476-2976
FAX (609) 476-2977
www.sidesaddle.com
aside1@starband.net

AMERICAN SIDE SADDLE ASSOCIATION

Use the email directory below to email someone directly. We will be in touch with you as soon as possible.

President … Maggie McAllister ……….. asapresident@amsidesaddle.com
Vice- President … Diana Kocunik …………. vicepresident@amsidesaddle.com
Secretary … Andee Vassar ………… secretary@amsidesaddle.com
Treasurer Monica Chapman …………. amsidesaddletreasurer@gmail.com
Librarian & Points Secretary … Vicki Pritchard ………… librarian@amsidesaddle.com
Marketing & Newsletter … Gael Orr …………. marketing@amsidesaddle.com
Membership Chair … ………….. membership@amsidesaddle.com
Webmaster … Audrey Sears ………… webmaster@amsidesaddle.com

Photos in this article have been borrowed from the I.S.S.O. newsletter ASIDE WORLD.

Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE and EQUUS REVISITED at www.luckythreeranchstore.com

October 1 2026

The Ones Who Carried Us

Kyle Davidson Uncategorized 1

April 8 2024

MULE CROSSING: Driving Activities

Kyle Davidson LTR Blog, LTR Blog - Showing, Mule Crossing Driving, lucky three ranch, Meredith Hodges, Mule Crossing 0

By Meredith Hodges

With the introduction of the automobile came decreased interest in horse-drawn vehicles. Tractors replaced equine-driven vehicles in the fields. It seemed as if equines had been put out of a job! But, as with any change, this was only temporary. Modern society still has need of equine participation, especially from donkeys and mules. The well-schooled driving donkey or mule is much safer and more reliable than any horse. The reason for this is the donkey and mules’ natural sensibility and their positive response to verbal communication. Once they have learned the parameters of their job, if treated fairly, they will calmly and diligently go about their business, flicking their ears back and forth toward the driver, always listening for verbal reinforcement of their behavior. In a pinch, they can more often be prevented from “freaking out” with a few calm and reassuring words. Their strength and durability enables them to work longer and harder hours than can a horse and their variety of sizes and colors provides them as suitable driving animals for a number of driving-related activities.

Most often we see driving animals in parades. Although it seems simple enough to drive down a parade route, there are a number of things to consider that can complicate the issue. Parade routes are lined with potential hazards and an overload of outside stimuli. Horses that become spooked have been known to bolt and actually run right through crowds of people. I have yet to hear of a donkey or mule that has done such a thing! Perhaps it is because the donkey or mule will not run into trouble if he can possibly avoid it. He will also be more likely to rely upon his driver for support and direction through the safest route. He will stop if in doubt of a situation when properly trained. Mules and donkeys are familiar with teamwork and will work as a team with their driver. The frightened horse just says, “Forget you!” and leaves!

Driving competitions are becoming more popular than ever these days as a number of different types of driving classes are being made available to contestants. For the really serious competitor, there are pleasure, obstacle, and Reinsmanship classes in which to measure one’s progress in performance.

As the competitor improves, he may move into marathon driving, testing his skills across country and through obstacles (called hazards). The driver may use singles, or teams, depending on his personal preference. The American Driving Society has been more than generous, allowing mules and donkeys to compete in most of their events right along with the horses. For more fun-loving competitors, there are a lot of different driving games, gauged for the ability of the competitors. This allows even the most inexperienced driver some source of enjoyment from which he can derive a sense of accomplishment and excitement.

For those who want to enjoy a nice day in the country with their animals, there are rallies and organized picnic drives. This type of driving is more relaxing, but no less rewarding and satisfying than competitive events. Awards are sometimes given at rallies for coming in closest to the optimum time, but the pace is usually quite leisurely! Your donkey or mule will love the alternative to showing and will enjoy the activities as much as you do.

Mules and donkeys are used in many tourist areas, pulling cabs and carriages of all varieties, taking tourists in a more leisurely fashion through the streets of history and tradition. Couples can romantically celebrate special moments in their relationships with a relaxing ride in a special cab or buggy. The sensible mule or donkey assures a safe and romantic memory that will stay with you for the rest of your life! We have used our mules to pull carriages for weddings and receptions, adding a touch of class and a little tradition to an otherwise fast-paced and chaotic world!

Because of their thoughtful and affectionate nature, donkeys and mules are ideal candidates for handicapped and disabled drive and ride programs. They are not as abruptly spooked as horses, and are therefore less likely to unseat a disabled rider, or run off with a disabled driver. Horses have fared reasonably well in riding programs for the disabled and handicapped, but are not really reliable enough for driving programs of this kind. This is where Longears can excel! Mule and donkey drive and ride programs, such as the Slade Centre at the Donkey Sanctuary in Great Britain, afford disabled and handicapped people the opportunity to enjoy the wonders of nature by offering them more mobility with the assistance of a new “friend” who is gentle and affectionate. These “friends” replace hopelessness with joy and fulfillment, helping to make life worth living!

Driving itself is a wonderful recreation for just about anyone, from the smallest child to the eldest grandmother. Driving donkeys or mules gives you that extra sense of security in an otherwise potentially dangerous situation. Driving a donkey or mule can provide a companion and friend to otherwise lonely and unfulfilled persons, keeping life more positive and enjoyable. Riding equines for enjoyment still requires a certain amount of training and practice. Learning to drive requires a lot less training and practice time for the driver, provided that the animal is well-schooled and obedient. Small farms today still use mules and donkeys for farm work. When they know their job, they do it with ease and sometimes work exclusively on verbal communication. Old farmers speak of their mules with pride and affection. It’s nice to have a “hand” that doesn’t talk back and isn’t afraid of a little hard work! In this fast-paced world, sometimes it’s nice to go a little slower and take in all the beautiful and fulfilling things that life has to offer, like a relaxing drive in the country with your very best friend!

Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE, EQUUS REVISITED and A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.

May 17 2024

MULE CROSSING: Appreciating “John Henry”

Kyle Davidson LTR Blog, Mule Crossing John Henry, Kathleen Conklin, Mule Crossing, Versatility 0

By Meredith Hodges

When fellow Longears Lover, Kathleen Conklin was looking to retire her 10-year-old Belgian/Saddlebred mare, she began her search for the perfect mule. In January of 1996, she narrowed her search to looking for a large mule that would fit her numerous larger carriages. She looked far and wide to find the special individual that could fill the shoes of her mare in riding, driving, fox hunting, showing and Combined Driving. After failing to find a mule that would be large enough and refined enough to suit this purpose, it finally dawned on Kathleen that she had not yet tapped the most obvious market right there in her own neck of the woods…the Amish community.

Kathleen found two different Amish farms in Pennsylvania that were offering many mules for sale, but most of the larger draft-bred mules were being sold as teams. She found none at the first farm that fit her expectations. The second farm had 60 mules for sale but only three were available as single mules. There was a grey, a Belgian and a black mule. Although the others were broke, the black mule was not—he wouldn’t even allow her to stand next to him. But broke or not, this was the mule she wanted!

When the mule was delivered, things didn’t seem right to Kathleen. This one was much too friendly and much easier to handle than the mule she had previously seen. She called the man who sold it to her and told him she had the wrong mule. He simply replied, “Oh, you noticed.” She made him pay for the return shipping and she finally got the mule she truly loved, who she named John Henry. And that was the beginning of a legacy!

John Henry grew to be the epitome of “versatility,” winning the Versatility Hall of Fame Award and subsequent numerous Honor Roll certificates (offered by the American Donkey and Mule Society) for his continuing excellence. John Henry competed under saddle, was successfully used for fox hunting and coon jumping, and excelled in Combined Driving. His exceptional and unique qualities were widely recognized, and he even had his own column in The Brayer Magazine (published by the A.D.M.S.), entitled, “Dear John Henry,” in which he gave sound advice to questions from other mules all over the country.

From 2003 to 2010, Kathleen and John Henry competed in the Commercial Carriage Division at the Walnut Hill Farm Driving Competition in Pittsford, New York, the finest pleasure driving competition in the United States. In the seven years they competed, John Henry was the only mule showing on the grounds, always competing against horses. His accomplishments got mules accepted into the American Driving Society, which made him beyond famous. Spectators flocked to see him compete every year, and he had his own fan club. He was either Champion or Reserve Champion of the Commercial Division a total of six times, showing under “rated” Commercial Driving judges from England. In 2011, just three weeks before he was to once again compete at Walnut Hill, John Henry passed away at the age of 20, a true champion right up to the end.

In early 2014, famed artist and wood carver, Dennis Page, asked my friend, Bonnie Shields (Tennessee mule artist and illustrator of my Jasper the Mule series), about a model for a “rocking mule” that he was going to carve out of wood. She suggested that he might want to model it after a ceramic sculpture she had done of John Henry, and he did just that. The wood-carved rocking mule of John Henry stands 48 inches tall and is just gorgeous! In fact, it is so beautiful that I bought it when it was finished.

I wanted to display the image of John Henry in all his glory, so Kathleen sent me two of his handsome championship ribbons from Walnut Hill Farm days. She also sold me his harness, his personal cooler (with the competition logo and his name on the front) and several pictures of him for the Lucky Three Ranch tribute to her legendary champion mule. I had the ribbons, Kathleen’s favorite picture of John Henry (from Bob Mischka’s mule calendar) and a tribute card framed and mounted on an easel, with the other items displayed behind the rocker.

John Henry was one of a kind and is sorely missed, especially by Kathleen. But she is elated that her beloved mule and his legacy are being honored with his own exhibit here at Loveland Longears Museum and Sculpture Park in Loveland, Colorado. Kathleen and John Henry had a wonderful time together, touching so many lives and showing everyone just how extraordinary a mule can truly be. Thank you, John Henry for opening people’s minds to the superior versatility of the mule and for paving the way for so many other mules to follow in your footsteps toward extraordinary equine achievement!

Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE, EQUUS REVISITED and A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.

September 4 2019

LTR Training Tip #114: Pre Hitch Training

Kyle Davidson LTR Blog Driving, lucky three ranch, Meredith Hodges 0

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August 3 2023

MULE CROSSING: Getting Down with Minis, Part 2

Kyle Davidson LTR Blog, Mule Crossing "Getting Down", lucky three ranch, Meredith Hodges, mini donkeys, Mule Crossing, training 0

By Meredith Hodges

In Part 1 of this article, you learned how to begin your relationship with your miniature equine in a positive and natural way, and how “getting down” to their eye level so they can make eye contact with you discourages striking, jumping on you and other bad behaviors that are common when working with miniature equines. Be sure you have successfully completed the lessons in Part 1 before moving on to the lessons in Part 2 or training may not yield the desired positive results. Also, if possible, it is best to work minis in groups if they are used to being with other equines, as they perform better when they are with their “friends” and it doesn’t hurt to train their friends in the same way.

Let’s begin with something you and your mini will experience on a regular basis: a visit from the farrier. First, lead your mini to the work station (as described in Part 1). When you get to the work station, tie up your mini and sit on the floor with him (as you did in the pen). Now you will be having a “picnic” (as you did in Part 1), but this time you will be in the work station and you will have a guest…the farrier. Before the farrier attempts to pick up the first foot, ask him to sit down beside your mini in front of the shoulder on the left side and offer a handful of oats as a way of introducing himself. Next, while you sit at your mini’s head and offer the oats reward for good behavior, have the farrier begin with the near side (left) front foot and work his way around from front to back, and then from back to front on the other side (right). While the farrier is working, talk calmly and encouragingly to your mini, and as long as he is doing what is asked of him, offer rewards generously. He should yield his feet easily, but if he does not don’t offer the reward until he complies.

Don’t shove your mini when you want him to move over. Rather, give him some oats and use your index finger to tap or poke him on the side of his ribcage. If he doesn’t move over, use your whole hand to give him a slight push, always using a “push and release” movement, which is non-confrontational. You don’t want to keep steadily pushing up against him, because as soon as you give him anything to push against, he will and you could find yourself in a pushing match or, worse, a confrontation with him. As soon as he complies and moves, give him the oats reward and slide your body in next to him to help hold him in position for the farrier as he works with each foot. Don’t be afraid and always stay on the same side as the farrier. If the mini decides to make an abrupt move, he will try to slide around you because equines really don’t like stepping on, or running over, soft, squishy things like our bodies, so if your mini can get out of your way, he will. Even if he was to jump up in the air, he would more than likely jump over or around you, taking the path of least resistance. Trust your mini, stay calm and avoid becoming tense or exhibiting fear and things should go smoothly.

Once your mini is leading well, has accepted the farrier and is ready to investigate obstacles, you can begin to take him for walks and see how many different things you can investigate together. At each obstacle, be polite and tug on the lead rope only until it is taut, then wait for your mini to respond. If he balks and you need to keep hold of his lead rope because of potential danger, just let out the slack on the lead rope and allow him to take a little more time going through the obstacle. If you are negotiating something like ditches or water and your mini balks, lengthen the lead rope to get to the far side of the obstacle and hold tension on the rope until he complies and comes forward over or through the obstacle. If leading two minis and one of them balks, lengthen the balky one’s lead rope and let it lay out on the ground while you take the more compliant mini through the obstacle. Then let go of the first mini’s lead rope and pick up the lead rope of the balky one, holding the tension until he negotiates the obstacle and joins you and the first mini on the other side of the ditch or water.

This approach becomes particularly important when negotiating something like a dock or a bridge where you are not only dealing with an obstacle, but an obstacle that makes you substantially taller than you already appear to your mini. This is another instance when you can “get down” on your mini’s eye level the way you did in the pen and at the work station. Remember to do things in small steps. When you walk onto the surface of the dock or bridge or any other large, flat surface, leave enough room for your mini to come up. When you get to the end of the lead rope, take up the slack and then sit down and offer the reward. Then, once your mini has negotiated the obstacle, give him the oats reward and just have another picnic. If a companion equine is accompanying you, be sure to tie the companion animal in front of the obstacle so your mini can always see him. If you tie him behind, your mini will worry and want to go back instead of forward.

When you are ready to step down off the dock or bridge, it would be unsafe to be lower than your mini, so at this point you should stand up, go to the end of the obstacle and ask him to come forward off the raised obstacle, making sure he has plenty of room to come off the obstacle without you having to move. Stand quietly and keep the lead rope taut as you verbally encourage him and invite him to come down off the bridge. As soon as he jumps down, ask for a halt and reward him for jumping down and stopping right in front of you. (He will learn to negotiate the obstacle more slowly with practice.) Once he has finished negotiating the obstacle and halted and is chewing on his reward, you can then proceed to the next obstacle. Having definite, purposeful and timely pauses will help alleviate anxiety and resistance in your mini.

Be vigilant about when it is safe to get down to his level and when it is better to stay standing. Always opt for the low-level eye contact whenever possible and when you determine that it is safe to do so. Remember, the longer he must go without making eye contact with you, the greater the chance of resistance, but eye contact on his level will give him confidence in your judgment and will help to facilitate a real bond between you. If negotiating an obstacle such as a tractor tire or six tires, just extend the lead rope over the tire or tires, sit on that side, keep the rope taut and proceed as you did with the bridge obstacle.

Allow your mini to come forward and look at the tire, put his nose in the middle of it and, if he wants to, put his front foot up in the air to “feel” the space. If he wants to stand on the tire, that’s all right, too, but remember to keep the rope taut and don’t pull—release pressure as soon as he begins to move. Pulling is a common mistake that people often make, which can easily throw an equine off balance, creating a dangerous situation.

I call this technique “OATS.” (Observe, Approach, Touch and Sigh). It allows your mini time to observe each situation, then approach and touch the obstacle, finally giving a sigh as a signal that he is relaxed and not afraid. Always reward him for his efforts so he can begin to gain confidence and trust in you. By following the OATS technique you are turning your mini’s fear into curiosity, which will serve to keep him calm in future situations.

Part 3 of this article will cover negotiating obstacles with more finesse, lunging and groundwork in harness.

Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE, EQUUS REVISITED and A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.

March 18 2024

MULE CROSSING: Choosing the Right Jack

Kyle Davidson LTR Blog, Mule Crossing Donkey Jacks, lucky three ranch, Meredith Hodges, Mule Crossing 3

By Meredith Hodges

When choosing a jack to breed to your mares and jennets, there are many important factors to consider. Conformation is the most obvious, but size, type, disposition and genetics are equally significant. As a direct result of the donkey’s evolution our choices in jacks are considerably limited these days. In the days when donkeys were widely used as beasts of burden, conformational soundness was an important consideration in their ability to do physical work. Today, the donkey is not as widely used in this manner, becoming more of an owner’s pleasure animal. In some cases, he is simply another pet. As a result, not much care has been taken to preserve his conformational integrity, thus limiting the availability of true breeding stock.

Although the conformation of the ideal jack can only be approximated, you should always try to choose a jack that is as close to the ideal as possible for your breeding programs. (Perpetuating undesirable conformation traits will only compound future breeding problems.) The first conformational consideration is the jack’s overall balance and proportion. His torso should be well connected to the front and rear quarters, with plenty of width and depth from heart girth to the flank, which allows for maximum efficiency of the heart and lungs. The topline from the withers to the tail should be relatively straight, with only a gentle slope from the withers to the croup, and neither excessively long nor short-backed. A longish back is acceptable, provided there is not a lot of distance between the last rib and the point of the hip, as this causes weakness through the loins. The unusually short-backed jack does not have adequate lateral and vertical flexibility in his movement. A rigidly straight back is discouraged, as is a back that sags too drastically in the middle (except in the case of an aged animal).

Proportionately, the jack should not be too narrow in the chest, through the rib cage and in the rear quarters—nor should he be too wide in these areas. These faults in proportion can interfere with his action, causing him to be “pin-toed” (splay-footed) or “pigeon-toed” (toed-in). The pin-toed jack will brush his knees and fetlocks together in deep footing, causing him to be a slow mover, or he may even cross his legs over one another, increasing the possibility of a fall.

The closest approximation to a 45-degree angle in the hips and shoulders is preferred, with an adequate balance of muscle and sinew in all four quarters. One of the most common faults in donkeys today is straight and slight shoulders and hips. The withers and croup should be even across the topline, and the jack with withers slightly higher than the croup is preferred over the opposite, as this could set the animal’s body weight too far on the forehand, making turns and stops more difficult. It could also increase the possibility of falling. The croup should be smooth and round over the rump, with a tail set neither too high nor too low.

The feet and legs of the jack are the foundation of his conformation. They should be straight and true, with flat bone and adequate angles at the shoulders, hips, stifles, and hock and fetlock joints. The foot should be trimmed and shaped to compliment the angles in his joints to maintain the good conformation that should be present in the four quarters of the animal. For example, on a jack with good shoulders, the slope of the pasterns should be parallel to the slope of the shoulders. When dropping a plumb line on the front legs, which should be neither too far forward nor too far underneath him, the plumb line should fall from the point of the withers to the ground, directly at the back of the front legs. When dropping a plumb line on the hind legs, it should fall from the base of the tail to the point of the hock, and straight down the back of the cannon bone to the ground.

As far as a donkey’s hoofs are concerned, the expression, “No foot, no donkey” is literally true. Faults such as buck-kneed, calf-kneed, tied-in at the knee, round bone, short straight pasterns, coon-footed, too-long cannon, sickle hocks, splay-footed, knock-kneed, bowlegged, pigeon-toed, broken forward or backward feet, or too straight through the stifle and hock are all serious faults and should be avoided when breeding. Being slightly cow-hocked behind can be overlooked, as this usually increases maneuverability. The hoof itself should not reflect a ribbed appearance — it should be smooth and inclined to look sleek and oily. Even on the donkey, the hooves should not be contracted, but well-sprung (although less sprung than a mule or horse), and supported with a well-extended, healthy frog. Donkeys have a multi-layered hoof wall that will shed off in the event of mild or even severe trauma to the coronet or hoof wall, so many donkeys exhibit a “peeling” or “scabbing” of the hoof wall. A jack with this damage to the hoof should be inspected carefully to determine the severity of the problem and the extent of possible weakness in the hoof itself. If it is a cosmetic problem, it can often be managed successfully by adding one ounce a day of Mazola corn oil to the diet. If it is a genetic problem, a jack with hoof problems should be avoided when breeding and should probably be castrated.

The head and neck of the ideal jack should be attractive and set-in correctly, giving an overall balanced look to the animal. He should have good length to the ears, neither too far forward nor too far back, so the poll is clearly apparent. His eyes should be set so they give him a maximum field of vision forward, backward and peripherally. The eyes should not be set too high nor too low, which would offset the overall balance of the head. He should have adequate width and fine enough bone in the head, to allow for plenty of space for the brain and internal organs of the scull cavity. The length of his head should compliment the balance of his body and taper to a smaller and delicate muzzle. His jaw should be straight and aligned, showing neither a parrot mouth (under bite), nor be undershot (over bite, or buck toothed). This is critical for feeding and nutrition. The slightly dished-face, straight-faced or Roman-nosed jack should not be ruled out, provided the other criteria are met. The neck should be set in so that it flows easily into the withers and has adequate length for the ability to bend and maintain balance. He should have neither a U-neck nor an excessively crested neck. It should not be too wide, or too narrow, and should tie into the throatlatch in a trim and flexible way.

The basic conformation for the breeding jack should be the same regardless of size, although there are specific considerations with regard to type and use. The jack generally contributes more to the thickness of bone in his offspring, but not necessarily to their height. Therefore, when breeding for saddle mules and donkeys, the more refined-boned Standard or Large Standard jacks are preferred. On the other hand, when breeding for a draft mule or donkey, you would want to preserve more thickness of bone and use a stockier jack, such as a Large Standard or Mammoth. Use the same guidelines when breeding for miniatures; stocky begets stocky and refined begets refined. When breeding for saddle mules, you may want to keep the refinement, so you would use a Standard or Large Standard jack to breed to a saddle horse mare. However, if you wish to have a pack mule that is not overly tall, you might then want to breed a Mammoth jack to a saddle horse mare.

The genetic pool is a very important consideration when breeding. A particular jack may be a beautiful specimen, but, regardless of how lovely and balanced he may be, he may possess genes that produce offspring with many conformation faults. Since donkeys have been so inbred, this can happen more frequently than you might imagine. When choosing a jack to breed to your mares and jennets, it is wise, if possible, to take a look at some of his offspring from different mares and jennets, so you can better assess his stronger traits and determine which traits appear to be pre-potent. If this is not possible, your alternative is to breed him with only the best mare or jennet you own, in order to increase the odds for positive traits to come through in the offspring. Sometimes you can try to compliment the mare with the jack, such as a long-backed mare with a short-backed jack to get a medium-backed mule, but this doesn’t always work. A reputable jack owner should have records to show how and what his jack has produced and be able to attest to the consistency of his jack’s production. Granted, in the past this was virtually impossible, but today we have the American Donkey & Mule Society registry (and other Longears registries), and many conscientious breeders who realize the importance of recording their breeding information, thereby giving us all a better understanding of Longears production. So, don’t be afraid to ask the breeder whatever questions you may have.

Disposition is of the utmost importance when choosing a jack. However, there is a difference between the jack’s natural instincts, his personality and his acquired personal attitudes, so you should learn to distinguish between a natural instinct, a distinctive personality trait and behavior that was the result of improper handling. I have found most donkeys to be quite cooperative and affectionate when patiently and fairly treated, but some can also be more obstinate about things than others. Remember, in addition to the inherited traits of the jack, it is the mare, or jennet, from which the offspring learns most of his behaviors while he is growing up. So learn to make educated choices concerning your breeding stock and, in order to maintain the integrity of the breed, use only jacks with the best conformation for breeding.

Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE, EQUUS REVISITED and A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.

Photo Captions:

1) North Africa 1943 (Library of Congress)

2) Sire-Supreme Little Jack Horner and Meredith Hodges

3) Lucky Three Excalibur

4) Lucky Three Blue Baron

5) Standard Jack, Colorado D.J.

6) Foundation Sire Windy Valley Adam

7) Don Mode driving Foundation Sire Black Bart

August 10 2026

Drive & Ride Show Class

Kyle Davidson LTR Blog lucky three ranch, Meredith Hodges, Show Class 0

The “Drive and Ride” class held at Longears and other equine shows exhibits an equine’s versatility. First, you are asked to drive at the walk, trot and extended trot both directions of the arena and then do a Rein Back in line. Then you are given 3 minutes to change tack and equipment and be judged the same way as a Pleasure Riding class. You can ride and drive either Western or English, but the tack and wardrobe for each segment must be consistent. This is a great way to train your equine and to show spectators the true versatility of your equine. It is also great practice for you to be able to tack and re-tack your equine…and change your attire…all in a matter of 3 minutes! That takes real organization skills that are calculated and consistently repetitive to be able to accomplish in that in such a limited amount of time! It is a fun class to watch as a spectator, but even more fun for exhibitors! Learn more in the various sections under TRAINING at www.luckythreeranch.com.

March 18 2024

MULE CROSSING: Donkey Jacks

Kyle Davidson LT Blog - Breeding, LTR Blog, Mule Crossing breeding, Little Jack Horner, lucky three ranch, Meredith Hodges 0

By Meredith Hodges

A donkey jack can be your best friend or your worst enemy! Because he is a donkey, he possesses all the wonderful characteristics particular to donkeys—intelligence, strength, easy maintenance, suitability for many equine sports and, probably most important, an innate affectionate attitude. You must, however, realize that he is still an intact male, often governed by the hormones in his body. When nature takes over, the jack’s conscious thought is greatly diminished and he can become quite hazardous to your health. The jack’s aggressiveness is often masked by his sedate and affectionate attitude, but it can arise in a split second and do more damage than even a stallion. Usually, there is an awkwardness, or indecisiveness, in an agitated stallion that will allow you time to get out of the way, but the jack reacts strongly, swiftly and right on target, allowing you little or no time for retreat. By keeping a few simple things in mind, you can greatly reduce your chances of injury when handling jacks.

First, try to keep your jack in a comfortable atmosphere. Jacks can be great worriers, particularly about their mares and jennets. Ideally, you should keep the jack well out of sight and smell of the females, but this is not always practical. If he must be near females, make sure your jack has a roomy area, free of refuse and debris, and adequately fenced. The fences should be high enough to discourage his leaning over the top and strong enough to bear his weight on impact. Also, they must be constructed so that there are no protrusions that could cause him injury. If females (or other animals) are present, the jack may run back and forth along the fence and catch his head on anything that is protruding. Hot wires along the inside of a weaker fence will often serve this purpose. However, a hot wire used alone is not sufficient. If your jack becomes frightened, he could run through an electric wire before he even knows that it is there. Giving him a clean, comfortable area where his limits are clearly defined will help him to be a calmer and more manageable animal.

Always make sure your jack’s pen is cleaned daily and that he has free access to clean water, a trace mineral salt block and good grass hay. If he gains too much weight with free choice grass hay, then simply limit his intake to two flakes at each feeding in the morning and evening. He can have a limited amount of oats during one feeding a day (preferably in the evenings), mixed with an appropriate vitamin supplement such as Sho Glo, and one ounce of Mazola corn oil (I suggest this particular brand—other brands of corn oils are not the same) for management of his coat, his feet and his digestive tract regularity. During feeding times, you should check him from top to bottom for any new changes to his body like cuts, bruises, lameness, etc. This is also a good way to reinforce his acceptance of being handled all over and to solidify your relationship with him. This consistent management practice paves the way for good manners in the jack, because he then knows with no uncertainty that you are a true friend and really do care about his well-being.

Many people opt to keep jacks in solitude, but this is not really good for them. Being a natural herd animal, they need social interaction. When they don’t have company nearby, jacks can become depressed (donkeys have actually been known to die from depression—they can stop eating and simply give up). To remedy this, jacks can be pastured or penned next to other animals, as long as the fencing is adequate between them. Of course, you also need to take into consideration the personality types of the animals involved, as well as being careful to make sure they are compatible. This can fulfill their need for companionship and keep them happy in confinement. As long as there are no cycling horse or donkey females around, jacks can be pastured next to mules of both genders. I had my own jack, Little Jack Horner, penned next to our teaser stallion for many years and they actually liked each other! We never had any trouble with them at all.

You can spend more time with your jack by using him for more than just breeding. Animals, like people, always do better when they have a regular job to do that affords them some purpose in life beyond propagation. Some sort of job will give your jack an alternative purpose, which can help to diffuse his obsession with the female. It will also attend to the strength of his core muscles that surround the skeletal system and vital organs and teach him self-discipline. And it affords more time for you to develop your relationship with him, have fun together and to deepen the bond between you, which helps the jack to develop a healthy mental attitude. There are many jack owners who use their jacks for riding and driving, as well as for breeding. This is an excellent and actually the best plan, but if you lack the time or inclination to use your jack this way and wish to use him exclusively for breeding, you should still take some time—at least two or three days a week—to work on halter training and groundwork, such as ground driving, for manageability. Teach your jack to walk, trot, whoa and stand still on the lead. During these sessions, keep a positive and relaxed attitude, with more emphasis on your rapport with him than on his performance. Be his friend so he has something to look forward to besides females and breeding, and he will have a much better attitude overall.

When he is flawless with his leading training, you can get him used to the bridle and a surcingle or lightweight saddle, and then move on to ground driving. Lunging is not as important, since most donkeys do not like to lunge. I suppose they don’t see much purpose in going around in a circle more than once to come back to the same place over and over again. Taking the time to properly train your donkey jack at halter and in the drivelines will enhance his obedience, and will make him more comfortable and relaxed. During the breeding process, it can even speed up his readiness.

When using your jack for breeding, develop a routine that he can count on every time. When you go to the stall or pen to catch the jack, wait for him to come to you at the gate or stall door, and then reward him with oats when he comes to you. Then put on the halter, ask him to take one step backwards, and then reward him again (which is very important to prevent him from running over you and barging through the gate or out the door). If you are going to breed him, the mare should first be prepared. Next, once you are both out the door, ask him to whoa and square up all four feet. Then you can lead him to the breeding area, where you can then tie him to the hitch rail a little ways away from the waiting mare. By being consistent in your manner of going from the stall to the breeding area, the jack will learn not to be pushy and aggressive toward you.

When in the breeding area, your jack must be taught patience and obedience. If the mare is left to stand just out of reach until he is ready to breed, he may consider this a tease and may become anxious and unruly. To clarify your intentions to him, you can take the cloth you used to clean the mare and place it over the hitch rail near your jack’s nose. This way, he can get a good, strong scent of the mare, which will more quickly ready him for breeding and substantially decrease his anxiety time. If he is an indifferent jack, this can actually increase his interest in the female and, in turn, shorten the actual breeding process time. The fact that you brought him the scent allows the jack to believe that it is your decision when to breed and not his and that he must remain obedient. Let him cover the mare only when he is fully ready and make him walk to her in a gentlemanly fashion. If he becomes too aggressive and starts to drag you just return him to his place on the hitch rail, hold him there for a minute, reward him when he stands still and then re-approach the mare.

Just to be on the safe side with your jack while breeding, use either a muzzle or a dropped noseband (snugly fit low on his nose)—this will prevent biting injuries to you or to the mare. When he is finished, make him stand quietly behind the mare while you rinse him off. Allow him that last sniff to the mare’s behind, and then take him back to his stall (or pen), ask him to stand still while you remove the halter and then let him go. That last sniff appears to be an assertion of his act and of his manhood. If you try to lead him away before he sniffs, he might not come with you and he might become even more aggressive toward the mare. Remember to do things with your jack in a routine way, and always with safety in mind—this will allow him to relax and use the manners he has learned. NOTE: Women who are menstruating should never handle jacks or stallions during that particular time, since the scent can trigger aggressive and dangerous behaviors in these animals.

When you are around a jack, you must always be alert and know what he is doing at all times. A jack can be the most adorable, loveable, obedient guy in the world, but you must realize that his natural instincts can arise at any time and, although he may not do it intentionally, he can severely hurt you just the same. And when observing a jack from the other side of the fence, always remember that he can come over the top of that fence, teeth bared, so don’t ever turn your back to him or become complacent around him!

Lastly, when putting on or taking off any of his headgear, watch your fingers—when a jack knows the bit is coming, he often opens his jaws to meet it (with anticipation of the bit on a bridle), and your fingers can easily get in the way. Rather than a standard lead rope, it is advisable to use a lead shank with stallions and jacks for the best control. However, I discourage running the chain of a lead shank either through the mouth or over the nose. The correct position for a lead shank is under the jaw. Run the end of the chain through the ring on the near side of the halter noseband, then under the jaw, then through the ring on the opposite side of the noseband, and then clip it to the ring at the throatlatch on the right side of his face. This gives you enough leverage to control him without the halter twisting on his face. If you have spent plenty of time and done your homework during his leading lessons, your jack will learn to be obedient on the lead shank, even during breeding.

Retired jacks still need regular attention and proper maintenance to stay healthy into their senior years. Donkeys that do not receive good core muscle maintenance throughout their lives will often begin to sag drastically in the spine as they age. Their gait then becomes stilted, because their balance and strength are severely compromised. They can no longer track properly while moving or square up correctly when at rest. This can lead to irregular calcification in the joints, depression because they don’t feel well and premature health problems. On the other hand, the jack who has had a consistent and healthy management and training routine will enjoy longevity. If you keep these basic management and safety factors in mind, you and your jack can have a long, happy and mutually rewarding relationship!

Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE, VIDEOS #9 & #10 and A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.

April 29 2024

MULE CROSSING: Benefits of Postural Core Strength Training

Kyle Davidson LTR Blog, Mule Crossing Core Training, Donkey training, elbow pull, equine training, lucky three ranch, Lucky Three Sundowner, Lunging, Meredith Hodges, Mule Crossing, mule training 0

By Meredith Hodges

Most equines can be taught to carry a rider in a relatively short time. However, just because they are compliant doesn’t mean their body is adequately prepared for what they will be asked to do and that they are truly mentally engaged in your partnership. We can affect our equine’s manners and teach them to do certain movements and in most cases, we will get the response that we want…at least for the moment. Most of us grow up thinking that getting the animal to accept a rider is a reasonable goal and we are thrilled when they quickly comply. When I was first training equines, I even thought that to spare them the weight of the rider when they were younger and that it would be more beneficial to drive them first as this seemed less stressful for them. Of course, I was then unaware of the multitude of tiny details that were escaping my attention due to my limited education. I had a lot to learn.

Because my equines reacted so well during training, I had no reason to believe that there was anything wrong with my approach until I began showing them. I started to experience resistant behaviors in my animals that I promptly attributed to simple disobedience. I had no reason to believe that I wasn’t being kind and patient until I met my dressage instructor, Melinda Weatherford. I soon learned that complaining about Sundowner’s negative response to his dressage lessons and blaming HIM was not going to yield any shortcuts to our success. The day she showed up with a big button on her lapel that said, “No Whining” was the end of my complaining and impatience, and the beginning of my becoming truly focused on the tasks at hand. I learned that riding through (and often repeating) mistakes did not pose any real solutions to our problems. I attended numerous clinics from all sorts of notable professionals and we improved slowly, but a lot of the problems were still present. Sundowner would still bolt and run when things got a bit awkward, but he eventually stopped bolting once I changed my attitude and approach, and when he was secure in his core strength in good equine posture.

I thought about what my grandmother had told me years ago about being polite and considerate with everything I did. Good manners were everything to her and I thought I was using good manners. I soon found that good manners were not the only important element of communication. Empathy was another important consideration…to put oneself in the other “person’s” shoes, and that could be attributed to animals as well. So, I began to ask myself how it would feel to me if I was approached and treated the way I was treating my equines. My first epiphany was during grooming. It occurred to me that grooming tools, like a shedding blade, might not feel very good unless I was careful about the way I used it. Body clipping was much more tolerable for them if I did the hard-to-get places first and saved the general body for last. Standing for long periods of time certainly did not yield a calm, compliant attitude when the more tedious places were left until last. After standing for an hour or more, the animal got antsy when I was trying to do more detailed work around the legs, head, flanks and ears after the body; so I changed the order. Generally speaking, I slowed my pace and eliminated any abrupt movements on my part to give the equine adequate time to assess what I would do next and approached each task very CAREFULLY. The results were amazing! I could now groom, clip bridle paths and fly spray everyone with no halters, even in their turnout areas as a herd. They were all beginning to really trust me.

There was still one more thing my grandmother had said that echoed in my brain, “You are going to be a sorry old woman if you do not learn to stand up straight and move in good posture!” Good posture is not something that we are born with. It is something that must be learned and practiced repetitiously so that it becomes habitual for it to really contribute to your overall health. Good posture begins at the core, “the innermost, essential part of anything.” In a human being, it lies behind the belly button amongst the vital organs and surrounded by the skeletal frame. In a biped, upon signals from the brain, energy impulses run from the core and up from the waist, and simultaneously down through the lower body and legs. The core of an equine is at the center of balance in the torso. Similar to bipeds, they need the energy to run freely along the hindquarters and down through the hind legs to create a solid foundation from which to allow the energy in front to rise into suspension to get the most efficient movement. When their weight is shifted too much onto the front end, their ability to carry a rider efficiently and correctly is compromised. To achieve correct energy flow and efficient movement, the animal’s internal supportive structures need to be conditioned in a symmetrical way around the skeletal frame. People can do this by learning to walk with a book on their head and with Pilates exercises, but how can we affect this same kind of conditioning in a quadruped?

The first issue I noticed was with leading our animals. When we lead our animals with the lead rope in the right hand, we drop our shoulder and are no longer in good posture. When we walk, our hand moves ever so slightly from left to right as we walk; we inadvertently move the equine’s head back and forth. They balance with their head and neck. Thus, we are forcing them off balance with every step that we take. Since movement builds muscle, they are being asymmetrically conditioned internally and externally with every step we take together. In order to correct this, we must allow the animal to be totally in control of his own body as we walk together. We are cultivating proprioception or “body awareness.”

During the time you do the core strength leading exercises, you should NOT ride the animal as this will inhibit the success of these preliminary exercises. It will not result in the same symmetrical muscle conditioning, habitual behavior and new way of moving. For the best results, lessons need to be routine and done in good posture from the time you take your equine from the pen until the time you put him away. Hold the lead rope in your LEFT hand, keeping slack in the lead rope. Keep his head at your shoulder, match your steps with his front legs, point in the direction of travel with your right hand and look where you are going. Carry his reward of oats in a fanny pack around your waist; he’s not likely to bolt if he knows his reward is right there in the fanny pack.

Plan to move in straight lines and do gradual turns that encourage him to stay erect and bend through his rib cage, keeping an even distribution of weight through all four feet. Square him up with equal weight over all four feet EVERY TIME you stop and reward him with oats from your fanny pack. Then wait patiently for him to finish chewing. We are building NEW habits in the equine’s way of moving and the only way that can change is through routine, consistency in the routine and correctness in the execution of the exercises. Since this requires that you be in good posture as well, you will also reap the benefits from this regimen. Along with feeding correctly (explained on my website at www.luckythreeranch.com), these exercises will help equines to drop fat rolls and begin to develop the top line and abdominal strength in good posture. The spine will then be adequately supported to easily accept a rider. He will be better able to stand still as you pull on the saddle horn to mount.

When the body is in good posture, all internal organs can function properly and the skeletal frame will be supported correctly throughout his entire body. This will greatly minimize joint problems, arthritis and other anomalies that come from asymmetrical development and compromises in the body. Just as our children need routine, ongoing learning and the right kind of exercise while they are growing up, so do equines. They need boundaries for their behavior clearly outlined to minimize anxious behaviors and inappropriate behavior. The exercises that you do together need to build strength and coordination in good equine posture. The time spent together during leading training and going forward, slowly builds a good solid relationship with your equine and fosters his confidence and trust in you. He will know it is you who actually helps him to feel physically much better than he ever has.

Core muscle strength and balance must be done through correct leading exercises on flat ground. Coordination can be added to his overall carriage with the addition of negotiating obstacles on the lead rope done the same way. Once familiar with the obstacles, you will need to break them down into very small segments where the equine is asked to randomly halt squarely every couple of steps through the obstacle. You can tell when you have successfully achieved core strength in good balance, when your equine will perform accurately with the lead rope slung over his neck. He will stay at your shoulder, respond to hand signals and body language only and does what is expected perfectly. A carefully planned routine coupled with an appropriate feeding program is critical to your equine’s healthy development.

The task at the leading stage is not only to teach them to follow, but to have your equine follow with his head at your shoulder as you define straight lines and gradual arcs that will condition his body symmetrically on all sides of the skeletal frame. This planned course of action also begins to develop a secure bond between you. Mirror the steps of his front legs as you go through the all movements keeping your own body erect and in good posture. Always look in the direction of travel and ask him to square up with equal weight over all four feet every time he stops and reward him. This kind of leading training develops strength and balance in the equine body at the deepest level so strengthened muscles will hold the bones, tendons, ligaments and even cartilage in correct alignment. Equines that are not in correct equine posture will have issues involving organs, joints, hooves and soft tissue trauma. This is why it is so important to spend plenty of time perfecting your techniques every time you lead your equine.

The equine then needs to build muscle so he can sustain his balance on the circle without the rider before he will be able to balance with a rider. An equine that has not had time in the round pen to establish strength, coordination and balance on the circle, with the help of our postural restraint called the “Elbow Pull,” will have difficulty as he will be pulled off balance with even the slightest pressure. He will most likely raise his head, hollow his back and lean like a motorcycle into the turns. When first introduced to the “Elbow Pull,” his first lesson in the round pen should only be done at the walk to teach him to give to its pressure, arch his back and stretch his spine while tightening his abs. If you ask for trot and he resists against the “Elbow Pull,” just go back to the walk until he can consistently sustain this good posture while the “Elbow Pull” stays loose. He can gain speed and difficulty as his proficiency increases.

Loss of balance will cause stress, and even panic that can result in him pulling the lead rope, lunge line or reins under saddle right out of your hands and running off. This is not disobedience, just fear from a loss of balance and it should not be punished, just ignored and then calmly go back to work. The animal that has had core strength built through leading exercises, lunging on the circle and ground driving in the “Elbow Pull” before riding, will not exhibit these seemingly disobedient behaviors. Lunging will begin to develop hard muscle over the core muscles and internal supportive structures you have spent so many months strengthening during leading training exercises. It will further enhance your equine’s ability to perform and stay balanced in action, and play patterns in turnout will begin to change dramatically as this becomes his habitual way of going. Be sure to be consistent with verbal commands during all these beginning stages as they set the stage for better communication and exceptional performance later. Although you need to spend more time in his beginning training than you might want to, this will also add to your equine’s longevity and use-life by as much as 5-10 years. The equine athlete that has a foundation of core strength in good equine posture, whether used for pleasure or show, will be a much more capable and safe performer than one that has not, and he will always be grateful to YOU for his comfort.

Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE and EQUUS REVISITED at www.luckythreeranchstore.com

May 28 2024

MULE CROSSING: Lucky Three Mae Bea C. T.

Kyle Davidson LTR Blog, Mule Crossing Mae Bea C.T., Meredith Hodges, Mule Crossing 0

By Meredith Hodges

Bea was the epitome of good manners and propriety, and is therefore allowed in the house! She has been known to help with the dusting, but she also enjoys a good game of cards or a hearty round of eight ball.

She has a little trouble with the pool cues, but her nose will sometimes suffice. She is a little leery, however. Chalk on one’s nose can be a little humiliating! Especially to a perfectionist!

Although Bea isn’t particularly fond of football, she does love the Broncos like any true Coloradoan. Nothing was more exciting than when the Broncos won the Super Bowl!

The owner of the Embassy Suites hotel in Fort Collins, Colorado made a bet with one of his employees that the Green Bay Packers would win the Super Bowl that year. If he was right, the employee would have to sit outside the hotel for a whole day on a toilet seat in his boxers. If the Broncos won, the owner would have to paint his face orange and blue and ride a mule all the way around the hotel. Well, guess who won and, guess who the mule was?! Yes, it was our own Lucky Three MaeBea C.T.!

Bea, dressed to the nines in Bronco gear and sporting a Bronco flag, carried the humbled Green Bay Packer fan and hotel owner proudly around the hotel while reporters scrambled asking questions and taking pictures. Later that day, she was on the five o’clock news in all her glory!

Bea was a natural born movie star! The cast always loved to work with her because she was always so willing and cooperative. A day of shooting can be quite exhausting, but Bea never was one that needed more than one or two takes. You told her what to do and she just did it. She put her heart and soul into everything she did and her expressions and actions were always appropriate. She helped me to produce three hardbound books, three manuals, eleven training videos and three documentaries and over fifty half-hour programs for television. Our website is now loaded with Training Tips, Video On Demand and access to our YouTube Channel, Facebook and Twitter posts, all based on the knowledge that I gleaned from this unique and amazing partner.

Although they never finished the movie, DIX Country Pictures chose Beaas Wadi’s understudy from hundreds of applicants.

She did a photo shoot in which she appears on the Colombian Relief poster with Juan Valdez! While we were shooting, it was hard to keep a straight face. Here we were in the middle of a grassy pasture, asking Beato put on her best sad face… without eating the grass! Of course, in true form, she did as we asked, but her facial expressions kept us in stitches!

In 1998, we did a shoot with the Discovery Channel and Bea can be seen as the mule in their production of “The Ultimate Horse.” What a gal!

Bishop Mule Days is always fun and exciting, but one of the things Bealiked the most was to be in the Bishop Mule Days Drill Team. She spent more than 10 years on the team and worked her way into the coveted leader position. Our drill instructor, “Sarge” was tough, but so was Bea!

One year, during drill team practice at the gallop with 30 other mules, we were doing the frightening “Crossfire” when her split-ear bridle came off and fell to her chest. I hollered at “Sarge,” but she wasn’t the least bit sympathetic and said, “Just keep going!” Well, Bea finished the entire drill without her bridle and never missed a lick!

Another time, Diane Hunter was riding her in the drill team when she got into some really deep dirt and tripped and fell right on top of Diane and the flag. I saw what happened and saw Diane pinned underneath Bea’s body. Everybody stopped cold and I hollered at Bea to stay still which she did. “Sarge” and I ran over to assess the situation and once we got to Diane and figured out that it was OK for the mule to get up, we told Bea to get up and she did…very carefully. “Sarge” turned to Diane and said, “You know, you owe your life to that mule. Any other mule would have got right up and probably would have kicked your head in!”

Everyone loves a parade and Bea was no exception! She competed in numerous costume classes and parades, but dressing up for the holidays was her favorite. She placed first in many a parade and had no problem with any theme you might want to try.

She loved to wear her Santa hat at Christmas time and she made a pretty scary wicked witch on Halloween!

Bea participated in the American Donkey & Mule Society entry in the 1988 Tournament of Roses Parade ridden by Gary Hodges in English attire along with her two stable mates, Lucky Three Sundowner ridden Dressage by me (Meredith Hodges) and Lucky Three Ciji ridden by Diane Hunter in Fox Hunting attire.

Bea may be a perfectionist, but she was certainly not a prude. She was always willing to try anything you might ask. At home, Bea worked hard checking fences, moving cattle and much more.

Early in the fall one year, two cowboys asked me if I wanted to help them move some cattle down from the high country and asked if I thought my mule could do it. I nodded confidently and we were off. We drove those cattle up and down the rocky terrain through thickly wooded trees, shrubs and bushes. We were headed up one hill behind the cattle and the two cowboys when we came upon a three foot diameter tree that had fallen across our path. The cattle dove into the underbrush on either side of the tree, the cowboys slid to an abrupt halt and Bea came right up the middle, jumped the tree and stayed on the heels of those cattle the entire way! No one was more surprised than those two cowboys, except maybe their horses!

The Northern Colorado Horse Trials cross-country phase was held at Lory State Park in Fort Collins, Colorado. Each year, our club is responsible for repairing and setting up new jumps on the course. The only hitch is that there are no motorized vehicles allowed in the park. We had dozens of heavy telephone poles to move in order to do our job. Of course, the event horses weren’t up to the job, but Bea certainly was! She pitched in and dragged those poles to their new locations and helped build and repair the jumps. Then, a couple of weeks later, she came back and competed to second place in the competition itself! Talk about versatility!

Bea loved to jump! It took Dressage to get her elevated in front enough to be proficient at jumping, but once we got her there, she cleared fences without batting an eyelash. She always took the jumps right over the center and never expended any more energy than necessary to clear the fence in beautiful form.

She competed in the Bishop Mule Days jumping classes for almost a decade coming in second only to the infamous pair, Lou Moore-Jacobsen and Empress Josephine. One year, she actually took first against Empress Josephine when she was penalized for clipping a rail in the last go round. Lou and Josephine knew from then on, they could not make even the smallest error against Bea or the competition would be lost.

Her shortened frame allowed her to make sharp turns and still clear the fences in timed classes where she would ordinarily be at a disadvantage against taller mules.

Everything Bea did with the bridle, she would do without the bridle and jumping was no exception. She did bridleless courses at home and in exhibition. In one exhibition, she did a Dressage and bridleless jumping exhibition to music performed by the Denver Symphony Orchestra as a tribute to our troops during Desert Storm.

Bea was the eternal perfectionist and only clipped two rails in her entire jumping career. She was horrified when it nicked her freshly polished hooves!

In 1986, Bea and I began lessons with instructor/trainer Melinda Weatherford in Dressage. The same year, I went to the United States Dressage Federation Convention and introduced them to the idea of allowing mules such as Bea to compete in dressage schooling shows and competitions. There were some discrepancies in the rules, but they finally decided to allow mules in lower levels at schooling shows with the discretion of the individual show committees. This was a major breakthrough for mules in equine society!

A few years later, she was instrumental in helping to get dressage classes added to Bishop Mule Days which has in more recent years become quite popular and a wonderful showcase to demonstrate how very well trained these mules can actually be.

She has shown dressage in all sorts of different disciplines: Dressage Shows, Dressage Schooling Shows, Two-Phase Combined Training Shows, Three-Phase Combined Training Shows and in Two-Phase Combined Driving Shows. Her scores were always high and she was always in the ribbons right from the start. The most remarkable thing about the training in Dressage was how it enhanced her driving skills so drastically that she won the first, second and the only two Two-Phase Driving Shows she had ever entered. People were always skeptical to start, and the first to applaud her performances after they saw her! The most prevalent comment during the ribbons ceremonies was, “My God! It’s a mule!”

For a decade, Bea was shown in numerous classes by my daughter, Dena Hodges from the age of six to sixteen. They showed together in Western Pleasure, English Pleasure, Driving, Mule Jumping, and Two-Phase Combined Training shows. They were always in the ribbons and most often first or second in their class.

In later years, she served as a mount for my two stepchildren (six years and ten years) on mountain trail rides, during lessons, and over jumps at the ranch. It was almost comical to see how carefully she would go over the 18” jumps with a child on her back so as not to unseat them!

When we were in Salt Lake City, Utah showing, my nieces and nephews who lived in Alpine came to see her and were thrilled to be able to take a ride around the fairgrounds with their cousin, my daughter, Dena on Bea. As usual, Bea was infinitely careful and protective of the children.

Bea was everyone’s favorite mule to ride. She carried amateur riders into the ribbons in numerous shows as well as being a schooling mule for students during riding lessons for all ages and abilities here at the Lucky Three Ranch.

Her kind and obedient manner made her a truly safe mount. She was always aware of her riders’ abilities and helped them any way she could to stay on board and ride effectively. With her help, as an instructor, I am more easily able to assess the ability of the students and thereby, better able to teach at appropriate levels. She was truly a remarkable individual!

Driving was always one of Bea’s strengths. I remember when I broke her to drive. I didn’t really know what I was doing. She took to the harness well, ground drove along side of the cart and didn’t seemed to be bothered by any of it, so within three days, I hitched her to the cart and proceeded to lead her out to the pasture where we would have more room. We were going around a 90-degree turn as I was leading her, hitched to the cart, when one of the wheels caught on the fence. She did a quick little scoot for a step or two which only caused the cart to flip over. She wound up with on of the shafts over her head and the other between her front legs. She stopped cold and allowed me to right the cart and get her untangled. Then we went out to the pasture and had our first drive with me in the cart with no further incidents. No big deal!

She was a driving star! She loved it and won nearly every driving class she ever entered. She competed in numerous driving related events. In breed shows, she competed in Pleasure Driving, Drive & Ride, Gambler’s Choice and Obstacle Driving. She went on to win at the only 2 Two-Phase Driving shows she’d ever entered, showing in Dressage Driving and the Cones Scurry (accumulated points) against…YES, horses again!

She schooled numerous students in driving and was so good with her verbal commands that if I let a student drive and they went dangerously to the left and I said, “Gee,” she would ignore the student and do what I asked to keep things safe. What a mule!

Bea was always so steady that she was the perfect Side Saddle mount. She competed in Side Saddle at numerous shows and won many of those classes. She competed in Side Saddle at the National Western Stock Show with several different riders, but always placed in the top three regardless of who was riding her.

Bea gave many exhibitions in Side Saddle at various fairs and events, always impressive to the people who were fortunate enough to be there.

In the 1990s, Bea was part of the Bishop Mule Days ladies’ Side Saddle Quadrille that showed in the parade and Grand Entry. She was ridden by a total stranger of limited ability and got her safely through the event. Beahad won herself yet another devoted fan!

In 1993, I rode her Side Saddle in the Inaugural parade in Washington D.C. It was a grueling 24 hours, standing around waiting to go in very cold weather and in the midst of more “mule eaters” than you could count. Bea seemed to take exception to the 50-foot Elvis Presley float, but otherwise handled the whole situation with her usual grace and dignity. Bea must have caught Clinton’s eye as she strolled elegantly past the viewing area because he turned away from the man he was speaking to and gave her a hearty thumbs up! We responded in kind and in her usual style, Bea smiled broadly!

Western Pleasure was fairly easy for Bea because her stride was so short, but when it came time to try her hand at English performance, this was a definite disadvantage. She had a rather short neck which made it difficult for collection, and her downhill build made it hard for her to lengthen her stride. But again, Bea gave her very best and cooperated when we lightly weighted her front legs to encourage some reach. In nine months, she had increased her length of stride by 18 inches!

She was on her way to a career in English events. We began enhancing her English performance with Dressage in 1986. She continued to improve, winning numerous English flat classes and always placing in the top five.

She competed against horses in a few Western classes and did well, but she really began to beat them consistently in the English classes. Mule shows alone could never offer Bea enough of a challenge, so competing against horses offered her the opportunity to push herself farther. And she did, to the disgust of many a horse person!

Bea was always an impeccable trail mule both in the show and on the trail. She did not always show in a lot of Trail classes because she showed so many other classes, but her technique was careful and deliberate. She would always wait for the cues from her rider and respond accordingly.

Trail experience for her was the simple enjoyment of many rides in the treacherous Rocky Mountains. I remember a specific time we went up a trail that was particularly narrow and steep. She was leading four people on horseback, when the trail disappeared into a rock slide. She was trapped on the narrowest part of the trail with four horses behind her. She couldn’t turn around and she couldn’t back up. After assessing the situation, I asked her to do a 180-degree turn on the haunches and swing her front legs over the 100-foot ledge to get turned around. She did as I asked and got us through that compromising situation with the finesse of a ballet dancer! The people on the horses were nothing short of amazed! When we went trail riding, or down the road, everyone wanted to ride Bea!

Bea began her show career as a Driving and Western Pleasure/Trail mule. She showed heavily in numerous Western classes over several years from 1984 to 1989 always placing in the top five.

She competed in numerous Western classes: Western Pleasure, Youth Western Pleasure, Trail, Western Riding, Reining, and a combination Trail/Reining class called Ranch Riding. She had several different riders over the years and was always willing to give her best for anyone who rode her.

Her accomplishments were so extensive that it would be impractical to list them all. In addition to showing Western, she did Western exhibitions at various local events and was the subject of many a newspaper or magazine article throughout her career.

Bea began her show career in Colorado in 1982 showing at halter as a two year old. She then showed successfully at Bishop Mule Days at Halter in 1985 and placed second in one of their largest halter classes for adult mules. The same year, she showed her expertise in Driving by placing first in the Mule Driving class. She continued to be competitive with world class competition in driving at Bishop taking firsts and seconds for numerous consecutive years in Mule Driving and Drive & Ride.

She then went on to show in Western Pleasure, English Pleasure, Hunter hack, Hunter Under Saddle, Jumping, and Side Saddle at Bishop and in other shows across the country, winning firsts and seconds in Mule Jumping and Side Saddle classes. Her smaller stature seemed to keep her out of the ribbons in the English flat classes, but her performance was always impeccable.

She continued to compete for more than a decade in Driving, Drive & Ride, Mule Jumping, always in the top 3 places. Although these were her strongest classes, Bea was always above average in any class in which she competed. Often, she would do 13 classes a day in various shows without complaint. What a trooper! She was inducted into the Bishop Mule Days Hall of Fame in 2006 and passed away at the age of 33 years in 2015. She was one of those truly MAGNIFICENT mules

Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE and EQUUS REVISITED at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.

January 30 2024

MULE CROSSING: Why Mules Are Exceptional

Kyle Davidson LTR Blog, LTR Blog - General Interest, Mule Crossing article, donkey behavior, Meredith Hodges, Mule Crossing 3

By Meredith Hodges

Across the United States and around the world, as mules are given more and more opportunities to perform in many diverse situations, they are exhibiting their exceptional beauty, athletic ability, endurance and intelligence. There are definite physical and psychological reasons for these outstanding abilities. It has been proven that the mule not only inherits the mare’s beauty, but is also more athletic than the mare out of which he came. The mule is an exceptional hybrid not only because he inherits these qualities from his dam, the mare, but he also inherits the best qualities from his sire, the jack who is responsible for his muscle structure, thickness of bone, strength and intelligence.

The muscle structure of a mule is noticeably different than that of a horse. His body is covered with masses of long, smooth muscle whereas the horse has more differentiated bulk muscle masses.

The most apparent example of this difference is seen in the chest of the mule. The horse’s chest has two distinct muscle groups, which creates a very distinctive line of separation in the middle of his chest. However, the mule’s chest is composed of one wide muscle mass that resembles a turkey’s breast, which greatly enhances the mobility of the front quarters. Another example is found in the mule’s hindquarters, where the long, wide and smooth muscles enable the mule to kick forward, backwards and sideways—he can even scratch the top of his head with a hind foot if he wants to! Mules are also quite capable of climbing under, over and through most kinds of fencing. Restraints that are used with horses often do not work with mules because of their astounding ability to free themselves from annoying circumstances with their strong, quick and agile movements. Because the hindquarters of the horse possess bulkier muscle masses, the horse does not have this incredible range of motion. The difference in muscular structure is similar to that of a ballet dancer versus that of a weight lifter—the ballet dancer’s longer, smoother muscles are more conducive to elasticity and agility.

In addition to this physical structure, which allows him more diverse range of movement, the mule also inherits from his sire (the donkey jack) the strength to tolerate prolonged and strenuous use of his muscles. One need only try to budge an unwilling donkey to realize his incredible strength! Donkeys traditionally possess an unbelievable vigor, and this vigor is passed on to the mule, adding to his superiority over the horse in strength and endurance. The donkey jack also contributes to the superior, tough hooves of the mule and a unique resistance to parasites and disease. Throughout their long history, the donkey’s natural ability to survive and thrive in habitats both desolate and unyielding guarantees that donkeys and their mule offspring are more sure-footed than other equines and masters of self-preservation.

Donkeys have long been referred to as “stubborn,” but this is a false and unjust perception. It is not stubbornness that causes an overloaded donkey to stop dead in his tracks to rest his body, but rather common sense and a strong desire for self-preservation. After all, would a sensible human being deliberately pack more than he could comfortably carry, and then continue a hike until he drops from heat and exhaustion? No. Would his refusal to do so be considered as being “stubborn?” Certainly not—it’s just common sense. The same common sense should be applied when understanding a mule or donkey’s behavior—and this holds true in any potentially dangerous situation a donkey may face. For example, when crossing a body of water, the donkey does not possess a human’s acute visual depth perception. Therefore, when he refuses to step into water that seems perfectly safe to us, it is because his depth perception is telling him to use caution and to take his time in evaluating the situation before he proceeds. His behavior is determined by the way he is asked to perform a task and by his concern for his welfare and safety.

As a rule, donkeys are equipped with the innate intelligence to sense that humans are not always concerned with what is really best for them, yet they are still willing to gives us the opportunity to convince them otherwise. Donkeys also have a natural social attraction to humans and, when treated with patience, kindness and understanding, they learn to trust and obey. On the other hand, if they are treated with pain and abuse, they are not likely to comply and can become very dangerous to handle. Mules and donkeys have an honest way of responding to our demands, so if your mule or donkey is not complying with your request, you need to review the clarity of how you are communicating your desire and adjust your approach accordingly. The intelligence of the donkey is no accident.

When a male donkey, with his traits of superior intelligence, strength and muscle structure is bred to a female horse with a calm disposition, good conformation and athletic ability, the result is an exceptional and incredibly beautiful animal—the MULE!

All of us here at Lucky Three Ranch would like to wish longears everywhere and those who love them a very happy Mule Appreciation Day in the fall! October 26th has been popularly designated as National Mule Appreciation Day, but anyone who’s ever been lucky enough to nuzzle a muzzle knows that these magnificent, gentle, bright, honest, upbeat, funny, patient and loyal friends need our appreciation and guardianship not just once a year but every day. Let’s spread the word whenever we can—mules and donkeys are truly amazing!

Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE and EQUUS REVISITED at www.luckythreeranchstore.com

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January 30 2024

MULE TALK! PODCAST: Why Mules are Exceptional

Kyle Davidson LTR Blog, Mule Talk Podcast Cindy Roberts, Meredith Hodges, Mule Talk!, Mules are Exceptional 0

Why Mules are Exceptional –

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Or follow along. Read the transcript.

Learn more on Mule Talk podcast.

For more training info: www.LuckyThreeRanch.Com and click on the Training tab.

Mule Talk is an Every Cowgirl’s Dream production – www.EveryCowgirlsDream.Com

January 11 2024

MULE CROSSING: Establishing Management Practices for N.I. (Neonatal Isoerythrolisis)

Kyle Davidson LTR Blog, Mule Crossing lucky three ranch, Management Practices for N.I., Meredith Hodges, Neonatal Isoerythrolisis 0

By Meredith Hodges

Establish a regular routine for feeding and management to avoid stressing pregnant mares and equines in general. Make your routine predictable.

Mules are cheaper to keep than horses. They are more durable animals and are more resistant to parasites and disease. They require less feed and lower protein to maintain good health. They are intelligent in potentially dangerous situations and will avoid harm to themselves. They require less hoof care than horses in many instances. Under reasonable conditions, trims are sufficient. Shoes are not necessarily needed. But as tough as they may be, they still need quality care and management.

Your equine depends upon you for his safety and well-being. The best feed in the world won’t keep him in good health if you neglect other important things such as vaccinations and worming. It’s up to you to create a program to prevent disease and control parasites. Cleanliness is very important. Make sure feed boxes are clean and manure is removed from stalls and paddocks. Do not feed hay or grain on the floor or anywhere it may become contaminated with manure. Similarly, small, heavily used pastures tend to build up a heavy parasite load. Pastures should be rotated and harrowed as frequently as possible to break the life cycle of the parasites. We never graze our equines on the fields we use for harvesting hay.

Internal parasites are the most common danger to the health and well-being of your equine.

Consult with your veterinarian to set up a parasite prevention and control program. At the Lucky Three Ranch, we worm every eight weeks in January, March, May, July and September with Ivermectin, and then break the cycle with Strongid in November.

Always keep an eye out for anything that might injure your equine, and remove or repair it. Assemble your own equine first aid kit, and with help from your veterinarian, learn the proper use of each item in the kit. Be prepared to handle any situation before the vet arrives.

When signs of infectious disease appear, isolate infected animals promptly and call your veterinarian right away.

Training and handling of all your equines should focus on good manners and consistency in leading them all the time so they will be well-behaved when being handled by a professional. For safety’s sake, a handler should always be present when a professional comes to do his job. It is not his responsibility to manage the behavior of the equine. Being consistent and calm with your equines will make professional visit much easier.

Many veterinarians and farriers refuse to work on mules. Some are slaves to the old wives’ tales about mules being stubborn, ornery and dangerous, and some are subject to owners who cannot manage their own animals. The professionals that primarily studied with horses are more apt to be tolerant of a misbehaving horse than of a misbehaving mule. They have a better idea of what to expect and how to deal with it.

Veterinarians and Farriers agree on many of their complaints about equine owners: (1) often the animal is not up and ready for treatment upon their arrival; (2) the animals are not handled regularly or trained correctly and are difficult to treat; (3) owners use excitable disciplinary tactics while the professional is working on the animal, putting him in physical jeopardy; and (4) owners do not follow up on treatment instructions. True, these complaints apply to both horse and mule owners. To dispel old rumors about mules, it is important that all your equines are easily managed. The veterinarian or Farrier will not be as quick to forgive a mule. The mule foal learns his behavior from his dam. A calm and obedient mare makes for a calm and obedient foal.

Engage with your veterinarian for regular vaccinations and boosters. The pregnant mare should be current on all vaccinations. Seek your vet’s recommendations for immunizations and faithfully follow an annual vaccination program. Make sure you keep good records of vaccinations and worming, and be sure to keep track of when they’re next due.

Vaccines are given based on your geographic location—consult your local veterinarian before proceeding.

Four-way vaccine
Rhino pneumonitis
Potomac horse fever vaccine
West Nile
Rabies
Main shots are given in spring, one time
Booster shot in fall

You are the one that interacts with the animal most often and should know the details that the vet could not possibly know. Good records are important for clear communication with your vet. With each visit, update him on your equine’s management & training status. Alert the vet as to any changes in the equine’s behavior or medical status. Ask questions and learn about what your vet is doing with each visit to increase your knowledge and understanding.

One of the best ways to monitor your equine’s health is by establishing a daily grooming routine. Not only will he be rewarded with a shiny coat, but you can watch for cuts and bruises and check the condition of the feet. When the foal is born, it will be further lessons in “imprinting.”

Discuss a plan of action with your vet to prepare for the N.I. foal.

Neonatal isoerythrolysis,( abbreviated as N.I) is a complex biological puzzle that must be understood if you are expecting a newborn. N.I. can threaten the life of your mule foal especially if your mare has previously had a mule foal. It is similar to the problem seen in human babies called RH incompatibility, and it is becoming more and more common. I highly recommend that you check with your veterinarian before breeding mules.

As in RH incompatibility in humans, if the foal’s blood type is the same as the mare’s blood type, there is no problem. If the foal’s blood type is different from the mare’s, antibodies may be created in the mare’s blood. That is when the problems begin. Mares should be tested for the possibility for an N.I. baby 1-3 weeks before foaling, but you can also test at 30 days before foaling, and again later closer to the time of foaling, to allow more preparation time. Consult your veterinarian well before the mare’s delivery date to make a plan for testing.

When a newborn foal suckles from its mother for the first time, the mare produces special milk called colostrum, which is usually full of vitamins and immunity builders for the newborn. But for an N.I. foal, that colostrum can be deadly because it is full of antibodies directed against its red blood cells. Within the first few days of life, the foal with severe NI will weaken and without treatment can die.

Preparation for the N.I. foal:

Decide on a foaling location. Decide about the birth location…at home, or remotely managed. If she is to be foaling at home, pick a large stall and run to allow for plenty of room and easy access to the mare and foal. It is helpful to install a camera for monitoring the mare since you must catch the foal before it suckles the mare. Keep the mare and foal inside a safe stall for the first 24-36 hours. The stall and run can be next to other animals fence provided there are no health risks. Having other equines near can help to keep the mare from feeling alone and anxious.

Consult with your veterinarian and begin your search for replacement colostrum well ahead of time and keep it on hand and stored properly. Your veterinarian can help to find potential sources . You can either purchase the Colostrum from some sources, and others might ask you for a trade of Colostrum for their banks. Be sure to have replacement Colostrum tested and on hand for the N.I. foal well in advance of foaling.

Be sure to have a muzzle on hand for the N.I. foal. Do not confuse a grazing muzzle with an N.I. muzzle. You can obtain an N.I. Foal Muzzle from:

https://www.pinkstons.com/leather-foal-muzzle/

Ideal for keeping a foal from nursing on an NI positive mare or disturbing wraps on itself or its dam. Constructed of leather, so the foal can be turned out with the muzzle on. One size with an adjustable crown.

https://www.kbchorsesupplies.com/foal-muzzle-leather.html

Leather Foal Muzzle Ideal for keeping a foal from nursing on an NI positive mare or disturbing wraps on itself or its dam. Constructed of leather, so the foal can be turned out with the muzzle on. One size with an adjustable crown.

https://www.quillin.com/soft-leather-muzzle-newborn-and-foal.html

Soft yet durable chap leather, bridle leather crown piece and solid brass hardware. Large air slits and soft suede inside. A Foal with Rh disease can stay with its mother.

Made To Order
Traditional Craftsmanship
Kentucky Made
Repair and Engraving Shop

At Birth Care

Be present for the birth of the foal, imprint, and muzzle the foal immediately. Tie the mare to a stout post in the stall next to the feeder (with about 3’ of slack), take the muzzle off of the foal, feed the foal replacement colostrum and after the predetermined amount of colostrum has been provided over the first few hours of life Milk out the mare every 2 hours. When you are bottle feeding the foal, position him at the mare’s flank. Putting him onto the mare to suckle later will then be easier. Have grass hay in the feeder to help keep the mare occupied while you work. Make sure the foal starts to receive the replacement colostrum as soon as it has a suckle reflex. Consult with your veterinarian about the amount to feed the foal at each feeding and how often to feed the foal.

After 24 hours (but to be completely safe, you might want to opt for 36-48 hours after birth), the muzzle can be removed and the foal can be put onto the mare. Just tie her and take your position at her hip. The foal should follow. Instead of offering the bottle, take off the muzzle and push the foal’s head underneath to her teats. You can use your body to stabilize his position. As he searches for the teats, just be patient and hold your position.

When the muzzle is removed, you can open the stall door and they can be turned into the run together (with the stall door remaining open). Keep them both separated from other animals until the foal is finally weaned. The foal should not be weaned until he is sixth months old. They should not be turned out with other animals to prevent the risk of injury to the foal. If there are other mares with foals, they are safe turnout mates.

N.I. is not a necessarily a death sentence for N.I. foals, but it does take proper management for success. The most important thing will be cooperative communication and timely implementation of the plans you have made with your veterinarian.

Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE and A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES at www.luckythreeranchstore.com

July 16 2023

MULE CROSSING: Training Longears: What’s the Difference? Part 2

Kyle Davidson LTR Blog, Mule Crossing dressage, Leading, lucky three ranch, Meredith Hodges, Mule Crossing, obstacles, round pen, Showmanship, Training Longears 0

In Part 1 of What’s the Difference? we began to define a few of the things that are unique to my training program. At the beginning of my career, it wasn’t long before I realized that, if I wanted to improve my skills and get a better response from my long-eared equine partners, I had to go back to the beginning, start over and pay close attention to what they needed from me at each stage of training in order to accurately perform what I was asking. When I did, lessons truly became a resistance-free, cooperative effort!

I soon realized that leading training had more value than just teaching to lead, tie and perfect technique for a showmanship class. For instance, holding the lead rope in the left hand while pointing to where I was going with the right hand, and using the right hand to maintain the position of the equine, was an important way to allow him to be responsible for his own balance with minimal interference. When I was holding the lead in my right hand, every movement of my hand caused him to have a slight loss of balance. Having the fanny pack of crimped oats strapped to my waist kept his attention on me and prevented him from forging ahead or running off entirely. Teaching the trot on the lead rope was much easier.

I soon discovered that the equine would actually measure his stride to mine when I paid attention to my own posture during leading and kept my steps and stops rhythmic and in synchronization with his. When I kept my transitions from walk to stop smooth and fluid and stopped with my feet together, so did he. When I was consistent about asking him to square up and put equal weight over all four feet at every stop, he would soon make the adjustment himself when I turned to face him. I saw an improvement in balance and strength as I kept my walking lines straight and my turns smooth, working on a gradual arc rather than abrupt turns.

When I saw the difference in the equine’s at-rest position and play patterns, it was evident to me that the muscles at the core that surround the skeletal system were becoming stronger from these passive, isometric exercises. The mind of each animal was more alert and tuned into our tasks, and there was no real incidence of disobedience when I did my part correctly. In the quest to improve their strength and balance, I improved my own substantially.

On the obstacle course, the task is first to instill confidence and trust. When you lead, and use the crimped oats reward, it alleviates fear in the equine and gives them the motivation to explore. Over time, he begins to trust your judgment. When you put obstacles in comfort zones where they eat and rest, it will create anxiety instead of instilling confidence. In my estimation, equines aren’t really afraid of the obstacles themselves. It’s just a fear of being trapped or hurt.

But there is further value in obstacle training on the lead rope. With flatwork leading training, you have cultivated strength and balance in the equine at the core and are now ready to add coordination. Once the equine has learned to negotiate the obstacles without fear, he is then ready to go back through the obstacles and learn coordination by breaking these obstacles down into much smaller steps.

At each obstacle, approach, stop and square up in front of each obstacle. Then ask for the front feet to be placed into the obstacle, stop and square up. Then ask that all four feet be placed into the obstacle, stop and square up. Then ask for the two front feet to exit the obstacle, leave the hind feet within the obstacle, stop and square up. Then exit the obstacle, stop and square up once more before leaving the obstacle.

This approach teaches the equine to stop and rebalance at every new position throughout the obstacle. It builds body awareness as well as adding coordination. You will see that they are not really as balanced as you might think when you ask them to put the two front feet off the far side of the bridge while leaving the hind feet on the bridge. The equine will generally try to keep going forward, or the hind end will pass the front end as it falls off the bridge. When he is capable of doing so, he will be able to hold the position, but you might have to provide assistance the first few times in this awkward position.

You will soon discover after this kind of training that you no longer get your feet stepped on, and that they will avoid stepping on hoses during baths, or cords during clipping. They are truly more able to effectively balance their own bodies. And when you begin lunging in the round pen, the equine is better able to comply with your wishes to balance correctly on the circle at walk and trot. Movement will be more rhythmic with smooth and fluid transitions.

When allowed to freely move in the round pen at walk and trot, the animal who has had the benefit of detailed leading training will exhibit better balance than the one who has not. When he canters, the unbalanced equine will want to raise his head, and hollow his neck and back in varying degrees. In order for him to continue to build muscle in the correct frame, I use an aid I developed called the “Elbow Pull” to help maintain good posture and balance. I was first introduced to this concept by Richard Shrake. If the equine is allowed to exercise with the head and neck raised, he would build muscle out of good equine posture. That would need to be corrected later, and would cause disobedience during the lessons due to soreness, especially if done with a rider on his back. Strengthening the equine body in the correct posture first with the “Elbow Pull” and without the rider will prevent this problem. In addition, with this device, the equine will be started in a snaffle bit with the desired direct rein communication and will learn to be submissive and light in the bridle.

This originally disturbed the Dressage community until I was able to explain its function. This is a self-correcting aid for the equine. It does not force him to keep his head down. Rather, it simply does not allow him to raise his head too high and invert his neck and back. He is free to raise his head, but if too high, it puts pressure on the poll, on the bit, behind the forearms and over the back. It suggests that he lower his head and stretch the muscles across the entire top line in correct vertical flexion. When he is in good posture, all pressure is released and muscle is built symmetrically throughout the entire body in balance and good posture.

When doing exercise in the round pen, if verbal cues and rewards are consistent, your equine actually learns verbal communication in conjunction with body language and his understanding will increase much like a child’s does in grammar school. Equines may not be able to speak English, but they can certainly learn to understand it. Being in good posture will begin to facilitate correct lateral bend to his body and build those muscles in correct posture. He will offer the canter when he is strong enough, so forcing canter is not necessary. Turning him into the fence for the reverse will set him up for the correct diagonal at trot and the correct lead at canter allowing him to make transitions easily and smoothly.

When the equine’s body is developed properly, he will be strong enough and will have the necessary control of his own body to handle the added shifting weight of the rider. Most equines struggle with their own awkwardness and before they get control of their own bodies, they are asked to deal with the awkwardness of the rider at the same time. This often results in perceived disobedience. The equine that is stable in his core muscles and body carriage will be better able to help the rider maintain and improve his own balance and control. Bucking and bolting cease to be a problem.

Learning certain moves is easy and takes much less time, but for maximum performance there is no substitute for taking the time to properly build and condition the muscles that will support your equine’s good postural frame. If you are willing to put in the time and effort necessary, the result will be an animal that is happy and comfortable in his work, light in the bridle and a beautiful mover. Your relationship and performance will soar to unimaginable levels!

Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE and EQUUS REVISITED at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.

MCTrainingLongears_MulesToNewBarn9-12-11-036CC

July 9 2023

MULE CROSSING: Training Longears: What’s the Difference? Part 1

Kyle Davidson LTR Blog, Mule Crossing behavior modification, Clicker Training, crimped oats, groundwork, lucky three ranch, Meredith Hodges, Mule Crossing, Nutrition, rewards, Training Longears 0

By Meredith Hodges

At first glance, it seems those of us who train equines have very similar methods. This is not unusual considering we build our programs on time tested techniques and only make changes in approach when certain things are not working well. We often begin to interact with equines at a very young age and are the product of what we learn from others, and from our own mistakes. The things we learn shape our attitude and approach to riding equines, and riding is first and foremost in our minds right from the beginning. Growing up, we rarely hear anything about groundwork training and when we do, we don’t usually want to spend too much time with it.

Our youthful exposure is limited to the equine trend of the decade and popular breeds of horses unless we are fortunate enough to be the son, daughter or friend of a diverse trainer…and the first thing most people learn about mules is usually negative. Mules have taught me to be kind, respectful, patient and logical in my approach to elicit the best response. When problems arise, I don’t need to fix them, only myself! And when I do, they do the right thing.

When working with horses, we get away with shortcuts in training because the horse is more easily manipulated than the mule or donkey. After training horses for many years before riding Longears I really thought I knew how to ride and train. Much to my chagrin, my introduction to mules showed me just how much more I had to learn to be a truly competent and humane equestrian! I could get a lot from mules and donkeys with horse training techniques, but they did not seem to be as energetic, engaged and consistent. As the level of difficulty increased, I got less and less compliance with my “horse” approach and in time, I was truly humbled! I knew I had to modify my techniques!

I realized that if I wanted to improve my skills and get a better response from my long-eared equine partners, I had to go back to the beginning, start over and pay closer attention to what they needed from me in order to do what I asked. They say there are multiple ways available to the same end, which is true, but what I discovered in my years of training mules and donkeys is that there really is only one BEST way for the best results…their way! This applies to all my equines though my horses tend to be less confident and assertive than the Longears.

Training begins with nutrition and the way your equine is fed. An equine that is fed at a specific time each day is far less stressed than those with inconsistent feeding times and will learn easier. What you feed and how is critical. Equines should be fed in stalls and runs, or in dirt pens and then have monitored turnout times during the day for good health. There are various feeds today designed for the performance equine, researched by scientists in laboratories who seldom see the long-term results of these feeds. These feeds often produce faster growth and give the young equine an appearance of adulthood. When they are not allowed to grow at their natural pace (phases that often make them look awkward and gangly) the bones grow too fast and do not have the chance to harden the way they should.

For optimum bone growth, they need to grow a little and be stressed for awhile before the next burst of growth to become hard. The most obvious example of this can be witnessed in yearling halter classes at today’s shows. Equines used to exhibit very high haunches and low withers as yearlings, lacked muscle tone and were quite awkward looking. They did eventually evolve into beautiful animals, but it took time. These days, you generally see what appears to be a young, but very adult-looking horse with relatively even growth front and back and unusual muscle tone. As they age, bones and soft tissue are not as easily sustained, they become arthritic or have other old-age problems and their longevity of use is compromised. Those equines whose growth has not been artificially accelerated tend to do better and live longer.

Many of today’s feeds can cause hypertension, an inability to concentrate on their job and more frequent occurrences of colic and founder. This is why we feed a crimped oats mixture and good quality grass hay only. Any elaborated products and alfalfa hay can create problems later.

Why feed the oats in the evening? In the spring, your equines should be introduced to new pasture grass slowly. This means you feed in a dry area or small pen and let them out for limited periods of time. For instance, if they were going to be fed at 5P.M., you would only let them out at 3-4P.M. to start. When they know they will have oats, they will come back much easier.

Can I leave my longears on pasture? The answer is no, you really shouldn’t. Donkeys are desert animals and can subsist on practically nothing. The mule is half donkey and has the same trait. If left on pasture, Longears gain weight quickly that can lead to obesity and eventually colic or founder. This is also true of horses that are easy keepers. It’s better to be safe than sorry and monitor feeding more carefully. This includes where you place their feed. If multiple animals are together in a dry pen, use feed buckets or pans and keep them at least 16 feet apart to avoid fighting and possible injury. Don’t feed on the ground. Keep hay in bunks, racks or over matted or other clean, hard surface areas to minimize ingestion of sand and dirt.

What do I use for rewards during training? I wear a fanny pack of crimped oats and dispense them as rewards. Crimped oats are healthy, they get the additional energy they need while they are working and above all else, they will not get sated on them like they will on carrots, apples, horse treats, etc. Diversity in the rewards will cause diversity in their behavioral responses. I strive for confidence, obedience and consistency in my equines.

What if he becomes aggressive toward the rewards? Isn’t it better to avoid this by no food rewards? The equine will give you his best if he is “paid well.” Good behaviors that are rewarded with a food reward will be more likely to be repeated. There is a very specific correction for those who become too aggressive for the oats: Say “No” very loudly. Use the flat of your hand with a well-placed slap on the side of the mouth and put your hand in front of his face like a stop sign. He will fling his head up and to the side to avoid you and start to step back at which time you take oats from the fanny pack, quickly step forward and offer the reward while saying “Thank you for giving me my space.” The next time he tests you, you will only need to put your hand up like a stop sign and say “No!” He will then step back and wait for his reward.

The equine that receives food rewards will not only offer more during training, but he will learn how to take things from a human’s hand safely. When they are regularly given rewards, equines learn how to be gentle and careful about receiving those rewards. They will avoid biting down on your hand or fingers. Those who do not get this practice are more apt to accidently bite your fingers…or the fingers of some poor unsuspecting person who naively wanted to stop and feed your animal.

What is the difference between my methods and Clicker Training? Both are based on Behavior Modification where good behaviors are rewarded and the reward used is the same healthy crimped oats that they are normally fed. Clicker Training lets the animal know by the clicker that a reward is coming before the reward is dispensed. You might use the same reward, but using your voice instead of the clicker is much more personal and communicative.

I prefer to use my voice because it is far more enticing and engaging. If you learn how to respond verbally to your equine’s good and bad behaviors instead of using a device, you will invite an intimate bond between you that is more mutually satisfying. Over time, the verbal language will continue to grow from short commands to actual conversations, very much like children learn language. Equines may not be able to learn to speak English, but if you are a good listener, calculated and consistent in your approach, they can certainly learn to understand it!

Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE and EQUUS REVISITED at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.

March 29 2024

LTR Training Tip #111: Driving Bits

Kyle Davidson LTR Blog Driving, lucky three ranch, Meredith Hodges, Mule Training Videos 0

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July 24 2022

MULE CROSSING: Dancing with Mules

Kyle Davidson LTR Blog, Mule Crossing dressage, Lucky Three Sundowner, training 1

By Meredith Hodges

Lucky Three Sundowner was foaled at my mother’s Windy Valley Ranch in Healdsburg, California in June of 1980. Two weeks later he and his dam, Candy Etta, an AQHA registered mare, were shipped to the Lucky Three Ranch in Loveland, Colorado, where we continued the superior mule breeding and training program that my mother had started. Sunny was a tall, gangly little bay mule foal with an affectionate and willing attitude.

His show career began at halter and progressed to Western Pleasure and Reining by the time he was three years old. He won the World Championship in Reining at Bishop Mule Days as a four year old in 1984. Although he did very well in these events, he still seemed tense and nervous. For the next two years, I decided to focus on more relaxing events for him in Western Pleasure, Trail and English Pleasure. People were not easily accepting mules in equine events that were reserved for horses and ponies. Mules were universally considered stubborn, uncooperative and only suitable for the activities of farming, packing and pulling heavy loads. I suspected that this was not true and set out to prove it by schooling my mules in every discipline possible. Sunny had won the World Championship in Reining. I believed that schooling in Dressage could only help him in other judged disciplines and I set out to prove it.

During our beginnings in Colorado, there were small mule shows and some schooling horse shows that we could attend to test our skills. However, most people really didn’t believe mules could do all the different events that horses could do and did not want us around. A picture of Colonel Alois Podhajsky hung over my bed since I was small and I have always been in awe of the supreme levels of horsemanship that Dressage horses could attain. My dream was to be able to dance with Sunny in Dressage, but without anyone to help us, how could we ever achieve that level?

In 1986, fellow mule lover Sally McClean and I attended the United States Dressage Federation Convention and asked that mules be accepted into Dressage schooling shows. We were met with resistance, but there were some who were empathetic to our plight and they agreed that we should be allowed to compete at the lower levels to be able to test our skills and be part of the Dressage community. Sunny and I began Dressage lessons with local United States Dressage Federation instructor/trainer, Melinda Weatherford in Fort Collins, Colorado. Since neither Sunny, nor I, were previously schooled in Dressage and because he was a mule, we were faced with a much harder journey than we ever imagined. Lindy certainly had her work cut out for her teaching the two of us!

With acceptance by the U.S.D.F. (United States Dressage Federation), I felt it was important that our World Mule Show in Bishop, California, offered classes in Dressage. There were now a few others who were starting their mules in Dressage and they would need a place to show their progress against their own kind. The Bishop Mule Days Committee agreed and Dressage was included as a part of this truly world-class mule show! With the addition of Dressage, Bishop Mule Days became a 5-day show. Today, Bishop boasts a full week of over 180 different mule and donkey events with over 800 entries each year. Dressage classes grew rapidly with increased interest! People were beginning to realize how much Dressage could influence their Longears’ performance in other classes. Even the donkey classes began to improve and more events were offered for them as well. My own Little Jack Horner was working at Second Level Dressage, which was unheard of for a donkey!

During Sunny’s first Training Level Dressage test in 1988, he got frustrated and ran off with me! Mules will sometimes do that! He scored 5’s and 6’s. The judge’s comment was, “This could be a nice mover if you can get his brain-by teaching him shoulder-in and leg yielding…” Unfortunately, we were eliminated. In 1988, he made his second debut at Training Level Dressage at Bishop Mule Days. He had much improved scores of 6 and 7. The comments, were, “Very pleasing ride, lovely mule, need to work on halts.” The progress Sunny made in just a month was phenomenal!

Sunny really enjoyed the predictable exercise routine and was soon much more relaxed and submissive although, we still had an occasional runaway during practice. It took me awhile to figure out just why Sunny was running off with me. During the Reining training as a three year old, Sunnyhad been forced to continue to gallop after missing his lead changes. From that time on, he would take off every time he thought he made a mistake, even when I didn’t think he had! He thought that was the right thing to do, so I patiently just rode out the runaways on a loose rein and kept asking him verbally to “Whoa.” Each time, the runaways got shorter.

I knew that it was important to make sure his foundation work was stable and consistent, so we spent 1 ½ years schooling at Training Level Dressage. I made sure that he was only schooled every other day, with a day of rest in between. This seemed to help him to relax and settle, but his rhythm and cadence were still irregular at times. Then I thought maybe riding to music might help both of us. So, I sat down in the evenings, watched his training videos and picked music that would fit his natural rhythm at all three gaits. I even wore my Top Hat for our dress rehearsals to help me to set the mood. This staging during practice sessions made a dramatic change in his attitude… and mine!

Suddenly, we both experienced the harmony that we had only heard about that could take place between rider and horse, or in our case, rider and mule! It took a bit longer than expected, but spending that extra time at Training Level really improved his forward motion with strong engagement of his hind quarters. This, in turn, enhanced the lengthening and shortening of his strides within the working and extended gaits. We were ready to ask our coach if we could proceed to the next level. We began work on Leg Yields and attempted a bit of Shoulder-in.

We continued our weekly lessons with Lindy and progressed to First Level Dressage. We learned to sustain good balance, rhythm and cadence at all three working gaits and to lengthen these gaits with alacrity and grace. People at the farm where we took lessons began to stop and watch us in awe! They had never seen such a thing! In May of 1989, he showed at Bishop Mule Days again with scores of 6 and 7. The comments, “Nice moving mule. Good impulsion, but unsteady at times. Good overall.” There were 10 entries that year and Sunny placed first! We were definitely making progress and people were beginning to notice!

Later in the summer of 1989, Sunny and I began to work at Second Level Dressage and entered some local schooling shows against horses to measure our progress. He did very well and was rapidly becoming the “Dressage Spokesperson” for mules! In 1990, he took first in the Bishop Mule Days Second Level Dressage Class. He was honored by Bishop Mule Days when asked to do a special demonstration for their Sunday afternoon performance. Sunny wowed the crowd with his sensitivity, agility and graceful performance!

By May of 1991, Sunny was finally beginning to work at Third Level Dressage. Bishop had no Third Level Dressage class. So, they allowed Sunny to compete at Second Level Dressage again that year against four other mules and Dolly Barton who was rapidly becoming a Dressage champion herself – a mule bred by Bonnie Shields, the Tennessee Mule Artist!

Dolly placed first and Sunny placed second. Again, he scored 6’s and 7’s and the comments read, “Very nice ride! Needs more bending through turns and circles and scores will be higher.” Since both mules would be moving up another level by the next year, I went back to the Bishop Mule Days Committee and requested a Third Level Dressage class for 1992. They were so impressed with Lucky Three Sundowner and Dolly Barton that they agreed.

At Bishop Mule Days 1992, Sunny placed first against Dolly Barton in the Third Level Dressage class with scores of 6 and 7. I don’t think he liked being beat by a girl the year before! By 1993, Sunny was working at Fourth Level Dressage. It was at this time that I attempted to change his bridle, from the Eggbutt Snaffle Flash bridle, to a Weymouth Bridle with the curb action Weymouth and Bradoon. He reacted violently to the additional restriction from the Deluxe Weymouth Bridle. He was always compliant and responsive in his Eggbutt Snaffle Bridle, so I opted to go forward in the same bridle to keep him relaxed and happy with his work. He then competed a second year at Bishop Mule Days at Third Level Dressage, where he easily won being the only mule in the class. He had won respect from the horse community and had clearly surpassed his peers!

Quietly at home, with only a few onlookers, Sunny and I danced together to The Emperor’s Waltz by Johann Strauss with Canter Pirouettes, Half Passes, Passage and Piaffe. OUR DREAM TO DANCE TOGETHER HAD FINALLY COME TRUE! Lucky Three Sundowner passed away in October of 2015 at the age of 35 years, but his legacy remains. Dispelling all the old rumors about mules and donkeys, the memories we made together were priceless and paved the way for many more Longears athletes to “strut their stuff” in the equine industry of today! It took 18 years for mules to finally be accepted in the United States Dressage Federation Dressage Division in 2004, but nothing pleases me more than to see Longears successfully competing in the U.S.D.F. Dressage Finals against horses in Lexington, Kentucky! Long live our beloved Longears!

Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE, EQUUS REVISITED and A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.