LTR Training Tip #43: Teaching Your Equine to Stand Still
Whether or not your equine is calm enough to really stand still depends on all the lessons he has had and how they were executed.
Meredith Hodges
CHASITY’S CHALLENGES: After the Winter Break: 3-29-21
Due to the colder and more inclement weather here in Colorado, Chasity has been off her exercise program for about three months. It was time to get back to work! No matter how long it has been between lessons, when you have a specific routine, the equines seem to comply easily because they know what to expect, beginning with going to their regular work station to be groomed and tacked up. In order to keep upper respiratory disease at bay, eye infections and ear problems to a minimum, it is advisable to clean these areas with a damp towel regularly. Be polite and wipe the towel in the direction that the hair lays and clean the nostrils with a circular motion. This repetition will prevent them from getting head shy.
Chasity still thinks the vacuum cleaner is questionable, but she tolerates it now. Not only does it pull the dirt from the skin for healthy hair growth, it also promotes circulation better than massage and does a better job at softening her “fat roll.” I used massage in the beginning when Chasity first came here with her enlarged crest (photo below on the right).
It had become somewhat enlarged again about three weeks ago, but after two sessions with the vacuum cleaner, it has decreased substantially already.
Another valuable therapeutic grooming tool is this simple human, multi-bristled hairbrush. It is not only VERY helpful during shedding, but also works to further stimulate the hair coat and promote better circulation, as well as efficiently removing dirt from the skin. I have found it to be more helpful for healthy hair than any equine grooming tools. The long, thick hair coats of winter and spring stay soft and healthy when I use this hair brush over the entire body. I only clip bridle paths when the weather gets warmer and I leave body clipping for showing. The only other grooming tools I use are a shedding blade to remove mud and a dandy brush to finish the coat. They can have balding spots from rubbing during the shedding season and may even get sores, but I just treat those with Neosporin and they recede quickly. A healthy hair coat will insulate your equine from the heat and cold and protect them from insects better than any artificial products or practices.
Equines do like feeling clean all over and really do appreciate your efforts at keeping them this way…although, they don’t necessarily show it when the first thing they do after a good grooming is to go for a good roll in the dirt!!! Still, they do seem to realize that you care and will show their appreciation in a multitude of other ways…like being happy to leave their companions to go with YOU and stand quietly during grooming, tacking and hoof care!
Feeding is a very important consideration for healthy hooves as are regular trims when needed, usually every 8-10 weeks. For donkeys, it can even be longer between trims when they wear their hooves in good balance. Chasity had hoof issues when she first arrived, but is now sporting healthy balanced feet! Remember that Longears will be more upright and have more heel than horses and ponies…and donkeys will typically be more upright and have more heel than mules.
Fitting saddles can be tricky. Make sure the saddle makes even contact behind the withers and over the back with relief from pressure over the spine. Many saddles sit too high and cause centralized and uneven pressure across the back. Pressure points are easily identified after a workout. The back will be sweaty, but the pressure points will be dry.
Place the saddle in the center of the back, behind the shoulder blade, the girth falling 4” behind the forearm where the skin is thicker and body begins to swell. I have successfully used cruppers with the buckles set away from the tail to hold it in place. The crupper is adjusted with just enough tension so the tail will still be able to rest comfortably.
I am using the neck sweat on Chasity for lunging to promote a decrease in the crest. When bridling, I press my thumb on the bars of her mouth to get it open and protect her ears with my hands as I pull the crown piece to the poll. This promotes trust and keeps any equine from getting ear shy.
On an English saddle there is a small d-ring that I use to tie up the reins.
Then it is off to the Round Pen. I always stay in sync with their front legs when we walk and execute the gates EXACTLY the same way EVERY TIME! All movements are predictable, never abrupt. They comply due to trust.
I adjust Chasity’s postural restraint, the “Elbow Pull,” and then remind her to give to the tension to get the release with a reward of oats for flexing at the poll. Wrangler, “Mr. Curiosity” watches intently…they do learn from each other!
Chasity’s overall posture has changed dramatically as has her movement. She uses her body much more efficiently.
Chasity has strong hind quarter engagement with an uphill balance to promote enthusiasm, endurance and stamina.
A reward is always in order for a job well done. Her forward stretch has improved greatly in one short year.
The lateral stretches are also much improved. After five rotations of walk, then trot, then reverse and repeat the other direction, 3 sets with a 3 minute break in between, then stop. Done once a week is adequate to maintain conditioning.
I hold the halter crown strap in my hand and protect her ears as I remove Chasity’s bridle. Then I slip the bridle onto my left arm, bring the noseband over her nose with my left hand and fasten the halter to the strap in my right hand. This ensures that I can keep hold of her should she try to pull away. Last, I fasten the tie strap from the hitch rail.
I always unfasten the girth on the left, then tie up the girth on the right, slide the saddle back, loosen the crupper from the tail and take off the saddle on the right side. This gets the equine used to being handled from BOTH sides. I always rinse the bits and wipe any dirt from the bridles and saddles before putting them away…saves work in the long run!
I remove Chasity’s neck sweat to see how much sweat is underneath…encouraging! We are definitely making progress!
To end, we do a few more stretches in each direction. These are improving immensely, too!
Then it’s walking IN SYNC back to the barn for turnout in the larger dry lot. They enter the stall, ladies first, and then they both turn around to allow me to remove their halters and to enjoy their last reward. I keep all my donkeys off grass most of the time. I find that they stay healthier and do not run the risk of getting obese that way. They do have large dry lots for turnout on pea gravel every day and a couple of acres of dirt pen for really stretching their legs every other day. They do get some grass when we go for walks, but do not seem to miss it most of the time. They are too busy playing and resting with each other…and looking forward to our next lesson TOGETHER!
LTR MULES: Learning with Lancelot 3-5-21
By Meredith Hodges
Longears thrive with a routine management and training program. Their performance and longevity is greatly increased. Sir Lancelot is now a 27-year-old ranch mule that has had the benefit of my management and training protocol. Done over two years when he was much younger, the result of his postural core strength leading exercises, lunging, ground driving and later riding in my postural “Elbow Pull” self-correcting restraint is apparent in his youthful enthusiastic attutude and body structure. Since, I did not show Lance, I had no need to make the transition from the Eggbutt snaffle bit to the curb bit. He was extremely responsive in the snaffle bit all these years. Today, we are going to make the transition to the curb bit and document it as an addition to our training series.
Lance executes the gate perfectly! He stands quietly while I put on the “Elbow Pull with the curb bit that conveniently has a crosspiece connecting the two ends of the shanks where I can run it through (instead of running it through the snaffl rings as I did in the snaffle bridle). Commonly, the equine will raise his head during his first introducion to the curb bit. Lunging in the “Elbow Pull” will remind him of his good posture with the addition of the new bit.
Lance starts to raise his head, but almost immediately resumes his good posture. The “Elbow Pull” goes loose and he moves out nicely at the trot.
The canter poses no problem at all. Lance stands quietly after being called to halt while I change lungeline to the new side of his face.
Lance remains on the arc of the circle with a squeeze from closing my fist as his outside front leg comes into suspension, maintaining his balance and bending correctly through his rib cage as he first learned in the Round Pen.
Lance steps well underneath his body and maintains the critical upward balance intiated by hind quarter engagement.
Lance waits patiently as I roll up the lunge line, remove the “Elbow Pull” and then follows me obediently to the gate.
The mounting block was new, but he didn’t mind! He knows how to stand still. He followed my seat easily around the first turn, bending appropriately through his rib cage while staying erect in his posture around the cone.
I kept my hands in front of the saddle horn. On the straight lines I alternated leg pressure from side to side. Through the turns, I lightly squeezed/released the direct rein while continuously nudging the opposite side with leg pressure from my leg. Otherwise, I kept my hands quiet. Lance remained in good equine posture.
I verbally counted to Lance as he negotiated the Hourglass Pattern. On straight lines, I matched my alternate leg pressure with the verbal command, “One-Two, One-Two…” and on the turns, I matched the one-sided leg pressure with, “Two-two, Two-Two…” He halted with his hind quarters still engaged.
Lance kept his mouth quiet and responded well to my leg pressure with hardly any movement necessary on the reins. We finished with a bow (He really likes to bow!)! He then stoood quietly and waited for my next cue.
Lance was so proud of himself! When you take the time to break things down into very small steps so your intent is clear and concise to your equine, it is easy to successfully make the transition from one thing to the next during training, even when going from the snaffle bit to the curb while maintaining the same light and responsive contact with your equine’s mouth. Although it may take more time, the journey and the end result is much more relaxed and enjoyable. One learns to appreciate the “little” victories along the way. In turn, our equines appreciate US because they know in no uncertain terms that we have their best interest at heart and are the ones that keep them healthy and comfortable. This makes for a deep and abiding, everlasting partnership!
LTR Training Tip #42: Leading Purposefully at the Walk and Trot
Leading with purpose will keep your equine’s responses attentive, prompt and smooth.
LTR Training Tip #41: Turn on the Forehand
Meredith demonstrates how to teach your equine to execute a turn-on-the-forehand on the lead line.
LTR Training Tip #40: Turn on the Haunches
The turn on the haunches can be a complicated move for your equine. Learn how to approach the move in this Training Tip.
LTR Training Tip #39: Showmanship Patterns
If you are going to attend a show, it is advisable to get a copy of the rulebook that is designated by the show committee, so you know what to expect for each class you enter.
LTR Training Tip #38: Showmanship is Not Just for Show
One of the most difficult things your equine will ever learn is to stand perfectly still while the show judge inspects him.
LTR Training Tip #37: Showmanship Judging
One of the most difficult things your equine will ever learn is to stand perfectly still while the show judge inspects him.
LTR Training Tip #124: Practical & Therapeutic Grooming
Grooming is an important facet of your equine’s management. How you take care of his hair coat will greatly affect his health. How often you groom and what tools you use can positively affect your equine’s behavior and comfort.
LTR Training Tip #36: Using the Elbow Pull During Leading Training
The elbow pull will stop your equine from raising his head to the point where he hollows his neck and back, and will keep him in reasonably correct posture.
LTR Training Tip #34: Keep Lessons Short and Easy
Training sessions that are too repetitious and last too long will only fatigue and frustrate your equine, resulting in unwanted resistance. Keep lessons short and easy for the best training results.
MULE CROSSING: Understanding Behavior Modification
By Meredith Hodges
When people think of Behavior Modification, most people think of the basest idea of rewarding good behaviors with treats which is commonly called positive reinforcement. A common misconception is that if positive behaviors are rewarded, then negative behaviors should not occur, but in reality, they do. Negative behaviors need to be negatively reinforced, or discouraged, but the negative reinforcement should be punitive, but not abusive. Learning how to employ Behavior Modification can be easy and fun.
Scientifically speaking, Behavior Modification is a direct and literal translation of stimulus and response. Given a certain stimulus, a living being will respond in a predictable manner. This is the essence of communication. Communication is comprised of a lot of elements that all play an important part in the receiver’s ability to understand. When trying to communicate, one needs to realize many different perceptions can arise from the receiver’s ability to comprehend. They might perceive from a purely technical level, a scientific level, an emotional level, a physical level, or any combination of a multitude of perceptions depending upon their life experience. It is the same for all living creatures. Finding the right stimulus for each individual and implementing it properly is the key to good communication and a satisfying response.
When using Behavior Modification, one needs to take into account all the things that can make that individual comfortable and happy. In the case of equines, we need to take into account the feeding and nutritional programs we use. Certain feeds can actually cause problems like nervousness, anxiety and hypertension that can result in an inability to be calm and receptive to incoming information. From this evolves negative behaviors that block the learning process.
In addition to feeds and nutrition, we need to take into account the anatomical ramifications of the way we are physically conditioning the animal. The healthiest way to condition an animal is slowly, and in an order that builds muscles layer by layer, beginning with the core muscles and elements that support the skeleton. When you take the time and effort to approach training in a logical and sequential way, it promotes healthy organ function and a happy mental attitude. When doing this, one should allow the equine to perform freely and without constraint. When they feel good physically, they are more than halfway to a good mental attitude. A program of physical exercise that is taxing and stressful may produce the appearance of the right results, but there may be deeper problems that can surface at a later date.
It is easy for natural athletes, but as I said before, we are dealing with individuals and each one is unique. Not all individuals are physically able to carry their bodies in good equine posture, and perform athletic movements correctly without some guidance. When they do not carry their bodies in good equine posture, certain muscle groups are not conditioned symmetrically throughout the body. This will cause compensation from other muscle groups that will eventually become over-used, stressed and they will give way to soreness, lameness, or worse. The uncomfortable individual will begin to exhibit negative behaviors as a result.
Herein lays the value of using certain kinds of restraints, such as the “Elbow Pull” that we begin using in DVD #2 of my Training Mules & Donkeys series. This particular restraint is used to keep the equine in good posture while exercising, so that all the muscle groups are worked symmetrically throughout the body. Of course, it is the trainer’s responsibility to make sure that they are worked evenly on both sides of the body. The restraint only addresses the posture and not the directional movement of the muscles. The “Elbow Pull” is not in the hands of the trainer, but rather it is a self-correcting device for the equine to control. It only prevents him from raising his head so high that he inverts his neck and back. If allowed to continually raise his head this high, over time he would develop a U-neck and/or Lordosis (Swayback). Since good posture
is something that must be taught, it prevents this bad posture, but allows the equine completely free movement in every other direction. Good posture is difficult to hold when you are not used to it and this aid gives him support at the poll to encourage him to round his back and neck, and relax the poll. He can lean on the “Elbow Pull” at the poll when he has difficulty holding his own good posture and the device will be snug at the poll, the bit rings, behind the forearms and over the back. When he holds his own good posture, it is completely loose. The equine is the one who controls his own good posture. An equine that does not have natural acceptable posture will soon give to the aid because he will feel more comfortable than he has ever been in his incorrect posture. Those who have naturally acceptable posture will succumb to the device faster. No equine is really in their ideal posture to start. Restraints play an important role in the hands of competent trainers, but they should only be used to suggest certain behaviors, and then they should be phased out over time. They should not be used to force the equine to do anything.
There are certain individuals who are not all coordinated and have difficulty attaining balance in good equine posture. For this reason, it is important to start slow and gradually ask for more speed, and more difficult movements, only as they are easily performed. First, the equine’s balance needs to be attained at the slower gaits with very simple movements in order for the coordination to become repetitive, habitual and comfortable. This not only pertains to the equine being trained, but to the trainer as well.
Verbal communication is not exclusively for the equine to learn commands. It has a two-fold purpose. For the equine, it is a way for the animal to understand what the trainer is asking when the body language is unclear. For the trainer, it is a reminder to 
synchronize his own body language with what he is asking from the equine so his signals are clear. This is especially important for novice animals and trainers.
In Behavior Modification, we use the animal’s natural instincts, tendencies and movement to assimilate the things we wish them to do so they can be rewarded. The reward needs to be something for which the equine will continually work for over long periods of time. It needs to be something that will never bore him and something that does not cause adverse or negative behaviors. In the case of equines, this is crimped oats! Equines that are over-indulged, or bribed, will not respond appropriately and may become pushy.
Horses have a very strong flight reflex and donkeys are prone to the freeze reflex. Mules can have a combination of both. All three have a strong sense of self-preservation that triggers their behaviors. If you want to have an equine that enjoys his work, it is important to bolster his confidence and trust in your. This requires setting up the training environment in a safe and non-threatening manner. For instance, if you begin training a foal, or have a new equine, it would be practical to approach the animal at a time when the flight reflex is at its lowest…feeding time!
Of course, this is only practical when it comes to imprinting, haltering and simple tasks like brushing and picking up the feet. This also sets the stage for reward system training. When he has finished his oats mix, he will be happy to know there is an easy way to get more. He will appreciate, perform and bond with the person who gives the reward.
Chasing the equine is never an option. He will only learn that he can sucker you into a game of chase…and you will lose! When this reward system of training is applied correctly, you should NEVER need to chase him. He will always look forward to being with you.
During this time, your equine’s ground manners will begin to develop. If you are consistent with what and how you ask, when the rewards are prompt and appropriately given, you should experience minimal adverse behaviors.
As he gains confidence, it’s the equine’s natural instinct to become playful. In this controlled environment, you are able to set limits to these negative behaviors in the form of non-abusive punishment. The most common expression of playfulness is to turn, buck and kick at the trainer. If a foal does this, you would simply give him a smart slap to the rump, step back and firmly say, “No!” He might be startled, but he would turn and look at you, displaying curiosity. When he does, you would say, “Good Boy (or Good Girl) and then offer an oats reward, and give it to him when he approaches again. We want to encourage this curiosity, but stop the bad behavior.
If an adult equine turns his haunches to you and threatens to kick, you would firmly and loudly say, “NO!” Use a whip as an extension of your arm and strike him smartly on the fetlocks, only once for each kick. Pause afterwards to give him a chance to turn his head to you. Then you can offer the reward the same way you would with the foal.
The strike on the fetlocks will not hurt him. It will only startle him and get his attention. Your voice will also startle him when you say, “NO!” and will cause him to turn his head to you and THAT can be rewarded. Biting is handled the same way with a firm slap of your palm on the side of his mouth, a loud “NO!” and then put up your hand like a stop sign in front of his face. He will raise and turn his head to flee at which time you simply step forward and offer the oats reward with an open hand for giving you your space. The next time he becomes aggressive (and he will!), you will only need to raise your hand like a stop sign and he should step back to receive his reward. The first-time slap applied smartly was simply to clarify the boundary to his behavior. So, if you do not want to slap him again, you have to make a firm impression on him the first time! It is well worth the few minutes of training that it takes in the beginning to ensure that your animal does not become dangerous later. This may literally make the difference between life and death.
The result of this early limiting of the negative behaviors (of biting and kicking), will pave the way for you to set boundaries to any other questionable behaviors that might arise in the future. All it should take is the raising of your hand and a firm “NO!” It teaches the equine to think before he acts. It might mean the difference between a real bite, or nip, and a soft nudge, or a kick, and a soft shove with a hind foot when he experiences discomfort. Early negotiation of obstacles on the lead rope will also help to engage his curiosity, help to solidify his responses for rewards, passively build and condition the muscles closet to the bone, and will encourage trust in his trainer. Now we can safely proceed to a more open area to play and learn with our equine.
In the Round Pen, we will begin to use the flight reflex a platform for reward. The equine is already comfortable with you and knows you mean him no harm. In the Round Pen, he may be averse to circling, and may want to just stand still.
If he does, raise the whip and strike the ground behind him, or even his rump. If he still won’t move, back up, lower your body and shuffle your feet on the ground as you approach his rear again…he should take off. If he is the type to take off on his own, just stand in the middle and wait until he slows down and stops. When he does, say, “Whoa” and offer the reward.
The same goes for the equine that had problems getting started. Send him back to the rail again and build the number of expected rotations slowly and over time. Be consistent with your rewards for the “Whoa.” Learning the consistent, “Whoa” will give you a safe zone from which to work and play. This will translate to trust and confidence, and will temper the flight reflex to a controllable level. It can make the difference between the freeze and flight reflex if the equine is spooked under saddle.
The equine that is brought along with this kind of training will pause and give his attention to the rider before reacting. Any bucking and kicking while circling in the Round Pen should be ignored, and the reward should be postponed until he regains composure and has done what is expected. Bucking and kicking should be allowed during lunging because many times it is merely a moment of confusion, or the need for a physical adjustment (in the spine?), on the part of the equine at this stage of training and not really an aggressive move against the trainer. It is rarely an exhibition of meanness unless provoked by the trainer. Once the equine gets this sorted out, he will always want to be with you, and use his good manners, because it is the best place to be!
Whether they realize it or not, most trainers already use some form of Behavior Modification in their training program. There is so much to learn about communication to truly achieve balance and harmony, that one trainer could not possibly know it all. For this reason, it is important to appreciate the work of others who are giving of their knowledge to share, and assess for yourself the techniques that they offer that might fit 
into your program. As they say, “You can always learn something from everyone!” It is our job to sort through what only works for the short term, and what really works for long term success. Don’t be afraid to make mistakes. It’s just one more way to learn. The more we think we know, the more we learn that there is so much more to learn!
Behavior Modification is an ongoing, careful balance of communication between living creatures. It works when both parties opt to listen and learn from each other. At each stage, there are tasks to perform that need to be balanced and refined by both the trainer and the trainee. Behavior Modification is not controlling. Rather, it’s a guidance system by which positive behaviors are rewarded and thus, more likely to be repeated and become habitual. The parties involved are both rewarded each time they are together. They learn more about each other in an enjoyable and appreciative manner.
Over time, with practice and this kind of understanding, comes harmony and mutually satisfying performance. In the beginning, it may seem overly simple, but as you practice and learn more, your proficiency will increase gradually over time, and the results you will witness are truly amazing! This is why Behavior Modification, when applied correctly is the method of choice in the training and treatment of zoo animals and aquatic mammals.
To learn more about Meredith Hodges and her comprehensive all-breed equine training program, visit LuckyThreeRanch.com or call 1-800-816-7566. Check out her children’s website at JasperTheMule.com. Also, find Meredith on Facebook, YouTube, Pinterest, Instagram, MeWe and Twitter.
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE and EQUUS REVISITED at www.luckythreeranchstore.com
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LTR Training Tip#33: Plan Every Move for Good Posture
By planning every move and being consistent, you can reinforce your equine’s good posture—until it’s a natural state for them.
CHASITY’S CHALLENGES: Maintaining a Happy Donkey: 3-2-21
When Chasity first arrived, we needed to keep her in quarantine, away from the other animals for a minimum of two weeks. Over the past 41 years, we altered our facility to an all-steel facility. Reduced maintenance costs enabled us to proceed converting from wood and wire to steel until we completed the process. This has greatly reduced the overall maintenance costs for the entire ranch, enabling us to purchase steel panels for the barn runs. It was easy to quarantine Chasity safely and still allow her company (at a distance, of course!) and an introduction to her future stable mate, Wrangler. About every five years, we do have to spray paint the panels to keep them looking new, but this is a small price to pay for a happy donkey!
Once out of quarantine, Chasity and Wrangler were stabled next to each other. All of our runs are bedded with four inches of pea gravel. This promotes good drainage and keeps things from getting muddy. This, in turn, provides a hard surface for good hoof health and will not chip their feet because of its rounded shape. Each of our donkeys is given a soccer ball for play in the smaller areas. The ground surface is also soft and comfortable enough for them to lie down without causing shoe boils or sores. They learn to come by calling them to the end of the runs and rewarding with oats.
The mini donkeys’ pens are the same way, as is the road around the sandy dressage arena where they can also be turned out in the larger dirt area when it is not in use. They really enjoy a good roll in the sand.
Donkeys are desert animals and can easily become obese when exposed to green pastures. I only take my donkeys out to pasture to play with me.
My 60’ x 180’ indoor arena is lined with steel panels. I have a 45’ Round Pen at one end with obstacles inside the side gates around the south end. The enclosed area makes for good obstacle training with minimal distractions. Round Pen work and turnout in the open area during bad weather is completely safe and NON-DESTRUCTIVE!
At first, Chasity would not come to me at the stall door, but after being chased once into the stall to be haltered, she soon gave in easily. I always halter in exactly the same way, in the same place. They love routine.
The oats reward assures that she will repeat the behavior. After only one lesson, she now comes to me every time to be haltered. For clean, dry stalls, we bore a 2’ wide x 4’ deep hole in the center, fill it with 1 ½” rock, cover it with four inches of pea gravel and put rubber mats on top. The pea gravel is held in with 2” x 6” boards bordered by angle iron.
Since we had no animals in the north stalls, we took down the panels and made a large turnout area bedded in four inches of pea gravel for Wrangler and Chasity. It was plenty large enough to romp and play…and not get muddy!
When I am out and about the barn, I reinforce Wrangler and Chasity’s will, as well as all the others, to come to me for their oats reward. We keep bulk rock, pea gravel and structural fill in bays behind the indoor arena.
When the equines are in turnout, we replenish the pea gravel as needed with the Skidsteer.
Wrangler and Chasity, our miniature donkeys Augie & Spuds, miniature mule Francis and miniature horse Mirage also have alternate access to a very large 2 ½ acre dirt pen…Large Standard donkeys one day, miniatures the next.
When it is dry, they can take turns on alternate days in the larger area to stretch their legs and buck to their hearts desire. They do not seem to miss being in the pasture with this kind of management and they really do stay very healthy. We have no incidence of colic, founder, abscesses, skin irritations, rashes or obesity.
LTR Training Tip #32: Good Posture and Performance
For your equines to perform their best, they need to have even weight distribution and efficiently utilize balanced movement in their bodies. Learn how to encourage good posture for good performance.