lucky three ranch
MULE CROSSING: From Mules to Riches
Long before the Founding Fathers drafted our constitution, America began as a religious nation under God, and the mule has his roots in religion just as does the country he has helped to build. The mule of today’s ancestor is the donkey, mentioned in the Bible numerous times as an animal respected by God and blessed by Jesus Christ. The donkey was even chosen to bring Mary and Joseph to Bethlehem and, later, acted as the mount Jesus himself used for his ride into the city of Jerusalem. Read more at https://www.luckythreeranch.com/mule-crossing-from-mules-to-riches/
Insect Control
(Page 76) First and foremost, a regular grooming schedule at least every other week and preferably every week is essential for the hygiene of your equines. In order to keep flies and other insects under control, all stalls, runs and pens need to be kept free of manure and debris daily. Barns need to be cleaned periodically with disinfectant. Fields and pastures need to be harrowed in the spring and fall and between hay cuttings. We use fly masks without ears on the animals that are sensitive around their faces and we spray with Tri-Tech 14 once a week for insects that pester your equine. Regular grooming once a week to remove excess hair, mud, etc. will eliminate places on the animal, including legs that would be subject to their laying eggs. We worm our equines in January, March, May, July and September with Farnam Ivermectin and then break the cycle with Strongid in November to prevent internal worms and parasites. Using Johnson’s baby oil in the manes and tails helps keep the flies at bay and will also keep other animals from chewing on them. Keep all tack and equipment clean so it does not attract flies to your tack room and grooming area. Spray the tack room when you leave with a household flying insect spray for any residual flies.
I have found that there are several things that can control insects and other skin irritants…at least around your own farm:
1) Feeding the right kinds of feed for mules and donkeys
2) Keeping all stalls, pens and sheds free of manure (clean every day!)
3) Keep manure collection piles well away from the house and barns (we have ours hauled away weekly)
4) Keeping water sources clean
5) Clean any manure from shed or stall walls daily
6) Good grooming practices at least once a week (If certain body areas begin to get sores, scabs, or bumps, use Neosporin or if they are severe…Panalog, also called Animax or Dermalone by prescription from your vet)
7) Use Tri-Tech 14 by Farnam fly spray weekly for bugs and insects that can pester your equine. This seems to be the best and longest lasting (herbal remedies do not work as well!)
8) Do not clip the hair inside the ears!
9) Do not clip the hair on the legs unless you absolutely must for showing!
10) Use fly masks for those mules and donkeys that have sensitive skin. Farnam Super Masks will usually fit most animals. You can find them in most tack and vet stores and they are also available at www.statelinetack.com. Just make sure when you put them on that they will come off easily.
MULE CROSSING: Insect Control
Insect Control
Here is some information about insect control that you might find helpful! We worm our equines in January, March, May, July and September with Farnam Ivermectin and then break the cycle with Strongid in November to prevent internal worms and parasites. This insures that your animals are safe despite what your neighbors may be doing with their livestock. Fields and pastures should be harrowed in the spring and fall, and between hay cuttings. Keep all tack and equipment clean so it does not attract flies to your tack room and grooming area. Spray the tack room when you leave with a household flying insect spray for any residual flies.
- First and foremost, a regular grooming schedule at least every other week and preferably every week is essential for the
hygiene and health of your equines. Regular grooming once a week to remove excess hair, mud, etc. will eliminate places on the animal, including legs that would be subject to insects laying eggs. If certain body areas begin to get sores, scabs, or bumps, use Neosporin, or if they are severe…Panalog, also called Animax or Dermalone (by prescription from your vet). Clean the eyes, ears and nostrils every time during grooming and fly spray the hairs inside the ears for the best bug-block after cleaning. - We use Tri-Tech 14 by Farnam fly spray weekly for bugs and insects that can pester your equine. This seems to be the best and longest lasting spray (Herbal remedies and fly predators do not work as well!). Scrub flies and eggs from the legs, cover with Neosporin and then spray for flies during grooming. Using Johnson’s baby oil in the manes and tails helps to keep the flies at bay and will also discourage other animals from chewing on them.
- Use fly masks for those mules and donkeys that have sensitive skin. Farnam Super Masks will usually fit most animals. If you groom regularly and clean and spray the ear hairs, the eared masks may not be necessary (I have never had to use the ones with ears). You can find them in most tack and vet stores. Just make sure when you put them on that they will come off easily if they were to get caught on anything.
- Feeding the right kinds of feed for mules and donkeys. Animals are sweating toxins are more apt to attract insects.
In order to keep flies and other insects under control, all stalls, runs and pens need to be kept free of manure and debris daily. Barns should be cleaned periodically with disinfectant. Keep all stalls, pens and sheds free of urine and manure (clean at least once a day, every day!). This includes larger dirt pen turnout areas weekly. You shouldn’t need to use any PDZ or chemicals at all if cleaned properly. For good drainage in stalls, we drill a 2’ x 4’ deep hole in the middle of the stall and fill it with 1 ½” rock. Then we put down 4” of pea gravel throughout the whole stall and cover with rubber mats.- Keep manure collection piles well away from the house and barns (We put manure into a dumpster behind our hay barn and have it hauled away weekly). Contrary to popular belief, the manure is NOT suitable for fertilizer unless it is properly composted and used for appropriate crops. Equines consume weeds and poop seeds that will propagate weeds anywhere that the manure is used.
- Keep water sources clean. Check them daily, or clean as needed.
Clean any manure from shed or stall walls daily. Power wash stall walls and alleyways as needed.- Ceiling fans will also help a lot, both pointed into specific stalls and along the top of your barn alleyways! Just be sure to check them regularly and clean them as needed to prevent any spontaneous fires from dust gathering in them. Keep them running so birds will not build nests on them!
- Do not ever clip the hair inside the ears or muzzle hairs of the equines! Body clip only if you are showing. Use blankets and fly sheets as needed. Their hair coats will insulate them from the heat, cold and protect them from insects.
- Do not clip the hair on the legs unless you absolutely must for showing! Lots of times, you can get a clean look by using the clippers with the hair rather than against the hair on the legs to maintain protection.
- Keeping your fence lines free of weeds will also help enormously! Bugs and insects like to live in those areas!

© 2021, 2024 Lucky Three Ranch, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
MULE CROSSING: Christmas Fun with Your Equine!
By Meredith Hodges
The cold winter months bring on the enthusiasm for Christmas and all that it brings. Those of us who have equines will often revisit the warmth and affection that we experience with our animals. When we think about gift for our friends and family, we might even consider getting them a dog, cat, horse, pony or even a Longears. When we have these thoughts, we often disregard the actual maintenance and responsibilities that go along with our beloved animals. Will the recipient have a place to house and take care of them? Will they have the time and budget? Do the laws in their area even allow for animals of any kind? Would they even want an animal to love as much as we love ours?
Beyond the basics, there are a lot of other things to consider. Different breeds of animals have different temperament and personalities. How would you go about selecting an animal that would be compatible with your friends or family? It is difficult enough when you are talking about a dog, cat, horse or pony. But if you are considering a Longears, as intelligent and particular as they are, you KNOW they would need to be able to choose YOU!
After spring, summer and fall come and go, the cold days of winter can easily become an excuse to slow down and do less, but winter can be just as fun and full of activities with your equine as any other season. Along with the basics—food, water and shelter—your equine needs activities to keep him fit and happy. Like any of us, he doesn’t want to be active only part of the year and then left alone during the winter months, bored and lonely (not to mention the stress he will feel when he has to be reconditioned every spring).
Instead, it’s healthier for him, both physically and mentally, to be active and maintained year-round. This does not mean you need to ride him three or four days a week throughout the winter. There are lots of other fun, diverse activities you can enjoy together that will adequately maintain his body condition while keeping him interested and happy.
Of course, in order to enjoy winter games and sports, you must first be sure to dress appropriately for the weather in your area. If you live in a cool or cold climate, dress in layered clothing you can easily remove if you need to. Wear a hat to conserve your body heat and footwear that keeps your feet warm and dry. What your equine wears in cold weather is equally important. For instance, if your equine’s winter coat tends to be on the thinner side, he may need a blanket for the long winter nights to keep his body from expending too much energy just trying to stay warm. Generally speaking, an equine’s coat will adjust to the colder weather during the onset of fall and winter. The hair coat must stand on end in order to insulate the equine properly during cold, heat and insect invasions during the various seasons. So, if your equine has a healthy hair coat, no blanket is really necessary.
Although a blanket will also serve to mat down his coat so there is less chance of it becoming entangled in his tack or harness, but it can also cause the hair coat to operate improperly for keeping him warm. There needs to be a practical reason for using winter blankets or they could make your equine sick. Just because you are cold, doesn’t mean they are cold unless they a visibly shivering. This could happen as they age. If you have a stall for your equine, just for winter months, you may want to trace-clip him in the areas that do the most sweating so that when he is worked, he will cool down quickly and easily. In this case, he might need to be blanketed, but be ready to take on or take off the blanket or blankets as needed. Promoting good circulation keeps your equine warm, helps his body to stay flexible and supple, and cuts way down on his muscle and bone stiffness. Be sure to begin any and all workouts and recreational activities with consistent and appropriate warm-up exercises.
Since most inclement weather produces slippery ground surfaces, if your equine is to be used extensively, it is important that he have appropriate shoes on his feet during the slippery seasons. On strictly muddy or slippery surfaces, tapping and drilling studs into his shoes can help immensely in giving him added traction. If cared for properly, you can remove these studs when you don’t need them. If you get snow in your area, you may want to go with Borium shoes and rim pads. The Borium shoes supply good traction, while the rim pads prevent snow from balling up in your equine’s feet. I also suggest using splint boots on all four of his legs. This will protect against injury and give him added support and protection of his fetlock joints. Riding on the treacherous winter ground CAREFULLY can actually enhance core strength and postural balance.
There are lots of different winter games that you can play with your equine and if you have a friend who wants to participate too, there are even more possibilities. With proper shoes on your equine and good, flat ground, and if the weather permits, there are so many gymkhana games that you can play. Or how would you like a brisk cross-country gallop on your equine with a few fences to jump? Or you and a friend can take an exciting ride on a tire or sled, taking turns with one person riding the equine while the other rides the sled or tire tied on the saddle horn by a rope. If you have more friends with equines, you can even have winter races. You are limited only by your own imagination! Remember that any game or sport requires that you consider safety first for both you and your equine: What are your abilities? What are your limitations? What is your level of physical conditioning and that of your equine? Whatever activities the two of you do to keep busy, happy and healthy during the winter months, the name of the game should always be—WINTER FUN!
If you have a very young equine, make sure to consistently continue your routine of handling him throughout the entire winter. I do not suggest Lunging very young equines on the treacherous winter ground unless you have the advantage of using an indoor arena. He could slip and injure himself. But you can still take him for walks on the lead line, Ground Drive him through various winter scenes and spend plenty of time grooming him. All of this will accustom him to winter’s unique terrain and obstacles, maintain his essential and continued imprinting and bonding with you, build his self-confidence and maintain his good manners.
If your equine is well-trained, it might be fun to attend winter clinics, or visit elementary schools and accustom the children to your equine. They would find particular interest in Longears and would welcome the introductions. If your equine is of appropriate size and is trained really well, visiting assisted living homes and hospitals can make a joyous occasion for those who are not able to go out and enjoy the season. The smiles that you put on their faces will add the joy of giving to your heart and enhance the reason for the season for you all. Just be sure to call ahead and make definite appointments for these types of activities.
The better trained your equine is, the more possibilities there are for winter sports and games. If the idea of taking lessons at a riding stable that has an indoor arena appeals to you, winter tends to be a less hectic, more peaceful time of year in which to
learn and practice without the added stress and anxiety of showing and other warm weather activities. But even if you want to forego the lessons, there are numerous stables that will rent the use of their indoor arenas for a nominal fee and there are places where you can trail ride through beautiful winter scenes.
People and equines alike seem to derive great pleasure from these winter get-togethers when they are carefully and responsibly planned. You can even plan and enjoy a winter trail ride in the mountains. You might not be able to ride beyond the snow line, but you can ride up to the snow line and enjoy the breath-taking vistas that the mountains afford. Just be sure to plan ahead and know what kind of weather you will be facing on any given day.
Another great way to have fun with your equine is participating in winter games and holiday parades. Christmas is always a joyous time to bring your equine out of the barn. Consider decorating your equine, dressing up yourself and then riding or driving with friends and family in your local Christmas parade. This can be loads of fun!
Caroling aboard your equine or driving in a surrey or carriage throughout your neighborhood is also a wonderful way for you, your equine and your neighbors to get into the holiday spirit. Oftentimes when my equines and I have gone out caroling after a Christmas parade, the neighborhood children have come out to sing and dance behind our caroling caravan! This kind of pure joy is contagious and always reminds me of the true meaning of the Christmas season.
Before considering gifts for your family and friends, spend time getting to know their likes and dislikes. It would be better to find out if they even have any interest in live animals and then get them an appropriate book or a video about their interest. If they do show an interest in live animals, plan to spend time together so you can introduce them to the right way to feed, interact and maintain live animals. This approach will provide you all with the warmth and affection that you deserve. With the onset of computers and so much technology, people forget that you can literally travel the world through books and videos. You can learn to communicate better and enjoy deeper relationships. This will greatly expend horizons and offer brighter futures for everyone. This is a much more appropriate way to offer a suitable gift. Have a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
To learn more about Meredith Hodges and her comprehensive all-breed equine training program, visit LuckyThreeRanch.com, MEREDITH HODGES PUBLIC FIGURE Facebook page, or call 1-800-816-7566. Check out her children’s website at JasperTheMule.com. Also, find Meredith on Pinterest, Instagram, MeWe, YouTube and Twitter.
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE, EQUUS REVISITED and A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.
© 2024 Lucky Three Ranch, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
MULE TALK! PODCAST: Jasper The Mule
Jasper The Mule –
- How Jasper the mule was created and his purpose.
- Educating children about working with animals.
- Jasper books that are appropriate for children of all ages.
- Learn about Jasper going to Bishop Mule Days.
- Jasper the mule on tour and more!
And follow along. Read the transcript.
Learn more on Mule Talk podcast.
LTR Training Tip #6: Feeding Time – Oat Mixture
Meredith gets a lot of letters and emails from people with training questions about their equines. Here, she discusses the best way to incorporate an oats mixture into your equine’s diet.
MULE CROSSING: What are Mules Good for Besides Packing and Farming?
By Meredith Hodges
The modern contemporary mule of the late 1970s has emerged as a fine saddle, driving and pack animal. No longer does he come from exclusively low grade mares. With the upgrading of mule breeding, the mule is a new, gentle and versatile animal capable of performing well in all forms of equine athletics. He can do cow work, work and pleasure driving, packing, jumping and is better suited for long trails, yet he still possesses all the traits that have made mules popular throughout the centuries: a willingness to work, an easy keeper, more resistance to parasites and disease, extremely surefooted and his indubitable intelligence that is often confused with stubbornness.
Mules are capable of being used for as many different things as are all breeds of horses put together. Since a mule gets most of his ability from the mare, one need only scout a mule out of a
particular kind of horse to match the desired ability. A mule out of any breed of horse will be stronger and more durable than the horse out of which he came.
Mules played an important role in our country during the Reconstruction Period: they patiently worked the fields, packed necessary artillery for the army, and served as a durable riding and driving animal in the westward movement.
With the coming of the industrial age, their uses were minimized and they were faced with the possibility of extinction in the march of progress. Today, through the persistent determination of mule enthusiasts, mules are once again emerging as a conceivable asset to our economy and a unique form of athletic achievement and entertainment.
With new and improved training techniques, the mules of today are known for their beauty and outstanding athletic ability, their durability and their intelligence. Their uses are limited only to the imaginations of their owners. It is now commonly known that with proper training, a mule can perform better than the horse it was bred from. Subsequently, mules are not only competing in mule shows, but horse shows as well—in events from cutting to dressage. Cattle ranchers have discovered the mule to be an important asset in their business. He can go all day without tiring and can cover terrain that might discourage a horse, not to mention that the ride is much more comfortable.
Hunters caught in the heavy snows of the Rocky Mountains praise their mules for carrying out heavy game and blazing trails through treacherous snowy ground, leading them and their horses to safety. Sales persons are grateful to both mules and donkeys for their humorous contributions in advertising and children appreciate the companionship and affection that mules can offer.
Even the army has conceded that mules could make their contribution to the economy through their use in mountain light infantry divisions. The only problem that arises is educating people on mule psychology so that they can train them properly.
Though we are still a busy society, with the help of technology we are more able to give the mule the time and appreciation he deserves. Consequently, we are continually discovering new uses for the much-maligned mule, enjoying him more, and in the process, we’re putting the old wives’ tales to rest.
Yesterday’s mules sturdy and strong
The days in the fields were often quite long
The man with the whip sometimes evened the score
With a jolt to the head by a stout two-by-four.
“Understanding” a word not common for slaves
Caused many good mules to go to their graves
“Stubborn and cranky are mules,” said most men
Who used and abused them then were kicked or bitten.
When industry triumphed, the mules quickly faded
But the tales remained and were often quite jaded
Twas never the man with the stout two-by-four
Who was wrong from the start to push mules way too far
But the folks who were ignorant knew only what’s said
And since mules cannot talk, their reputation was dead
They’re known to be pushy, vengeful, and cross
So man abandoned the mule for his exquisite horse.
But even after the industrial revolution, mules exhibited their versatility and once again defined their use for the new age. The military dispersed their cavalries and sold most of their mules in lieu of motorized all-terrain vehicles. However, when they got up into the Rocky Mountains, they still found some areas impenetrable and had to resort to the use of pack mules yet again. In California, there is still a Military Mountain Mule Training Camp. And just recently…
INTERNET
Mules are being used to carry supplies into Western North Carolina
The animals are being used to carry water, diapers and other much-needed essentials into communities isolated after Helene.
Author: James Brierton (WCNC)
Published: 3:29 PM EDT October 1, 2024
Updated: 3:29 PM EDT October 1, 2024
Facebook
WEAVERVILLE, N.C. — After Helene isolated western North Carolina communities with landslides, flash flooding and road damage good Samaritans have had to find creative ways to bring in much-needed supplies.
In addition to aircraft drops by military and civilian pilots, mule packers are using the animals to walk supplies into mountainous communities.
“Mules and equipment are loaded, and the first big batch of supplies has been purchased and loaded,” the Mountain Mule Packer Ranch posted on Facebook Monday. “We have two fully loaded trucks and 20′ stock trailers heading to WNC for assistance!”
Later Monday, the ranchers posted pictures of the animals and supply cargo to social media.
“We will be setting up a staging area and beginning to assist this afternoon,” they wrote on Monday, “and will be bringing up additional loads of supplies once mules are in place!”
Mountain Mule Packer Ranch is based out of Mount Ulla, which is located between Lake Norman and Salisbury in North Carolina. They have been using their Facebook page to announce when they will be at the Food Lion, located at 11745 Statesville Blvd. in Cleveland, NC, to collect donations.
Busy morning as we loaded lots of equipment, supplies, and MULES, to leave for WNC! Please know that we appreciate EVERY kind word, gesture of support, and all that are partnering with us to HELP all that we can! We will be setting up a staging area and beginning to assist this afternoon and will be bringing up additional loads of supplies once mules are in place! #prayingforthoseaffectedbyhelene #mulepower #StrongerTogether #mountainmulepackers #militarymules
The Mountain Mule Packer Ranch partnered with the Cajun Navy, another group of civilian volunteers, to deliver insulin to a family on Monday, according to their Facebook posts.
The ranchers have setup their staging area in Montreat on Tuesday. They were planning to make trips into Black Mountain.
Mountain Mule Packer Ranch
October 1, 6:31 a.m.
8:30am update 10/1/24 Mike and the mule team made it to their staging area in Montreat yesterday and have already been helpful to families in need! They will be doing all they can in Black Mountain today. Thankful to Five 11’s Livestock Hauling for offering help in hauling mules so we could bring more supplies up! And appreciate being able to help support Cajun Navy 2016 on their efforts as well!
The team here at the ranch will be shopping for more supplies today, to restock them tomorrow! We appreciate the huge outpouring of requests on how to get supplies to us. Because of the conditions in the mountains and the way the team will be moving around, that is hard to coordinate. I will bring a trailer to the Food Lion Shopping Center this afternoon at approximately 4pm if there is anyone in the area that wants to add to the supplies we are bringing! Please let me know if this is something you’d like to do, and we can be there between 4-5pm today to collect what you have!! God bless you all, and thank you for keeping prayers lifted up!!
Food Lion 11745 Statesville Blvd., Cleveland, NC
EQUUS MAGAZINE
Horse, mule groups aid NC storm victims
Much-needed supplies are being packed and airlifted into affected areas
October 3, 2024
⎯ Edited Press Release
NOTE: This is a developing story that will be updated periodically.
A force of nature called Helene made landfall as a deadly category 4 hurricane late on the evening of September 26, 2024, along the Florida Gulf Coast. One day later, as Helene weakened to a tropical storm, it unleashed damaging winds, unprecedented rainfall and torrential flooding across the southeast U.S., with Georgia and the Carolinas particularly hard hit. Donated hay/Sandhills Pony Club social media.
In some cases, entire inland communities have been wiped out in scenes described as “apocalyptic.” The degree of destruction is staggering, and the death toll continues to rise, with rescue operations in full swing and hundreds of people still believed missing at this writing. In the wake of the devastation, groups such as the Mountain Mule Packer Ranch in Mount Ulla, North Carolina, and the Sandhills Pony Club of Pinebluff, North Carolina, have mobilized to help victims of Helene in that state’s western mountains, many of whom have been stranded for days without food, water, cell power, electricity and passable roads.
Their targets include not only the people in these locations, but their animals, as well.
Packing it in
In the case of the Mountain Mule Packer Ranch, a business that offers training in tactical mule packing, the objective is getting much-needed supplies in by pack mule strings to especially hard-to-reach mountain locations. The mules and supplies are being hauled to local staging areas from which they are being deployed. According to reports, each of the mules can carry 200 pounds of supplies, everything from food and water to diapers and medical needs like insulin.
In a recent Facebook post, the Mountain Mule Packer Ranch asked that anyone who wants to donate to their mission or who knows of “specific needs and areas” where mule-string help might be warranted please reach out to them at (910) 885-1402. “We can bring supplies or pack in what your group has acquired already,” the post reads. There have also been reports of vital supplies being carried into the mountains by individuals on horseback.
Airlifting hay and animal feed
Meanwhile, members of the Sandhills Pony Club are using airlifts and ATVs to transport donated hay, feed and animal supplies into zones where horses, other livestock and pets have not been evacuated.
Recently added to the pony club’s wish list: Pet food in easily transportable sizes, roll-type temporary fencing, five-gallon jugs for water and small bags of high-performance dog food like Purina Pro-Plan and Diamond Performance (no chicken, please) for the hardworking Search and Rescue dogs.
The group is also asking for additional volunteers to help coordinate this massive relief effort. Call (615) 268-9145 or email sandhillsponyclub@gmail.com for more information.
A post on the club’s Facebook page directs those wishing to help to send donations by Venmo (@Sandhills_PonyClub) or mail a check to Sandhills Pony Club, 255 Cliffman Rd., Pinebluff, NC 28373.
Landing page image from Mountain Mule Packer Ranch social media
“With more time to our leisure the mules of today
Are treated much better and perform just that way
The love and affection the mules can now give
Makes raising and training a warm way to live.
To meet them and greet them, to own one or not
The mules of today exhibit just what they got!
We’ve banned the “Old Wives’ Tales” and made a new rule
If you aren’t too stubborn, why not ride a mule!”
Again with the devastation in North Carolina, South Caroline, Georgia, Florida, Alabama and Tennessee, mules are once again traveling far into areas that prohibit motorized vehicles from going. There are particularly remote areas in the Appalachian Mountains that can be truly difficult to navigate due to extremely steep trail and low hollers along the riverbanks as described in a book I read about the first women on mules that delivered books to these remote areas. Private citizens with their mules and horses were timely in their response and are definitely continuing to make a difference in the lives of the people who have been left homeless and floundering after this horrible disaster. Mules will always be an asset to our American way of life due to their outstanding characteristics, versatility and ability to go where not all men can go!
To learn more about Meredith Hodges and her comprehensive all-breed equine training program, visit LuckyThreeRanch.com, MEREDITH HODGES PUBLIC FIGURE Facebook page, or call 1-800-816-7566. Check out her children’s website at JasperTheMule.com. Also, find Meredith on Pinterest, Instagram, MeWe, YouTube and Twitter.
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE and EQUUS REVISITED at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.
© 1985, 2016, 2024 Lucky Three Ranch, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
MULE CROSSING: Multiple Facets of Longears Hybrid Vigor
By Meredith Hodges
“Hybrid vigor is the increase in certain characteristics like growth rate, size, fertility, yield etc. of a particular hybrid organism over its parents. Hybrid vigor is also known by some other names, including heterosis and inbreeding enhancement. Hybrid vigor occurs because the hybrid offspring’s traits are enhanced due to the mixing of genetic contributions of its parents.”
What are mules and hinnies?
The mule is a hybrid cross between a male donkey (jack) and a female horse (mare). Because the mule most often demonstrates the best traits from each parent, he possesses what we call hybrid vigor. The mule inherits from the donkey his incredible strength, intelligence, patience, perseverance, endurance and surefootedness from the jack and his equine beauty, athletic ability and speed from the horse.

The hinny is also called a mule. However, the hinny is the hybrid cross between a male horse (stallion) and a female donkey (jenny, or jennet). Mules and hinnies are very difficult to tell apart without a DNA test. A hinny generally resembles a horse more than it does an ass. It looks more like a horse with long ears and looks very much like a mule. The hinny has been used as a saddle animal from antiquity and is more difficult to produce than the mule, because the jennet does not conceive well with the stallion.
The hinny is a somewhat slower and more meticulous mover than the mule, but a laid back mule can offer similar characteristics. The hinny inherits his way of going from the jennet as does the mule, which tends to be a little faster, more energetic and more agile—like his dam, the mare. The hinny, because of his meticulous way of going, is actually better in very steep, rocky terrain and, especially, in loose rock, and will not tire as quickly as a mule. Hinnies are the preferred equine in Mexico and Central America due to their diligence when working. Gaited hinnies are preferable in this kind of terrain where there is little opportunity to gallop because they have a smooth, more ground-covering gait and offer a smooth ride.
The hooves of a hinny tend to be more donkey-like—narrow, oval and more upright—where the hooves of a mule will look more horse-like; a little rounder (although still oval), with slightly more angle than the donkey hoof, but not as flat, round and angled as the horse’s hoof. On both hinnies and mules, the hooves should be trimmed more upright and the heels should be left longer than the hooves of the horse.
The hinny will also eat a variety of different kinds of shrubs and bushes to sustain himself, where a mule will be more selective, again because of the influence of the mare. This makes the hinny more desirable to those people living in remote mountain areas with little vegetation.
Both the mule and the hinny have more endurance by far than the horse. They are more resistant to parasites and disease, require less feed for good health, have tougher hooves than the horse, and have an incredible sense of self preservation that keeps them safe, which is often mistaken for stubbornness. The horse has a flight reflex when startled and the donkey has a freeze reflex; mules and hinnies can exhibit both the freeze and flight reflexes, depending on their own unique personalities and the situation at hand.
Certain breeds of mares do not conceive as well with the jack as other breeds. When breeding for mules, since the jacks are generally smaller and of slighter build than a horse, mule foals are generally smaller than horse foals and the mare has very little problem foaling. When breeding for hinnies, one needs to be cautious, as the jennets are smaller and of a slighter build than mares. A large stallion could produce a foal that would be too large and difficult for the jennet to easily foal. This is the reason that breeding for mules is more popular than breeding for hinnies. Matching the size of the parents is much more important with hinnies. It is more difficult for a jennet to settle after being bred to a stallion than it is for a mare to settle after being bred by a jack, so breeding for hinnies can take significantly longer.
What are the physical characteristics of the Ass?

The ass has a distinctive bray, Long ears, a short upright and thin mane with hair only on the end of its tail. Mules tend to look more horse-like than donkeys. Asses and mules can come in a wide variety of colors. Their hooves are narrow and boxlike, unlike the oval shape of horse hooves. Their hooves are upstanding, and made for rock and mountain climbing. They are tough and elastic, non-chipping and can grow to long lengths when the animal is on soft ground and the hooves are left untrimmed. The ass has a long body with long, wiry muscles and a short, straight back. He lacks upstanding withers and is excellent for packing and weight bearing and his bone is dense and hard. Gestation is 12 months, whereas the gestation period for a horse is 11 months.
The ass usually has a white belly and muzzle, and circles around the eyes. His colors are much like that of a horse. They can
come in more colors than a horse, even an Appaloosa. Mule’s conformation falls somewhere in between that of the donkey and that of the horse. Mules inherit the best traits from both its sire and its dam. Mules get their athletic ability from the horse, while strength and intelligence come from the donkey. Mules today come in all shapes sizes and colors, from minis under 50 pounds to maxis over 1000 pounds, and in many different colors. Mules from Appaloosa mares produce wildly colored mules, much like their Appaloosa horse relatives, but with even wilder skewed colors. The Appaloosa color is produced by a complex of genes known as the Leopard Complex (Lp). Mares homozygous for the Lp gene bred to any color donkey will produce an Appaloosa colored mule.
What are the mental characteristics of the Ass?
The ass is highly intelligent, alert, curious and affectionate, when not worn down by bad conditions (i.e., cruel treatment, bad shelter, bad food and water or overwork). They are quick to learn. A well-trained mule is calm, tolerant, loyal, affectionate, obliging and patient and sensitive. Mules and donkeys might be mistaken as being stubborn when they’re actually afraid or confused. The ass has common sense and is not prone to panic or carelessness. He can readily recognize danger!
What kinds of hybrid equines are there?
The following are simple definitions for the horses, mules and donkeys we will discuss:
Stallion: male horse
Mare: female horse
Jack or Jackass: male donkey
Jennet or Jenny: female donkey
Horse mule, john mule: male mule
Mare mule, molly mule: female mule
Horse, Mule and Donkey Hybrids:
Mule: donkey father + horse mother
Hinny: horse father + donkey mother
Donkule, Jule: donkey father + mule mother
Hule: horse father + mule mother
Zebroids (Zebra Hybrids)
Zedonk, Zebrass, Zebronkey, Zonkey, Zebonkey, Zebradonk, Zebryde: zebra father + donkey mother
Zorse, Golden Zebra, Zebra mule, Zebrule: zebra father + horse mother
Zony: zebra father + pony mother
Zetland: zebra father + Shetland pony mother
Zebret, Donkra: donkey father + zebra mother
Hebra, Horbra, Zebrinny: horse father + zebra mother
Although hybrids are typically sterile, two documented cases of fertility do exist. One was known as Old Beck from Texas A&M, bred first by stallion, Pat Murphy, and yielded the hule, Pat Murphy, Jr. She was bred a second time to a jack and produced the jule, or donkule Kate. The other was Krause, belonging to Arthur Silvester in Champion, Nebraska. She was bred to a jack twice and foaled first with Blue Moon, and then with White Lightning. More numerous cases have emerged with the new technology and better national and international communication.
Happy Hinnies
This story comes from our friend, Luzma Maria Osorio, of Criadero Villa Luz in Colombia.

At our Stud Farm, Villa Luz, in Colombia, South America, we have been breeding mules and donkeys for more than fifteen years. There has been a big demand for our Paso Fino male donkeys (Jacks) to produce gaited mules through the years. But we were left with many female donkeys (Jennies), and nobody would buy them to produce mules even though they have the same good genetics and Paso Fino gait of their brothers. So we thought, let’s breed Hinnies–and the project began!
It is said that Hinnies often have shorter ears, although they are still longer than those of horses, and more horse-like manes and tails than mules. Well, our Hinnies certainly have the ear shape of their sire–they are beautifully pointed at the top just like his, but bigger. Up until now the behavior and characteristics of our Hinnies don’t differ much from the mules, they are lovely animals. It is our goal to study Hinnies and help to understand them better.

The good news is, the Paso Fino gait has passed to the Hinnies! This gait is natural and we have seen it in our baby Hinnies shortly after birth! Paso Fino is a lateral gait, four beat footfall, which provides a constant, rhythmic cadence. The rider should not experience any bumping or jolting. They say you can carry a tray with a glass of champagne on a Paso Fino equine as they are so smooth!!
We don’t know if they got the Paso Fino gait from the sire or the dam because both have it, but we certainly will have Paso Fino Hinnies! Very smooth, intelligent and well behaved!
Mules are good mothers too!
They say Mules cannot give birth and are hostile to foals, but the mule Chucurena has proved completely the opposite. On 25 September 2011 she gave birth to a beautiful baby mule in Colombia South America and she is proving to be a great mother! This miracle was achieved thanks to the Embryo transplant technique. A three day old embryo was extracted from a mare and implanted in the mule’s womb to develop it. Embryo transplants are a complicated process that requires synchronizing the ovulating time in both females, in this instance it was carried out by the specialized Colombian Veterinarian Hector Mendez.
The embryo was from a Paso Fino Mare called La Querencia and the Paso Fino Donkey Cosaco XVI de Villa Luz. The pregnancy was 11 months and the delivery was normal with no complications, the mule knew exactly what to do and behaved as an expert mother even if it was her first time! The baby is a female and it was called “La bien querida” (The much loved).
But that is not the end of the story, just 12 hours before the mule Chucurena gave birth, the egg donor mare also gave birth to another mule foal from the same donkey Cosaco XVI. Two foals born the same day, with the same dame and sire and they are not twins! Are you a bit confused? The explanation is easy: 18 days after the embryo was taken out of the mare, she had her cycle and was inseminated again and got pregnant, this time they left the embryo in, and another mule was born!
Even if most mules are sterile, they have a maternal instinct, we had a case in our Farm where the mule La Rosa de Villa Luz, fell in love with a foal of a mare and tried to steal it, she kept very close to it for weeks, showing angry signs to the mare and a maternal attitude to the foal; when the mare and the foal were transferred to another pasture, the mule brayed for days. We have also been told of another case where an orphan foal was adopted by a mule and after two days the mule started producing milk!
Even though some mules have ovulation cycles, only 60 cases of mules giving birth have been documented in the last 500 years around the world. In 1976 in Colombia, South America a mule called Gaviota gave birth not only once but twice. First to a baby foal that looked like a horse and after 16 months, to a baby foal that looked like a mule, both fathered by the same horse called Arandu. There are no documented cases involving fertile male mules.As you can see mules never stop surprising us, they are lovely animals and there are still loads to learn about them!
Mules Producing Offspring
Most mules are sterile but, very rarely, they can reproduce. However, you are more likely to be struck by lightning than own a mule that is able to have a baby. Here are the stories of some of the mules who have had babies throughout history.There have been two documented cases in America where mules have conceived and given birth and even more in other parts of the world. Several female mules have produced offspring when mated with a purebred horse or donkey. Since 1527, there have been more than 60 documented cases of foals born to female mules around the world. There are no recorded cases of fertile mule stallions.
Since mules and hinnies have 63 chromosomes, and donkeys and horses have 62 and 64, respectively, the different structure and number usually prevents the chromosomes from pairing up properly and creating successful embryos. In most fertile mule mares, the mare passes on a complete set of her maternal genes (i.e., from her horse/pony mother) to the foal; a female mule bred to a horse will therefore produce a 100 percent horse foal.
One of the first historical accounts of a mule producing offspring comes from Herodotus’ The Histories: “There happened also a portent of another kind while he was still at Sardis,—a mule brought forth young and gave birth to a mule.” Such a thing was considered a very bad omen indeed (in fact,Herodotus considered it foreshadowing of Xerxes’ invasion …
A fertile mule would also disprove ancient theories of biology as determined by Aristotle and other Greek philosophers –an animal’s species is determined based on its ability to reproduce. So, a mule is not a separate species (like a horse or donkey). But what is the species of a mule’s offspring, then? Without the DNA pairs matching, the rest of meiosis does not happen, which means that there are no viable eggs or sperm. Besides the differences in DNA sequence, the mule also has a lonely horse chromosome. This extra chromosome, some research conjectures, might be another reason most mules are infertile.
Cornevin and Lesbre stated that in 1873 an Arab mule in Africa was bred to a stallion and produced female offspring. The parents and the offspring were sent to the Jardin d’Acclimatation in Paris. The mule produced a second female offspring sired by the same stallion and then two male offspring, one sired by a donkey and the other by a stallion. The female progeny were fertile, but their offspring were feeble and died at birth. Cossar Ewart recorded an Indian case in which a female mule gave birth to a male colt.
A comparable case is that of a fertile hinny (donkey mother, horse sire – the reverse of a mule) in China. Her offspring, named “Dragon Foal,” was sired by a donkey. Scientists expected a donkey foal if the mother had passed on her maternal chromosomes in the same way as a mule. However, Dragon Foal resembles a strange donkey with mule-like features. Her chromosomes and DNA tests confirm that she is a previously undocumented combination.
In Morocco, a mare mule produced a male foal that was 75 percent donkey and 25 percent horse (i.e., she passed on a mixture of genes instead of passing on her maternal chromosomes in the expected way). Miracle mule ‘confirmed’ DNA tests have confirmed that a Moroccan mule did give birth to a foal. Veterinary experts say the foal’s father was a donkey and its mother a true mule. “The foal inherited a mixture of horse and donkey chromosomes via the mother’s ovum ”
Mule cases with offspring have been reported to be quite numerous in Morocco. Morocco’s mules are also used in the equine industry for embryo transplants. Pregnancy is rare, but can occasionally occur naturally, as well as through embryo transfer. A few mare mules have produced offspring when mated with a horse or donkey stallion.

Herodotus gives an account of such an event as an ill omen of Xerxes’ invasion of Greece in 480 BC: “There happened also a portent of another kind while he was still at Sardis—a mule brought forth young and gave birth to a mule” (Herodotus The Histories 7:57), and a mule’s giving birth was a frequently recorded portent in antiquity, although scientific writers also doubted whether it was really possible (see e.g. Aristotle, Historia animalium, 6.24; Varro, De re rustica, 2.1.28).
Between 1527 and 2002, approximately sixty such births were reported. In Morocco in early 2002 and Colorado in 2007, mare mules produced colts.] Blood and hair samples from the Colorado birth verified that the mother was indeed a mule and the foal was indeed her offspring.
In the 1920s, Old Beck, a mare mule {at Texas A&M), produced a mule daughter called Kit. When Old Beck was bred to a horse stallion she produced a horse son (i.e., the horse stallion sired horse foals). When bred to a donkey, she produced mule offspring. Old Beck was a mare mule owned by a farmer in East Texas. Mules are usually considered infertile, but Old Beck had been mated to a jack and produced a foal that was very clearly a mule, named Kit. When she was brought to Texas A&M in 1921, Old Beck was mated to a stallion and also produced a living colt, however this time a horse, named Pat Murphy, Jr. No other offspring were ever produced from subsequent matings. Kit never produced any offspring; however, Pat Murphy was a fertile sire. This story caught the attention of many, making Old Beck quite famous. #tbt #tamuansc
In 1995, a group from the Federal University of Minas Gerais described a female mule that was pregnant for a seventh time, having previously produced two donkey sires, two foals with the typical 63 chromosomes of mules, and several horse stallions that had produced four foals. The three of the latter available for testing each bore 64 horse-like chromosomes. These foals phenotypically resembled horses, though they bore markings absent from the sire’s known lineages, and one had ears noticeably longer than those typical of her sire’s breed. The elder two horse-like foals had proved fertile at the time of publication, with their progeny being typical of horses.
The best documented fertile mule mare was “Krause,” who produced two male offspring when bred back to her own sire (biological father).
“Nebraska Mule Makes History”
They said it couldn’t be done but “Krause” did it! The young mule owned by the Arthur (Bill) Sylvester family, of Champion, Neb., foaled a healthy mule last July 6. The Sylvesters were as surprised as anyone.
Because of the extreme “once in a Blue Moon” odds under which such a phenomenon occurs, the Sylvesters named the new arrival Blue Moon. The birth of a mule results from the breeding of a mare horse with a male donkey (jack). Krause (Blue Moon’s mother) was produced on the Sylvester farm. Her mother is a Welsh mare pony named Annie, and her father a jack named Chester. Chester is a prolific jack who also is the father of the newborn mule Blue Moon. The Sylvesters permitted Chester to run with the mules because the females were thought to be infertile.
Because “everyone” knows that mules do not reproduce, you can imagine what Bill thought when he looked out in the pasture of mules to find what appeared to be a newborn colt. He told his son Kim they’d better head out to investigate. Sure enough, there was Krause, a two year old mule they had raised from birth, with a perfectly normal mule colt. The colorings and markings were almost identical to her mother.
When Blue Moon was born, the Sylvesters contacted Dr. Dave Johnsen, a local veterinarian, to have him vouch for the unusual birth. Within a short time, Dr. Kurt Benirschke, director of the Center for the Reproduction of Endangered Species at the San Diego Zoo, in California, was called to arrange for scientific testing and vertification. Dr. Johnsen was commissioned to take blood samples from Krause, the mother; Blue Moon, the foal; the grandmother, a Welsh pony mare (horse); and the father and grandfather, a jackass (male donkey). A horse is supposed to have 64 chromosomes, a donkey 62; and a mule 63.
Blood samples and other “technical testing” have verified that Blue Moon is indeed the first scientifically verified mule colt foaled from a molly mule. In mid-August, the Sylvesters received word from Dr. Benirschke with the big news: Krause is a true molly mule with 63 chromosomes and her new son Blue Moon is also a mule with 63 chromosomes. The father and grandfather is a verified jackass with 62 chromosomes, and the grandmother a true female horse with 64 chromosomes.
So what do you call the foal of a mule? The cross of a male horse and a jenny (female donkey) is called a hinny. Therefore, the cross of a jack and mule could logically be called a Jule. This would make Blue Moon a real “Jule”. Scientists will be studying Blue Moon carefully to test his capacity to reproduce as he matures. And Krause will be observed closely for the remainder of her life. Will she continue to beat the odds by producing more foals, or was her amazing fete truly “once in a Blue Moon?” Krause from Nebraska did foal twice by a jack with 2 mule-like foals, first with Blue Moon and then with White Lightning.
2003: U. of Idaho Reports Birth of Cloned Mule
By NICHOLAS K. GERANIOS, Associated Press Writer
SPOKANE – Two weeks after announcing the birth of the first cloned mule, the same research team said a second cloned mule with identical DNA has been born. The mule, named Utah Pioneer, was born natural and unassisted Monday morning. The male foal joined his brother, Idaho Gem, whose birth was announced May 29, as the only equine clones in the world. The clones are the result of work by researchers Gordon Woods and Dirk Vanderwall from the
University of Idaho and Ken White from Utah State University. Both cloned foals are siblings of Taz, a champion racing mule owned by Idaho businessman and mule enthusiast Don Jacklin of Post Falls, Idaho. The foals carry identical DNA from a fetal skin cell culture established five years ago at UI with Taz’s mother and father. Utah Pioneer weighed 78 pounds at birth, and “is healthy and already very active,” Woods said in a news release. The cloning team will again submit samples to a University of California Davis laboratory for independent verification, as was done with Idaho Gem. “He’s a male mule, and he looks like Idaho Gem,” Woods said.
Preliminary testing last year showed the method developed by the researchers to clone a mule should work equally well with a horse, something Woods said he plans to do. “This is an important birth because it provides repeatability to the project and strengthens the results,” White said. The May 4 birth of Idaho Gem, announced by Science magazine May 29, added mules to the barnyard of cloned animals that already included sheep, cows, pigs, cats and rodents. Mules are bred by mating a male donkey with a female horse. The breeding success is about the same as among horses alone. To clone the racing mule’s brother, researchers bred Taz’s parents, a jack donkey and a horse mare, and allowed the resulting fetus to grow for 45 days. This provided the DNA needed for the clone. The researchers then harvested eggs from horse mares. After removing the nucleus from each egg, the researchers inserted the DNA from the male fetal cells. The eggs were then placed into the wombs of female horses. Of 307 attempts, there were 21 pregnancies and three carried to full term. The third cloned mule is due in August. Jacklin paid $400,000 to finance the four-year mule cloning project.
To learn more about Meredith Hodges and her comprehensive all-breed equine training program, visit LuckyThreeRanch.com, MEREDITH HODGES PUBLIC FIGURE Facebook page, or call 1-800-816-7566. Check out her children’s website at JasperTheMule.com. Also, find Meredith on Pinterest, Instagram, MeWe, YouTube and Twitter.
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE, EQUUS REVISITED and A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES at www.luckythreeranchstore.com © 2024 Lucky Three Ranch, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
LTR Training Tip #3: Work Stations
Meredith gets a lot of letters and emails from people with training questions about their equines. Here, she discusses how to set up a work station for tack and grooming your equine.
LTR Training Tip #2: The Danger of Halters
Meredith gets a lot of letters and emails from people with training questions about their equines. Here, she talks about the dangers of leaving the halter on your equine, and some alternatives for catching them.
MULE CROSSING: Fine-Tuning the Rider
TRAINING MULES & DONKEYS
CHAPTER 27
Fine-Tuning the Rider
By Meredith Hodges
No training series would be complete without examining the principles and philosophy behind the training program. My philosophy is based on the principle that I am not, in fact, “training” donkeys and mules. Rather, I am cultivating relationships with them by assigning meaning to my body language that they can understand while I learn what they are trying to indicate to me with their body language.
In the same way that my own level of understanding changes and grows over time, I believe that my animals’ understanding grows, too. In the beginning, the emotional needs of a young mule are different from those of an older animal. The young mule needs to overcome many instincts that would protect him in the wild, but are inappropriate in a domestic situation. In a domestic situation, the focus must be on developing friendship and confidence in the young mule, while establishing my own
dominance in a non-threatening manner. This is accomplished through the use of a great deal of positive reinforcement early on, including gentle touches, a reassuring voice and lots of rewards for good behavior. Expressions of disapproval should be kept to a minimum and the negative reinforcement for bad behavior should be clear, concise and limited.
As your young mule grows and matures, he will realize that you do not wish to harm him. Next, he will develop a rather pushy attitude in an attempt to assert his own dominance (much like teenagers do with their parents), because he is now confident that this behavior is acceptable. When this occurs, reevaluate your reward system and save excessive praise for the new exercises as he learns them. Allow the learned behavior to be treated as the norm, and praise it more passively, yet still in an appreciative manner. This is the concept, from an emotional standpoint, of the delicate balance of give and take in a relationship. As in any good relationship, you must remain polite and considerate of your mule or donkey. After all, “You can catch more flies with sugar than you can with vinegar.”
Many details of both mule and trainer must also be considered from a physical standpoint. In the beginning, unless you are a professional trainer with years of proper schooling, you are not likely to be the most balanced and coordinated of riders, and you may lack absolute control over your body language. By the same token, the untrained mule will be lacking in the muscular coordination and strength it takes to respond to your request to perform certain movements. For these reasons, you must modify your approaches to fit each new situation, and then modify again to perfect it, keeping in mind that your main goal is to establish a good relationship with your mule and not just to train him. It is up to you, the trainer, to decide the cause of any resistance from your mule, and to modify techniques that will temper that resistance, whether it is mental or physical.
Here is an example: I had a three-year-old mule that was learning to lunge without the benefit of the round pen. The problem was that he refused to go around me more than a couple of times without running off. I first needed to assess the situation by brainstorming all the probable reasons why he might keep doing such an annoying thing. Is he frightened? Is he bored? Is he
mischievous? Has he been calm and accepting of most things until now? And, most important, is my own body language causing this to occur? Once I was willing to spend more time with regard to balance on the lead rope exercises and proceeded to the round pen to learn to balance on the circle, I soon discovered that developing good balance and posture was critical to a mule’s training. The reason my mule was pulling on the lunge line so hard was because he just could not balance his own body on a circle. Once I reviewed the leading exercises with him—keeping balance, posture and coordination in mind—and then went to the round pen to learn to balance on the circle, I noticed there was a lot less resistance to everything he was doing. I introduced the lunge line in the round pen and taught him how to circle with slack in the line. After that, lunging in the open arena on the lunge line was much easier and he did maintain the slack in the line while circling me.
Like humans, all animals are unique, and, like humans, each learns in his own way. Learn to be fair and flexible in your approach to problems. It is best to have a definite program that evolves in a logical and sequential manner that addresses your mule’s needs physically, mentally and emotionally. Be firm in your own convictions, but be sensitive to situations that can change, and be willing to make those changes as the occasion arises. This is what learning is all about for both you and your mule.
Just as mental changes occur, so do physical changes. As your mule’s muscles develop and coordination improves, you will need to do less and less to cause certain movements. For example, in the case of the leg-yield, you may have to turn your mule’s head a little too far in the opposite direction to get him to step sideways and forward. You will need to guide him more strongly with the reins and kick harder. As he becomes stronger and more coordinated, and begins to understand your aids, you can then start to straighten his body more toward the correct bend and stay quieter with your aids. Granted, you began by doing things the “wrong” way by over-bending your mule and by over-using your aids, yet you put your mule “on the road” to the right way. You assimilated an action in response to your leg that can now be perfected over time. In essence, you have simply told your mule, “First you must learn to move away from my leg, and then you can learn to do it gracefully.”
The same concept works in the case of the trainer or the rider. Sometimes you must do things that are not quite right in the
beginning to get your own body to assimilate correctness. In the beginning, a rider cannot “feel” the hind legs coming under his seat, so he needs to learn by watching the front legs moving forward along with his hands. With practice, the rider will develop the “feel” and will no longer need to watch the front legs moving forward. Remember, we all perceive things a little differently, and our perception depends on how we are introduced to something and on whether or not we can understand or perform a task.
It is nearly impossible for the inexperienced horseman to perceive and control unused seat bones as a viable means of controlling the mule. Reins and legs are much more prevalent. In order to help such a rider perceive their seat bones more clearly, it sometimes helps to start by involving the whole lower body. Earlier in this book, I suggested that, to begin facilitating this action, you pedal forward in conjunction with the front legs. Connecting this action with the front legs of the mule allows you to “see” something concrete with which you can coordinate, plus the pedaling encourages necessary independent movement in the seat bones from side to side and forward. When you begin to “feel” this sensation, you can begin to understand that when the foreleg comes back, the corresponding hind leg is coming forward under your seat bone. When you understand this, both mentally and physically, you can begin to pedal backward, which will cause you to be in even closer in synchronization with your mule’s body. As your leg muscles become more stable, actual movement in your own body becomes less, more emphasis is directed toward your center of gravity and more responsibility is placed on your seat bones. Using this approach, your muscles are put into active use and coordinated with your mule’s body through gymnastic exercises, which will eventually lead to correct position and effective cueing.
Achieving balance and harmony with your mule requires more than just balancing and conditioning your mule’s body. As you begin to finish-train your mule, you should shift your awareness more toward your own body. Your mule should already be moving forward fairly steadily and in a longer frame, and basically be obedient to your aids. The objective of finish-training is to build the muscles in your own body, which will cause your aids to become more effective and clearly defined. This involves shedding old habits and building new ones, which takes a lot of time and should not be approached with any impatience. Remember: there are no shortcuts. In order to stabilize your hands and upper body, you need to establish a firm base in your seat and legs. Ideally, you should be able to drop a plumb line from your ear to your shoulder, down through your hips, through your heels and to the ground. To maintain this plumb line, work to make your joints and muscles in your body more supple and flexible by using them correctly. Always look where you are going to keep your head in line with the rest of your body.
As you ride your mule through the walking exercise, try to stay soft, relaxed and forward in your inner thighs and seat bones. Get the sensation that your legs are cut off at the knees, and let your seat bones walk along with your mule, lightly and in rhythm with him behind his front legs. If he slows down, just bend your knees and bump him alternately with your legs below the knees, while you keep your seat and upper legs stable and moving forward. When collecting the walk on the short side, just bend both knees at the same time, bumping your mule simultaneously on both sides, while you squeeze the reins at the same time. Your legs should always have contact with your mule’s body in a light “hugging” fashion and real pressure should only come during the cues.
In order to help you stay over the middle of your mule’s back on the large circle, keep your eyes up and looking straight ahead. Shift your weight slightly to the outside stirrup, and feel it pull your inside leg snugly against your mule. Be sure that your outside leg stays in close to your mule’s barrel as you do this. On straight lines, keep your legs even, but on the arc, and look a little to the outside of the circle. This will bring your inside seat bone slightly forward, allowing your legs to be in the correct position for the circle. Note: This technique is particularly helpful during canter transitions.
Most people feel that they do not balance on the reins as much as they actually do. If you balance on the reins at all, your mule will be unable to achieve proper hindquarter engagement and ultimate balance. To help shift the weight from the hands and
upper body to the seat and legs, you can do a simple exercise: Put your mule on the rail at an active working walk. On the long side, drop your reins on his neck and feel your lower body connect with his body as you move along. You will need to tip your pelvis forward and stretch your abdominal muscles with each step in order to maintain your shoulder to hip plumb line. If your lower leg remains in the correct position, your thigh muscles will be stretched on the front of your leg from your hip to your knee. There is also a slight side-to-side motion as your mule moves forward that will cause your seat bones to move independently and alternately forward. There is no doubt that you can probably do this fairly easily right from the start, but to maintain this rhythm and body position without thinking about it takes time and repetition.
When you are fairly comfortable at the walk, you can add some variation at the trot. Begin at the posting trot on the rail. When your mule is going around in a fairly steady fashion, drop your reins on his neck and continue to post. As you post down the long side, keep your upper body erect and your pelvis rocking forward from your knee. Your knee should be bent so that your legs are positioned on the barrel of your mule. Raise your arms out in front of you, parallel to your shoulders. If your mule drifts away from the rail, you need to post with a little more weight in your outside stirrup. As you go around corners, be sure to turn your eyes a little to the outside of the circle to help maintain your position. As you approach the short side of the arena, bring your arms back, straight out from your shoulders, and keep your upper body erect. As you go through the corners, just rotate your arms and upper body slightly toward the outside of your circle. When you come to the next long side, once again bring your arms in front of and parallel to your shoulders, and repeat the exercise.
Notice the different pressure on your seat bones as you change your arm position. When your arms are forward it will somewhat lighten your seat, while having your arms to the side will tend to exert a little more pressure. Consequently, you can send your mule more forward with your seat as you go down the long sides. On the short sides, you can shorten that stride with a little added pressure from the seat bones. When you wish to halt, put your arms behind you at the small of your back to support an erect upper body, and let your weight drop down through your seat bones and legs to total relaxation and an entire halting of movement. Remember to use your verbal commands—especially in the beginning—to clarify your aids to your mule. If your mule doesn’t stop, just reach down and give a gentle tug on the reins until he stops. Before long, he will begin to make the connection between your seat and your command to “Whoa,” and your seat will take precedence over your reins.
When you and your mule have become adept at the walk and the trot, add the canter. At the canter, however, keep your arms out to the side and rotate them in small backward circles in rhythm with the canter. Be sure to sit back and allow only your pelvis, your seat and your thighs to stretch forward with the canter stride. Keep your upper body erect and your lower leg stable from the knee down. Once your mule has learned to differentiate seat and leg aids in each gait and through the transitions on the large circle, you can begin to work on directional changes through the cones.
As you practice these exercises, you will soon discover how even the slightest shift of balance can affect your mule’s performance. By riding without your reins and making the necessary adjustments in your body, you will begin to condition your own muscles to work in harmony with those of your mule. As your muscles get stronger and more responsive, you will cultivate more harmony and balance with your mule. As you learn to ride more “by the seat of your pants,” you will encounter less resistance in your mule, because most resistance is initiated by “bad hands” due to an unstable seat. As you learn to vary the pressure in your seat accordingly, you will also encounter less resistance in your mule through his back. Having a secure seat will help to stabilize your hands and make rein cues much more clear to your mule. The stability in your lower leg will also give him a clearer path to follow between your aids.
To learn more about Meredith Hodges and her comprehensive all-breed equine training program, visit LuckyThreeRanch.com, MEREDITH HODGES PUBLIC FIGURE Facebook page, or call 1-800-816-7566. Check out her children’s website at JasperTheMule.com. Also, find Meredith on Pinterest, Instagram, MeWe, YouTube and Twitter.
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE, EQUUS REVISITED and A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.
© 2024 Lucky Three Ranch, Inc. All rights reserved.
MULE CROSSING: Learning to Stand Still for Mounting
By Meredith Hodges
Equines need clear and consistent handling practices. Teaching an equine to stand still should not just be trained as a singular task. In order to change behaviors such that they become repeated as new habitual behaviors, one needs to be logical, sequential and consistent in our own behaviors. New behaviors need to be strung together in a logical, progressive sequence and then practiced EXACTLY the same way ALL the time.
Training begins with nutrition and the way your equine is fed. An equine that is fed at a specific time each day is far less stressed than those with inconsistent feeding times and will learn easier. What you feed and how is critical. The equine should ALWAYS be asked to stand still with a verbal WHOA and required to remain back when you open a door, or a gate, until they are asked to WALK ON.
The Lucky Three equines are ALL trained to come when they are called, stand back to wait their turn when coming through the gates and turn around to have their halters put on easily upon request. When these habits are asked consistently, the same way every time, they become HABITUAL behavior. Be cognizant that your own body language and movements are consistent as well. If you ask your equine to WHOA and you keep moving, your example is at odds with what you are asking them to do.
The Lucky Three mules willingly come off the grass pasture at any time of the day when they are beckoned. This is the result of routine management, humane training practices, with a prompt and generous reward system. Not one of our equines is herd-bound as we do not play favorites, we reward everyone for good behavior and we do not ask more than they are physically able to give. We have slowly built deep friendships with them that exceed their relationships with their equine buddies!
Training consists of a logical and sequential way to approach physical conditioning so that we build their bodies with postural balance and core strength in mind. This assures that their physical foundation is adequate to support all the tasks that we might ask from them.
We begin training with Leading Exercises in our postural aid we call the Elbow Pull executed in the Hourglass Pattern. The pattern has designated places where they are asked to halt, square up and are given a crimped oats reward. We wait until they finish chewing the oats before we ask for another movement. This will alleviate any anxiety and is their first real introduction to learning how to stand absolutely still upon request. They are grateful for this personal consideration which greatly improves their mental attitude. Each animal is continually assessed throughout training and the approach is modified according to their individual needs. Being fair, respectful, clear and consistent in handling practices with a carefully planned REWARD system –without bribery or indiscriminant treats – will enhance the pleasure and safety that you will experience during interaction with your equine! Anxiety and resistance is always kept to the bare minimum!
The next introduction to standing still will take place during their Ground Driving exercises. At first, they will again be driven through the Hourglass Pattern in the Elbow Pull postural aid with the verbal command to WHOA for all the designated halts and squaring up. You will put the lines across their rump, walk to the front, and give them their crimped oats reward. Then resume your position behind them and stand absolutely still while they chew their oats. Only allow them to go forward when you give the verbal command to WALK ON.
As they become stronger in their core strength and are able to hold their good equine posture, you can add obstacles to the lessons. First teach them to go straight through the obstacles
with periodic halts, again squaring them up, rewarding and waiting for them to finish chewing before giving the command to WALK ON. Then, repeat the obstacle lessons with strategic halts in the middle of the obstacles while asking them to stand absolutely still. You will eventually be able to phase out the Elbow Pull postural aid.
The next lessons will take place at the Work Station. Go through your usual grooming and saddling routine. Tack up as illustrated in Training Mules and Donkeys DVD #2. Check your animal’s girth to make sure it’s snug enough. You should barely be able to slide your hand between your equine’s side and the girth. Be careful of getting the girth too tight!
Ask your equine to stand quietly while you grasp the saddle at the horn 9Or mane at the withers) and cantle. Put your foot in the stirrup and boost yourself to a standing position at his side. Carefully, lean over his back, talking and petting him until he gets used to your new position. Be sure to reward him from his back on each side.
Slowly get down, go to the other side and repeat the exercise. Initially, you may mount your mule, or donkey, at the work station. First mount horses in the Round Pen where there is no ceiling overhead. Your goal is to get your equine to be at ease with you putting your foot in the stirrup, and lifting yourself over his back. Get him used to weight in the stirrups, the feel of the saddle and some weight on his back.
When he’s calm with this exercise, go to the Round Pen. I prefer to do this preliminary work in an English saddle. It is lighter, easier to handle and less intimidating to the animal.
However, you may prefer to use a Western saddle the first few times you mount in
the Round Pen. The stirrups are larger, it’s more stable and the saddle horn might come in handy. Choose the saddle in which you feel most secure.
It’s best to have someone helping you for the next stage in saddle training, so ask a friend to act as your assistant. Have your assistant stand quietly at the mule’s head, but not actually hold him—you have control with your reins.
Your assistant will stand by for safety only and will give the illusion to your animal that he is still just to be lunged, only now with a rider.
Ask your equine to stand quietly with soothing verbal communication. Grasp the saddle at the horn 9or mane at the withers) and cantle, and then boost yourself into a standing position at his side with your foot in the stirrup.
If he spooks, or bolts, just let go of the saddle, but maintain your hold on the left
rein so you don’t lose him. Have your assistant allow him slack with the line she (or he) is holding. Quietly, and firmly, ask him to “Whoa,” get organized and try it again.
Hang off the saddle on the near side and run your hands all over the far side of his
body. Do this on both sides. Add swinging your leg over his back. Stay low with your upper body, leaning forward on both sides. Make him pay attention to you by offering the oats reward from each side.
When you mount, drag your right leg firmly against his body. Move your leg gently up his hip, over his rump and down the other side to the stirrup. Don’t plop down like a sack of potatoes! Settle slowly and quietly into the saddle. Dismount on the opposite side from which you mounted each time.
Rock your weight from side to side and let him feel how the saddle moves on his back. Continually reassure him during this procedure by firmly, but gently, touching him all over his body (See IMPRINTING BEYOND BIRTH under TRAINING/MULE CROSSING on my website at www.luckythreeranch.com). Lean forward and ask him to take oats from your hand on both sides to make sure he is aware of where you are on his back. The more movement he can tolerate while standing still and the calmer he is taking the oats from your hand, the better he will do later.
Do only as much of this in any one lesson as he can easily tolerate. Always try to end your lessons on a positive note, and do not get in too much of a hurry—that’s usually where the trouble begins.
Then it is time to get him used to the mounting block in the Round Pen. Do things exactly the same way you have done, in the same order, complete with offering the oats reward from his back on both sides. When he finally stands absolutely still, reward him lavishly and then put him away. With each new lesson review the previous lesson and add a little more to it each time as you are able.
In order to keep your equine calm, and for the sake of safety, to avoid getting your foot caught in a stirrup and run the risk of having your mule drag you, each time you dismount always take both of your feet out of the stirrups.
With one foot still in the stirrup, you’d be in an awkward position. If your equine becomes frightened and shies away, your foot could get stuck in the stirrup and you’d be in big trouble. Practicing good technique will keep you and your equine safe and comfortable during all lessons.
By the time your equine is ready for the open arena or the trail, he will clearly know the meaning of WHOA and will learn to be patient and wait for your command to WALK ON. You will be able to halt him at any time with confidence about his absolute obedience. Too many of us get in a hurry to just get on and go.
When you take the time to go through this process, however slow it might seem, it can save you a lot of potential harm that could result in some pretty extraordinary doctor bills and vet bills for you and your equine. Speeding up, slowing down, halting and backing becomes a representation of your ultimate mutual cooperation with each other!
To learn more about Meredith Hodges and her comprehensive all-breed equine training program, visit LuckyThreeRanch.com, MEREDITH HODGES PUBLIC FIGURE Facebook page, or call 1-800-816-7566. Check out her children’s website at JasperTheMule.com. Also, find Meredith on Pinterest, Instagram, MeWe, YouTube and Twitter.
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE and EQUUS REVISITED at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.
© 2024 Lucky Three Ranch, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
MULE CROSSING: So You Think You Want a Mule?
By Meredith Hodges
It was bad enough before computers and cell phones when people thought they wanted a horse and could realistically have one. They thought if they had a little patch of grass and a fence around it, it would be enough to keep a horse. They never thought about shelter, feed (they could just eat the grass!), vet and farrier care, and about a dozen other things that it takes to maintain an equine.
Those who indulged themselves and bought a horse under those conditions soon found out that keeping an equine was a bit more than they bargained for! If they got the equine for FREE, that was even better…NOT! If they got them cheap, it was GREAT…NOT! If they got them cheap from the Kill Pens and rescued them, Oh, how compassionate they thought they were being! If they didn’t have a small patch of grass, but really wanted a horse, a Boarding Stable was the perfect option provided that the price was right! They would have the privilege of riding with their friends! Boarding Stables with limited exposure to their owners is not good for mules or donkeys, and are even worse for Boarding Stable employees that need to deal with them on a daily basis. Monitoring their feed in a healthy way at a Boarding Stable is next to impossible because they want to feed ALL the equines the same way, no matter what you write for them on a stable sign.

Cindy and I talked about the “Good Old Days” when we used to live on a ranch, had horses and could be gone all day riding with our friends! Today, our lives are so easy and require no experience to have the knowledge that you can now hold in your hand! The value of EXPERIENCE is diminished until you get hurt! There were so many things that we learned by having the full responsibility of cleaning pens, feeding, grooming, tacking up our own horses and then riding in so many different situations. One really LEARNED how to make decisions and analyze the knowledge that we gleaned. We soon learned the approaches and things that we could do SAFELY, and that kept our experiences happy and joyful! We KNEW it would cost a minimum of $5000.00/year to maintain and train our equines! Our relationships with our equines were good and they were able to teach us WELL!
When one grows up with all things done FOR them, one loses the benefits of all those lessons that Cindy and I were able to learn. Our lives were truly filed with the love and joy we got from being with our equines, and even more, the challenges that were put before us to be BETTER. That enhanced everything we did with our animals! It made us more curious and willing to ask questions of all kinds of people that knew more than we did…and we learned so much MORE! We learned about who to trust and who we should consider suspect. We heard all about the Horse Traders and discovered the differences between them, and the differences between honest people that were also selling equines.

If you do get an animal that you are not compatible with and you want to sell him to someone else, be careful about how you do that. It is good to advertise, but know what you are talking about. If you get in a situation where you can not longer afford to take care of the animal(s) you have, be careful what you do, or it can break your heart! The first thing to do is to ask around with people you know and see if anyone can take your animal. If not, then advertise in equine publications, or on the internet, and see if there is any interest there.
If the last resort is putting them in an auction…BEWARE! You might get stopped with your truck and trailer in the parking lot and a dealer that offers to take them off your hands right there! If you are tight for cash and looking for a convenient fix to your problem, you might think this is a great deal, but this is what KILLER BUYERS do!!!
When you are looking for an equine, don’t be afraid to talk to a lot of people, starting with people that you know are good horsemen. If they don’t have anything for sale, ask for credible references. You can usually find a lot of knowledgeable people at shows, fairs and exhibitions, but beware of what they tell you and remember that they want to SELL the animal and they know nothing about your riding ability and in most cases, they don’t care.
We learned to watch the animals at the auctions and the way they were being presented. Don’t be afraid to ask WHY they are being sold! Were they truly calm and well-trained, or were they drugged and would be quite different when they were taken home? It wasn’t hard after a while, to tell the difference among who the really good trainers were and those who “faked it” for a sale. It was even important to know the difference among trainers in case you would need help after purchasing your equine. Is the seller a true MULE PERSON?
It is important to know what kind of person YOU are (and be honest…quick temper?) before you decide what kind of equine you want to have. Research all it takes to maintain the different kinds of equines (small, large, active, docile, etc.) and whether their conformation is going to be sound enough for what you want to do with them. Ask a professional if your assumptions (and that IS what they are when you are ignorant about equines…assumptions!) are correct and sound, and will they work the way you would like them to work. Is this going to be the horse, or mule, for YOU!
The nice thing about buying a mule is that THEY will decide whether or not they like YOU! If they are not attracted to you…forget that mule! If you do find a mule that seems to be attracted to you and comes right up to you…he might be THE ONE! Then it is time to get a vet to help with a pre-purchase exam to make sure he is sound. Lots can be hidden with drugs, so take your time with this and give any drugs time to wear off. Have your vet and farrier do exams on the hooves to make sure the equine has not been “nerved.” When an equine has been “nerved,” their unsoundness can be hidden for months and years.

When you do think you have found that ideal mule, don’t be averse to asking the seller for a trial period, usually for a month to make sure things were not overlooked. This should be clearly stated in a contract between the buyer and the seller with stipulations about how things will be handled with the animal to keep him safe. You must assure the buyer that your facility would not be injurious to the animal and that he will be properly maintained. It is helpful to include acceptable surprise visits by the seller if he has any concerns at all.
If you hire a trainer and show your mule, be sure to have a clear contract with that trainer about expectations. Be sure to have a legal Power of Attorney drawn up in case of accidents that will clearly state how the animal is to be handled should something happen to you. The trainer should always be paid up in full and the animal should never be used for collateral for non-payment. As a rule, I only allow supervised youth riders on my mules for specific youth classes at shows. It is not a good idea to let anyone else ride your mule. I find that their relationships are VERY specific to the people they love! HAPPY TRAILS!
If you would like to have more information about buying and selling equines, I suggest you purchase Cindy Roberts’ book, HOW TO BUY A MULE & NOT GET SCREWED. It is an excellent resource for this kind of information. And, if you want to know as much as you can about Longears, take a look at all the books and videos that I have available both in the STORE and the FREE information under TRAINING on my website at www.luckythreeranch.com
To learn more about Meredith Hodges and her comprehensive all-breed equine training program, visit LuckyThreeRanch.com, MEREDITH HODGES PUBLIC FIGURE Facebook page, or call 1-800-816-7566. Check out her children’s website at JasperTheMule.com. Also, find Meredith on Pinterest, Instagram, MeWe, YouTube and Twitter.
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE, EQUINE MANAGEMENT & DONKEY TRAINING, EQUUS REVISITED and A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.
© 2024 Lucky Three Ranch, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
CHASITY’S CHALLENGES: Introduction
CHASITY is a Large Standard, 13 year old spotted jennet that we bought in 2020 to be a companion for our Large Standard gelding donkey, Wrangler, after he lost his mule friend in March of 2020. She came to us with lots of challenging health issues, but we are no strangers to that with our past rescues. When we have a case like this, we like to share our approach and the solutions we discover while consulting with our professional team of experts. We hope these LTR website diaries can help you to find solutions to the problems that you might face with your own Longears!


hygiene and health of your equines. Regular grooming once a week to remove excess hair, mud, etc. will eliminate places on the animal, including legs that would be subject to insects laying eggs. If certain body areas begin to get sores, scabs, or bumps, use Neosporin, or if they are severe…Panalog, also called Animax or Dermalone (by prescription from your vet). Clean the eyes, ears and nostrils every time during grooming and fly spray the hairs inside the ears for the best bug-block after cleaning.
In order to keep flies and other insects under control, all stalls, runs and pens need to be kept free of manure and debris daily. Barns should be cleaned periodically with disinfectant. Keep all stalls, pens and sheds free of urine and manure (clean at least once a day, every day!). This includes larger dirt pen turnout areas weekly. You shouldn’t need to use any PDZ or chemicals at all if cleaned properly. For good drainage in stalls, we drill a 2’ x 4’ deep hole in the middle of the stall and fill it with 1 ½” rock. Then we put down 4” of pea gravel throughout the whole stall and cover with rubber mats.
Clean any manure from shed or stall walls daily. Power wash stall walls and alleyways as needed.