Kyle Davidson
Posts by Kyle Davidson:
MULE CROSSING: Donkey Training, Part 8
By Meredith Hodges
Now it is time for your donkey to learn to move laterally. Lateral movements are essential to the overall balance and posture of your donkey. It will improve muscle strength throughout his body and will reduce the risk of injury or soreness while he is being ridden or driven.
You can begin his lateral work on the drivelines in the large arena. Begin by driving your donkey through the hourglass pattern (after review). As he approaches the first corner cone, ask him to circle it and then turn down the centerline instead of moving down the short side to the next cone. Let him move straight for a few steps, and then, with your assistant at his head, ask him to move forward and sideways away from your circle. The centrifugal force from the circle should send him onto the diagonal with little resistance and your assistant will be in front to keep him from just running forward. If he is to move laterally to the right, you should make a small circle to the left and drift out and onto the right diagonal. If he is to move laterally to the left, you should circle to the right and allow him to drift out and onto the left diagonal. As your donkey is on the circle, maintain the bend with a shortened inside rein. As he comes up the centerline, maintain the bend as he moves forward on the straight line, then begin to give distinct pulls and releases on the outside rein to encourage him to follow it, and back this up with a light tap of the whip on his opposite hip if he does not begin to move diagonally. As he begins to walk diagonally, so should you—step for step. Pull the outside rein in unison with his front legs, pulling back when the outside leg comes back, allowing freedom for the front leg that is to cross over. It takes a little coordination, so don’t be discouraged if things aren’t working well the first few times. Just keep practicing and you will eventually get it, and so will your donkey!
As he gets better at the lateral walk this way, you can add various patterns, which will increase his lateral response. And above all, do not forget those verbal commands: “Haw-over” for left and “Gee-over” for right. You have made it easy for him by asking him to perform the lateral response out of the circle. Another circular lateral response is the spiral. Have him walk in a large circle and spiral down to a very small circle. Then ask him to gradually work back onto the larger circle again by spiraling out in a yielding fashion. Watch his legs to make sure he is crossing over properly.
Now it is time for him to listen even more carefully to your rein and whip cues. You will begin to ask him to change his bend for you before he moves laterally. Walk the perimeter of the arena and this time, you will circle on the second corner. When he has completed the circle and his nose comes to the diagonal track, ask him to halt and move his hindquarters over until he is parallel to the long-side rail. Then give the proper cues for the direction in which you wish to travel, as designated earlier. This exercise helps promote good listening skills on the part of your donkey and more increased coordination for yourself. There are several different variations on this theme. The first time you will want to cross the long diagonal (see diagram), allowing your donkey all the time he will need to complete the lateral exercise with the least amount of angle.
As he becomes more adept, you can teach your donkey to cross the short diagonal from the corner to the middle of the long side of your arena. Then proceed straight through the next corner to the second cone and repeat (see diagram).Always be sure to stop, correct the bend, and then proceed—one step at a time if necessary. He can learn to cross two short diagonals by circling at the middle of the rail on the long side after the first short diagonal, then proceeding laterally to the corner. Two short diagonals would create a change of lateral direction, so be sure to execute your cues very concisely with pauses between your transitions. Circle, halt, move hindquarters, move laterally, halt at the center of the long side, change to the bend of the new circle, complete circle, halt, move hindquarters, move laterally. Take it one segment at a time, one step at a time.
Next you will ask him to move laterally through the hourglass pattern, with a change of direction in the center of the arena. Move into the short side of the arena, pass the first cone and go on to the second corner. Circle at the second cone and halt, move his hindquarters over until he is parallel to the long side then proceed laterally to the center cone gate. At the gate, circle around the cone nearest the rail from which you began, halt, move his hindquarters and continue laterally to the next corner, which should be on the same long side on which you started (see diagram). Continue around the cone, across the short side to the next cone, and repeat as before to complete the hourglass. Use an assistant to help direct your donkey in the beginning and fade out the assistant as your donkey understands and complies with your wishes. Do all of these exercises at the walk until he is impeccable. Then you can drive him through them at the trot with slows and halts in appropriate places.
If your donkey is large enough and seems to react better when you are in the saddle, you can begin these exercises mounted and teach him the ground-driving afterwards. Donkeys are very different in the way they each learn. The other consideration is your own skills. Handling drivelines is sometimes really tricky and you may be better with reins, legs and a crop than you are with drivelines and a whip. The important thing is that you give your donkey a clear message as to what is expected, so he can learn easily and without resistance. Just remember that, when you are riding, your cues need to be just as clear as they are when you drive him. You need to tell him verbally what is expected at each segment of the exercise and make clear pauses through transitions. Use your assistant whenever necessary to 
minimize resistance at any particular stage and reward your donkey lavishly for his honest attempts.
Once he has learned to drive and ride laterally in the arena, you can take your donkey to the obstacle course to put these movements to work. Begin with your assistant aiding you first in side-passing a log placed near the fence (to discourage your donkey from going forward), then a log in the open and side-passing a “T.” Try backing through two barrels in a figure-eight pattern using turns on the forehand and haunches to negotiate the pattern. Finally, teach him to move appropriately while you are opening and closing a gate, both on the drivelines and under saddle. Once he gets the idea on each obstacle, you can eliminate the assistant and ask him to take more responsibility for himself. He should be able to do everything he learns both under saddle and on the drivelines. There is no rule as to which he needs to learn first, but he should learn both under saddle and on the drivelines to be as responsive as he can possibly be, either in harness or under saddle.
To learn more about Meredith Hodges and her comprehensive all-breed equine training program, visit LuckyThreeRanch.com, MEREDITH HODGES PUBLIC FIGURE Facebook page, or call 1-800-816-7566. Check out her children’s website at JasperTheMule.com. Also, find Meredith on Pinterest, Instagram, MeWe, YouTube and Twitter.
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE and EQUUS REVISITED at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.
© 1999, 2016, 2024 Lucky Three Ranch, Inc. All rights reserved.
MULE CROSSING: Donkey Training, Part 7
By Meredith Hodges
If your donkey has any problems with the trot after the previously described exercises, it will probably be in the hourglass pattern while under saddle. If he has difficulty maintaining the trot through the turns and serpentines through the middle, and continues to bulge either one way or the other, you can try one more thing to help him. Have your assistant ride a seasoned animal through the pattern ahead of you while you follow a few strides behind. Don’t ride too close, or too far away. Your donkey should be more than willing to follow. After all, doing things with friends is always more appealing.
When his trot work is going well, it is time for your donkey to learn to canter. Begin with a complete review in the round pen—lunging at the walk and trot, ground-driving at the walk and trot, turns at the walk and trot, and riding 
at the walk and trot. Then dismount and try lunging, first at the trot, then ask him to “Canter.” Use the same cues you did at the walk and trot. Give the verbal command first, then shuffle your feet while raising both of your arms, one pointing in the direction in which you wish to travel, and the other one raised behind you, with the whip in-hand. If he does not comply, then lightly tap the whip to his gaskins once just above the hock, then tap it harder on the fence behind him. He should begin to canter. Even if he canters only two steps, stop him, reward him and then try again. Don’t keep asking for more right away, because he will only get frustrated and stop. If you are patient and consistent, he will canter farther each time. Once he canters fairly well while lunging, you can skip ground-driving and go straight to riding him at the canter. Have your assistant stand in the center of the round pen with the lunge whip and “lunge” him while you ride and cue from his back. Sit very quietly and with a very loose rein, allowing him to canter until you say “Whoa.” Make sure you and your assistant are exactly in unison with your verbal commands, since you do not want to confuse the donkey. If, after a few sessions, he positively refuses to canter, fear not. You can try something else first, and come back to cantering later.
If your donkey hasn’t cantered in the round pen, go back to his lesson at the trot and allow him to succeed and be rewarded. Then take him into the large arena and allow him to follow an experienced animal through the hourglass pattern and along the perimeter of the arena at the walk and trot. Afterwards, go to the perimeter of the arena and have your assistant begin to canter out of a short side and down the long side. Encourage your donkey to follow. If he does not want to canter, slow him down through the short side and encourage him again on the next long side. If he wants to canter but is cutting the corner, let him. It is more important at this stage to get the canter than it is to stay on the rail. Be sure to call out your verbal commands repetitively as he learns to canter. You will say “Canter-Gee” for right and “Canter-Haw” for left. These are really important commands, as donkeys are more responsive to verbal commands than they are to your legs and reins. Let him canter for as long as he will, then stop and reward him. He will go longer periods of time as he gains strength and coordination. Make your circles as large as possible, at least fifty feet in diameter.
When he is cantering—or loping—easily around the arena, you can begin to facilitate control at the canter by varying your exercises. Have him trot the short sides and canter the long sides of the perimeter of the arena. Be sure he is picking up the proper lead in each direction (more on leads in discs #5 and #6 of my DVD training series, Training Mules and Donkeys). Pick up the lead in the corner each time to help him. Then you can trot the hourglass to the corner of the short side, pick up the canter and canter a circle, half of the arena, come back where you started, trot, and resume the pattern. Just be sure your circles are large enough to encourage good balance. You can ask him to trot along the rail, do a turn on the haunches and canter away on the correct lead. This will help him to learn to canter without the use of a corner. Take him out into the open on the obstacle course and let him canter for some longer distances, both in a straight line and in very large circles. If he breaks to the trot at any time during any of the aforementioned exercises, do not let him continue on at a fast trot. Slow him to the walk, then halt, regroup and begin again. You want to always maintain control.
As your donkey canters more and more, he will become better balanced and better coordinated. He will become stronger and be able to carry the canter for longer periods of time, so don’t get in a hurry. He will DO as he is ABLE. This is the nature of the donkey. When he is cantering easily and is obedient through his transitions from walk to trot to canter and from canter to trot to walk, you can begin to teach him to change leads and negotiate smaller circles. Begin in the large arena and review his previous lessons, ending with turns on the haunches along the rail. Designate a circle in the middle of your arena, and, starting along the rail, pick up a canter, make a full circle, ride along the rail a short distance, then ask him to stop, do a turn on the haunches into the rail and resume the canter on a circle the opposite direction and repeat. This will help him to be more prompt into the canter.
Next, you will circle at one end of the arena, taking up half of the space. After about two or three circles, straighten your donkey as he rounds toward the middle of the arena. Ask him to trot through the center on a straight line, then pick up the opposite lead and circle once or twice in the other half of the arena. Ask him to “Canter-Gee,” “Canter-Gee,” “Canter-Gee,” and “Trot-Trot.” “Trot-Trot,” and “Canter-Haw,” “Canter-Haw,” and so on. If he misses the change of lead, just stop him and start again, only this time, bring him to a walk in the middle, then pick up the trot and canter as you round the new bend. If he gets strong and tries to rush, you may even have to stop him in the middle, walk, then trot, then canter on the new bend. Remember, you do not want to teach your donkey to run through any of your cues! That’s a really tough habit to break. Don’t canter for too long and be sure to reward him after every lead change at the end of at least one circle following the change. Neither do you want him to change leads and stop.
The most important thing is to reinforce the verbal commands. Donkeys can be very dead-mouthed and very dead-sided, but they have the most acute hearing you’ll ever perceive and they rarely miss a verbal command. If your donkey is well schooled in his verbal commands, you will never need to set him up for his lead changes—he will always take the one you call for, even if it is a counter-canter. The same goes for every other command. If you want to stop and he is cantering, don’t forget to speak in order: “Canter, Canter, Trot, Trot, Walk and Whoa!” If you say “Canter,” then just “Whoa,” you will produce a sloppy and resistant transition, since donkeys aren’t into sliding stops, although they can do small sliding stops (Lucky Three’s Little Jack Horner was able to slide for fifteen feet). Even professional reining trainers will tell you that an equine has only so many good stops in him, and it is not advisable to do such strenuous and abrupt movements too often. So be concise with your verbal commands and try not to leave any out when “conversing” with your donkey.
While in the open, after he is getting more adept at the canter and he’s changing leads fairly easily and accurately, you can begin to teach him to change leads on a straight line. You will need a large open area, as you will be doing fairly big circles off each side of the straight line. Step One: Begin at walk, then trot (don’t forget your verbal commands!), then canter-haw, small circle, then straight for a few steps, trot-trot, then canter-gee, small circle, straighten, and repeat on the straight line. . Step Two: Ask for the new lead without the circle. If he starts rushing and ignoring your aids, just have him come down to walk, then trot, then canter again. If he doesn’t quite get it, go back to the exercise with the circles. You can add an interim step, provided he does not get too bent. You can begin on the straight line at the canter, ask for the trot and slightly bend him onto a new circle, then bend him back to the straight line once he has the lead. Be careful with this, though. If he is too committed to the circle, you can throw him off balance and defeat your purpose.
Now you can go back to the round pen and lunge at the canter. Many times, donkeys are just not comfortable with the size of a round pen canter circle. It seems to worry them because they are so sensitive to even the slightest loss of balance when trying to perform. I think you will find that your donkey, after learning to canter in a more open space, is more than willing to accommodate you in the round pen. By the same token, we have not bothered with the lunge line in the round pen and in the open for the same reason. After your donkey is sufficiently broke to saddle or harness or both, he will lunge very nicely on the lunge line.
To learn more about Meredith Hodges and her comprehensive all-breed equine training program, visit LuckyThreeRanch.com, MEREDITH HODGES PUBLIC FIGURE Facebook page, or call 1-800-816-7566. Check out her children’s website at JasperTheMule.com. Also, find Meredith on Pinterest, Instagram, MeWe, YouTube and Twitter.
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE and EQUUS REVISITED at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.
© 1999, 2016, 2024 Lucky Three Ranch, Inc. All rights reserved.
Core Muscle Strength Promotes Longevity
(Page 21) Do you know what your saddle is sitting on anatomically? The equine spine has fragile “spinous processes” that extend upward from the vertebrae like “fingers” that are covered only by the “Supraspinous ligament,” connective tissue and top line muscling that run the length of the top line from the “Nuchal ligament” and lamina that supports the neck. The equine spine is naturally designed to carry weight underneath and not necessarily on top. At 29 years old, AQHA stallion Kip Dee Beau exhibits the top line and core muscling that has given him greater strength, balance, health and longevity. See how the spine melds into the barrel on 32 year old, Large Standard donkey, Lucky Three Little Jack Horner, and 10 year old mini donkeys, Augie and Spuds. There will be no definition between the spine and barrel when there is adequate core muscle development. Even miniature mules and miniature horses can have this smooth appearance across the topline as with 17 year old mini mule, Lucky Three Francis. Without proper core strength exercises to strengthen the muscles that support the top line (and the weight of the rider) before actually riding, your equine could easily be put at risk and injured by something as simple as incorrect mounting and/or irregular exercise. Core strength exercises not only symmetrically develop the system of elements that support the spine, but they also enable the animal to perform efficiently in good posture, whether riding or driving. Have you ever experienced a “crick” in your neck, or back, and didn’t even know how it happened? Equines can experience these same kinds of issues. When their training does not address these core elements that support the skeletal frame, riding them can cause these kinds of problems. We cover how to develop the core in good equine balance in our EQUUS REVISITED Manual/DVD combo and in our TRAINING TIPS. We have even more detailed articles about our whole program under MULE CROSSING. Check out lots of helpful information to enhance your management and training program under TRAINING and in our STORE on my website at www.luckythreeranch.com. Please feel free to contact me at any time at meredith@luckythreeranch.com with any questions or concerns.
Hearts & Horses Virtual Tour
Haven’t made it out to the Hearts & Horses ranch yet? Here’s your chance, thanks to our brand new virtual tour! Discover all of the state-of-the-art facilities designed to heal minds, bodies, and spirits at our 23-acre ranch in Loveland, Colorado.
MULE TALK! PODCAST: Keys to Successful Training Part 2
Keys to Successful Training Part 2 –
- Establishing a bond.
- Feeding.
- Consideration
- Structured exercises.
- Body language and verbal communication.
- Benefits of group lessons.
- Take lessons periodically to stay on track to improve your own skills.
- Lists of trainers and instructors can be obtained from the United States Equestrian Federation and the American Donkey & Mule Society.
Follow along: Read the transcript
Learn more on Mule Talk podcast.
For more training info: www.LuckyThreeRanch.Com and click on the Training tab.
Mule Talk is an Every Cowgirl’s Dream production – www.EveryCowgirlsDream.Com
Side Reins vs. “Elbow Pull”
(Pg. 20, 9-26-16) When I first began training equines, I used “Side Reins” to help my Longears to collect their bodies for optimum use in the Round Pen after leading training for correct postural core strength in the Hourglass Pattern, but it didn’t take me long to realize that there were serious issues with the “Side Reins.” First, the “Side Reins” seemed to cause tension throughout the body instead of producing freedom of movement in good equine posture. “Side Reins” did produce flexion at the poll, but the hind quarters were only partially engaged and were still being somewhat “trailered” behind. The moderate stretch in the “Side Reins” invited my Longears to pull against them resulting in the saddle slipping forward even with the crupper snugly attached, causing the mule or donkey to raise his head instead of relaxing and “giving” at the poll with no tension. And, it did not allow for much freedom of motion. The “Elbow Pull” alleviates all of these issues and produces the freedom of movement in good equine posture that I sought. The “Elbow Pull” is NOT a “Tie Down” or “Draw Reins,” and does not produce the same reaction from the equine. Rather, it is a “POSTURAL AID” that helps them to keep their whole body in good posture during lessons with leading, lunging, ground driving and even riding. It allows the equine to raise his head above the withers with full freedom of movement. They can lower their head and neck all the way to the ground, and as far as they can reach from side to side. It only restricts them from raising their head so high that they hollow their neck and back. Breeds that like to carry their heads higher like Saddlebreds, Tennessee Walkers, Arabians, Thoroughbreds and other “high-headed” individuals can still be quite comfortable in this postural AID (or restraint). My equines gained postural balance with increased core strength in the elements that support the skeletal frame during the leading exercises, and showed increased range of motion with the “Elbow Pull.” They were better able to step well underneath their bodies with their hind quarters for increased impulsion and suspension. They learned to execute turns and pivots properly, staying in good posture through the turns while properly placing their hind quarter pivot foot.
They were better able to collect their bodies for a smooth and truly remarkable ride during more collected demands, such as the very slow Western Pleasure walk, trot and canter, and in the more collected gaits with the added impulsion and movements of Dressage. This freedom of movement has produced amazing versatility in my equines with minimal resistance and has created multiple Lucky Three Ranch champions in all kinds of equine activities, but you must do the correct postural leading exercises in the very beginning before putting the “Elbow Pull” to other uses for the best results. If your equine is over two years old, it is advisable to do the leading exercises in the Hourglass Pattern WITH the “Elbow PULL.” Animals under 2 years will not need this kind of restraint until later. Give your equine the athletic edge and make your training experience resistance free! Peruse our website at www.luckythreeranch.com and look in the various sections under TRAINING and in the STORE for reliable management and training information. How to make the “Elbow Pull” is covered in my EQUUS REVISITED DVD in the STORE. And, if you have any further questions or concerns, please feel free to email me at meredith@luckythreeranch.com and I will answer you PROMPTLY.
The Crimped Oats Reward
(page 58) Developing your equine’s physical health is of primary importance, but training should evolve into a balanced, posturally correct and habitual way of moving and behaving. When we do core strength exercises (as opposed to bulk muscle development), it is imperative that the animal learns self carriage, body awareness and discovers the ultimate comfort that can be obtained from being in good posture. Anything less would compromise symmetrical physical development around the skeleton at the deepest level, good postural performance and cooperative behavior. Using Behavior Modification with the crimped oats reward insures that bad behaviors can be replaced with polite behaviors and that repeated ways of moving in good posture will eventually become habitual…a new normal! The difference between our approach and Clicker Training is that your voice (instead of the clicker) provides a means of communication that works more intimately, consistently and effectively with your equine. By the same token, “Rewards” are not the same as “Treats,” and “Bribing” is not the same as “Coaxing.” Very few of us would be willing to work for a simple pat on the head and this is also true with equines. When “paid well” with the healthy crimped oats reward, equines are more apt to repeat good behaviors and in doing so, those behaviors become habitual. This more intimate communication develops a deep and mutual trust. And, contrary to popular belief, when presented correctly for tasks honestly attempted or completed, the equine that gets the crimped oats reward also gets a lot of practice in taking little things politely from your hand without biting your fingers! I LOVE to see people enjoying their equines as much as I enjoy mine! To learn about the correction for any aggressive behaviors, about Behavior Modification and about Rewards, Treats, Coaxing and Bribing, look on my website at www.luckythreeranch.com under TRAINING/MULE CROSSING/BEHAVIOR MODIFICATION (category). Watch our TRAINING TIPS, also posted under TRAINING on my website. Don’t miss our LUCKY THREE RANCH YouTube channel with lost more educational and entertaining videos! HAPPY TRAILS!
MULE CROSSING: Donkey Training, Part 1
By Meredith Hodges
Training your donkey is not really much different than training horses and mules, although there are differences in instinct and attitude that will determine your approach in given situations. The mechanics and techniques, however, remain the same.
The donkey foal needs to begin his life of training with imprinting. Imprinting is simply getting your donkey accustomed to your touch, your voice, your smell, the way you look and the way you interact with him. These are all the things he learns from his mother that will determine the design of his character as he grows older. If he is to be a trainable and tractable individual, you and his mother must teach him to be accepting and willing from the day he is born. This also implies that you and the mother cannot be at odds. She needs to possess the traits you wish to instill in the foal. A well-trained mother will help to produce a well-trained foal. If your jennet is not easy to handle, then she needs this training as well and should be started with imprinting and progress through the steps of training before the foal is born.
When imprinting the foal, think of the kind of attitude you want to cultivate in him—do not come at him with the idea that he must accept you. This is a forceful and intrusive attitude and can foster resistance. Come at him with love, patience and kindness and these are the things he will learn. Give him respect and ask that he respect you and he will begin to learn about behavioral limitations. If he were in a herd, the adults would demand that he respect their space with well-placed discipline. You must learn to do the same without overdoing it. If he bites or kicks, a well-placed slap on the side of the mouth for biting and on the rump for kicking and a loud, “No!” will do the trick. Rewarding his good behaviors consistently will reinforce repetition of what you desire from him and will foster understanding between you and your donkey. This is the beginning of a long-lasting bond of friendship.
Friendships would not be complete without a good balance of work and play. Teachers who make learning fun for children make it easier for the child to learn what he needs to, as well as encouraging a good attitude towards life in general that can carry the child through the most trying of situations. The donkey is no different than a child. If learning is fun and non-threatening, he will enjoy his time with you and you will discover his innate desire to please and to serve. The best teachers are those who realize that they too can learn from the child in this process. Each individual is different in his or her own way, and it is important to recognize the differences in order to foster confidence and self-assurance. Your donkey will appreciate that you not only wish to teach him, but to learn from him as well. This will encourage his enthusiasm for learning and will ensure that he learns well and with confidence. He will learn, right from the beginning, to want to follow you anywhere because it’s the best place to be!
Don’t get in a hurry with your donkey. As a rule, horses have a very quick response time, but with minimal comprehension and memory retention. A mule’s response time is slightly slower than that of the horse, but their comprehension and memory retention is very keen. A donkey’s response time is measurably slower (they appear to be in deep thought for what seems like an eternity to you and me), but their comprehension and memory retention is the keenest of all three. When training each of these different equines, you need to learn to gauge your body language and expectations accordingly.
Whether your donkey is a young foal or an older animal, begin with imprinting and do the steps in sequence. Learn how to properly put on the halter. Let him wear it for a while then take it off, as he could get it caught and injure himself if it is left on. When your donkey is not bothered by you putting on and taking off the halter, you can teach him to be tied. Put the halter on him and tie him to a safe post for one hour. Come by to see him every 10 or 15 minutes, untie him and ask him to “come.” If he does not take a step toward you, just retie him and leave. Come back in 10 minutes and try again. When he takes a step toward you, reward him with a treat and lots of praise. Stroke him on the neck and shoulder or on the poll between the ears, or scratch his chest or rump—whatever he finds most pleasing. Then try a few more steps. Don’t ask for any more steps each day than he is willing to give. Save them for the next time and soon he will lead easily. When he is leading easily, you can start taking walks around the farm and you can begin to introduce him to things he may find frightening. Lead him as close as he will go at your shoulder, then step toward the obstacle as close as the lead will allow and coax him to you. Offer a reward if necessary to entice him, and be sure to reward him when he comes forward. When he is confident about investigating “things” with you, you can progress to an obstacle course.
At your first try going over logs, a bridge, tires, or other such obstacles, you may find your donkey reluctant to pick up his feet to negotiate an obstacle. He will probably try to go around it any way he can. Stand close to his head, holding him on a shorter lead, and ask him to “come.” If he moves only one foot over a log or tire or onto a bridge, stop, hold him there and give him a reward for his effort. Next, ask for the other foot and, if he is willing, let him walk over the obstacle, then reward him again. If he moves only one foot more, reward that, and proceed—slowly! You don’t want him to just run through it. You want him to come when you say “come” and to whoa when you say “whoa.” You are beginning to establish verbal communication with your donkey, so keep it simple and consistent. Do all obstacles the same way. Donkeys like to get crooked over obstacles. When he has learned to step through or over an obstacle but is not going straight, you can step directly in front of him, holding the halter on both sides, and ask for straightness as he negotiates the obstacle.
Once he has learned to follow you over and around obstacles, he will be ready to begin the fundamentals of showmanship. Hold your lead in your left hand, keeping your right hand free and straight out in front of you. He should learn to lead with slack in the lead and to follow your shoulder. If he gets too close, you can use your right hand to push him back into position. Once you have begun showmanship training, ALWAYS lead him this way. Teach him to stand squarely on all fours every time he stops. You are not just teaching him to set up, but to carry his body in a balanced fashion so he will develop good posture and balance. When you want to teach him to trot on the lead, give the verbal command to “trot” and slowly move your own legs into a very slow trot. If he is difficult, do not go to the whip. Try to find something toward which he wants to trot. Above all, don’t get discouraged if he won’t trot the first few times, just slow back down and do something he already knows, then quit for the day and try again the next. Eventually, he WILL get it!
Do the same exercises (outlined in DVD #1 of my Training Mules and Donkeys resistance-free training series) with your donkey as you would with your horse or mule, but be prepared to go much slower and to be calm and supportive when he complies. Learn to reward even the slightest movement in the direction of compliance and allow him to progress at his own speed, not yours. Soon he will be wearing his halter and lead, standing tied quietly while you brush him and clean his feet, following you around and over obstacles, loading into a trailer and learning the beginning stages of showmanship. You will have a good, solid foundation on which to begin your donkey’s formal training.
To learn more about Meredith Hodges and her comprehensive all-breed equine training program, visit LuckyThreeRanch.com, MEREDITH HODGES PUBLIC FIGURE Facebook page, or call 1-800-816-7566. Check out her children’s website at JasperTheMule.com. Also, find Meredith on Pinterest, Instagram, MeWe, YouTube and Twitter.
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE and EQUUS REVISITED at www.luckythreeranchstore.com
© 1999, 2016, 2024 Lucky Three Ranch, Inc. All rights reserved.
MULE CROSSING: Moving Beyond Prey Versus Predator
In the past, when equines ran free, they were unencumbered by human interaction and could build and condition their muscles naturally. Today, with increased population but reduced open lands, their activity is often restricted. It then becomes our responsibility to not only train them, but to prepare them physically to perform and keep them happy in their environment. This responsibility becomes even more important when we ask them to exert more energy than normal, in activities like long trail rides, endurance events, showing and equine-related work. Proper preparation for this modern-day lifestyle will help to minimize your equine’s stress, both physically and mentally. https://www.luckythreeranch.com/mule-crossing-moving-beyond-prey-vs-predator/
MULE TALK! PODCAST: Keys to Successful Training Part 1
Keys to Successful Training Part 1 –
- The Work Station
- Tack and Equipment
- In the Round Pen
- Be aware of how your own body language and verbal commands elicit certain behaviors in your animal.
- The Hard Tie as a restraint and how to use it.
- In the Arena
- Open Areas
Follow along: read the transcript
Learn more on Mule Talk podcast.
For more training info: www.LuckyThreeRanch.Com and click on the Training tab.
Mule Talk is an Every Cowgirl’s Dream production – www.EveryCowgirlsDream.Com
Reinsmanship
(Pg. 233, 4-22-15) Ground driving, whether single or double, is not just a driving-based activity. Whether you plan to drive or ride your equine, ground driving will help you to improve your Reinsmanship skills and the connection with your equine. Ground driving gives your equine the opportunity to learn direct rein cues that come from the corners of his lips with the snaffle bit (pull right, go right – pull left, go left) before actually riding or driving. During ground driving in the snaffle bridle, surcingle or lightweight saddle and my “Elbow Pull” (covered in my Equus Revisited DVD/Manual combo), his balance in good equine posture can be maintained throughout the exercises to develop symmetrical core strength around the skeletal frame. Bosals, side pulls and bitless bridles cannot affect good equine posture the same way. Walking in sync with your equine’s back legs will help you to establish rhythm with your equine to obtain a prompt response from him with the slightest of drive line (rein) cues. By the time you finally ride or drive your equine, he will know how to be light in the bridle. Your own body will be more flexible, in sync with your equine’s movement and relaxed from the ground driving exercises. Your seat will be more stable and your hands will be light and effective from this practice. You will be less awkward during those initial riding and driving lessons and better able to stay balanced and in control. The only real task that remains when your equine is finally mounted and ridden is to establish clarity in your seat and leg cues. When finally driving, your hands will then be ready to encourage your equine’s forward motion and responsiveness unobstructed from overcueing. This extra step in the training process avoids throwing too much at your equine all at once, keeps things logical and sequential and lessens the chance for confusion and resistance. Learn more in the various sections under TRAINING for FREE on my website at www.luckythreeranch.com or go to OUR STORE at www.luckythreeranchstore.com to purchase your own copies of our books and videos.
The Crimped Oats Reward
(Page 58) Developing your equine’s physical health is of primary importance, but training should evolve into a balanced, posturally correct and habitual way of moving and behaving. When we do core strength exercises (as opposed to bulk muscle development), it is imperative that the animal learns self carriage, body awareness and discovers the ultimate comfort that can be obtained from being in good posture. Anything less would compromise symmetrical physical development around the skeleton at the deepest level, good postural performance and cooperative behavior. Using Behavior Modification with the crimped oats reward insures that bad behaviors can be replaced with polite behaviors and that repeated ways of moving in good posture will eventually become habitual…a new normal! The difference between our approach and Clicker Training is that your voice (instead of the clicker) provides a means of communication that works more intimately, consistently and effectively with your equine. By the same token, “Rewards” are not the same as “Treats,” and “Bribing” is not the same as “Coaxing.” Very few of us would be willing to work for a simple pat on the head and this is also true with equines. When “paid well” with the healthy crimped oats reward, equines are more apt to repeat good behaviors and in doing so, those behaviors become habitual. This more intimate communication develops a deep and mutual trust. And, contrary to popular belief, when presented correctly for tasks honestly attempted or completed, the equine that gets the crimped oats reward also gets a lot of practice in taking little things politely from your hand withoutbiting your fingers! I LOVE to see people enjoying their equines as much as I enjoy mine! To learn about the correction for any aggressive behaviors, about Behavior Modification and about Rewards, Treats, Coaxing and Bribing, look on my website at www.luckythreeranch.com under TRAINING/MULE CROSSING/BEHAVIOR MODIFICATION (category). Watch our TRAINING TIPS, also posted under TRAINING on my website. Don’t miss our LUCKY THREE RANCH YouTube channel with lost more educational and entertaining videos! HAPPY TRAILS!