I remember back in 1982 when summer came and we had to search high and low for shows in which we could compete with our mules! As they say, “You’ve come a long way, baby!” Mule shows are now so numerous that it is becoming very difficult to decide which ones to attend. Years ago, our mules were not necessarily welcome at horse competitions, and today that has changed as well – making our decisions about where to compete is even more complicated. It is truly amazing to see the tremendous growth in popularity of the mule over the past 30 to 40 years, but then I guess it was inevitable given all their redeeming qualities! It really isn’t that unusual that people would begin to prefer mules once they received accurate and truthful information about them. Granted, you have to be smarter than the mule in order to train one, but once you train one properly, you have a wonderful companion and a top competitor in the equine world. More and more, the criticism of mules has changed to general curiosity and a willingness to learn more about these unique animals. Many people have taken a great deal of time and effort to bring these animals into the public eye. To name them all would take volumes, but their work is certainly appreciated!
As I said, there are many all-mule and donkey shows that you can attend in most states across the U.S. Most of them are held in conjunction with State Fairs. However, there are others that are promoted with horse and mule races as well. The American Donkey & Mule Society sponsors a National Mule and Donkey Show that floats from state to state. The 1992 A.D.M.S. Nationals were held in conjunction with the South Carolina State Fair. There were some truly lovely mules to see in our eastern United States.
Breed shows are another place you will see mules today. In many places, you will see mules competing in their classes sandwiched between classes for anything from Draft Horses to Arabians and Saddlebreds. Many of these breed shows not only included a mule division, but allowed mules to compete in their Open Classes as well against the various horse breeds. In 1991, our own Lucky Three Mae Bea C.T. competed in an Open English Pleasure class of primarily Saddlebreds and American Show Horses to sixth place of 20 entries. It is nice to know that the judges were taking mules seriously, as well!
The American Driving Society has been quite supportive itself! They encourage mules to participate in the many facets of driving that they offer, from pleasure, to fun events to actual marathon driving. In these shows, the mules are allowed to compete directly with the horses. Shows such as these tend to really test the knowledge and expertise of the trainer and the conditioning and response of the animals. Integrity in progressive learning is encouraged while stark competitiveness and politics take a back seat. This type of situation is much more appealing to the novice who wants to learn and improve his and his animal’s skills.
The United States Dressage Federation is another group that has encouraged mules to come and compete in their schooling shows, giving mules the opportunity to train and show with the best that Horsemanship has to offer. Showing was limited to non-A.H.S.A. (American Horse Show Association) shows, but nevertheless, quite adequate and beneficial for our mules. It is understandable that they should not compete with horses and riders that are competing for National and International Championships, and sometimes for Olympic recognition. It could offset the points system drastically should a mule compete, being ineligible for such events anyway. The A.H.S.A. has stated that these championships are horse competitions.
The United States Combined Training Association left it up to each region to decide whether, or not, to allow mules to compete and some areas are more tolerant than others. Dressage and Combined Training offers the ultimate in fitness and conditioning of both animal and rider. Because it requires so much physical exertion and skill, everyone is accustomed to discussion on gross errors and wrecks with little or no embarrassment. This makes for a great learning environment with a lot of positive social interaction. We have had a lot of fun for three years competing with the Mountain States Combined Training Association and the Windy Wyoming Combined Training Association. They were a great group of folks from the organizers to the competitors. When Lucky Three Mae Bea C.T. came in second in 1992 in the Open Novice Division at the Abbe Ranch Horse Trials in Larkspur in June, organizer Susan Farmer presented our ribbon and warmly said, “We’re not prejudiced here! Congratulations!” I think it is more important to these folks to see that people enjoy the sport and more over, to continue to want to participate and learn. This makes for attainable long term goals, and even more… it makes for long term friendships.
If you are not really the competitive type, but enjoy the simpler side of showing in gymkhana events and pleasure classes, there are a lot of small Open Shows that you can attend sponsored by various saddle clubs across the U.S. They will usually let the mules compete right along with the horses. Learning and having fun are again the key issues here.
The mule has been proving his worth now, more than ever in Competitive Trail Riding and Endurance Racing. When you talk about Competitive Trail Riding in Colorado, you have to give credit to Cee Wolf who really excelled with her mules in this area of equine athletics, even at 80 years of age! She is another lady who has done great promotional work for mules! I would like to thank the millions of people who have given of themselves, that mules might be seen for whom they really are… a truly wonderful companion and a magnificent athlete and performer!
You have, thus far, begun to teach your donkey several things: how to begin to execute the turn on the forehand and turn on the haunches, how to walk forward in a round pen from the lunge whip without a saddle or harness (then with the saddle and harness), on the drivelines, and while being ridden. He has also begun to learn how to “trot on” from the lunge whip while tacked up, and how to walk and trot on the lead with an assistant aiding from behind. Do not be alarmed if your donkey’s movements are not perfect. Each time you work with him, he will get better at each of these things, especially if, at the start of each lesson, you review before adding anything new.
At the next lesson, if he is large enough, he will learn to trot with a rider onboard. If he is too small to ride, skip this lesson under saddle and do it with the drivelines. As always, begin with a complete review. After he has done his turns on the forehand and haunches, walked both on the lunge and with the drivelines, done right and left turns both on the drivelines and with a rider, and trotted with tack, he is ready to trot with a rider. Before you begin, here is a little exercise you can use to help your donkey stay light in the bridle. When you have mounted, take a treat in your right hand and your right rein in your left hand, and ask him to bring his head around to your knee and take the treat from your hand. Then take the treat in your left hand and the left rein in your right hand, and ask him to bend his head around to your opposite knee and take the treat from your hand. (Don’t pull—just vibrate the rein as his head comes around, and don’t try to hold him there. He will be very light in the bridle later on, once his neck muscles are stretched and flexible.) Now you will school the trot: Do it just as you did the walk. First ask your donkey to walk while your assistant, with the lunge whip, acts as a backup. You will give the command to walk, squeeze and release your legs and use your riding crop, if necessary.
Your assistant will come into play only if your donkey does not respond to your cues first. When he is in a good free walk on a loose rein, give the command to “trot.” Use your voice, then your legs and then go to your crop, if necessary. If this doesn’t work, your assistant can step in behind and encourage him with the lunge whip with one smart strike to the gaskin above the hocks, while shuffling his or her feet to create some noise. This should work, but you, as the rider, must sit absolutely still, maintain a very loose rein and allow the donkey to comply on his own. (Do not keep thumping his sides with your legs, nor keep hitting with the crop.) If all this fails to make him move on, just stop, pet him (no treat this time) and wait until he sighs or resumes chewing, then start over again. He is just trying to figure out what you are asking. This is not disobedience. It is important to note that you should not move from one attempt to the next without letting him chew. This is the way your donkey tells you that he is relaxed and ready to listen. If he just won’t do it, then go back to the lunging and have him trot without the rider once more, then try again at the next lesson. Each donkey is a different individual and will learn at his own pace.
As a trainer, I do not ask for perfection on the movements previously described, just cooperation and a reasonable effort. Repetition, over time, will take care of the rest. It is more important that you and your donkey have fun together and learn together in a way that is pleasing to you both. Your donkey may get bored with the round pen if you are there often. Varying the routine and place of training can alleviate this. He should be doing well with the walk at this point and be ready to move into an open arena for further lessons.
Set four cones in the four corners of your arena, with ample space for him to walk around the outside of them. Then set two cones in the center of the arena, creating a gate through which the two of you will pass. This will outline an hourglass pattern for you and your donkey to follow, as he perfects the verbal commands to “walk on,” “haw,” “gee” and “whoa.” “Trot” will come later.
First, lead your donkey (fully tacked up with either saddle and bridle or harness) around the perimeter and let him inspect the new area in which you will work. Remember to use your showmanship techniques. Then find a spot in the arena and review the turns on the forehand and haunches. Next, attach your drivelines and, with the assistant leading him, ground-drive him through the hourglass pattern. As you drive him, talk constantly, telling him what he is doing: “Walk on, walk on, good boy, walk on, haw, haw, haw, walk on, walk on, haw, haw, haw, walk on, walk on, good boy, walk on, gee, gee, walk on, walk on, walk on, haw, haw, haw,” etc. This is how you will reinforce the meaning of the verbal commands to your donkey for a good, solid foundation, and you will not have to repeat yourself as often later on. First, loop the pattern one way, then cross a nice straight diagonal and loop the other way. Have your assistant try to do as little as possible and let you actually drive him from behind. As you make each turn, give the command, pull/release the rein VERY lightly, and tap him VERY lightly with your driving whip on the opposite side, whether he needs it or not.
When he is executing the pattern without any deviations, you can eliminate the assistant and ask your donkey to respond to your cues alone. Use your verbal commands, reins and whip to help keep him straight. If he tries to deviate from the pattern, either stop him and resume, or just pull the rein in the direction he is to travel and help him get back on track with the driving whip. Use your whip lightly, but definitely on one side or the other to “push” him in the right direction. Use your whip directly over the croup for forward. Do NOT let him circle and come back to the track. He needs to learn to go in the direction in which you are pulling, and if you allow him to go in the opposite direction and circle back, you will find that he will be doing it a lot more than you would like. It’s better to stop a bad habit before it has a chance to become habit at all. To prevent a memorized response, stop him and ask him to back at different points on the pattern every so often to vary the pattern. Donkeys have terrific memories and if you stop him in the same place all the time that is where he will ALWAYS stop, no matter what you are trying to do. Do this pattern this way for a couple of sessions, and when he is going easily you can add circles at the cones to create a more interesting workout.
When he is steering well, it is once again time for your assistant to aid you in getting your donkey to go straight along the rail of the arena. Have your assistant walk along the rail, between it and the donkey, with the lead line held loosely in her hand, allowing you to drive the donkey from behind. If you tryto do this without the assistant, you will find that your donkey remembers the hourglass pattern and will try to go to the middle. He needs assistance in learning this deviation from what he has previously learned. When you change direction, keep your assistant between the wall and the donkey to help maintain his straightness. After about two times around in each direction, he should “get it,” and you can drive him without the assistant. Each time you change direction, do a straight crossing on the diagonal. (Short diagonals and half-turns will be taught later in this series.) Donkeys like to bend in half far too much, so you want to discourage this in the beginning and opt for straightness.
The next step for the larger donkey is to be ridden at the walk through the hourglass pattern, both with the assistant and without, as outlined in the ground driving lesson. Do this exactly as you did before and don’t forget to repeat, repeat and repeat your verbal commands! Vary the stop and reward him with treats every time you stop to reinforce the good behavior. Be very exact and consistent with your rein and leg cues and don’t use your crop unless absolutely necessary. Rein cues should be only vibrations of the rein, legs should stay quiet while the donkey is in motion and should come into play only to urge him forward when he stops, and to support his body and keep it upright in conjunction with your rein cues through the corners.
The leg to the inside of the arc should remain at the girth and serve as a support post while the leg to the outside of the arc is at the back cinch and drives him forward into impulsion. The inside rein tells him what direction to turn while the outside rein stays steady in a straight position so he does not turn too abruptly. If you persist with continuous motion in your legs and hands, you will dull your donkey’s response and you will find that he begins to ignore you. If he does begin to make a mistake, just stop, wait until he has sighed or is chewing, then resume. Again, do not let him veer off and circle back. If he does run off to the right, for instance, you must turn him back to the left to bring him back, since that is the rein he pulled away from you. Conversely, if he runs off to the left, you would bring him back with the right rein, but you NEVER circle and come back in the direction HE has chosen. If you can manage it, it is best to just stop, regroup and go on, but sometimes they do take you well out of the desired pattern.
During the next lesson, you can add the perimeter of the arena, just as you did on the drivelines. Have your assistant lead your donkey twice around both directions and across a straight diagonal to change direction. Then you can ride solo. The same rules apply here as they did when learning the pattern. Keep him straight, repeat commands, back up verbal commands with consistent rein and leg cues and if he pulls out to the left, bring him back with the left rein. If he starts to trot, pull straight back and give the command to “whoa.” If· he still won’t stop, keep him straight and stop him at the fence. DO NOT TURN HIM! If you start this, it will become a practically impossible habit to break.
As you have probably noticed, donkeys think a little differently than do horses and mules, and must be approached accordingly for the best and most non-resistant response, but there is no reason that you cannot accomplish this with a little patience and understanding. While you may have to teach, “Walk here, walk there, walk this way and that,” and it seems that you are progressing at a snail’s pace, remember that it takes less time for your donkey to really process what you are teaching him. So, in essence, he is learning more quickly than a mule or horse, he doesn’t need as much repetition and the training time is about the same, and, in some cases, shorter! So stop worrying and have a good time.
By now your donkey should be getting much better at his turns on the forehand and haunches on the lead line. He should be leading easily at the walk and trot and squaring up while stopped. He should be lunging at the walk and trot in the round pen, and ground-driving at the walk in the round pen, both straight and through turns and reverses. He should be walking and trotting with a rider in the round pen, without the assistant. He should be both ground-driving and walking with a rider through the hourglass pattern and on the perimeter of the larger arena. Now you are going to ask for a little more detailed control by asking him to walk over and through some very straight-forward obstacles.
Set up some obstacles in a confined area. Obstacles might include a tarp, four ground rails, a bridge, a straight back-through, a mailbox and a tractor tire. Your donkey should have been led through these obstacles as part of his leading training, so he should be familiar with these obstacles. Now you can begin to ask him to negotiate these obstacles more on his own by first ground-driving him through them, then (if he is large enough) by riding him through them. Begin by reviewing his turns on the forehand and haunches. Then attach the drivelines and have your assistant lead him as you drive him from behind. Start with something simple such as ground poles, a tarp or a bridge that he can easily walk over. If he is negotiating the tarp or bridge, ask him to “whoa” when he is standing on it with all four feet, reward him and then proceed. If he is negotiating the ground poles, walk over them. Once he is on the other side, stop him immediately and reward him. Then proceed. Then have your assistant lead him to the mailbox while you ground-drive him, and have him stop parallel to it. Reward him for stopping, then have your assistant open and close the mailbox and reward him again for standing still. Then proceed. Walk him through the parallel poles and stop him. Reward him. Then ask him to back out of them. Reward him again. Then proceed to the tractor tire. Make sure your assistant walks through the tire and not around it, because the donkey will do exactly as he sees her do! Once on the other side of the tire, have your assistant stop and allow the donkey to put his two front feet in the tire and halt. Reward him. Then proceed forward and allow him to walk through the tire to the other side and halt. Reward him again. Your assistant will be giving the treats, since you will need to maintain the drivelines.
After he has negotiated all of the obstacles with the assistant leading him, it is time for him to negotiate them on his own. Have your assistant stand on the ending side of the obstacle while you ground-drive him through exactly as you did before, stopping in the appropriate places. Whenever you stop, have your assistant come to him and reward him, then have her go back to the starting position, where she will reward him again as he completes the obstacle. If you have any problems with him at all, have your assistant come back and lead him through it again, then try to ground-drive him through again on his own. Do not try to bully him into doing it. This will only cause resistance and a failure to understand how to properly negotiate the obstacle.
Once your donkey is going smoothly and obediently through the obstacles on the drivelines, you can ride him through (if he is large enough). Begin as you did with the drivelines and have your assistant lead him through first or ride through ahead of him on a schooled animal that he likes, stopping in the appropriate places and rewarding him each step of the way. Depending on how willing your donkey is, this could be the next lesson, on the very same day. Each time you go to the obstacle course, repeat this entire process each time, first on the drivelines with the assistant, then without, ride with the assistant leading, then ride through the obstacles without her. It will not be long before he is going well, as donkeys learn things quickly and thoroughly, although they do have off days and may decide not to comply with a particular obstacle on that particular day. Tomorrow, it may be an entirely different story and he may have no trouble at all with any of them. It’s just the nature of the donkey to “change things up a little” from day to day. They like to keep us honest and on our toes. This is why I have included a separate section in my Training Mules and Donkeys series just for donkeys that is designed to be used WITH the other DVDs. Do the obstacles in a different order each time to prevent your donkey from anticipating and ignoring your cues, and be sure that you are cueing him properly for each obstacle, making your movements as light as possible.
If you encounter resistance at any obstacle, just stop, have your assistant come back and lead him through again. Then try it again. If you encounter only mild resistance at any obstacle, try to straighten your donkey out and repeat the obstacle again without the assistant. For instance, let’s suppose your donkey goes through the parallel poles, but won’t stop for the back. Stop him as soon as you can after the poles and ask him to back. Then go forward again in a large circle and come back through again and try to stop him in the middle, between the poles, then back. Give him every opportunity you can to succeed on his own and be sure to reward him for it.
Often, a donkey will create resistance by sticking his nose out and pulling his head to one side. If this becomes a perpetual problem, you can use the elbow pull to help to keep him straight and to discourage this kind of resistance. Take a 12-foot length of 3/8″ rope with snaps on both ends. Fold it in half and drape it over his poll. Run the two ends through the snaffle bit rings from the outside toward his mouth, down between his legs and over the back on each side. Tie it off with his head pulled to a level where his poll is about six inches above his withers. This is called an “elbow pull” and instructions on how to make and adjust it are included in my Equus Revisited DVD. This will keep him from sticking his nose out and will encourage good posture as he goes through the movements. It is a better way to deal with this problem than it would be to use draw reins (as shown in photos), as draw reins need to be held and adjusted in your hands. Draw reins can too often produce an over-reaction, even in the most experienced hands. Do not use the elbow pull in any other part of his training until he has learned to trot well, both in the round pen and in the open. This comes later than the walk work we are doing now.
To vary the routine and to keep things interesting while cultivating the best responses in your donkey, you should spend one day in the round pen, the next day in the open area doing the hourglass, and the next session on the obstacle course. Be sure to include a review of turns on the forehand and haunches, and ground-driving both straight and with turns preceding each session. And always, before you ride off and immediately after mounting, ask your donkey to bring his head to your knee on each side by offering a treat and vibrating the rein on that side. This encourages light responses in your donkey. Don’t drill your donkey every day. He only needs clear and consistent lessons to learn well, and he needs rest in between so as not to establish any soreness or side effects from using muscles he hasn’t used before. Don’t worry, he will not forget what you have taught him, and even if you have three days or three weeks between lessons, he will be right where you left him! Herein is the beauty of training a donkey or mule.
Across the United States and around the world, as mules are given more and more opportunities to perform in many diverse situations, they are exhibiting their exceptional beauty, athletic ability, endurance and intelligence. There are definite physical and psychological reasons for these outstanding abilities. It has been proven that the mule not only inherits the mare’s beauty, but is also more athletic than the mare out of which he came. The mule is an exceptional hybrid not only because he inherits these qualities from his dam, the mare, but he also inherits the best qualities from his sire, the jack who is responsible for his muscle structure, thickness of bone, strength and intelligence.
The muscle structure of a mule is noticeably different than that of a horse. His body is covered with masses of long, smooth muscle whereas the horse has more differentiated bulk muscle masses.
The most apparent example of this difference is seen in the chest of the mule. The horse’s chest has two distinct muscle groups, which creates a very distinctive line of separation in the middle of his chest. However, the mule’s chest is composed of one wide muscle mass that resembles a turkey’s breast, which greatly enhances the mobility of the front quarters. Another example is found in the mule’s hindquarters, where the long, wide and smooth muscles enable the mule to kick forward, backwards and sideways—he can even scratch the top of his head with a hind foot if he wants to! Mules are also quite capable of climbing under, over and through most kinds of fencing. Restraints that are used with horses often do not work with mules because of their astounding ability to free themselves from annoying circumstances with their strong, quick and agile movements. Because the hindquarters of the horse possess bulkier muscle masses, the horse does not have this incredible range of motion. The difference in muscular structure is similar to that of a ballet dancer versus that of a weight lifter—the ballet dancer’s longer, smoother muscles are more conducive to elasticity and agility.
In addition to this physical structure, which allows him more diverse range of movement, the mule also inherits from his sire (the donkey jack) the strength to tolerate prolonged and strenuous use of his muscles. One need only try to budge an unwilling donkey to realize his incredible strength! Donkeys traditionally possess an unbelievable vigor, and this vigor is passed on to the mule, adding to his superiority over the horse in strength and endurance. The donkey jack also contributes to the superior, tough hooves of the mule and a unique resistance to parasites and disease. Throughout their long history, the donkey’s natural ability to survive and thrive in habitats both desolate and unyielding guarantees that donkeys and their mule offspring are more sure-footed than other equines and masters of self-preservation.
Donkeys have long been referred to as “stubborn,” but this is a false and unjust perception. It is not stubbornness that causes an overloaded donkey to stop dead in his tracks to rest his body, but rather common sense and a strong desire for self-preservation. After all, would a sensible human being deliberately pack more than he could comfortably carry, and then continue a hike until he drops from heat and exhaustion? No. Would his refusal to do so be considered as being “stubborn?” Certainly not—it’s just common sense. The same common sense should be applied when understanding a mule or donkey’s behavior—and this holds true in any potentially dangerous situation a donkey may face. For example, when crossing a body of water, the donkey does not possess a human’s acute visual depth perception. Therefore, when he refuses to step into water that seems perfectly safe to us, it is because his depth perception is telling him to use caution and to take his time in evaluating the situation before he proceeds. His behavior is determined by the way he is asked to perform a task and by his concern for his welfare and safety.
As a rule, donkeys are equipped with the innate intelligence to sense that humans are not always concerned with what is really best for them, yet they are still willing to gives us the opportunity to convince them otherwise. Donkeys also have a natural social attraction to humans and, when treated with patience, kindness and understanding, they learn to trust and obey. On the other hand, if they are treated with pain and abuse, they are not likely to comply and can become very dangerous to handle. Mules and donkeys have an honest way of responding to our demands, so if your mule or donkey is not complying with your request, you need to review the clarity of how you are communicating your desire and adjust your approach accordingly. The intelligence of the donkey is no accident.
When a male donkey, with his traits of superior intelligence, strength and muscle structure is bred to a female horse with a calm disposition, good conformation and athletic ability, the result is an exceptional and incredibly beautiful animal—the MULE!
October 26th has been popularly designated as National Mule Appreciation Day, but anyone who’s ever been lucky enough to nuzzle a muzzle knows that these magnificent, gentle, bright, honest, upbeat, funny, patient and loyal friends need our appreciation and guardianship not just once a year but every day. Let’s spread the word whenever we can mules and donkeys are truly amazing!
By walking your donkey through all the different phases of training, and before going on to the trot, you have given yourself and your donkey an opportunity to learn to negotiate and perfect your movements before you ask for speed. This allows for a lot more perfection of coordination to take place, so things are less likely to fall apart when you do add a little speed. This is the most obvious difference between mules or horses and donkeys. Horses and mules are difficult to slow down in training because of their flight instinct and are better equipped to handle walk, trot and canter all at once, moving from a confined area to more space and, ultimately, through obstacles. Donkeys, however, with their freeze instinct, get worried and won’t move if they are overwhelmed and confused. For this reason, their training is approached a little differently.
By now, your donkey should be walking really well in the round pen, both lunging and in the drivelines, on straight-aways and turning. He should be walking the hourglass pattern and the perimeter of the larger arena, circling at the cones in the pattern, doing circles off the wall on the perimeter of the arena, and crossing straight diagonals for changes of direction. He should be walking through straight-forward obstacles and getting in and out of your trailer. He should be moving away from pressure a lot more easily through the turns on the forehand and haunches while on the lead line.
Next, you will ask our donkey to begin to do his turn on the haunches while on the drivelines. This will take place in the round pen. You have already asked for the reverse and smooth turns with which he should be familiar. Now, you are going to ask him to plant a pivot foot through the turn. Do this by simply keeping the outside rein a little tighter than you did for the reverse along the rail. Hold your donkey’s head and neck straight with the outside rein while giving pulls/releases in the direction of the turn and backing it up with your driving whip on the opposite side. As he completes the turn, be sure to give a full release and ask him to walk out promptly afterward. It shouldn’t take long for him to get it. After he understands with the drivelines in the round pen, you can mount him and walk him through it, paying attention to the correct rein and leg cues. Then you can move to the open arena and practice along the rail, first on the drivelines and then under saddle.
Once he has learned the turn on the haunches in the round pen, he can also learn his turn on the forehand on the drivelines. This is a little more difficult, as he will want to try the turn on the haunches. Ask him to “Whoa”” along the rail. Then, keeping your reins taut and even, take a step to the side, away from the direction you wish him to turn. The rein will tighten on that side and will drape around his hip. You will have the sensation of pulling his hip around with the rein. If you are turning right, ask him to “gee around” and give short tugs on the direction rein, while keeping him straight with the other taut rein by holding steady. He will probably want to pull forward the first few times, but hold him as steady as you can, and if he doesn’t want to move his haunches over, just tap him LIGHTLY with the driving whip on the direct rein side. After a couple of tries of “gee-around,” ask him to “haw-around” and track left. Have patience and he will eventually get it. When he is doing fairly well at executing his turns on the haunches and turns on the forehand on the drivelines, you can progress to doing them under saddle. Just remember to keep things slow and accurate. Speed will only bring confusion and resistance at this point. It is better to opt for perfection at a slower and more controllable pace. When you are both more practiced and coordinated, you can add speed.
Your donkey should be willing to trot in the round pen with just his tack. Up to this point, he has learned his turns at the walk both on the drivelines and under saddle in the round pen, in the open arena and over obstacles. Now he will learn to trot on the drivelines and under saddle. Begin with the usual review, then after he has lunged at the trot, put on the drivelines and drive him at the trot. If he gets balky, your assistant can trot ahead of him with the treat bag and no lead line. Initially, if he goes too fast, just slow him down easily by giving the command to “Whoa” and create a drag on the lines. Your assistant can help if necessary by stepping ahead of him with her arms up, as you did when you were lunging him. Have him go around only as many times as he is willing in the beginning, and reward him for his efforts.
When he has complied on the drivelines, you can then mount him and try him under saddle. Your assistant should remain in the middle with her lunge whip and back up your verbal and leg cues with action from her whip. After a few hesitations, your donkey should understand what you want and be happy to comply. Just remember not to overdo and your assistant should stop using the whip when the donkey is complying with your cues. Also, remember to stop him any time there is resistance—regroup and then try again. This will let him know that you wish to halt any time there is a problem. When we get into lateral moves, this will be of the utmost importance with your donkey. He needs to learn to not just bully his way forward and out of a difficult situation. If there is a problem, most donkeys will attempt to evacuate the scene in slo-mo! It is better to teach them right from the beginning to stop and wait.
When he trots well in the round pen, you can begin to add trot to your sessions in the open. Always review first then add the new movement at the end of his lesson. After the review, begin by having him trot through the hour-glass pattern on the drivelines with your assistant, then without. It will be shaky at first and you may feel like you’re riding a drunken sailor! Just be sure to make your rein and leg cues as subtle as possible to prevent over reactions and keep him encouraged forward with a loose rein as he is going forward. Learn to vibrate the reins rather than pulling—this helps to minimize over-reactions. Soon, your donkey will be doing the pattern smoothly on your commands alone.
When he has learned the pattern well, he can progress to the perimeter of the arena at the trot. Do this only AFTER he is going well in the pattern, or you may find the pattern impossible after he learns the trot on the perimeter. After he has learned to trot smoothly and obediently without interruption, you can vary both of these exercises by walking part of the pattern, then trotting some, then walking again. Do the same on the perimeter of the arena. It is best to walk the short sections and trot the longer ones. For instance, in the hour-glass, walk the short side of the arena and trot out of the corner through the cone gates to the next corner, then walk the short side and repeat the trot out of the comer, through the cone gates in the middle of the next comer. On the perimeter, he would walk the short sides and trot the long sides. When he is exhibiting good control, you can then add circles at various points along the way: around the cones in the hour-glass and along the long side of the arena and in the comers. Always end his sessions with the walk, halt, then back.
Using the trot on the obstacle course requires that you be very definite about where and when you do it, so plan ahead. You may ask him to trot straight over ground poles or a tarp, but he must be willing to stop immediately on the other side. In the beginning, having your assistant waiting with a reward on the other side will help to encourage him to comply. When you take her out of the picture, be ready to treat him for good behavior yourself while ground-driving and under-saddle. When your donkey has completed an obstacle, he should always be willing to stop and wait for your next command for as long as it takes. This is the foundation for learning to stand quietly both in harness and under-saddle. This means that you, too, must learn to approach him slowly and quietly from behind while in the drivelines and to sit quietly when halted under-saddle until you present his reward and ask him to move on.
When executing the mailbox, bridge or tractor tire, you would trot to it, halt, then execute the obstacle and trot away. This teaches them to be careful about executing more difficult maneuvers and to listen carefully to your cues. Always stop for a reasonable amount of time in the middle of obstacles like these, as you need to have time to pull mail out of the mailbox, check for loose boards on a bridge and, later on, execute the turns on the forehand and haunches while in the tractor tire. This keeps your donkey alert! When he is listening well and responding accordingly at the trot, you can add the turns on the forehand and haunches while in the tractor tire. He would do his turn on the forehand with his front feet in the middle of the tire, and his turn on the haunches with his hind feet in the tire. Cue him the same as you normally would, just don’t let him step out of the tire and reward him lavishly for even just a couple of steps in the beginning. He will give you more as he understands what you are asking of him.
Trot him into the straight back-through, halt and back out. You can even add an angled back-through at this point, as he is now ready to begin to move his shoulders and haunches while moving. Just be sure to lead him through, drive him through and then ride him through at the walk. Then you can do it at the trot. Start leading and ground-driving over raised obstacles such as cavaletti, using the same formula we have established: Lead and walk with the assistant behind with the driving whip, then without the assistant; ground-drive and walk with the assistant, then without the assistant; and ride at the walk with the assistant, then without the assistant. Finally ground-drive and ride at the trot with the assistant, and then without the assistant.
The donkey is an animal that was born for no other purpose than to serve. If he understands what you are trying to convey, he has the innate desire to please. Remember this and be patient with your donkey. Each individual learns at his own pace, but rest assured, he will never forget what he has learned!
If your donkey has any problems with the trot after the previously described exercises, it will probably be in the hourglass pattern while under saddle. If he has difficulty maintaining the trot through the turns and serpentines through the middle, and continues to bulge either one way or the other, you can try one more thing to help him. Have your assistant ride a seasoned animal through the pattern ahead of you while you follow a few strides behind. Don’t ride too close, or too far away. Your donkey should be more than willing to follow. After all, doing things with friends is always more appealing.
When his trot work is going well, it is time for your donkey to learn to canter. Begin with a complete review in the round pen—lunging at the walk and trot, ground-driving at the walk and trot, turns at the walk and trot, and riding at the walk and trot. Then dismount and try lunging, first at the trot, then ask him to “Canter.” Use the same cues you did at the walk and trot. Give the verbal command first, then shuffle your feet while raising both of your arms, one pointing in the direction in which you wish to travel, and the other one raised behind you, with the whip in-hand. If he does not comply, then lightly tap the whip to his gaskins once just above the hock, then tap it harder on the fence behind him. He should begin to canter. Even if he canters only two steps, stop him, reward him and then try again. Don’t keep asking for more right away, because he will only get frustrated and stop. If you are patient and consistent, he will canter farther each time. Once he canters fairly well while lunging, you can skip ground-driving and go straight to riding him at the canter. Have your assistant stand in the center of the round pen with the lunge whip and “lunge” him while you ride and cue from his back. Sit very quietly and with a very loose rein, allowing him to canter until you say “Whoa.” Make sure you and your assistant are exactly in unison with your verbal commands, since you do not want to confuse the donkey. If, after a few sessions, he positively refuses to canter, fear not. You can try something else first, and come back to cantering later.
If your donkey hasn’t cantered in the round pen, go back to his lesson at the trot and allow him to succeed and be rewarded. Then take him into the large arena and allow him to follow an experienced animal through the hourglass pattern and along the perimeter of the arena at the walk and trot. Afterwards, go to the perimeter of the arena and have your assistant begin to canter out of a short side and down the long side. Encourage your donkey to follow. If he does not want to canter, slow him down through the short side and encourage him again on the next long side. If he wants to canter but is cutting the corner, let him. It is more important at this stage to get the canter than it is to stay on the rail. Be sure to call out your verbal commands repetitively as he learns to canter. You will say “Canter-Gee” for right and “Canter-Haw” for left. These are really important commands, as donkeys are more responsive to verbal commands than they are to your legs and reins. Let him canter for as long as he will, then stop and reward him. He will go longer periods of time as he gains strength and coordination. Make your circles as large as possible, at least fifty feet in diameter.
When he is cantering—or loping—easily around the arena, you can begin to facilitate control at the canter by varying your exercises. Have him trot the short sides and canter the long sides of the perimeter of the arena. Be sure he is picking up the proper lead in each direction (more on leads in discs #5 and #6 of my DVD training series, Training Mules and Donkeys). Pick up the lead in the corner each time to help him. Then you can trot the hourglass to the corner of the short side, pick up the canter and canter a circle, half of the arena, come back where you started, trot, and resume the pattern. Just be sure your circles are large enough to encourage good balance. You can ask him to trot along the rail, do a turn on the haunches and canter away on the correct lead. This will help him to learn to canter without the use of a corner. Take him out into the open on the obstacle course and let him canter for some longer distances, both in a straight line and in very large circles. If he breaks to the trot at any time during any of the aforementioned exercises, do not let him continue on at a fast trot. Slow him to the walk, then halt, regroup and begin again. You want to always maintain control.
As your donkey canters more and more, he will become better balanced and better coordinated. He will become stronger and be able to carry the canter for longer periods of time, so don’t get in a hurry. He will DO as he is ABLE. This is the nature of the donkey. When he is cantering easily and is obedient through his transitions from walk to trot to canter and from canter to trot to walk, you can begin to teach him to change leads and negotiate smaller circles. Begin in the large arena and review his previous lessons, ending with turns on the haunches along the rail. Designate a circle in the middle of your arena, and, starting along the rail, pick up a canter, make a full circle, ride along the rail a short distance, then ask him to stop, do a turn on the haunches into the rail and resume the canter on a circle the opposite direction and repeat. This will help him to be more prompt into the canter.
Next, you will circle at one end of the arena, taking up half of the space. After about two or three circles, straighten your donkey as he rounds toward the middle of the arena. Ask him to trot through the center on a straight line, then pick up the opposite lead and circle once or twice in the other half of the arena. Ask him to “Canter-Gee,” “Canter-Gee,” “Canter-Gee,” and “Trot-Trot.” “Trot-Trot,” and “Canter-Haw,” “Canter-Haw,” and so on. If he misses the change of lead, just stop him and start again, only this time, bring him to a walk in the middle, then pick up the trot and canter as you round the new bend. If he gets strong and tries to rush, you may even have to stop him in the middle, walk, then trot, then canter on the new bend. Remember, you do not want to teach your donkey to run through any of your cues! That’s a really tough habit to break. Don’t canter for too long and be sure to reward him after every lead change at the end of at least one circle following the change. Neither do you want him to change leads and stop.
The most important thing is to reinforce the verbal commands. Donkeys can be very dead-mouthed and very dead-sided, but they have the most acute hearing you’ll ever perceive and they rarely miss a verbal command. If your donkey is well schooled in his verbal commands, you will never need to set him up for his lead changes—he will always take the one you call for, even if it is a counter-canter. The same goes for every other command. If you want to stop and he is cantering, don’t forget to speak in order: “Canter, Canter, Trot, Trot, Walk and Whoa!” If you say “Canter,” then just “Whoa,” you will produce a sloppy and resistant transition, since donkeys aren’t into sliding stops, although they can do small sliding stops (Lucky Three’s Little Jack Horner was able to slide for fifteen feet). Even professional reining trainers will tell you that an equine has only so many good stops in him, and it is not advisable to do such strenuous and abrupt movements too often. So be concise with your verbal commands and try not to leave any out when “conversing” with your donkey.
While in the open, after he is getting more adept at the canter and he’s changing leads fairly easily and accurately, you can begin to teach him to change leads on a straight line. You will need a large open area, as you will be doing fairly big circles off each side of the straight line. Step One: Begin at walk, then trot (don’t forget your verbal commands!), then canter-haw, small circle, then straight for a few steps, trot-trot, then canter-gee, small circle, straighten, and repeat on the straight line. . Step Two: Ask for the new lead without the circle. If he starts rushing and ignoring your aids, just have him come down to walk, then trot, then canter again. If he doesn’t quite get it, go back to the exercise with the circles. You can add an interim step, provided he does not get too bent. You can begin on the straight line at the canter, ask for the trot and slightly bend him onto a new circle, then bend him back to the straight line once he has the lead. Be careful with this, though. If he is too committed to the circle, you can throw him off balance and defeat your purpose.
Now you can go back to the round pen and lunge at the canter. Many times, donkeys are just not comfortable with the size of a round pen canter circle. It seems to worry them because they are so sensitive to even the slightest loss of balance when trying to perform. I think you will find that your donkey, after learning to canter in a more open space, is more than willing to accommodate you in the round pen. By the same token, we have not bothered with the lunge line in the round pen and in the open for the same reason. After your donkey is sufficiently broke to saddle or harness or both, he will lunge very nicely on the lunge line.
Now it is time for your donkey to learn to move laterally. Lateral movements are essential to the overall balance and posture of your donkey. It will improve muscle strength throughout his body and will reduce the risk of injury or soreness while he is being ridden or driven.
You can begin his lateral work on the drivelines in the large arena. Begin by driving your donkey through the hourglass pattern (after review). As he approaches the first corner cone, ask him to circle it and then turn down the centerline instead of moving down the short side to the next cone. Let him move straight for a few steps, and then, with your assistant at his head, ask him to move forward and sideways away from your circle. The centrifugal force from the circle should send him onto the diagonal with little resistance and your assistant will be in front to keep him from just running forward. If he is to move laterally to the right, you should make a small circle to the left and drift out and onto the right diagonal. If he is to move laterally to the left, you should circle to the right and allow him to drift out and onto the left diagonal. As your donkey is on the circle, maintain the bend with a shortened inside rein. As he comes up the centerline, maintain the bend as he moves forward on the straight line, then begin to give distinct pulls and releases on the outside rein to encourage him to follow it, and back this up with a light tap of the whip on his opposite hip if he does not begin to move diagonally. As he begins to walk diagonally, so should you—step for step. Pull the outside rein in unison with his front legs, pulling back when the outside leg comes back, allowing freedom for the front leg that is to cross over. It takes a little coordination, so don’t be discouraged if things aren’t working well the first few times. Just keep practicing and you will eventually get it, and so will your donkey!
As he gets better at the lateral walk this way, you can add various patterns, which will increase his lateral response. And above all, do not forget those verbal commands: “Haw-over” for left and “Gee-over” for right. You have made it easy for him by asking him to perform the lateral response out of the circle. Another circular lateral response is the spiral. Have him walk in a large circle and spiral down to a very small circle. Then ask him to gradually work back onto the larger circle again by spiraling out in a yielding fashion. Watch his legs to make sure he is crossing over properly.
Now it is time for him to listen even more carefully to your rein and whip cues. You will begin to ask him to change his bend for you before he moves laterally. Walk the perimeter of the arena and this time, you will circle on the second corner. When he has completed the circle and his nose comes to the diagonal track, ask him to halt and move his hindquarters over until he is parallel to the long-side rail. Then give the proper cues for the direction in which you wish to travel, as designated earlier. This exercise helps promote good listening skills on the part of your donkey and more increased coordination for yourself. There are several different variations on this theme. The first time you will want to cross the long diagonal (see diagram), allowing your donkey all the time he will need to complete the lateral exercise with the least amount of angle.
As he becomes more adept, you can teach your donkey to cross the short diagonal from the corner to the middle of the long side of your arena. Then proceed straight through the next corner to the second cone and repeat (see diagram).Always be sure to stop, correct the bend, and then proceed—one step at a time if necessary. He can learn to cross two short diagonals by circling at the middle of the rail on the long side after the first short diagonal, then proceeding laterally to the corner. Two short diagonals would create a change of lateral direction, so be sure to execute your cues very concisely with pauses between your transitions. Circle, halt, move hindquarters, move laterally, halt at the center of the long side, change to the bend of the new circle, complete circle, halt, move hindquarters, move laterally. Take it one segment at a time, one step at a time.
Next you will ask him to move laterally through the hourglass pattern, with a change of direction in the center of the arena. Move into the short side of the arena, pass the first cone and go on to the second corner. Circle at the second cone and halt, move his hindquarters over until he is parallel to the long side then proceed laterally to the center cone gate. At the gate, circle around the cone nearest the rail from which you began, halt, move his hindquarters and continue laterally to the next corner, which should be on the same long side on which you started (see diagram). Continue around the cone, across the short side to the next cone, and repeat as before to complete the hourglass. Use an assistant to help direct your donkey in the beginning and fade out the assistant as your donkey understands and complies with your wishes. Do all of these exercises at the walk until he is impeccable. Then you can drive him through them at the trot with slows and halts in appropriate places.
If your donkey is large enough and seems to react better when you are in the saddle, you can begin these exercises mounted and teach him the ground-driving afterwards. Donkeys are very different in the way they each learn. The other consideration is your own skills. Handling drivelines is sometimes really tricky and you may be better with reins, legs and a crop than you are with drivelines and a whip. The important thing is that you give your donkey a clear message as to what is expected, so he can learn easily and without resistance. Just remember that, when you are riding, your cues need to be just as clear as they are when you drive him. You need to tell him verbally what is expected at each segment of the exercise and make clear pauses through transitions. Use your assistant whenever necessary to minimize resistance at any particular stage and reward your donkey lavishly for his honest attempts.
Once he has learned to drive and ride laterally in the arena, you can take your donkey to the obstacle course to put these movements to work. Begin with your assistant aiding you first in side-passing a log placed near the fence (to discourage your donkey from going forward), then a log in the open and side-passing a “T.” Try backing through two barrels in a figure-eight pattern using turns on the forehand and haunches to negotiate the pattern. Finally, teach him to move appropriately while you are opening and closing a gate, both on the drivelines and under saddle. Once he gets the idea on each obstacle, you can eliminate the assistant and ask him to take more responsibility for himself. He should be able to do everything he learns both under saddle and on the drivelines. There is no rule as to which he needs to learn first, but he should learn both under saddle and on the drivelines to be as responsive as he can possibly be, either in harness or under saddle.
In Part 1 of Equine Behavior: Look Who’s Talking, we discussed the evolution of man’s self-discovery and how he applied this to his approach to equines. If we want to manage our equines in a healthy way and accomplish even the most basic performance with them, there is much to consider during the training process. In Part 2 of Look Who’s Talking, we learned that equines are honest in nature and produce quick and honest reactions to a stimulus. Therapeutic Riding provides an exemplary teaching experience for both human and equine, and those of us with our own equines can now derive much more from the relationship than we ever thought possible.
During centuries of use, equines have been asked to perform many tasks, as they have always been essential tools in agriculture, for transportation in cities and as a fighting partner in the military. People who worked regularly with these animals had an appreciation for their general health and longevity. Although people were limited by their own experience, they would generally provide the best possible care because the equine was an integral part of their economy. Many horses and most mules and donkeys worked hard to build this world and support people in their endeavors. It is always amazing when one realizes just how much these animals have contributed to our wealth and welfare.
Original dressage training was concerned with the systematic conditioning of the body of the horse in a way that would make him a durable and viable war partner for soldiers. The horse was revered and allowed time for his body to mature and grow slowly. The training followed suit, yielding a healthy and formidable opponent in any competition. This goal was achieved only when the animal was trained in correct posture, and given adequate time to complete each stage of training as his own potential dictated.
When attention is given to the development of core muscle strength from the very beginning, the equine develops strength evenly throughout his body as he grows. Muscles are stressed and rested at critical intervals, allowing for healthy mental, physical and emotional growth. When the equine feels good in his body, it clears his mind to concentrate on his performance, and the result is an equine that is happy in his work and his world.
Colonel Alois Podhajsky (1898–1973), former head of the Spanish Riding School in Vienna, said, “I’ve got time!…We only can achieve the highest goals in the art of riding only when we increase our demands on the horse in a systematic manner.”1
The same holds true with any athlete. No animal can perform at their highest level and remain healthy without building up the body correctly over a significant period of time. Forcing and moving too fast through training levels does not allow healthy athletic conditioning to take place. This conditioning art is becoming lost in the economic world of today, as equines are no longer used for necessity. They have become a hobby or a sport in more developed countries, and are an economic necessity only in Third World countries that are not equipped to provide the extensive care that a healthy equine demands.
Dressage training has evolved from a useful tool to strengthen a useful horse to just another name in big business. Today, animals are thought of as economic “material” or a “breeding investment,” and are used in events such as Reining, Cutting, Stadium Jumping, racing, Steeple Chases, Eventing, hunting, Dressage and just-for-pleasure riding. Monetary investment is high, and never was the old adage “horse poor” more prevalent than now.
Owners can expect to spend thousands of dollars in a year for no more than a pleasure-riding equine, and the cost increases with the status of activities. The cost of supporting an equine provides economic success to a multitude of businesses, such as feed, tack and equipment, truck and trailer sales, drug companies, motels, gas stations, county fairgrounds, breed registrars, brand inspectors, clothing stores, veterinarians, farriers, and the list goes on.
In any business, moving product faster is always better because it decreases overhead costs. Anything long lasting takes more expense to produce and does not afford repeat customers as often for the same product and is, therefore, less valued. But good business sense is in direct opposition to what is actually good and healthy for the equine. Good business sense is what drives people to train equines faster, and why people ask young equines to perform way beyond their level of capability to promote a faster sale of the equine, which ultimately results in the untimely demise of that equine.
Breeding for bigger, better and faster equines has given people the false idea that these horses perform almost solely from their heredity. This has changed how they are being trained and judged. Today, many equine competitions are no longer judged by an expert who knows the definition of correct movement. We are inundated with terminology from the masters that is most often misunderstood and distorted.
For instance, “collection” is defined by the United States Equestrian Federation as, “a. to further develop and improve the balance and equilibrium of the horse which has been more or less displaced by the additional weight of the rider, b. to develop and increase the horse’s ability to lower and engage his hindquarters for the benefit of lightness and mobility of his forehand, and c. to add the ‘ease and carriage’ of the horse and to make him more pleasurable to ride.” To those who are not schooled in Dressage, collection can mean a lot of things that are contrary to the actual definition, including the belief that it means to merely break at the poll and arc the head and neck.
People also believe that an equine is “on the bit” if he arcs the head and neck and “flexes” at the poll, when this actually means that the equine has taken contact with the bit and can feel the hands of the rider through the reins and responds lightly and obediently whether his head and neck are arched or not. “Vertical flexion” is the result of correct “collection,” where the equine is flexible from head to tail with the hindquarters properly engaged. It is not the act of bringing the equine’s chin to his chest. “Lateral flexion” is when the equine bends his body, including his rib cage, to the arc of a circle, and is not just bending his head and neck to your knee.
All of these movements take many years to cultivate if they are to be done correctly, and there are specific exercises to do at every stage to make sure the equine is developing properly and executing these movements on his own, with only the most subliminal support from the rider. Most equines that are shown today are not engaged sufficiently behind and are doing “high school” movements out of good posture. They are clearly on the forehand and unbalanced.
If one is to develop the equine in a sound manner, then one must learn to appreciate the smaller victories at each stage of training and during each new lesson. One needs to learn to appreciate the incredible ways one can affect balance and movement during leading training. Leading training can teach the equine good balance, proprioception (body awareness) and regularity of the footfall patterns. The equine will become strong and balanced in his core muscles using these simple tasks and, when led over obstacles, coordination will be added to the mix. Only after your equine is able to take responsibility for his own balance and negotiation of these movements should he be asked to go to a round pen to learn to balance on the circle.
Only after he is able to sustain his own balance on the circle through all three gaits (walk, trot, canter)— stop, back and reverse— and has been ground driven long enough to submit to the bit through these same movements, should he be mounted and asked to carry a rider. Even lunging on a lunge line should first be taught in the round pen, so when you do take him in the open, he knows how to balance himself and can physically balance on the circle without tugging on the lunge line at all. The equine that has had the benefit of this core training will be safer on the trail and flawless at the shows. If you take the time to develop your equine properly—during all of these seemingly boring tasks—you might very well discover a healthier and happier you!
It is difficult for judges without roots in agriculture to have a conflict with the roar of the audience, as they see pretty equines with fancy moves. But if the judges do not hold true to what is correct and allow themselves to be swayed by the audience, the integrity of the equine industry is lost. Our equines will continue to be used and abused for profit and gain, and many equines will continue to suffer at the hands of the ignorant because there are no clear standards to educate people. The equine that is properly trained should appear to be performing by his volition. If he does not appear this way and is constrained or forced, he is not in correct posture or balance and cannot perform correctly. The integrity of his movement is lost and the longevity of his life is compromised.
When you take the time to feed, care for and train your equine as he should be trained as an athlete, his personality will begin to emerge. You will be surprised at the relationship you will have with him and the wondrous sensations you can feel when you are in real harmony with him. You will no longer be an observer but, rather, a friend and a partner in performance and in life. You will have laid the foundation for your personality and the personality of your equine to grow in the most positive way and meld with each other. The conversations you now have with your equine become a two-way street that will continue to inspire for all time, and will produce a “high” like no other!
“Neonatal isoerythrolysis (N.I.) is a condition in which the mare creates antibodies against the foal’s red blood cells, and then passes these antibodies to the foal via the colostrum. Once the foal absorbs these antibodies, they result in lysis* of the foal’s red blood cells within 24 to 36 hours after birth. This red blood cell destruction is widespread throughout the foal’s body and can lead to life-threatening anemia and/or jaundice. (This is similar to the human Rhesus, or Rh, factor, where a woman who is Rh-negative gives birth to her second or subsequent child that is Rh-positive, resulting in destruction of the newborn’s red blood cells.)”1
All legitimate mule breeders should be aware of this condition, especially because it can occur more often when breeding donkey jacks to mares than it does when breeding stallions to mares within the same species. If the hybrid foal’s blood type is the same as its mother’s, then there is no problem. However, when the jack and the mare have different blood types, and the foal possesses the jack’s blood type, there is potential for N.I. to occur.
On the surface of the mare’s red cells are antigens that will stimulate the production of antibodies against incompatible red blood cells (R.B.C.s). There are basically two ways that these R.B.C.s can get into her system:
1) If the foal’s R.B.C.s enter the mare’s circulation via the placenta during pregnancy or during delivery.
2) If the mare obtains these incompatible cells during a blood transfusion.
If neither of these conditions occurs, the mare can carry, birth and nurse her foal with no problem. However, if the incompatible red cells do somehow get into her system, she will begin making antibodies against those cells that, in turn, will be passed into the foal’s system via the mare’s first milk, or colostrum.
“Signs of neonatal isoerythrolysis depend upon the rate and severity of red blood cell destruction. Affected foals are born healthy, and then typically develop signs within 24 to 36 hours. In severe cases, the signs of N.I. may be evident within 12 to 14 hours, whereas in mild cases, signs may not be present until three or four days of age. N.I. foals will develop progressive anemia, thus leading to depression, anorexia, collapse and death. These foals may also develop pale mucous membranes that later become yellow or jaundiced.”2
The mare’s blood can be tested ahead of time to determine if she has a different blood type than the jack (or stallion), but a positive test result does not necessarily mean that N.I. will automatically occur, only that there is the possibility for occurrence. Blood samples from the mare and jack should be taken two to four weeks before the mare is due to foal to determine if she is producing antibodies against the foal’s red blood cells. If the blood test is positive, then precautions must be taken to save the foal at birth by making sure it is prevented from nursing its dam for the first 24 to 36 hours. The foal should be muzzled and bottle-fed colostrum from a mare that has not produced these same antibodies, and therefore is compatible with the foal. To be absolutely safe, the colostrum should be obtained and tested from a mare that has never had a mule foal.
For the best results in building the foal’s immune system, this “replacement” colostrum should be collected within the first six hours after birth. The mare being used does not need to be the same blood type as the foal, but her blood must not contain antibodies to the foal’s R.B.C.s. The quality of the colostrum will determine the amount fed to the foal. Immediately after birth, the foal should be given two to three feedings of colostrum within the first two hours, and then be given milk (for energy) for the first 24 to 36 hours after that. Goat’s milk is best for this purpose. After 24 to 36 hours, the foal should be able to be safely returned to its dam’s milk. If N.I. is present but is caught early enough, the foal can be transfused with blood and there is a chance that it may live, but this transfusion procedure has inherent risks and there are no guarantees of success.
Out of concern for future mule offspring, the Lucky Three Ranch—with the assistance of our veterinarian, Kent M. Knebel, D.V.M.; Colorado State University researcher, Josie Traub-Dargatz, D.V.M., M.S.; and Louisiana State University researcher, Jill McClure, D.V.M., M.S.—began thorough testing of Lucky Three Ranch stock in the early nineties, with particular attention paid to our breeding jack, Little Jack Horner. It was discovered by Dr. McClure that Little Jack Horner’s R.B.C.s were resulting in unidentifiable antibodies in many of the horse mares that carried his foals. The mares that were sampled had antibodies present, but Dr. McClure was unable to “type” the antibodies found in the mares.
The next step was to immunize some research horses at L.S.U. using Little Jack Horner’s R.B.C.s. If they made antibodies, Dr. McClure would have a more readily available source of antibodies for further research. She also took samples from some burros from another L.S.U. project and discovered that they, too, had the same R.B.C. factor that occurred in Little Jack Horner, but the antibodies produced in the mares were still unidentified. There was already quite a bit of medical and scientific data on N.I. that could help in the prevention of this potentially fatal condition. However, this discovery of new antibodies stimulated by the jack and produced by the mare proved that there was still a lot more that needed to be learned. All of Little Jack Horner’s tests showed him to be of a compatible blood type to the mares if he was a stallion of the same species, and yet these unknown antibodies were being produced. Perhaps future research will hold the answer to this puzzle.
A debt of gratitude is owed to veterinarians like Dr. Kent Knebel, who take time out of their busy schedules to collect samples for this research, and to dedicated researchers like Dr. Josie Traub-Dargatz and Dr. Jill McClure, who continue with this important research that benefits our mule industry and its future generations. Their ongoing research will continue to have a significant impact on mule breeding programs, not just here in the United States, but all over the world.
Research on N.I. has been done over the years on Thoroughbred horses, and statistics indicate that 20 percent have incompatibilities between dam and sire, yet only one percent of foals develop N.I. The incidence in mule breeding suggests that the rate is higher. The University of California at Davis has a laboratory set up to do this initial N.I. testing on mares. Consult with your veterinarian about contacting any facilities for information on how to collect and ship samples for N.I. testing, and for resources that can help in the process.
Establish a regular routine for feeding and management to avoid stressing pregnant mares and equines in general. Make your routine predictable.
Mules are cheaper to keep than horses. They are more durable animals and are more resistant to parasites and disease. They require less feed and lower protein to maintain good health. They are intelligent in potentially dangerous situations and will avoid harm to themselves. They require less hoof care than horses in many instances. Under reasonable conditions, trims are sufficient. Shoes are not necessarily needed. But as tough as they may be, they still need quality care and management.
Your equine depends upon you for his safety and well-being. The best feed in the world won’t keep him in good health if you neglect other important things such as vaccinations and worming. It’s up to you to create a program to prevent disease and control parasites. Cleanliness is very important. Make sure feed boxes are clean and manure is removed from stalls and paddocks. Do not feed hay or grain on the floor or anywhere it may become contaminated with manure. Similarly, small, heavily used pastures tend to build up a heavy parasite load. Pastures should be rotated and harrowed as frequently as possible to break the life cycle of the parasites. We never graze our equines on the fields we use for harvesting hay.
Internal parasites are the most common danger to the health and well-being of your equine.
Consult with your veterinarian to set up a parasite prevention and control program. At the Lucky Three Ranch, we worm every eight weeks in January, March, May, July and September with Ivermectin, and then break the cycle with Strongid in November.
Always keep an eye out for anything that might injure your equine, and remove or repair it. Assemble your own equine first aid kit, and with help from your veterinarian, learn the proper use of each item in the kit. Be prepared to handle any situation before the vet arrives.
When signs of infectious disease appear, isolate infected animals promptly and call your veterinarian right away.
Training and handling of all your equines should focus on good manners and consistency in leading them all the time so they will be well-behaved when being handled by a professional. For safety’s sake, a handler should always be present when a professional comes to do his job. It is not his responsibility to manage the behavior of the equine. Being consistent and calm with your equines will make professional visit much easier.
Many veterinarians and farriers refuse to work on mules. Some are slaves to the old wives’ tales about mules being stubborn, ornery and dangerous, and some are subject to owners who cannot manage their own animals. The professionals that primarily studied with horses are more apt to be tolerant of a misbehaving horse than of a misbehaving mule. They have a better idea of what to expect and how to deal with it.
Veterinarians and Farriers agree on many of their complaints about equine owners: (1) often the animal is not up and ready for treatment upon their arrival; (2) the animals are not handled regularly or trained correctly and are difficult to treat; (3) owners use excitable disciplinary tactics while the professional is working on the animal, putting him in physical jeopardy; and (4) owners do not follow up on treatment instructions. True, these complaints apply to both horse and mule owners. To dispel old rumors about mules, it is important that all your equines are easily managed. The veterinarian or Farrier will not be as quick to forgive a mule. The mule foal learns his behavior from his dam. A calm and obedient mare makes for a calm and obedient foal.
Engage with your veterinarian for regular vaccinations and boosters. The pregnant mare should be current on all vaccinations. Seek your vet’s recommendations for immunizations and faithfully follow an annual vaccination program. Make sure you keep good records of vaccinations and worming, and be sure to keep track of when they’re next due.
Vaccines are given based on your geographic location—consult your local veterinarian before proceeding.
Four-way vaccine
Rhino pneumonitis
Potomac horse fever vaccine
West Nile
Rabies
Main shots are given in spring, one time
Booster shot in fall
You are the one that interacts with the animal most often and should know the details that the vet could not possibly know. Good records are important for clear communication with your vet. With each visit, update him on your equine’s management & training status. Alert the vet as to any changes in the equine’s behavior or medical status. Ask questions and learn about what your vet is doing with each visit to increase your knowledge and understanding.
One of the best ways to monitor your equine’s health is by establishing a daily grooming routine. Not only will he be rewarded with a shiny coat, but you can watch for cuts and bruises and check the condition of the feet. When the foal is born, it will be further lessons in “imprinting.”
Discuss a plan of action with your vet to prepare for the N.I. foal.
Neonatal isoerythrolysis,( abbreviated as N.I) is a complex biological puzzle that must be understood if you are expecting a newborn. N.I. can threaten the life of your mule foal especially if your mare has previously had a mule foal. It is similar to the problem seen in human babies called RH incompatibility, and it is becoming more and more common. I highly recommend that you check with your veterinarian before breeding mules.
As in RH incompatibility in humans, if the foal’s blood type is the same as the mare’s blood type, there is no problem. If the foal’s blood type is different from the mare’s, antibodies may be created in the mare’s blood. That is when the problems begin. Mares should be tested for the possibility for an N.I. baby 1-3 weeks before foaling, but you can also test at 30 days before foaling, and again later closer to the time of foaling, to allow more preparation time. Consult your veterinarian well before the mare’s delivery date to make a plan for testing.
When a newborn foal suckles from its mother for the first time, the mare produces special milk called colostrum, which is usually full of vitamins and immunity builders for the newborn. But for an N.I. foal, that colostrum can be deadly because it is full of antibodies directed against its red blood cells. Within the first few days of life, the foal with severe NI will weaken and without treatment can die.
Preparation for the N.I. foal:
Decide on a foaling location. Decide about the birth location…at home, or remotely managed. If she is to be foaling at home, pick a large stall and run to allow for plenty of room and easy access to the mare and foal. It is helpful to install a camera for monitoring the mare since you must catch the foal before it suckles the mare. Keep the mare and foal inside a safe stall for the first 24-36 hours. The stall and run can be next to other animals fence provided there are no health risks. Having other equines near can help to keep the mare from feeling alone and anxious.
Consult with your veterinarian and begin your search for replacement colostrum well ahead of time and keep it on hand and stored properly. Your veterinarian can help to find potential sources . You can either purchase the Colostrum from some sources, and others might ask you for a trade of Colostrum for their banks. Be sure to have replacement Colostrum tested and on hand for the N.I. foal well in advance of foaling.
Be sure to have a muzzle on hand for the N.I. foal. Do not confuse a grazing muzzle with an N.I. muzzle. You can obtain an N.I. Foal Muzzle from:
Ideal for keeping a foal from nursing on an NI positive mare or disturbing wraps on itself or its dam. Constructed of leather, so the foal can be turned out with the muzzle on. One size with an adjustable crown.
Leather Foal Muzzle Ideal for keeping a foal from nursing on an NI positive mare or disturbing wraps on itself or its dam. Constructed of leather, so the foal can be turned out with the muzzle on. One size with an adjustable crown.
Soft yet durable chap leather, bridle leather crown piece and solid brass hardware. Large air slits and soft suede inside. A Foal with Rh disease can stay with its mother.
Made To Order
Traditional Craftsmanship
Kentucky Made
Repair and Engraving Shop
At Birth Care
Be present for the birth of the foal, imprint, and muzzle the foal immediately. Tie the mare to a stout post in the stall next to the feeder (with about 3’ of slack), take the muzzle off of the foal, feed the foal replacement colostrum and after the predetermined amount of colostrum has been provided over the first few hours of life Milk out the mare every 2 hours. When you are bottle feeding the foal, position him at the mare’s flank. Putting him onto the mare to suckle later will then be easier. Have grass hay in the feeder to help keep the mare occupied while you work. Make sure the foal starts to receive the replacement colostrum as soon as it has a suckle reflex. Consult with your veterinarian about the amount to feed the foal at each feeding and how often to feed the foal.
After 24 hours (but to be completely safe, you might want to opt for 36-48 hours after birth), the muzzle can be removed and the foal can be put onto the mare. Just tie her and take your position at her hip. The foal should follow. Instead of offering the bottle, take off the muzzle and push the foal’s head underneath to her teats. You can use your body to stabilize his position. As he searches for the teats, just be patient and hold your position.
When the muzzle is removed, you can open the stall door and they can be turned into the run together (with the stall door remaining open). Keep them both separated from other animals until the foal is finally weaned. The foal should not be weaned until he is sixth months old. They should not be turned out with other animals to prevent the risk of injury to the foal. If there are other mares with foals, they are safe turnout mates.
N.I. is not a necessarily a death sentence for N.I. foals, but it does take proper management for success. The most important thing will be cooperative communication and timely implementation of the plans you have made with your veterinarian.
After discussing this with my veterinarian, Greg Farrand from Fort Collins, Colorado, we both agree that since horses, mules and donkeys are all equines, it would be difficult to make any distinction among these three types of animals with regard to their vital signs: pulse respiration and temperature. They would all fall within the designated ranges below that are excerpted from my book, “A Guide to Raising & Showing Equines.” The only real differences would be with regard to each individual equine and not among groups of equines. There has not been any credible scientific study to be able to differentiate the different types of equine groups in this manner and I would venture to guess that it would be the same with all equines, including zebras and hybrids. Therefore, I believe that citing the vital signs ranges would be appropriate, but not citing medians (modals).
Daytime rectal temp mule foal/yearling 37.5C-38.5C normal range
Pulse at rest – adult mule; normal 26-40
Pulse at rest foals 2-4 weeks; normal range 70-90
Pulse at rest mule 6-12 months; normal range 45-60
Pulse at rest mule 2-3 years; 40-50
Actual differences would be as follows:
Horse
Reactive-Flight reflex
Fragile health
More bulk musculature
(like a weight lifter)
Awkward on uneven ground
Round platter-type hooves
Longer slope to shoulders and hips
Limited stamina
Energy waster
Forgets what he learns
More reactive than intelligent
Neigh – exhale
64 chromosomes
Self-preservation not strong
Tolerant of humans
Expensive to maintain
Can have excessive vet bills
Constant hoof management needed
Cannot see their hind feet
Can only kick forward and Backwards
Colors strictly defined within the breeds
Mature at six years
Will fight if entangled
Low level training goes quickly,
but not necessarily remembered
Upper level training improves
generally at the same rate
Mules
Thinking & Reactive-freeze/flight reflexes
Tougher/more resistant to parasites
and disease
Predominantly smooth muscle with
some bulk (combination of
smooth & bulk muscle)
More sure-footed than a horse
Oval, narrow, more upright hoof
structure than a horse
Steeper shoulders and hips than horses
Incredible stamina
Energy conserver
Remembers everything he learns
Very intelligent
Neigh-bray or combination
thereof – inhale and exhale
Generally 63 chromosomes
Strong sense of self preservation
Suspicious, but very
affectionate toward humans
Cheaper to keep – more durable
Fewer vet bills
Tougher hooves – less management
Can see their hind feet
Can kick, forward,
backwards and sideways
More variations in color
contributed by both parents
Mature at eight years
Will wait to be rescued if entangled
Low level training take more time
Upper level training goes faster
Donkey
Thinking equine-freeze reflex
Same as a mule (genetic contribution)
Predominantly smooth muscle
Most sure-footed
Oval, narrow, more upright
hoof structure than a mule
Steeper shoulders
and hips than a mule
Virtually intolerant to stress
Most energy conserver
Remembers, but only
complies when he wants to
Most intelligent
Bray-inhale and exhale
62 chromosomes
Ultimate sense of
self-preservation
Generally, very affectionate
toward humans
Cheapest to keep – very durable
Least number of vet bills
Toughest hooves – least
management needed
Can see their hind feet
Same as the mule
Less variations in
color than the mule
Mature at eight years
Will break loose or wait
to be rescued if entangled
Low level training takes
the most time
Not necessarily interested
in upper level training
It is important that your equine feels safe and comfortable in his surroundings. For this reason, you should use the same place each day to groom and prepare him for his lessons. In the beginning, use a small pen (approximately 400 to 500 square feet) that allows you access to your equine for imprinting, tying, leading and grooming, as described in DVDs #1 and #8 of my series, Training Mules & Donkeys(plus disc #9 when dealing with donkeys), and in Part 1 of Equus Revisited. All the while, you will also be teaching him good ground manners. Remember, routine fosters confidence and trust.
Once your equine has mastered tying and leading in the small pen, he can then move on to a designated work station where he will not only be groomed, but will also learn to accept tack in preparation for the round pen. This should be a place that has a good stout hitch rail and easy access to your tack and grooming equipment.
When working around your equine at the work station, pay special attention to his body language. If he becomes tense or skittish, acknowledge his concerns with a stroke on his neck, supportive words to him and a reward of crimped oats when he settles down. Always learn to wait for him to settle down before you proceed.
Don’t make too much out of unimportant details. For instance, if your equine is pawing the ground, don’t insist that he be still unless you need to approach him and do something specific with him. Many of your animal’s anxious behaviors get unintentionally rewarded by giving him too much attention, which can actually cause the behaviors to escalate. If you ignore pawing, cribbing, throwing of the head, pushing with the nose, stomping and other anxious behaviors, they will lessen over time, provided that you step in, ask him to stop and reward your animal, but only when he is being quiet.
Before you begin to groom your equine—whether you’re going to brush, vacuum or clip him—make sure you give him the time to figure out what you are going to do. He will exhibit his acceptance with a sigh, relaxation of his musclesor with a turn or dropping of the head. Once he has accepted the presence of the item to be used, such as a brush, vacuum or clippers, you can begin. Don’t forget to always start at the front and work your way back to the tail.
Keep an eye on the pressure you apply whenever using these various grooming tools. Different animals will have different sensitivity to these tools and will tolerate them better if they know you are not going to cause undue pressure or pain. Learn to brush the mane and tail starting at the bottom and working upward, and use a conditioner such as baby oil to keep from pulling or breaking the hair. (Baby oil will also keep other equines from chewing on the tail.) A shedding blade can be an uncomfortable grooming tool when used improperly. When using a shedding blade to remove mud around the head and ears and even on your animal’s body, be careful to minimize his discomfort by monitoring the pressure you apply to each area and working VERY slowly. When bathing him, be extra careful not to get water in his eyes or ears. These types of consideration for your equine’s comfort will help build his trust and confidence in you, and it will help make training easier and more enjoyable for both of you.
Tack and Equipment
In order to elicit the correct response from your equine, always make sure you are using the correct tack for whatever you are doing. If you are not sure about what tack to use when, go to the Lucky Three Ranch website for more detailed information, or ask the experts in your area. Make sure all tack and equipment fits your animal properly. If it doesn’t, it can cause adverse behaviors during training.
In the Round Pen
Once your equine is leading well in the small pen, he should be in consistently good posture with square halts, easily negotiating trail obstacles in the open and relatively relaxed while at the work station, he is ready to move to the round pen.
Once in the round pen, you will have an opportunity to assess your animal’s progress so you can begin work on balancing on the circle in good posture and conditioning the hard muscle masses in preparation for performance. The size of your round pen is important—45 feet in diameter is ideal. If it is any larger, as you will have difficulty reaching him with the lunging whip, which means you won’t be able to have enough control over him. If your round pen it is any smaller, it will interfere with your equine’s balance and ability to develop the right muscle groups. It should be made with relatively solid walls and be high enough so your animal cannot jump out. Your round pen can be made of a variety of different of materials, such as 2-inch by 12-inch boards and posts or stock panels. Never use electric fencing, pallets, tires or other non-solid materials. The ground surface should be a three- to four-inch–thick base of soft dirt or sand.
While working in the round pen, be aware of how your own body language and verbal commands elicit certain behaviors in your animal. If something isn’t working right, look to yourself and ask yourself what you might be doing to cause the adverse behavior you are seeing. Equines are very honest about their responses, and if they are not doing what you expect, it has to be in the way you are asking. Also, don’t hurry your equine. When asking for the walk, make sure that the walk is even in cadence, balanced and regular—not hurried. Only after your animal is correct in his execution of one gait, should you move on to the next gait. When first introduced to the round pen, it is not uncommon for an equine to begin work at the trot and then, as he becomes more comfortable with the new area, at the walk.
If you just let your equine go in an unrestricted frame, he can build muscle incorrectly, which will most likely cause problems later on. To be sure you are building muscle evenly throughout his body, in the correct posture and on both sides, use the “Elbow Pull” self-correcting restraint I devised, as described in DVD #2 of Training Mules & Donkeys.
As explained in DVD #1 of Training Mules & Donkeys, while you were doing passive exercises on the lead rope in the small pen, you were also building the core muscle groups that are closest to the bone. Now that you are in the round pen, you will begin to build your equine’s bulk muscle in strategic areas that will strengthen him and make carrying a rider or pulling a cart a lot easier for him. It will also minimize the chance for soreness or injury, as well as resistant behaviors. Keep sessions short, 30-40 minutes, and only every other day at the most. When muscles are exercised, they need to be stressed to a point just before fatigue, and then rested afterwards for one day before repeating. This is the correct and safe way to build muscle. Any other approach will cause fatigue and actually start deteriorating muscle tissue. Remember to use relaxation techniques and warm-up and cooling down exercises with your equine before and after every workout.
In the Arena
The arena is the place to really start focusing on forward motion and lateral exercises to further strengthen your equine, and it is the place to begin fine-tuning his balance while he is carrying a rider. The arena is also a good place for you to fine-tune your own riding skills, so that you learn to help your equine maintain good balance and cadence, on straight lines and while bending through the corners. In order for your equine to correctly go through the corners, you will be asking him to bend the muscles through his ribcage so he can remain upright and balanced. Equines are not motorcycles and should not lean around the corners. The power should always come from the hindquarters to keep the front end light, supple and responsive to cues. If his front end is heavy and sluggish, your equine is not adequately stepping underneath with his hind legs and will thus, lose forward impulsion and power and will not properly condition his muscles.
Open Areas
Open areas are good for stretching and relaxing at all three gaits. They can be used for negotiation of obstacles and to execute large flowing patterns. You can also practice stretching exercises, as described in DVD #5 of Training Mules & Donkeys. Then proceed to working on more collection on the short sides of the arena, and go back to stretching exercises again before you quit the lesson. The open areas allow for a wide variety of training exercises by giving you the space to use numerous patterns and obstacles. Try using cones to mark your patterns—this benefits both you and your animal by helping you both stay focused. An arena without cones is like a house without furniture.
As far as the open road and in traffic, these areas are forseasoned animals only, so please do not even consider using these areas to school your equine—the results could be disastrous! With the heavy traffic these days, it is really safest to avoid heavily traveled roads entirely. For a pleasureable experience, stick to areas where you and your equine will be safe and comfortable.
To learn more about Meredith Hodges and her comprehensive all-breed equine training program, visit LuckyThreeRanch.com or call 1-800-816-7566. Check out her children’s website at JasperTheMule.com. Also, find Meredith on Facebook, YouTube and Twitter.
Over the past few decades, through trial and error, we equine owners and trainers have discovered that, when communicating with our equines, harsh bits are not really necessary. Rather, it is safer and more beneficial to use milder tack and equipment, to concentrate on learning correct body language and to give clear cues with our hands, seat and legs to elicit the desired response from our equines.
Nowadays, at the beginning of training, more and more riders are learning to ride “by the seat of their pants;” that is, using body language through the seat, legs and hands, rather than with brute force through the bit. Once a rarity, riding bridleless, or bitless is now part of a preferred way of training for both the equine and the rider.
If you are training your equine at home—in a controlled situation and under optimum conditions—riding bridleless and using the right kinds of techniques can be relatively easy, but there is more to consider than just getting the right response from your equine. As long as you are in a controlled situation, it is safe to ride bridleless for general pleasure riding, but if you become involved in showing at the advanced levels of performance, such as the higher levels of Dressage, Jumping and Combined Training, a finer-tuned communication, which bitless bridles or bridleless riding cannot necessarily provide, is necessary.
When it comes to rider/equine communication, bitless and/or brideless techniques do not work as well as the simple, direct rein action of the snaffle bit in concert with your seat and legs.Many people are under the impression that having a bit in the mouth is painful for an equine, and the seeming “nutcracker” action of the snaffle bit when it is in your hands suggests that it might pinch your animal’s tongue when you pull on the reins. The mouthpiece of the snaffle bit actually “breaks” in the middle, allowing it to slide easily across the top of your equine’s tongue. It does not pinch his tongue, but it does put pressure on the corners of his mouth. The snaffle bit is correctly defined as a bit that promotes “direct rein action,” meaning that when you pull right, you go right and when you pull left, you go left. A snaffle bit does not have a shank. If it did have a shank, it would be considered a curb bit, regardless of how short the shank really is (as is the case with a Tom Thumb bit).
When you pull the rein on a snaffle bit to indicate your direction of travel, the leading rein pulls on the ring that guides the equine into the direction of travel, while the ring on the other side “pushes” his head into that same direction. Always be sure you are light with your hands and that you gently pull with a squeeze/release action or you could easily pull the snaffle bit all the way through the equine’s mouth, which would cause him pain and break the line of communication.
When you pull directly sideways on a curb bit, it pulls in the direction of travel where the reins are attached at the bottom of the shank, but the upper part of the shank pushes against your equine’s cheek on the same side and can cause confusion by sending simultaneous and opposite signals to your equine because he is being “pushed” in both directions at the same time. It is important to learn to ride with your balance coming primarily from your seat, which your equine can easily follow with the slightest indications from the direct rein snaffle bit and your legs. This will also promote a more secure rider position in your seat, making it easier for you to use the gentle squeeze/release motions with your hands. This way, your equine is encouraged into the direction of travel by the body language of your seat and is gently “guided” by your leading rein, while simultaneously being “pushed” into the correct direction of travel by the off-side ring of the snaffle bit and by your legs.
Learning to go forward in the beginning of your equine’s training in a snaffle bridle is paramount to properly developing his body so he will learn to carry a rider in a strong and solid frame and in good equine posture. The forward training teaches him to stretch his head and neck forward, to step well underneath his body to propel himself forward, and to elongate his overall frame to keep the vertebrae in his back from becoming compressed and rigid. When he is moving correctly in a straight line, he will have more suspension and flexibility to his gait, and when he turns he will be able to bend easily through his rib cage.
Although it would seem that a bitless bridle could achieve this same end, it has a different action on your equine’s head and neck, which inhibits proper bending through turns. The straight forward motion can be achieved with a bitless bridle. However, reins on a bosal (a type of braided rawhide noseband used with the hackamore-type headstall), bitless bridle reins, and other bitless configurations do not have the same lateral effect on the equine’s head and neck as does the snaffle bit. The equine’s head and neck form two sides of a triangle. The rope reins on a bosal, although lower on the nose of the equine than reins that come from the corners of the mouth, can cause the equine’s head to twist slightly sideways during the turn because, during any directional indication, the rawhide bosal around the nose twists through the rope reins which are both secured together underneath the jaw. The rope reins pull the underside of the bosal in the direction of the turn, but the nosepiece goes the opposite way and can cause your equine to improperly tilt his head through the turns. On bitless bridles, the reins are attached substantially higher than the corners of the equine’s mouth. When you pull on the reins attached higher on the equine’s jaw than where the bit would be as is the case with a halter or bitless bridle, the angle of pull is sharper and more abrupt, since the head side of the “triangle” is so much shorter than the length of the neck. It will cause the equine to try to turn his head too sharply from the poll, which can cause kinks and pain in his neck.
However, when using the snaffle bit, the direct rein pull coming from the corners of the equine’s mouth affords him a wider range of motion with his head and neck. He is able to stretch his head and neck forward and around in a properly executed horizontal arc through the turn, which in turn, opens the spaces between his vertebrae, allowing him to bend his head and neck into the arc of the turn, painlessly and with greater ease.
To prove the point, try this experiment. Preferably using an untrained animal, take hold of the halter and gently but firmly pull on the halter in an attempt to make him bend his head and neck to the side. The higher position of the halter is like a bitless bridle and you will feel slight tension and resistance to this action before the animal finally complies. Next, gently insert two fingers into one corner of the equine’s mouth while standing at his shoulder and by squeezing and releasing your fingers, ask him to turn his head and neck to the side toward you. If done correctly, without yanking on him, he should give easily to your cue to submit and turn his head and neck. You will notice that he extends his head and neck slightly forward before turning it to the side.
Now try this action on yourself. Stand in good posture and, without extending your neck, turn your head to the side. Do you feel the tension at the brainstem on the back of your neck? Now, stand in good posture, stretch your neck in an upward and forward arc and then look around the turn. Can you now feel the release from tension in the back of your neck? Your equine experiences the same feelings. The shorter angle of the side-pulls and bitless bridles will have a more abrupt pull and can cause some pain, while the longer angle coming from the snaffle bit at the corners of his mouth will allow a smoother and painless response. NOTE: Any bit can be painful to an animal when in the hands of an inexperienced rider who uses only the bit for control.
When an equine has been properly schooled and has learned the rules of communication through the snaffle bit, he holds the bit in his mouth and waits for the “feel” of the rider’s cues at the corners of his mouth. After years of practice, he will learn to respond to seat and legs and may not even need constant support of the rein cues—except for minute corrections. As equine and rider progress together, the rider’s cues will become nearly imperceptible until the rider is virtually riding without the active use of the reins. The equine has learned to quietly carry the bit in his mouth in anticipation of any communication coming through the reins. There is no pain because there is no pressure, except for an occasional reminder with a soft squeeze/release of the rider’s little pinky fingers on the reins from time to time.
The equine that has not had this kind of advanced training will possess neither genuinely good posture nor the knowledge of how to respond correctly in an abrupt and unpredictable situation. He will be more apt to be frightened and, as a result, may bolt and run, putting you and everyone around you at risk. However, the equine that is properly and conscientiously taught how to communicate through the snaffle bit will be a safer and more reliable animal to ride and to take into public places. He has learned to stop and wait for cues (communication through the bit) and is less likely to bolt and run if frightened because he understands and trusts the communication coming from his rider. He will now be more correct and solid in his good posture, yielding confidence in his attitude, and he will be a more reliable pleasure and show animal to ride.
When you take the time to train yourself to ride a balanced seat effectively and get in sync with your equine, you will be a much safer and happier rider, and your “finished” equine will be one that is always dependable. If you like the novelty of bitless and/or brideless riding, using a snaffle bit instead of a bitless bridle during training will help you to achieve strength in correct posture to enhance bitless riding and even brideless riding so that it can be done safely around the farm and in controlled situations like event demonstrations. Properly and consistently training with the goal of clear lines of communication between you and your equine will make everything you ask of him much easier for him to do, and he will become a happy, reliable and willing partner in your mutually satisfying relationship.
Covered in TRAINING MULES & DONKEY: A LOGICAL APPROACH TO TRAINING, TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE, EQUUS REVISITED and A GUIDE TO RAISING & SHOWING MULES at www.luckythreeranchstore.com
In Part3, your equine was properly strengthened and balanced in good posture during the more passive exercises in leading training over obstacles. Now, in the fourth and final part of this article, you and your equine will head to the round pen and learn how to balance correctly on the circle at the faster gaits. You’ll also learn the more advanced and quicker moves that are required under saddle and in harness.
Only after you have adequately completed lead line flatwork and obstacle training is your equine truly ready to move on to the round pen and begin lunging and learning to balance on a circle at the more active gaits. At this stage, he should be complying willingly, walking with the lead rope slung over his neck and with his head at your shoulder. By now, his core muscles should be properly conditioned and strong enough to support his skeletal system during more active use and more complicated movements. Note: The equine that has not had this prior lead line balance and good posture training will have difficulty in the round pen because he has not learned to stay erect and bend his body through the rib cage when on arcs and circles.
When you are lunging your equine, stand close to the center of the round pen, focus your eyes on the lower part of your equine’s haunches, and then give the verbal command to “Walk on.” Let your eyes and whip follow his haunches while you stand in the center of the round pen. If you want him to stop, say “Whoa,” and then move your eyes and body sideways so that you are more in front of him. Then raise your head and eyes to meet his eyes. If you want him to do a reverse, give the verbal command to “Reverse,” move your body sideways and crack the whip smartly in front of him. You should now be almost directly in front of him, looking him straight in the eye. It is the movement of your body that will make the difference between the halt and the turn. Notice how these subtle differences in your body affect what he does. If you practice these movements correctly and consistently, you will begin to see an improvement in your own body language and in your equine’s response. It doesn’t matter what anyone else does or says; you go right ahead and take the time you need to work out each maneuver with your equine. Accuracy is preferred over speed.
Lunging involves a lot more than just running your equine around in a circle. It affords you a tremendous opportunity to see the affect your body language has on your equine’s reactions. Lunging also helps you to understand how you can fine-tune the communication between the two of you while developing balanced, cadenced and rhythmic gaits in your animal. So start slow and don’t let things go beyond what you can easily control.
With the use of the “Elbow Pull” (instructions on how to make an “Elbow Pull” are given in the Equus Revisited DVD), your equine will begin to build muscle over a correct postural frame. This is much better than letting him develop muscle out of good posture, and then having to go back later and break down established muscle that is out of frame and causing problems. The “Elbow Pull” is not in any way abusive. It is, in fact, a “self-correcting” support, designed to simply suggest to an equine that he stay in good posture. If he stays in good posture, he feels nothing uncomfortable. But if he gets out of good posture, it puts a humane but firm pressure on his poll, his bit, behind his forearms and over his back. This is not unlike the grandmother who insisted that, to assure good posture, you walk with a book on your head. It may have sounded silly at first, but as you got older, you were happy you did it because it taught you good posture that eventually became a healthy and habitual way of moving. The “Elbow Pull” serves the same purpose for your equine and provides support when he cannot consistently hold good posture—he learns a healthy and habitual way of moving.
Before your equine learns to balance with a rider, he must first build muscle so he can sustain his own balance on the circle before carrying a rider. This is also true if you want your animal to learn to lunge on a lunge line. An equine that has not had enough time in the round pen establishing strength, coordination and balance on the circle will have difficulty on the lunge line, because even the slightest pressure on the line will pull him off-balance. Loss of balance will cause stress and even panic in your equine, which can result in him pulling the lunge line right out of your hands and running off. This is not disobedience but rather, fear caused by a loss of balance so do not punish him for this reaction. The animal that has had strength built on the circle before lunging and riding will not exhibit these undesirable behaviors, which are often misinterpreted as disobedience.
Lunging will begin to develop hard muscle over the core muscles and tendons you have already spent so many months strengthening. It will further enhance your equine’s ability to perform and stay balanced in action. As this becomes his true way of going, you will notice that even his play patterns begin to change dramatically. Be sure to be consistent with your verbal commands during these beginning stages, as they set the stage for better communication going forward.
After your equine has learned verbal commands while lunging, your next step is to train him to be equally responsive to verbal commands in conjunction with the drivelines. This is done first in the round pen, and then in an open arena, (which will introduce him to a larger space where he will need to become even more responsive to your rein cues).
I have found that, in most cases, the larger the animal, the more docile the personality, which seems to be a general rule of thumb. I have also learned that, if a donkey or mule has a tendency to bolt and run, it’s because they don’t necessarily agree with what you are trying to do or how you are trying to do it. Even though horses usually comply fairly easily, it is important to remember that any disobedience on the part of any equine is ALWAYS the handler’s fault. Regardless of the personality type of an equine, he will always have an honest response to any stimulus. If you ask in the right way, you will get the desired response.
If your equine wants to bolt when you ground-drive from behind, walk beside him and gradually lengthen the distance, one inch at a time, until he has accepted the drivelines correctly—no matter how long it takes. But don’t work on lessons more than 20 to 40 minutes every other day, and make sure he gets his crimped oats reward for “Whoa” and “Back.” I give a lot of “Back” commands while ground driving close to an animal, and I repeat “Back” frequently at every increased or decreased distance behind him. Keep things at a very slow walk until you feel relaxation through the drivelines (there should be no hint of pulling). Stay calm and deliberate and go slowly—be willing to take all the time in the world, if necessary. Whether you are just beginning training, or are already working under saddle, while you and your equine are going to and from the work areas, and during any ground interaction, always review the lessons in showmanship covered in DVDs #1, #8 and #9 of my series, Training Mules & Donkeys before moving on to any new exercises. This will help your equine to really and truly bond with you on a very personal level. If you have multiple equines, be sure to treat every equine as your very favorite whenever you interact with them.
Certain personality types such as slow learners, over-achievers or sensitive individuals do take longer to come around, but when treated with plenty of patience, kindness, trust and respect, they usually do. These personality types may not necessarily be suitable for driving, but they can be quite suitable for under saddle. In fact, once they do come around, the more “difficult” equines, especially those that have previously been neglected or abused, often bond more strongly with you and look to you as their “protector.” They are grateful for your patience and kindness. These are sometimes the ones who will end up having more “spirit” and thus, more athletic tendencies and ability.
Because I have dealt with many animals that were high strung, I have learned that they require tremendous patience, but I also know that they can come around. You might just need to back up and do things even more slowly and more meticulously than you ever thought you would need to, but if you do, you should see some positive results. If you lower your expectations for a while and try to have more fun with the basics, chances are that your equine will, too.
Always make sure you work in areas that are adequately and safely fenced so that, if your equine bolts, you can more easily catch him again. If he bolts, DO NOT, under any circumstances, hold onto the reins, lead or drivelines. Just let go of the lead or drivelines if you are on the ground, and let the reins loose if you are in the saddle. Whether he is on the lead line, in the drivelines or under saddle, when your equine realizes that you aren’t going to play “tug-o-war,” that he will get a reward for staying put, and that it is a waste of his energy to keep running, he will bolt less and less until the unwanted behavior has stopped.
When ground driving, you should not worry about the whip while in the round pen, as the walls will help guide your animal in maintaining the correct position. What you really need to do is keep even contact on both lines (reins) when going in a straight line (or, when in the round pen, on the circle). To get your equine to begin stepping laterally, slightly tighten the outside driveline while maintaining contact on the inside driveline, so that he cannot complete the turn. Stay directly behind his haunches and urge him forward. This will cause him to begin to step sideways, with his face to the wall. Take only a couple of steps this way, and then slowly straighten him out again—you can build-in more lateral steps as he begins to understand what you want. Be sure to reward him with crimped oats every time you halt.
Once you begin ground driving in the open, you can then carry your whip in your right hand. Feed the line into your right hand under your third, fourth and fifth fingers, and then up between your thumb and index finger. The whip handle will be held in the palm and also come up between your thumb and index finger. Tilt this hand to tap the right and left sides of your animal’s body. The left-hand driveline is fed over the index finger and held by the thumb, and then falls down through the palm. To set the bend for the leg yield (opposite from the way your equine will be tracking), shorten the inside rein and hold it steady. Not too much of a bend—you just want to be able to see his eye on that side. Then squeeze and release the directing (right-hand) driveline to indicate that you want him to move in the direction you are squeezing and releasing. Be sure to give plenty of release between pulls so he doesn’t go too far sideways at first. This should be a leg yield action and not a “side pass.” The “side pass” will come later, as he better understands what you want. If he doesn’t follow your leading rein, you can encourage him to move over by tapping him gently on his opposite side. It can be very awkward at first, but with time and patience, these movements (both his and yours) will continue to improve.
Only after he is light and responsive to all commands in the round pen and he ground-drives well in the open arena, should you mount him and begin riding in the round pen. When he is light and responsive in the bridle in the round pen, you can then ride in the open, but continue to work in the open arena on perfecting his technique and his responsiveness in the snaffle bit.
You need to be willing to spend the time to teach these things slowly and in an order that will make sense to your equine, so he is not faced with learning too much too quickly. As you have probably already experienced, when you hurry through this process, he may be able to do certain movements, but he will not be responsive to your cues. Unresponsiveness is a sure sign that there has just not been enough time for the lessons he is learning to become his habitual way of responding.
If an animal is trained with sequential, resistance-free training techniques and is given adequate time on groundwork training (a minimum of one year on the lead line and a second year on lunging and ground driving), he will warm up to other people more easily and will be more “sensible” than those animals that are not trained this way. Each new owner should take the time to review these techniques with newly acquired equines, just to create their own personal relationship with that animal and dispel the negativity of any prior relationships the animal might have had. Spending time doing simple basic groundwork training before actually riding allows your relationship with your equine to develop in a safe and healthy way. It will teach both you (the handler) and your equine how to communicate clearly and effectively. The exercises described in this article will condition your equine’s body so he can more easily carry a rider (whether the rider is balanced or not), and help your equine to be more capable of executing whatever demands the future may hold.
Remember that patience, kindness, respect and consideration from you will yield the same qualities in return from your equine. When you take the time to cultivate a good relationship with him, you will find that you have a much safer and happier riding and driving companion.
To learn more about Meredith Hodges and her comprehensive all-breed equine training program, visit LuckyThreeRanch.com or call 1-800-816-7566. Check out her new children’s website at JasperTheMule.com. Also, find Meredith on Facebook, YouTube and Twitter.
In Part 1 of this article, you learned how to begin your relationship with your miniature equine in a positive and natural way, and how “getting down” to their eye level so they can make eye contact with you discourages striking, jumping on you and other bad behaviors that are common when working with miniature equines. Be sure you have successfully completed the lessons in Part 1 before moving on to the lessons in Part 2 or training may not yield the desired positive results. Also, if possible, it is best to work minis in groups if they are used to being with other equines, as they perform better when they are with their “friends” and it doesn’t hurt to train their friends in the same way.
Let’s begin with something you and your mini will experience on a regular basis: a visit from the farrier. First, lead your mini to the work station (as described in Part 1). When you get to the work station, tie up your mini and sit on the floor with him (as you did in the pen). Now you will be having a “picnic” (as you did in Part 1), but this time you will be in the work station and you will have a guest…the farrier. Before the farrier attempts to pick up the first foot, ask him to sit down beside your mini in front of the shoulder on the left side and offer a handful of oats as a way of introducing himself. Next, while you sit at your mini’s head and offer the oats reward for good behavior, have the farrier begin with the near side (left) front foot and work his way around from front to back, and then from back to front on the other side (right). While the farrier is working, talk calmly and encouragingly to your mini, and as long as he is doing what is asked of him, offer rewards generously. He should yield his feet easily, but if he does not don’t offer the reward until he complies.
Don’t shove your mini when you want him to move over. Rather, give him some oats and use your index finger to tap or poke him on the side of his ribcage. If he doesn’t move over, use your whole hand to give him a slight push, always using a “push and release” movement, which is non-confrontational. You don’t want to keep steadily pushing up against him, because as soon as you give him anything to push against, he will and you could find yourself in a pushing match or, worse, a confrontation with him. As soon as he complies and moves, give him the oats reward and slide your body in next to him to help hold him in position for the farrier as he works with each foot. Don’t be afraid and always stay on the same side as the farrier. If the mini decides to make an abrupt move, he will try to slide around you because equines really don’t like stepping on, or running over, soft, squishy things like our bodies, so if your mini can get out of your way, he will. Even if he was to jump up in the air, he would more than likely jump over or around you, taking the path of least resistance. Trust your mini, stay calm and avoid becoming tense or exhibiting fear and things should go smoothly.
Once your mini is leading well, has accepted the farrier and is ready to investigate obstacles, you can begin to take him for walks and see how many different things you can investigate together. At each obstacle, be polite and tug on the lead rope only until it is taut, then wait for your mini to respond. If he balks and you need to keep hold of his lead rope because of potential danger, just let out the slack on the lead rope and allow him to take a little more time going through the obstacle. If you are negotiating something like ditches or water and your mini balks, lengthen the lead rope to get to the far side of the obstacle and hold tension on the rope until he complies and comes forward over or through the obstacle. If leading two minis and one of them balks, lengthen the balky one’s lead rope and let it lay out on the ground while you take the more compliant mini through the obstacle. Then let go of the first mini’s lead rope and pick up the lead rope of the balky one, holding the tension until he negotiates the obstacle and joins you and the first mini on the other side of the ditch or water.
This approach becomes particularly important when negotiating something like a dock or a bridge where you are not only dealing with an obstacle, but an obstacle that makes you substantially taller than you already appear to your mini. This is another instance when you can “get down” on your mini’s eye level the way you did in the pen and at the work station. Remember to do things in small steps. When you walk onto the surface of the dock or bridge or any other large, flat surface, leave enough room for your mini to come up. When you get to the end of the lead rope, take up the slack and then sit down and offer the reward. Then, once your mini has negotiated the obstacle, give him the oats reward and just have another picnic. If a companion equine is accompanying you, be sure to tie the companion animal in front of the obstacle so your mini can always see him. If you tie him behind, your mini will worry and want to go back instead of forward.
When you are ready to step down off the dock or bridge, it would be unsafe to be lower than your mini, so at this point you should stand up, go to the end of the obstacle and ask him to come forward off the raised obstacle, making sure he has plenty of room to come off the obstacle without you having to move. Stand quietly and keep the lead rope taut as you verbally encourage him and invite him to come down off the bridge. As soon as he jumps down, ask for a halt and reward him for jumping down and stopping right in front of you. (He will learn to negotiate the obstacle more slowly with practice.) Once he has finished negotiating the obstacle and halted and is chewing on his reward, you can then proceed to the next obstacle. Having definite, purposeful and timely pauses will help alleviate anxiety and resistance in your mini.
Be vigilant about when it is safe to get down to his level and when it is better to stay standing. Always opt for the low-level eye contact whenever possible and when you determine that it is safe to do so. Remember, the longer he must go without making eye contact with you, the greater the chance of resistance, but eye contact on his level will give him confidence in your judgment and will help to facilitate a real bond between you. If negotiating an obstacle such as a tractor tire or six tires, just extend the lead rope over the tire or tires, sit on that side, keep the rope taut and proceed as you did with the bridge obstacle.
Allow your mini to come forward and look at the tire, put his nose in the middle of it and, if he wants to, put his front foot up in the air to “feel” the space. If he wants to stand on the tire, that’s all right, too, but remember to keep the rope taut and don’t pull—release pressure as soon as he begins to move. Pulling is a common mistake that people often make, which can easily throw an equine off balance, creating a dangerous situation.
I call this technique “OATS.” (Observe, Approach, Touch and Sigh). It allows your mini time to observe each situation, then approach and touch the obstacle, finally giving a sigh as a signal that he is relaxed and not afraid. Always reward him for his efforts so he can begin to gain confidence and trust in you. By following the OATS technique you are turning your mini’s fear into curiosity, which will serve to keep him calm in future situations.
Part 3 of this article will cover negotiating obstacles with more finesse, lunging and groundwork in harness.
To learn more about Meredith Hodges and her comprehensive all-breed equine training program, visit LuckyThreeRanch.com or call 1-800-816-7566. Check out her children’s website at JasperTheMule.com. Also, find Meredith on Facebook, YouTube and Twitter.
Miniature horses, donkeys and mules all have one thing in common; everyone else is taller than they are! That makes eye contact with the trainer very difficult if not impossible for them. As the saying goes, the eyes are the window to the soul so it is understandable that they would become anxious if they are unable to look into a person’s eyes to decide whether they are friend or foe. I have five miniature equines: a mini horse named Mirage, a mini mule named Franklin, a mini molly mule named Francis, and two mini donkeys named Augie and Spuds. To help them all succeed and thrive, I’ve structured my training program for them based on the same one I use for all of my other equines, with one important modification. With safety always as my first priority, I work with my minis from a lower position whenever it’s safe to do so. That way, I can make eye contact with them, and I make certain they are always lavishly rewarded with an oats reward for their compliance. The results have been amazing! I’ve received total cooperation from them almost all of the time.
None of my minis were born at my ranch, so I knew that they would each first need to explore their surroundings a little at a time, and would also need ample time to get used to my staff and me. Mirage, the miniature horse, was my first mini. It wasn’t long after I acquired him that I acquired Franklin, the mini mule, who quickly became Mirage’s buddy. Since both Mirage and Franklin had previous training and because minis seem to accept training more willingly when done with a partner, we did all of Mirage’s and Franklin’s groundwork lessons together and, true to form, they learned very quickly because they were allowed to be together.
Several years later I rescued Francis, a miniature molly mule that was about as schizophrenic as they get. We penned Francis next to Mirage and Franklin for several months before I even attempted to catch her and begin her lessons alongside Mirage and Franklin. Giving her ample time to explore her own pen and to realize this was to be her sanctuary did wonders for her attitude and, after two years of very low-key training, she was able to perform calmly when we were filming the groundwork segment for the DVD, Equus Revisited.
Wherever I went during their lessons, I led all three minis together, and Francis learned to relax and comply with my wishes. I allowed her plenty of time to settle into her new surroundings before I ever asked her to come with Mirage and Franklin to the work station for grooming. The first time I was able to make real eye contact with her was during a walk we took in the hayfield in the middle of the summer. I took all three minis out to the middle of the hayfield, sat down while holding all three lead ropes and we experienced our first “picnic” together. Francis thought I was pretty scary when I first sat down, but she relaxed when she saw that it didn’t phase Mirage or Franklin. Just like human children, all equines learn better when not isolated (taken away from their equine friends) and made to feel that they’re being punished. Keeping this in mind, I lunged all three minis together in the round pen and after lunging, I tied two of them outside of the round pen while I did individual lunging and ground-driving lessons with each one individually. Because of this slow, respectful training and keeping her with her friends while she learned, Francis has made remarkable progress over the years.
I think it is critically important that all equines have a space they can call their own—their personal oasis of comfort and privacy—so when I got my mini donkeys, Augie and Spuds, I decided that the first thing they would learn about was their living quarters or, as I like to call it, their “bedroom.”
When you go to your mini’s pen, politely stand by the gate and ask “permission” to enter by simply calling his or her name and then waiting for a response. Your mini will most likely come over to you and “invite” you in by showing curiosity and giving you a welcoming look. As you can guess, it is probably your fanny pack full of oats that is really attractive to them, but they will soon learn that you come with the oats so they will no doubt be happy to see you. This is the very first step in reward training.
Begin your relationship with your mini by having a “picnic” with him. Sit yourself down on the ground in the middle of his pen and start playing with a handful of oats while you wait for him to come to you. While you have your picnic in the pen, use just your hands for contact and make sure you have plenty of crimped oats (I use a fanny pack full of oats). Because picnics are supposed to be fun and not intimidating, allow your mini to come and go as he pleases within the confines of his pen. When he becomes confident about coming to you while you’re sitting down, reward him for coming over and interacting with you. Be prepared for the possibility of doing dozens of lessons like this—however long it takes for your mini to build trust in you and feel comfortable. As your relationship progresses, you may try picking up his feet and stroking his legs (which is a good way to prepare your mini for the farrier visits that will come later). There are no expectations and there is no pressure to do anything more…it’s just your mini and you and time for bonding.
When your mini is comfortable with you coming into his pen and interacting with him, the next step is to ask him to go into a bigger turnout area, where you should repeat the same simple lessons. Now that your mini can be loose in a larger space, ask him to come to join you for another picnic. After a few times, bring a hairbrush with you (It’s the most efficient brush to use on donkey hair).
When you sit down and he comes over for the picnic, show him the brush and let him inspect it, and then reward him for inspecting the brush. When you introduce the brush to his body, do so by first petting him, and then follow where your hand goes with the brush. This has a calming effect and also helps you to identify the more sensitive areas on his body. Always start with his neck, where there’s substantial fatty tissue and no real sensitive areas until you reach the shoulder. During this “playtime,” you can get your mini used to strange things by allowing him to wear your hat. This is an extension of the imprinting (touch) your mini should have received as a foal, only with a foreign object instead of your hands. Remember, imprinting is not just for foals at birth. It is the way you will continue to learn about how to touch your mini throughout his life and how you learn which areas are more sensitive than others. This sets the stage for how you gauge your approach when touching your mini both with your hands and with foreign objects such as grooming equipment and tack at all levels of training.
A halter doesn’t even come into play until after grooming in the pen is easily achieved and your mini will follow you to and from the pen without the halter. When it is time to introduce the halter, bring it with you into the pen for your picnic. Do the brushing and then show your mini the halter while you sit on the ground. When he sniffs the halter, he should be rewarded. Once he is unafraid of the halter, hold it on both sides of the noseband, feed your mini some oats, and then gently push the noseband of the halter over his nose and then take it off, rewarding him again. At this point you’ve got all kinds of oats in your lap and your mini’s got his head down, eating the oats, so when you put the noseband on again, just reach over his neck, grab the strap of his halter on the other side, bring it behind his ears and fasten it. If done correctly, this should not bother him. Then reward him with more oats, pet him as he complies and say, “Oh, how good is that?!” You can then take the halter off again and end the first lesson there.
Once your mini is used to having his halter put on, let him graze while supervised in a larger pasture area with his halter on while he drags the lead rope behind him. When you want him to walk away from you, simply stand up and let him go off on his own. After a few minutes, approach him again, grab the end of his lead rope and sit down again. You can give a little tug, say his name and ask him to “Come.” He should come easily when you gently tug on his lead rope. This action makes him look at you and think, “Oh, my human is sitting down again, so I’m going to come over and get more oats!” As he comes toward you, take up the slack on his approach. Once he comes to you easily, you can stand up and ask him to come while you’re standing up and reward him for it. And that’s how to teach a mini to follow you.
During your picnics, put on and take off the halter over several lessons and until he is completely calm before you try to halter your mini at the gate in preparation for leaving the pen. He must be willing to come while you are standing, and he should allow you to put on the halter at the gate using the same rewarding techniques as you use while sitting down. When he accepts the halter at the gate, the next task is to learn to properly lead through a gate and make your way to the work station for the first time. (See “Gate Training” in Part 1 of my DVD series, Equus Revisited.)
When grooming at the work station, start working your way around your animal from front to back, but ignore grooming his head for a while until he’s really comfortable with you. When you finally get to the head, you will have to change to a grooming tool called a dandy brush. First let him see and sniff the dandy brush, and then begin with the forehead. Brush upward toward his ears with the direction of the hair on his forehead and then, if he stands quietly, give him a reward. Don’t try to do his cheeks right away—give him time in the same grooming session to get used to the feel of the brush before you try to brush his cheeks, and make sure he sees the brush coming at him. Anything he sees too abruptly with his peripheral vision can potentially startle and spook him.
Breaking things down into little do-able steps seems like a long process in the beginning, but as your mini begins to understand the reasoning behind your approach, his reactions to tasks will become calmer, more automatic and more natural for him. When you allow your mini to learn to follow your lead without the halter in the beginning of each task, learning to follow you on the lead rope will be a lot easier for him, and when you finally move on to more specific tasks in training, he will oblige you much more willingly. In Part 2 of “Getting Down With Minis,” I will cover how to approach the tasks necessary for formal training.
To learn more about Meredith Hodges and her comprehensive all-breed equine training program, visit LuckyThreeRanch.com or call 1-800-816-7566. Check out her children’s website at JasperTheMule.com. Also, find Meredith on Facebook, YouTube and Twitter.
Concept Developed by Richard Shrake and Specific Design by Meredith Hodges
(Trademarked & Published in TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE 2003)
In my TRAINING MULES & DONKEYS DVD #2, in the TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE manual (2003) and in the SPECIAL FEATURES of my EQUUS REVISITED DVD (2009), I talk about using a postural aid called the “Elbow Pull.” In the EQUUS REVISITED DVD, we teach you how to measure it for your individual equine and how to make it. If you have our video series, in DVD #2, in the TRAINING WITHOUT RESISTANCE manual (2003) and in the EQUUS REVISITED DVD (2009), we talk about using the “Elbow Pull.” We teach you how to measure it for your individual equine and how to make it. The “Elbow Pull” puts your animal into your equine’s ideal posture. He will have full range of motion in every direction when it is adjusted correctly. He will just not be able to raise his head so high that he hollows his neck and back. He will be able to balance and adjust his body position, encourage the hind quarters to come underneath his body when he is walked, or driven forward. Allowing the equine take short steps, front and back, would let the back sag (swayback-Lordosis) and does not engage the abdominal muscles. The “Elbow Pull” encourages the equine to stretch his spine, round his back and neck upwards (not “hump” it!) and elevates the shoulders when he steps underneath his body. The elevation (or suspension) in the shoulders allows him to increase the “reach” in his front legs. I use the “Elbow Pull” for Leading Training, Ground Driving and when he is ready, Lunging in the Round Pen. The Leading Training on flat ground through our HOURGLASS PATTERN positively affects his overall postural balance, and Leading through Obstacles adds coordination. You know that he is ready to go on to each stage of Leading Training on flat ground and then through obstacles) when you can throw the lead rope over his neck and do the exercises with verbal commands, hand signals and body language alone. This is building a new habitual way of traveling is all in preparation for Lunging correctly…keeping his body erect and in a symmetrical balance while he bends to the arc of the circle without leaning like a motorcycle. It will prevent muscle compromises throughout his body that could cause soreness. I continue to use the “Elbow Pull” with each new stage of training to help him maintain his good posture throughout the different tasks. It is a supportive device and when he has problems with his posture, it will become tight. He can “lean” against it for a few strides without going totally out of good posture which gives him relief from trying to hold his good posture, which is often difficult in the beginning. When he is again able to hold his good posture, the aid becomes loose all over. Even people have problems maintaining good posture without the reminder of a book on their head until it becomes more habitual.
None of us were born in good posture. It is something that must be taught. If we are allowed to “slouch” our posture, it WILL create soreness and physical problems over time, especially when we get much older. After Lunging in good posture for several months, the equine’s habitual way of going will be changed. He will begin to travel in good posture automatically. Changing habits takes a long time of repetitive behavior to evolve into a new habitual way of acting. As you teach you body through these stages to stay in sync with your equine’s steps, YOUR body becomes more in tune with his way of going and prepares you to be a better rider. This is all a matter or re-programming brain-muscle impulses. The equine will be Ground Driven in the “Elbow Pull” as he adjusts to learning rein cues, and when the weight of the rider is finally added, it is advisable to ride in the “Elbow Pull” until it remains loose all the time. When it does, you can be sure he is strong in his core balance and truly ready to support the rider in any kind of athletic pursuit. The equine learns to carry the rider on top of an upward arc in their spine with the abdominal muscles engaged. This is the same as teaching people to use their whole body correctly and lift with their legs and not their backs. These kinds of exercises make sure that the animal travels symmetrically, allowing the joints to work as they were designed to do (according to the laws of physics) with no compromises, and promotes optimum function of their internal organs.
With an equine that is over 2 years old and that has not had the benefit of developing core strength in good posture, it is advisable to first use the “Elbow Pull” during detailed and extensive Leading Lessons, both on the flat ground and later over obstacles. An equine under two years of age will not need the “Elbow Pull” support while working on his way of going since repetitive habits have not yet been fully established. Lunge the equine in the Round Pen for several months until the animal exhibits an erect posture and self-body carriage habitually. When you finally begin riding, you should use the “Elbow Pull” while you are riding our Hourglass Pattern under saddle as he adjusts to the added weight and new balance. When the “Elbow Pull” is adjusted correctly and the equine is in good posture, it will not put any pressure on the animal at all. When he is out of good posture, it puts pressure on the poll, the bit rings, behind the forearms and over the back. He will go back to his good posture as soon as he is able in order to release the pressure points.
Place the “Elbow Pull” over the poll, through the snaffle bit rings, between the animal’s front legs and over the back, then snap the two ends to a surcingle D-ring or D-rings on the saddle you are using. It should be adjusted so he can only raise his head approximately 3-4 inches above the level of the withers (just before he hollows his neck and back. The “Elbow Pull” needs to be adjusted loosely enough so that he can relieve the pressure at the poll, bit rings, elbows and back without having to drop his head below the withers. When lunging, if the “Elbow Pull” is correctly adjusted and he still wants to carry his nose to the ground, encouraging him with the whip to speed him up a bit. This will encourage him to engage his hindquarters and raise his head into the correct position. The only way he can really go forward with his nose to the ground is if the hind quarters are not engaged. As soon as the hindquarters are engaged, he will have to raise his head to the correct position to maintain his balance. When being lead in the “Elbow Pull,” lowering the head is not a problem because you will have control of the lead rope attached a ring underneath his noseband (not attached to the bit!). Doing stretching-down exercises during leading training helps to stretch the spine and alleviate any soreness that could be developing with the new postural position. Breaking old habitual muscle positions can cause soreness to begin with, but as the better posture becomes more evolved, it also becomes much more comfortable (as it does in humans).
In the Round Pen, the “Elbow Pull” helps the animal learn to travel in good equine posture without the added weight of a rider first. In doing so, it increases his core strength and the ability for him to carry a more balanced posture of his own volition. The added weight of the rider under saddle will challenge the animal again to maintain this good posture. This will take further strengthening of the muscles. The “Elbow Pull” will keep the animal in the correct posture while carrying the rider, so he doesn’t ever build muscle out of balance and out of good equine posture. When you do this, you are changing old habitual movement into good equine posture and a balanced way of moving. This eventually (after two years) will become his habitual way of moving and playing, even during turnout.
Your equine should stay in the “Elbow Pull” when working for two years to make sure that the muscles are indeed conditioned around correct equine posture through correct repetition. This means that when your year of Lunging, then Ground Driving is over, and he begins to work with a rider or while being driven, you would still use the “Elbow Pull” to help him stay in good posture for another year with the added weight of the rider on his back. If driving your equine, you should also use it during the first two years in your driving arena to promote good equine driving posture and engagement of the hind quarters while pulling. This assures that the muscles are becoming correctly and symmetrically strong (supporting the skeleton), over a balanced and physically aligned frame.
The “Elbow Pull” postural aid does not pull their heads down. Rather, it gives them full range of motion (up, down, and sideways), but keeps them from raising their heads so high that they hollow their back and neck during initial training. It is a fully self-correcting restraint that gives them something to lean on when they are not yet strong enough in the core (elements that support the skeletal frame) to maintain their ideal balance. It encourages them to step well underneath their body, round their back upward from head to tail and puts the spine in an position to allow space between the vertebrae (and avoid “Kissing Spine”) and to prevent the rider from injuring their spine (according to the laws of physics). The “Elbow Pull” provides support much like a balance bar does for a beginning ballet dancer, and the principles of good posture are the same as with humans. Repetition and consistency during training can change habitual bad posture to habitual good posture over a long period of time, usually about two years. Good posture and correct movement can enhance longevity by as much as 5-10 years, enable internal organs to operate efficiently and prevent arthritis and other compromises that can create soreness in the body.
Making the “Elbow Pull
Although the “Elbow Pull” is a very simple and straight forward device to help keep you equine in good posture, it is also a device that needs to be custom made to fit each individual equine. Equines that are approximately the same size in the front quarters will probably be able to use the same one. First, you need to obtain a package of 3/8″ twisted nylon rope. It is generally sold on the internet in 50′ spools, but is fairly inexpensive. Do not substitute any other kind of rope or leather reins, etc. as this will have a different weight and slippage around the bridle and will not have the same effect. Make sure that when you use the “Elbow Pull” that you place it OVER the crown piece on your bridle to prevent chafing and that you adjust it by first getting them to flex at the poll (by cupping your hand at the muzzle and rocking it forward and back or just offer some oats to get him to flex) and then push UP on his muzzle until he begins to push the nose out and hollow his back. This is not a device to “tie” their heads down. It should be adjusted just tight enough to prevent them from hollowing their neck and back, but still giving them full range of motion in every other direction (Up, down and to the sides).
You will also need two snaps that are narrow, yet fairly strong that can fit easily through the rings on your surcingle, or Western saddle. English saddle D-rings are generally too small and in this situation, we do not attach to them, but rather attach the “Elbow Pull” to itself after looping it through tied up stirrups. If you make the rope a bit longer for adjustment sake, you can loop it over the withers and attach it to the small D-rings on the opposite sides. The reason for twisted rope is so you can actually go through the D-rings and snap it into the twisted rope itself for a more exact setting. You would just untwist the rope at the setting point and snap into the middle of the rope so it won’t slide. With horses, you would just twist the rope over the back as shown so the snaps are a moot point until the horse learns to give to the “Elbow Pull” and can be hard tied.
Have the equine stand at the hitch rail with the snaffle bridle on. To get a measurement for how long a piece of rope you will need for his “Elbow Pull,” take a length of rope from the coil. From the near side (left side of your equine), feed the end of the rope from the inside to the outside of the snaffle bit ring, drape it over the poll of your equine and feed it from the outside of the snaffle bit ring to the inside on the off side (right) of your equine. Pull enough slack to go down through the front legs, behind the forearm, up and over the back such that it hangs 12 inches (or a bit more, but not less) over the spine. Then, go back to the near side on where you started and pull enough rope from the spool do the same thing on that side. When you have enough rope to loop over the spine on that side, you can cut the rope at 12 inches (or a bit more, but not less).
Once you have the proper length of rope for your equine, you will need to unravel 3″-4″ of one end of the rope and loop it through the ring on your first snap. Then you will braid the rope back into itself. First, pick the loose strand that is on top as you lay the rope across your hand, bend it around the end of the snap and feed it under a twist of the rope such that it creates a loop around the end of you snap and pull it snug. Then take the next loose strand (which would be the middle of the three strands) and feed it under the next twist down from the one you just did. Then do the same with the third loose strand under the third twist in the rope. Take all three strands in your hand, hold the rope so it doesn’t twist and pull all three strands snug. They should all line up.
Next, turn the rope over so you can see where the angled lines of the twisted rope begins again and feed the first strand under the first twist, the second under the second twist and the third under the third twist. Pull all three strands snug at the same time, turn the rope over, locate the first twist in the line and repeat until you have all 3″-4″ braided into the twisted rope. You will have some loose ends sticking out and nylon rope can slip, so you now need to take a lighter and burn all these ends until they are melted together and will not slip. Be sure that you burn them so they are smooth and without bumps or it will be difficult to feed the ends through the D-rings. Do the same with your second snap on the other end of the rope. Now, you have your own custom made “Elbow Pull!” If this is confusing, you can purchase our EQUUS REVISITED DVD which has a SPECIAL FEATURE that will show you how to do this at www.luckythreeranchstore.com.
THE HOURGLASS PATTERN (Core Strength Leading Training)
Tack up your animal in a surcingle (or lightweight saddle), a snaffle bridle with a drop noseband (with a ring underneath to attach to the lead rope) and our “Elbow Pull” self-correcting postural restraint. Adjust it so it is taut enough to keep his head from going so high that he inverts his neck and back, and not so tight that it pulls his head too low. Begin the “Hourglass Pattern” without doing circles at the cones. Lead your animal with the lead rope in your left hand from the left side with your equine’s head at your shoulder when tracking left, and lead your animal with the lead rope in your right hand with your equine’s head at your shoulder when tracking right. Point your left hand (or right hand) in the direction of travel and look where you are going. Say the animal’s name and give the command to “Walk on.” Then look down to see what leg he is leading with and match your steps with his. When you stop, say “And…Whoa” and stop with your feet together. Square him up with both hind legs together and then put both front legs together with equal weight over all four feet and reward from a fanny pack of oats around your waist. Stand quietly until he has finished chewing, change sides (and leading position) after every halt so you are always leading from the “inside” of the arc on which you are traveling, and give the command to “Walk on.” You can add circles at the cones and ground rails once he is consistently walking at your shoulder and prompt with the commands.
You can set up your Hourglass Pattern as pictured above so you can do Leading Training, Obstacle Training, Lunging on the Lunge Line, Ground Driving Training and Riding Training without having to move things around. I work multiple animals, up to four at a time by working one in the arena (with and without the lead rope) with the others tied at the hitch rail just outside the arena by the gate. This enables me to get multiple equines done in a short amount of time and reduces the incidence of animals pacing the fence while others are being worked. Using your facility efficiently can greatly reduce time spent on training. And remember, when engaging in the Hourglass pattern exercises, do not DRILL. You will only need to work your equine first one direction through the pattern with the designated halts, cross the diagonal and work the other direction. Once around the pattern each way is enough to do the job. Work your equine a minimum of once a week and a maximum of once every other day. Be sure to leave a day of rest in between for the best results. Your equine will look forward to his time with you!
There are so many equine-related products on the market today that it is difficult to decide which ones you really need and which ones you don’t. For instance, the subject of splint boots and leg wraps can be very confusing. How do you know when to use them? What types of leg wraps or splint boots are best? Do they really help? In what ways do they help? What type of material should they be made from? And the list of questions goes on.
Splint boots and leg wraps vary as much as their uses. The easiest and most obvious use of a leg wrap comes when traveling with your equine. If you are taking your animal any real distance, it is always advisable to use full cover, padded shipping boots on all four legs. The shipping wraps help prevent your animal from injuring himself due to his own movements, on objects inside the trailer or because of other animals that are traveling with him.
If you have an animal that is fidgety and has difficulty standing still, applying leg wraps is the perfect opportunity to teach him to stand quietly while you handle his legs. You can begin training for leg wraps by putting them on your equine while he is outside the trailer in your grooming station, and then removing them in the trailer before unloading. Make sure he is standing quietly while you put the leg wraps on him. Also, get in the habit of always removing the leg wraps while he is still in the trailer. This makes him learn to “wait” for you before he departs the trailer. If he expects to have his wraps removed while he is still in the trailer, he is less likely to become excited and possibly bump or step on you while waiting to exit the trailer.
The best shipping boots are the ones that are full-leg, quilted on the inside and attached with Velcro straps. Some materials can collect bedding or debris and cause discomfort or pressure sores (the fleece-lined wraps are notorious for this). The best shipping boots are made from a quilted nylon material and most cover the entire leg and hoof.
You can also use quilted cotton pads and leg wraps, but they are primarily for use while your animal is stalled, in order to prevent cuts and abrasions at shows and events. Polo wraps (a soft pliable cotton wrap with no quilted pads) are also used for support during training. These types of wraps generally cover only the cannon bones and not the fetlocks and pasterns. If you do use Polo wraps or quilted cotton pads and wraps, learn to wrap them correctly to avoid pressure points that could cause problems. Consult with a professional to learn the proper wrapping technique.
There is a wide variety of splint boots available on the market and each of them is designed for a particular use. When doing light work in the arena or for trail riding, you might want to use a “front and back” set that are designed for minimal support, while providing the legs with greater protection from injury. In beginning training, you might use splint boots only on the front legs, since your animal will not likely be using his hindquarters efficiently enough to cause a problem. But once you have begun activities such as Reining or lateral work, the rear boots become important.
When making a decision about which type of protection to use, it is important to first assess your animal’s physical development and the types of activity he will be doing. Boots that are designed primarily for protection do not always lend much support to the muscles and tendons.
They do, however, protect the animal from cuts, bumps and bruises and are advisable for use during hard work, gymkhana events, trail rides in mountainous areas and other more stressful workouts. If you do use splint boots while trail riding and they get wet, do not leave them on the animal for very long or they will lose their ability to support and can cause sores from rubbing. In order to prevent this from happening, boots should be removed, cleaned and dried out immediately after use.
Since, in beginning training, the goal is to condition your animal’s muscles and tendons, “light support” splint boots are a good thing to have on-hand. At this early stage, if a boot gives too much support, the animal does not necessarily develop correctly and the areas under the boots can become weak. Muscles and tendons above and below the boot will gain too much strength and cause possible knotting of the muscles, compromising the function of that entire leg due to uneven conditioning.
After basic training, when your equine is participating in more stressful activities such as jumping, endurance and racing (or in the case of an injury), it may become necessary to use a more supportive boot to lightly support already-conditioned muscles and tendons. Support boots are designed to provide equal support over the entire area they cover. Be careful that they are neither too tight nor too loose. You don’t want the boots so tight that they cut off the blood supply to the area covered or are not flexible enough to allow the joints to move freely. However, you don’t want them so loose that they ride down on the legs.
Although the hooves look tough, they, too, can be adversely affected, particularly in gymkhana events and jumping. This is why “bell boots” may be needed for hoof and coronet band protection. The coronet is a very sensitive area and can cause severe lameness if damaged even by a small, seemingly insignificant, cut or bump. If a hoof is unusually dry, severe cracks can occur, and so it is also advisable to routinely use a hoof dressing in addition to the bell boots, in order to make sure a trauma to the hoof will not cause cracking.
When trying to decide which splint boots, leg wraps or other devices to use assess your plan for the day. Leg wraps and splint boots can change from time to time, depending on the conditions of the day. Most shows do not allow splint boots or leg wraps in certain classes. If an animal is in good physical condition, he should not need splint boots or leg wraps for the short time of the performance unless it is extended, as in gymkhana events. In this case, your animal should be conditioned well enough to forgo the actual support-type boots and would only need boots that would primarily offer protection from injury.
You may be asking yourself, “How can I tell a minimal support boot from a fully functional medical support boot?” This can be very confusing, considering all the different kinds of leg wraps and splint boots out there. Some even look identical, as in the case of the high quality Pro Choice splint boot versus an off-brand. Although the off-brand may look identical, it is often made from inferior-quality materials that do not afford the degree of flexibility needed for successful therapy. Although these off-brands are designed for support and do cover the joints, should be considered as more of a protective boot. Splint boots are strictly for protection of the cannon bones, because they do not cover the joints and offer very little support.
In the case of leg wraps, there are those that stretch and are used for support (as in the Polo wraps used for Dressage schooling), and those that do not stretch and are used over padded quilt squares for traveling and while in the stable. When researching which product will best suit your needs and the needs of your animal, equine professionals, your local tack shop or feed store, shows and expos, and the internet can all be valuable sources of information.
To learn more about Meredith Hodges and her comprehensive all-breed equine training program, visit LuckyThreeRanch.com or call 1-800-816-7566. Check out her children’s website at JasperTheMule.com. Also, find Meredith on Facebook, YouTube and Twitter.
Your equine depends upon you for his safety and well-being. The best feed in the world won’t keep him in good health if you neglect other important areas such as vaccinations and worming. It’s up to you to create a program to prevent disease and control parasites. Here are some suggestions for a general health program:
1) Cleanliness is very important. Make sure feed boxes are clean and manure is removed from stalls and paddocks. Do not feed hay or grain on the floor or anywhere it may become contaminated with manure. Similarly, small, heavily used pastures tend to build up a heavy parasite load. Pastures should be rotated and harrowed as frequently as possible to break the life cycle of the parasites.
2) Internal parasites are the most common danger to the health and well-being of your mule, and you must be prepared to wage a constant battle to control these worms. Follow your vet’s advice to set up a parasite-prevention and control program through regular worming. The drugs that are available today are very effective in removing parasites and breaking the cycle of re-infection. At Lucky Three Ranch, we worm every eight weeks in January, March, May, July and September with Ivermectin and then break the cycle and worm with Strongid in November. Don’t forget to watch out for bot eggs and remove them immediately.
3) Avoid letting your equine drink from public watering facilities. Use your own clean water buckets. Keep an eye out for anything that might injure your equine, and remove or repair it.
Proper treatment of diseases and injuries depends on two very important factors: correct diagnosis and knowledge of the proper treatment. Your job is to become familiar with equine diseases and their symptoms. In case of sickness or injury, know what to do for your animal before help arrives. Understand what simple treatments and remedies are safe to follow. Above all, know when to call a veterinarian.
4) There are many resources available to help you learn how to be better prepared including books, clinics and, especially, advice from an expert such as your own veterinarian or farrier.
Assemble your own equine first aid kit and, with the help of your veterinarian, learn the proper use of each item in the kit. Be prepared to handle the situation before the vet arrives.
When signs of infectious disease appear, isolate infected animals promptly and call your veterinarian right away.
5) Seek your vet’s recommendations for shots and immunizations, and faithfully follow an annual vaccination program. Make sure you keep good records of vaccinations and worming, and be sure to keep track of when they’re next due.
6) One of the best ways to monitor your equine’s health is by establishing a daily grooming routine. Not only will he be rewarded with a shiny coat, but you can watch for cuts and bruises and check the condition of the feet.
Basic grooming tools include a rubber currycomb to rough up the hair and bring dirt to the surface, a dandy brush to lift out the dirt, a body brush to smooth and shine, a hoof pick to clean the feet and a mane and tail comb and brush. A sweat scraper is handy to remove excess water during and after a bath, or sweat after a workout. A grooming cloth can be used to polish the coat and bring out the shine. In the springtime, a plastic multi-bristled hairbrush and shedding blade are also nice tools to have on-hand to remove dead hair, and a sponge can be used to clean muddy legs.
Begin your routine by using a hoof pick to clean the feet. Start with the near front foot, move to the near hind, then the off fore and off hind. If your young mule is skittish, work in whatever order he is comfortable. As he becomes accustomed to having his feet cleaned, you can do them in a consistent order. Clean from heel to toe and watch for infections like thrush and injuries from rocks or nails. This is also a good time to check his shoes. Mules should be shod (if working regularly on very hard surfaces), or trimmed, approximately every six to eight weeks according to use.
Next, begin to groom the body, starting on the left side at the head. Hold the currycomb in one hand, keeping the other hand on your animal to steady him. Gently curry in small circular strokes, working your way down and back, ending with the hind leg. Next brush vigorously, first with the hairbrush and then with the body brush. During springtime shedding, use your plastic bristle brush on the body to reach the dead hair in the undercoat before you use the shedding blade. Make sure that you apply only as much pressure as feels good to your equine (lighter pressure over bony areas). This should be an enjoyable experience for him.
After grooming the left side, move to the right side. Brush the head with a Dandy brush and use a multi-bristled human hairbrush on the mane and tail. By adding a little Johnson’s Baby oil to the mane and tail during grooming, you can train a mane to fall to one side and keep other equines from chewing on manes and tails. Finish with a soft body brush. Finally, use the grooming cloth to wipe around the ears, face, eyes, nose, lips, sheath (if it’s a male) and the dock of the tail.
While paying this much attention to your mule’s body, you will be sure to see anything abnormal such as an abscess, a cut, mites or insects, or a sore. Early discovery and treatment keep problems small.
Besides routine grooming, your equine’s longer hairs can be trimmed as often as needed. Clip the long hairs from the head, the outsides of the ears, on the jaw and around the fetlocks for a neat and clean appearance.
Mules and donkeys like to be dusty, but they also like to be clean. Bathing every so often will make your Longears look and feel better. All equines enjoy having all that itchy sweat rinsed off after a good workout. I don’t recommend bathing too often with soap because an equine’s skin is sensitive. Soap can irritate it as well as strip away the essential oils. Most of the time, a good rinse, while scraping the excess water off with a shedding blade, will maintain a clean, healthy coat. Of course it’s essential to have a spotless animal if you’re off to a show or parade.
Once your mule has been bathed and is spotlessly clean before the show, all you need to do to prepare him for your class is a quick once-over with a vacuum. Vacuum training is like anything else—take your time, be polite in your approach and make sure your mule understands that this strange, noisy monster is not going to hurt him. Soon he will learn to enjoy being groomed by the vacuum. The vacuum will also promote better circulation to the muscle tissue.
BODY CLIPPING
If you plan to show your mule, you might consider body clipping. If you clip in mid-April or May, you will expedite shedding and the hair that grows in will be more manageable than the heavy winter hair. Equines that are not going to be shown should be left with their natural hair coat, as it insulates them from both cold and heat, and protects them from invasive insects. Mules and donkeys shed more slowly than horses and are not usually fully shed out until late summer.
There’s a bonus to clipping a show mule or donkey—their hair won’t grow back as quickly as that of a horse. Just remember that clipped animals should be stabled and blanketed during cold weather. If you do blanket your mule, you must be ready to add or remove blankets and hoods as the weather changes each day. To keep the coat from growing back too quickly, it helps to have them under 16 hours of light (summertime light duration).
To body clip your mule, begin with a quick bath. Your clippers will last longer if your mule is clean. When he’s dry, use your rubber currycomb to bring any dirt and dead hair to the surface. Follow with a good brushing. If it’s too cold for a bath, use a vacuum to get him clean.
Begin clipping the legs and head, because these are usually the hardest areas to do. If he’s a little difficult, don’t hesitate to use the restraints you learned about in DVD #2. Use a twisted lead rope hobble to restrain the front legs, a scotch hobble for the rear legs, or a face tie for the head, but be sure to use them as described and don’t be punitive in your approach. Start with small clippers on the coronet band and fetlock, working your way up each leg.
Do the body last with large animal clippers. Clip against the lay of the hair. Start at the rear and work your way forward, clipping first one side and then the other. Pay special attention to the flanks, the mane and the fuzzy areas under the belly and around the forearms and buttocks.
If your mule has a nice mane, leave it and clip a bridle path. The length of the mane and the bridle path will depend on trends in the event you are participating in. For example, in English riding, manes are kept shorter to make braiding easier, but if your event is reining, keep the mane as long as possible. I like to grow the manes as long as possible (they help to keep flies and insects at bay), give crew cuts through the bridle path to the males and leave a foretop and bridle path on the females.
If you’re packing, you might want to shave or trim the mane short for the sake of simplicity. Many people shave the foretop and bridle path with a #10 blade, and then trim the rest of the mane to half an inch. You may trim the outside edges and backs of the ears, but leave the inside hair to prevent irritation from flies and bugs.
The tail is another area where there are many variations. I recommend applying Johnson’s Baby oil to the base during each grooming and letting the tail hair grow. This is a good idea if you compete in open events with horses. A second method is to shave the first two inches of the tail for a clean, well-groomed look (however, it does grow back even fuzzier!). A third variation is to “bell” the tail in three tiers. This looks best with a thick tail and is generally used for identification purposes by packers and the military, but is not recommended for normal grooming, as it is difficult to maintain.
Now you’re ready to trim the head. This will include trimming the bridle path, muzzle hairs, hair under the jaw, long hairs around the eyebrows and the backs and edges of the ears.
Lastly, remove chestnuts and ergots by soaking them with baby oil for about 30 minutes and peeling them off. If the ergots don’t peel off, you may cut them off with scissors or nippers.
Now you’ve got an equine that looks great! It will be easy to keep him looking good with a weekly trim that should include bridle path, ears, around the face and coronet bands.
BRAIDING FOR SHOW
Depending on the event you plan to show in, treatment of the mane varies considerably. For Western pleasure, you may want to simply band the mane so it lies flat. The tiny rubber bands can be purchased in tack shops in colors to match your mule’s hair. Tradition dictates the braiding of the mane for hunters and English classes for a neat, clean appearance. A thick, heavy mane cannot be properly braided and must be thinned until all the hairs are about four to six inches long and lay flat on the neck. This is done by using a mane comb to pull out the long hairs from the underside of the mane. This can be a big job and it’s annoying to your equine, so limit mane pulling to a few minutes a day. Make sure the hair is the same length from poll to withers. Don’t even think about cutting it with scissors—it will just end up short but way too thick to braid.
You can spritz a little water and hair spray to make the hair easier to handle. The quickest way to secure the braids is by using tiny rubber bands. It’s also very easy to do and it’s great for one-day shows or quick changes between classes.
Sewing with thread or weaving yarn looks very professional and is more permanent, but it’s also more time consuming.
Once the braid is finished it should be folded once and fastened with either rubber bands or a piece of yarn or thread. It can also be rolled and tacked into place. How you finish your braid will depend upon the time you have and the look you want to achieve, as well as what looks good on your equine!
Braiding the tail begins with a clean, well-groomed tail. Even short hair can be braided if you use a lot of hair spray to make it sticky. Moisten all the hairs along the dock with a damp sponge and bring them forward. Take a section of hair from each side of the tail, as close to the top as possible, pulling the sections out from as far under as you can.
On a horse, you can pick up a third section from the middle of the tail, but on a mule’s thin tail, take the hair from the side. Cross it over one of the outer strands. Begin braiding with three strands down the center of the tail. With each twist of the braid, pick up a little more hair from either side or from the middle. Continue braiding until you reach the root of the tail, then don’t add any more hair, but braid until you reach the end.
Fasten the end of the braid with a tiny rubber band or a piece of yarn. Now fold the braid once and pull the end up into the braided root, tying it at the base with yarn or thread.
In showmanship and halter classes, it goes without saying that your equine must be groomed to perfection. This means that, for months prior to the show, you’ve given your equine a good brushing or vacuuming at least once a week. Brushing stimulates the skin and brings out the natural oils that make the coat shine. No amount of “shine in a can” will replace the natural luster of an equine that’s been brushed regularly.
To learn more about Meredith Hodges and her comprehensive all-breed equine training program, visit LuckyThreeRanch.com or call 1-800-816-7566. Check out her children’s website at JasperTheMule.com. Also, find Meredith on Facebook, YouTube and Twitter.
In order to perform the shoulder-in properly, it is important to understand its purpose. The shoulder-in causes the equine to engage his hindquarters so that they carry the bulk of his weight, giving him more freedom and suppleness in his shoulders and front quarters. A strong base must be established to carry this weight forward while the shoulders remain light and free to proceed forward while tracking laterally.
The shoulder-in is done on a straight line. Normally, an animal traveling in a straight line makes two tracks in the dirt behind him, because the front legs are positioned directly in front of the back legs. In the shoulder-in, the shoulders are positioned so that they cause a three-track pattern behind—the inside front foot makes one track, the outside front foot and the inside hind foot make one track, and the outside hind foot makes one track.
Begin by walking your equine around the perimeter of the arena. When you reach the corner before the long side, make a ten-meter (30-foot) circle. As you close your circle at the start of the long side of the arena, maintain the bend that you had for the circle, using steady pressure on your inside rein. At the same time, nudge your equine with alternate leg pressure in synchronization with his hind legs as they each go forward. Squeeze your outside rein at the same time that you squeeze with your outside leg, and then release the outside rein. Ride the hindquarters straight forward from your seat and legs, as you offset the shoulders with your hands. Be careful that your inside rein is not so tight that your animal bends only his neck to the inside. As you squeeze with the outside aids, feel your equine rock his balance back to the hindquarters, giving you the sensation of pedaling backward on a bicycle. Simultaneously, you should feel the front quarters begin to lighten and become supple.
Take your time and don’t try too hard. Be content at first with two or three steps of shoulder-in and then straighten him down the long side of the arena. After a few accurate steps of shoulder-in, as he straightens his body, you will feel him surge forward with more energy. Collect and slow your equine’s gait through the short side of the arena and then repeat the exercise on the next long side. As your equine begins to understand the concept of rocking his balance to the hindquarters, the surge of energy that you feel when he straightens will become more and more powerful.
Much body strength and coordination is involved in this exercise and at first, you may feel like you are all thumbs. Time, patience and practice will bring about positive results, so stay with it. Over time, do this exercise at the walk, the trot and the canter, and do it the same way in both directions in the arena. Don’t forget to praise your animal for each correct step that he gives you.
The next exercise to enhance hindquarter engagement and lengthen the stride is quite simple, yet still a little tricky because lengthening your mule’s stride means covering more distance yet maintaining the same rhythm and cadence. It does not mean speed up, although that is what most equines will try to do. Track the perimeter of the arena again. This time, collect the trot on the short sides, and then urge your equine to lengthen his trot down the long sides. To add variation, ask him to lengthen across the diagonals (from corner to corner) as well. Your equine’s first impulse will probably be to shift his weight to the forehand and just speed up. For this reason, do not push him too hard too soon. At first, just ask for a little more energy—be aware that your rhythm and cadence will not be lost as his stride increases. He will just be spending more time in suspension. Keep the forehand light and free while you ride the hindquarters. Let your hand open slightly with the foreleg going forward on the same side, and close as the leg comes back. This will help you to determine how far you can let that stride go before the balance begins to shift forward. It will also allow you to check the balance with your hands before it begins to shift. If he has too much difficulty, you should go back and practice lengthening over ground rails again to gain more strength and coordination.
As your equine gains strength in the hindquarters and is better able to carry your weight, his lengthened gaits will continue to improve until, perhaps a year or so later, he will be able to fully extend his stride at the walk, trot and canter. I caution you, however, that if your animal begins to rush, ask for less.
Another exercise that is helpful in lengthening the trot is to canter your equine around the arena, then cross half of your diagonal at the canter. Break to the posting trot and finish the diagonal. After the diagonal, sit the trot through the short side of the arena, pick up the canter on the long side again, and then cross the next available diagonal again and repeat the pattern. The drive that an equine gets from his hindquarters in the canter will carry through into the trot for the few strides on the diagonal and will create the true lengthening. This also holds true when teaching the lengthened walk (add trot work and back to walk) and the lengthened canter (add galloping and back to canter). This is your opportunity to tell your equine, “Yes, yes, this is what I want when I urge you on!”
Learning to ride from back to front (from the hindquarters forward) will greatly improve the harmony between you and your equine. Loss of balance seems to be the single most common cause of disobedience and problems with riding and driving animals. Carrying your weight and his in a properly balanced posture minimizes the chance for a loss of balance, and recovery from such a loss is much easier. Your equine will soon discover that your aids are indeed for his benefit as well as for your own, and he will become more accepting of them over time. As he becomes more balanced, you will find a world of different activities that you and your equine can do!
To learn more about Meredith Hodges and her comprehensive all-breed equine training program, visit LuckyThreeRanch.com or call 1-800-816-7566. Check out her children’s website at JasperTheMule.com. Also, find Meredith on Facebook, YouTube and Twitter.