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MULE CROSSING: Why Mules Are Exceptional

By Meredith Hodges Across the United States and around the world, as mules are given more and more opportunities to perform in many diverse situations, they are exhibiting their exceptional beauty, athletic ability, endurance and intelligence. There are definite physical and psychological reasons for these outstanding abilities. It has been proven that the mule not only inherits the mare’s beauty, but is also more athletic than the mare out of which he came. The mule is an exceptional hybrid not only because he inherits these qualities from his dam, the mare, but he also inherits the best qualities from his sire, the jack who is responsible for his muscle structure, thickness of bone, strength and intelligence. The muscle structure of a mule is noticeably different than that of a horse. His body is covered with masses of long, smooth muscle whereas the horse has more differentiated bulk muscle masses.   The most apparent example of this difference is seen in the chest of the mule. The horse’s chest has two distinct muscle groups, which creates a very distinctive line of separation in the middle of his chest. However, the mule’s chest is composed of one wide muscle mass that resembles ...

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MULE CROSSING: Donkeys As Livestock Guardians

By Meredith Hodges

There has been a lot of discussion since the early nineties around using donkeys for small livestock protection and predator control. Donkeys can certainly be a formidable opponent for cats and dogs and other smaller animals. One needs to be careful about who the donkey is pastured with since it is in their nature to pursue and sometimes kill animals that are smaller and weaker than them. This is true in all donkeys, although some individual females tend to be more maternal and are not apt to go after smaller livestock. The males will always be more aggressive than the females and do not make good guardians for smaller livestock.

The other thing to consider is whether or not they have been raised with the livestock they are expected to guard. When raised with the other livestock, they will feel more a part of that “family” and are less likely to do them harm. A donkey that is going to be expected to guard livestock, but was not raised with them, should be carefully introduced to them “over the fence” for several weeks. Then if all seems to go well, you can introduce them in the same pen and watch for any signs of aggression. If there are signs of aggression after a few weeks of being separated, then they probably will never really get along. You must remember that a donkey is NOT a predator, nor a prey animal that will necessarily get along with other livestock. Donkeys prefer to be in a herd with other donkeys. They do not like being alone either. Donkeys have a strong sense of “family” and prefer to be with their own kind. When forced to be with other species, they will blend, but grudgingly.

There are three basic sizes of donkeys: Miniatures, Standard Donkeys and Mammoths. Our American donkeys are further identified by their height when being described rather than specific breeds. This is because they are so interbred from being turned loose during the time of the Spanish explorers. There are no real purebred donkeys in America other than the descendants of the original Andalusian donkeys that were bred from George Washington’s stock at Mt. Vernon. One must go to Europe to see the original BREEDS of donkeys. American donkeys are identified as: Miniature Donkeys (36” & under), Small Standard Donkeys (36.01” to 42”), Standard Donkeys (42.01” to 48”), Large Standard Donkeys (48.01” to 56”) and Mammoth Donkeys (Males 56” & over; Females 54” & over).

Miniature donkeys are not suitable guardians for livestock at all. They are too small and can fall victim to predators themselves. They simply cannot defend themselves. Standard donkey jennets are the most sought after for predator control, however, keep in mind that they are PREY animals and can fall victim to predators that are fairly large, or predators that run in packs. Mammoth donkeys are simply too slow to react. They lack the quickness and athleticism that it takes to combat a predator. Donkeys will never be able to guard against such predators as bears and mountain lions.

Good ranch dogs that are bred for guarding sheep and other livestock are a much better choice for guardianship. They are quick, clever and always on the alert. Their barking can alert the farmer as well. They can even move the livestock to a safer location on their own and will often chase off a predator pretty easily with their confusing way of attacking.

As with all livestock, donkeys need to be provided with adequate shelter from the elements, whether heat or cold, must be provided trace mineral salt blocks and clean, fresh water. Their time on pasture will need to be monitored for optimum health which will often clash with the grazing needs of sheep, goats and other smaller livestock. Donkeys are desert animals and really easy keepers. It is not uncommon when they colic or founder on too much, or too rich, grass. They cannot be on pasture 24/7.

Donkeys will need regular trims and must therefore, be reasonably trained. They will require vaccinations twice a year and regular worming. If they are not trained to accept these things, most veterinarians and farriers will be averse to handling them until they are. It takes time and patience to gain the trust of your donkey before you can actually consider him trained.

I have found it better to be smart about livestock control and not make it so easy for the predators. As I said, guard dogs bred for herd management are a much better choice.

“Some of the most important roles of sheep and cattle herding dogs, and herding dogs in general are:

  • Protecting the herd from predators
  • Keep the animals grouped together
  • Help with moving the herd
  • Keeping the herd within a perimeter

Best sheep herding dog breeds are:

  • Border Collies

While they might not be the best apartment dogs, border collies are one of the best sheep herding dogs.

The border collie is a medium-sized herding dog breed originated in the Anglo-Scottish border of Northumberland, bred for herding livestock, particularly sheep.

Border collies normally reach a weigh between 30 and 55 pounds once they are fully grown. Their high energy level, along with their intellect, devotion, and loyalty to their owners, propels border collies to the top of the best herding dogs.

  • German Shepherds

 This breed was originally produced for herding sheep, but because of their intelligence, docility, strength, and trainability, they were later introduced to many other jobs. At present, German shepherds are utilized as police dogs, in search and rescue activities, as service dogs in assisting people with disabilities, and more.Because German shepherds have been used since their origins as sheep herding dogs, we can say that they have this activity in their DNA, therefore, making them excellent for grazing sheep and cattle.

  • Australian Shepherds

Australian Shepherds (also known as Aussie), despite its controversial name, are a dog breed with origins in the United States and not Australia as many people believe.

The reason this dog breed originally appeared is to help farmers and ranchers herding their livestock. They did their job extremely well ever since.

  • Belgian Sheepdogs

Belgian sheepdog is a medium-sized herding dog with origins in Belgium. This breed is also known as Belgian shepherd or Chien de Berger Belge.

The members of this breed can be further classified into four separate varieties based on coat type and color:

  • Groenendael
  • Laekenois
  • Malinois
  • Tervuren

Like any shepherd breeds, the Belgian sheepdog was and is still used in herding sheep, cows, and other livestock. That’s because they are highly intelligent, agile, high energy level, and other qualities that a good herding dog should have.

  • Shetland Sheepdogs

The quality that most highlights the Shetland sheepdogs is their tremendous loyalty and a very strong bond with the family. Hence, making this breed a very good choice for an affectionate family dog.

  • Old English Sheepdogs

Old English sheepdog (also commonly known as shepherd’s dog or bob-tailed sheep dog) is one of England’s oldest sheep herding dogs.

They are massive, muscular dogs with a strong bone structure. Their bodies are covered by dense fur that helps them to quickly adapt to the cold mountain areas.

  • Welsh Sheepdogs

Welsh sheepdog is a herding dog breed from Wales, United Kingdom.

This breed can have either a short or long coat, which enables them to also withstand cold climates. Besides, they have longer and stronger legs than border collies, which enables them to easily accommodate almost any terrain.

  • Miniature American Shepherds

Miniature American shepherds were traditionally used for herding smaller stock such as goats and sheep, but are nowadays very popular house pets and very frequently in canine competitions of agility, intelligence, and skills.

  • Rough Collies

One of the most famous rough collies was Lassie, the canine character loved by everyone in the TV series with the same name.

Rough collie (also known as long-haired collie) is a medium to large size dog breed with a short or beautiful long coat, that has its origins in Scotland, United Kingdom.

Based on the coat type, there are two distinct variations of this breed:

    Rough-coat collies

    Smooth-coat collies

Even though today we can mostly see these pups in dog shows and canine beauty contests, rough collies were incipiently utilized for herding sheep in various regions of the UK.

  • Bearded Collies

Bearded collie (also known as beardie) is a breed of dogs with roots in Scotland. Because of their long, double-coated fur, people often confused them with old English sheepdogs.

They gained the nickname of “bouncing beardies” due to their unique way of facing stubborn ewes, through barking and bouncing on their forelegs.” (1)

One should NEVER use mules as a guardian as they WILL be dangerous to smaller livestock and other smaller or weaker animals, even older mules! However, I have discovered that when my mules are pastured next to the smaller animals, predators give them a wide berth and thus, skirt the pens where the smaller animals are kept.

Since miniature donkeys and mules are always at risk, I add another element of safety for them by lining their pens with metal grating over the stock panels. Then, everyone is also brought in every night and turned out for a limited amount of time during the day. This gives me the opportunity to monitor their diet, check for injuries twice a day and keep them safe overnight. All my equines are taught to come in from turnout upon request. They know there is always a crimped oats reward awaiting them.

Wooden barns and wire fences can be easily torn down by larger predators. So over the years, I slowly replaced all of my wood barns and wire fences with metal barns, steel panels and vinyl fencing with hot wires on the top. I also run hotwires on the bottom of the vinyl fencing in areas where animals are likely to come through by climbing underneath. The way my barns and pens are laid out, the mule and large donkey pens surround the miniatures’ housing accommodations. It is not uncommon to see large “cats,” bears, coyotes and other predators in the foothills of Colorado where I live. It is even getting worse as more developments are built in the mountains and drive these predators off the mountains in the wintertime.

In summary, I do not recommend using donkeys as guardian animals. We need to remember that they are PREY animals themselves and can be grossly injured in any altercations with a predator. I think there are better choices for livestock guard animals and setting up the environment in which your livestock (donkeys included) is kept. These two considerations will promote the health and welfare of your livestock, and cost you a whole lot less in the long run!

  1. Taken from “10 Best Sheep Herding Dog Breeds” October 31, 2020 at PetBlog.org/sheep herding dogs

To learn more about Meredith Hodges and her comprehensive all-breed equine training program, visit LuckyThreeRanch.com, MEREDITH HODGES PUBLIC FIGURE Facebook page, or call 1-800-816-7566. Check out her children’s website at JasperTheMule.com. Also, find Meredith on Pinterest, Instagram, MeWe, YouTube and Twitter.

© 2022, 2024 Lucky Three Ranch, Inc. All Rights Reserved.     

MULE CROSSING: Owning an Equine Is Serious Business, Part 3

By Meredith Hodges

As discussed in Parts 1 and 2 of this article, there are many more things to think about before purchasing an equine than you could have ever imagined—from the actual purchase of the equine to the management considerations you need to be aware of on a daily basis. It is so important to always keep in mind that an equine is not an inanimate object like a car that you can tune up, drive (or, in this case, ride) at will, and then put back in the garage until the next time. In fact, the equine was not anatomically designed to be ridden at all. The idea of riding was a completely human decision.

In order to more clearly understand this concept, let’s take a closer look at the equine anatomy. The equine is designed with interlocking vertebra in the spine that have long bony “fingers” called spinus processes,which protrude in varying lengths from the interlocking vertebra. The spinus processes“fingers” support the musculature that surrounds the super spinus ligament, which runs the full length of the back. The highest point of the spinus processes is at the withers, where the spinus processes bones are at their longest. They then taper down toward the croup, becoming shorter as they line up across the back. This is a body design that was intended to carry the weight below the spine and not on top of it. Everything in the equine’s mind and body supports this position and, when we train, if we do not pay attention to re-programming the muscles, tendons and ligaments to support the additional weight above the spine in a way that is painless and clearly understood by the equine, they become uncomfortable and even sore, and bad behaviors are almost certain to arise.

If you keep the equine anatomical structure and his mental reactions to stimulus in mind, the way to build adequate musculature to carry a rider or pull a vehicle is really quite simple. Equines have a natural willingness to please and become resistant only when they are frightened, hurt or confused by the way they are being asked to do something. Training does not only take place during lessons in your arena or round pen—lessons begin the moment you are within earshot of your animal, so when you go to get your equinefrom his pen or stall, approach with the attitude that you are visiting a friend.  Don’t’ just barge into his living space and try to “catch” him—rather, call out his name and say hello in a cheerful voice. Stand at the gate or door and offer a handful of oats, and when your equine comes to see you, let him know you are happy to see him too. Stroke his neck before you put the halter on your equine, and then give him his oats and let him invite you into his space. It won’t be long before he anticipates your arrival and “talks” back to your “Hello.” If you want to make a friend, you first need to be a friend!

Here are some important techniques to remember each time you approach your equine:

  • Be polite and considerate in your approach and your equine will be more willing to want to go with you. An equine that is “herd bound” and won’t leave his pasture buddies has simply decided that his equine counterparts are nicer to be around than the humans who “use” him, but if your animal feels good when he is with you, he won’t mind leaving his equine companions.
  • When you want to pet your equine, let him see that your hand is moving toward him, but keep movements low, slow and non-threatening.
  • Stroke his neck, going with the grain of the hair, and never against it.
  • Touch his head and other sensitive areas only after you have gained his confidence. Note the way he responds to your touch and alter your touch accordingly. If he flinches, you might be touching him either too lightly and tickling him or you could be touching him too strongly and it hurts. Use the flat of your hand and don’t “poke” at him.

Many people are familiar with imprinting their foals, but what they may not realize is that the purpose of imprinting is not just to get the foal used to human touch and smell. It is, in reality, the first steps in learning
about your equine’s entire body, and then adjusting the way you touch him so that you give him pleasure every time you touch him (except during brief disciplinary actions).

Most of us want to ride and do the more glamorous things that we see people do with equines right away, and we become impatient for the end result and don’t pay adequate attention to the smaller details that lead up to our fantasy.  But it is imperative to always remember that equines are very much like young children and need to learn in a slow, logical and sequential way.

Ask yourself these questions:

  • How are you leading your animal after you catch him? Are you maintaining good posture?
  • How do you groom your animal, and how is the grooming received?
  • Are you being polite and considerate in the way you use the grooming tools?
  • How is the tack being put on?

Every movement sets the stage for how your equine’s body is being conditioned. So when you are leading your equine, make sure that you are holding the lead rope in your LEFT hand, are that you are moving in good posture yourself. Be sure that you are keeping your equine’s head at your shoulder, that you are pointing in the direction of travel with your right hand and that you are matching your equine’s steps while being clear in your intentions during movement transitions.

Remember: Square up your animal every time he stops to cultivate a new habit of good postural balance through repetition. Be cautious when leading your equine through narrow openings like gates and doorways. Make him allow you to pass through first every time. When you need to make a turn, always take one step forward first and then turn the animal on a gradual arc away from you—don’t make any abrupt movements.

Here are some important points to remember when learning to deal with tack and your new equine:

  • When approaching with tack and equipment, allow the equine to smell and inspect it before you put it on him, and then reward him for staying calm.
  • When putting on the bridle, be aware of how you take it over the animal’s ears so as not to hurt him.
  • When saddling, make sure stirrups and girths are put up and not flopping. Be polite and let the girths and stirrups down easily on each side.
  • Then ease the saddle onto your equine’s back, being sure not to tighten the girth all at once. Rather, come back several times and tighten just a little bit more each time until it is snug, but not tight.
  • When needed, cruppers are used on riding equines in order to keep the saddle in the correct position on the equine’s back. Make sure you know how to properly place the saddle over his center of gravity (so the girth lies four inches behind the forearm) and then adjust this piece of equipment.
  • Breeching is an assembly of straps across the rear quarters of the equine and is fine for packing and driving animals, but it can inhibit the hindquarter range of motion on a riding animal. A crupper is preferred for a riding animal to hold the saddle in place for extreme trail riding, etc.
  • If you have a double rigging on your Western saddle, always make sure that the front girth is done first and pulled snug—NOT tight—and that the back girth lays against the body and is just snug enough to keep the back of the saddle from flipping up, but it is not too tight.
  • Check your girth periodically when riding to make sure it stays snug enough so that the saddle does not roll toward you on the equine’s back when you try to mount.
  • Never use bridle reins or drivelines to tie your equine. When tying your equine, always use a halter and lead rope, and tie to a stout post (NOT fence rails) with a safety release knot.
  • Always untie your animal before removing the halter.

Coming up next, the fourth and final installment of Owning an Equine Is Serious Business features a discussion of beginning riding, with many valuable details, tips and safety rules and checklists that you can actually take with you while you are working with your new equine.

To learn more about Meredith Hodges and her comprehensive all-breed equine training program, visit LuckyThreeRanch.com or call 1-800-816-7566. Check out her children’s website at JasperTheMule.com. Also, find Meredith on FacebookYouTube and Twitter.

© 2012, 2016, 2018, 2023, 2024 Lucky Three Ranch, Inc.  All Rights Reserved.

MULE CROSSING: Owning an Equine Is Serious Business, Part 2

By Meredith Hodges

As discussed in Part 1 of this article, there are many realistic and very important steps to choosing, housing and caring for an equine. Let’s begin at the beginning … BEFORE you make a purchase.

TIP: Before you buy your equine, take the time to educate yourself with books and DVDs. Knowledge is your most powerful tool.

Here is a checklist of things to consider BEFORE you buy:

  • Consult with knowledgeable professionals who can help you get started on the right foot.
  • Pick your equine for not only his particular athletic potential, but for his compatibility with your own personality.
  • Carefully choose your vet and farrier ahead of the time of your purchase.
  • When you are ready to buy, bring along a qualified professional to look at any animals in which you may be potentially interested.
  • When choosing your equine, ask the seller to demonstrate to you what the equine does, and then ask if you can ride him, doing the same moves yourself to make sure the animal will perform for more than just the seller.
  • Check the animal for any unsoundness and signs of tranquilizers or other drugs.
  • Ask the owner to load and unload the equine into and out of a trailer.
  • Make sure registration papers and health records are in order and up to date.
  • Get a pre-purchase exam from your veterinarian.

Once your animal is home, make sure that:

  • He has adequate shelter, good nutrition and a routine he can count on.
  • There is a safely fenced, two-acre area per equine for turnout, along with adequate shelter from the elements.
  • He is given feed that is appropriate for normal growth.
  • Feeding is done at the same time each day, both in the morning and in the evening—without fail.
  • You visit the barn twice every day in order to check your equine from head to tail, making sure that he has not injured himself and that he is not getting sick.

Become familiar with the first signs of possible illness:

  • Is your equine eager to see you—alert and attentive, with bright eyes and ears perked in your direction—or is he sullen and lethargic?
  • Does he go after his food immediately and chew with regularity?
  • Does he appear to have been rolling on the ground? (If so, is he still eating well?)
  • Is the manure a healthy color and consistency, and is there the usual amount of manure and urine? (If there is an abrupt change in amount or appearance, call your veterinarian.)
  • Is your equine sweating? (If he is, is it just the weather, or is it an elevation in his temperature?)
  • How is he moving? (Does he have regularity of gait, or is he exhibiting any lameness?)
  • Check the eyes, ears and nostrils for discharge or any other irritations. (If there is any discharge, is it clear and minimal, or is it thick and yellowish or bloody?)
  • Check the hooves for any cracks, stress rings or abnormalities in the foot. (How fast is the foot growing? Is the foot growing faster or slower than usual? Is he maintaining the proper angles in the feet? Prepare for farrier visits accordingly.)
  • Check the water and trace mineral salt block. (Is the water clean and free from debris? Has the salt block been used? If so, how much?)

To keep flies and other insects under control:

  • Feed the right kinds of healthy feed.
  • Keep water sources clean and fresh.
  • Daily—clean all stalls, pens and sheds so that they are free of manure, and add fresh bedding of straw or shavings, as needed.
  • Periodically—clean your barn with a disinfectant.
  • Keep all tack and equipment clean.
  • Each time you leave the tack room, spray for any residual flies, using a household spray made specifically for flying insects.
  • Keep manure collection piles well away from the barns and your house. (I suggest having manure hauled away weekly). Putting manure on pastures will only invite weeds to take over.
  • Regularly groom once a week to remove excess hair, mud, etc. This will help to eliminate places on your animal (including his legs), that may be a target for egg-laying insects.
  • For sores, scabs or bumps, use Neosporin. If these are severe, use Panalog—also called Animax or Dermalone—by prescription from your vet.
  • Do notclip the hair inside the ears.
  • Do notclip the hair on the legs (unless you absolutely must for showing).
  • Use Johnson’s baby oil on the manes and tails.This helps to keep the flies at bay and will also keep other animals from chewing on each other’s manes and tails.
  • Use Farnam brand Tri-Tech 14 fly spray once a week (it lasts the longest). This helps to control bugs and insects that can pester your equine, especially during warm weather. (I have found that herbal remedies do not seem to work as well.)
  • Use fly masks that have holes for the ears for those equines that have sensitive skin and/or are sentive around the facial area. The fly masks that have ears built in often do not comfortably fit donkeys and mules.

Farnam Super Masks will usually fit most equines.You can find them in most tack and vet stores.

NOTE: To further prevent the infestation of parasites, fields and pastures should be harrowed in the spring and the fall, and between hay cuttings.

Finding a good veterinarian and farrier is paramount to the health of your equine. You will need to find out which vaccinations are needed for your area, and schedule the spring vaccinations accordingly. If you are not a skilled, experienced equine person, it is best to have your veterinarian administer these vaccines for you, as sometimes certain animals can have adverse reactions to them. (Many inexperienced owners administer shots and other medications because they want to save money, but this can often result in adverse reactions and, consequentially, higher vet bills.)

Don’t be afraid to ask questions and encourage your veterinarian to help you to learn veterinary maintenance that you can do yourself. Most good veterinarians are happy to do this, as it frees them up to tend to the more serious cases in their practice. I would be suspicious of a vet who is reluctant to discuss the health of your equine with you.

Here’s a “health support team” checklist:

  • Is the vet you are using allowing you to ask questions about your equine?
  • Is he or she asking you questions about your equine, as well?
  • Is there open communication between you and all the members of your equine’s support team?
  • Do the vet, farrier, equine chiropractor, massage therapist and any other professionals involved in the welfare of your equine communicate well with each other?

NOTE: The overall focus should always be the health of the equine patient, including a cooperative effort from his health support team.

Now that you have a good idea of what it takes, on a daily basis, to properly manage your equine and his environment, you’re well on your way to reaching your goal of being a knowledgable, responsible equine owner. In Part 3 of this article, we will cover the responsibilities associated with your equine in preparation for future athletic activities.

To learn more about Meredith Hodges and her comprehensive all-breed equine training program, visit LuckyThreeRanch.com or call 1-800-816-7566. Check out her children’s website at JasperTheMule.com. Also, find Meredith on FacebookYouTube and Twitter.

© 2012, 2016, 2018, 2023, 2024 Lucky Three Ranch, Inc.  All Rights Reserved.